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Old 02-20-2013, 08:35 PM   #1
yoomooman
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Question electric fan help

ok i searched and found everyone putting E-fans on the older(80s) trucks and well since im having fan shroud issues im just gonna put an electric fan on the new radiator.

as for the fan im gonna look for a tuarus or mark 8 fan with shroud, the shroud needs to measure around 27-1/2" x 19" or 20" so ill be grabbing my tape measure and heading to the j/y on a hunt this weekend

as for the controlling I'd rather not use one of those "probe" type controllers(not as accurate as id like) so i need to know (hopefully steve or someone can chime in here) what temp should the fan come on and what temp should it shut off on a 92-95 5.0 bronco? i know the T-stat opens at 195, then from there im gonna look into getting a fan temp switch(with said temps) that i can tap n thread into the lower intake or T-stat housing and wire that up to a nice 40 or 60 amp plastic relay then call it done.....nice n clean and itll work just fine while also being accurate

all i need is the ON and OFF temps for a 92-95 5.0 bronco then ill start searching for temp switches

if anyone can help id appreciate it
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11:47 pm: hand pack it on the shaft. it's something you should be good at
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:47 PM   #2
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Iirc i have mine set to come on 5* above the t-stat, kick into high speed 10* after that and shut off 5* under the t-stat. Im running a 185 on mine. There is some tech around here of a electric switch that threads into the water neck. Im running a probe halfway down my rad and havent had any issues.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:57 PM   #3
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if you buy me a beer and pay for postage.
i will send you a fan-temp controller (older Flex-a-Lite) kit.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:00 PM   #4
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Might also want to do a search for volvo e-fan. They have a very similar and powerful fan that is a bit slimmer, bolts to a shroud so it is easy to work with and has an easy to connect controller and relay.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:01 PM   #5
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The V-8 T-Bird fans are nice n big too. Ford Windstar's have a nice dual 30 amp relay setup that you might want to snag for it while you are at the J/Y.
As far as the temp sensor, Painless Wiring makes a coolant sensor that works rather well, Summit has em
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:33 PM   #6
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so if im running a 195* which i think i am, the fan or fans should turn on around 205* and off at 190*? would that cycle the fan too often? and if the "wet" switch is on the engine wouldnt the fan run all the time since the T-stat closes at 195* and the switch shuts off at 190*?

@mickaila is that controller the probe style or would it work with a "wet" switch?

i seem to overthink things sometimes if i am just say so, as for now im just asking questions
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes
11:47 pm: hand pack it on the shaft. it's something you should be good at
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:16 PM   #7
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i just want to know the temps of which a "wet" or thermostatic swich should be for this application with the stock T-stat(195* i beleive)

i.e. ON at 205* OFF at 190*?

the switch will be installed either behind the T-stat(hot side) or just above or below the stock ECT sensor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes
11:47 pm: hand pack it on the shaft. it's something you should be good at
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:20 PM   #8
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Where will you look for the part?

I dont have a 92, but I used NAPA PN ECHFS151 when I ran one. It was awesome, except for the metric thread pitch and odd size of the switch.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:27 PM   #9
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ok i searched and found everyone putting E-fans on the older(80s) trucks...
Not everyone is swapping to an e-fan, and even if they were, that's not a good reason to jump off a cliff or install an e-fan on yours. What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Adding weight? Adding complexity? Adding engine load? Adding alternator load? Reducing MPG? Then you're on the right track!

The (ANY) fan's purpose is NOT to prevent the engine from going over the t-stat temp. - the engine MUST go above that to enter closed loop & run properly. The HOTTER it runs, the more-efficiently it runs, and the more power it can make. So starting an e-fan before the t-stat opens is sort of a waste, except that the added load will help the engine warm up faster. But you could accomplish the same thing by driving with the e-brake on. Running the fan with no coolant flow is pointless.

The best, most-reliable, most-efficient, and properly-engineered system for these trucks is the stock clutch & shroud. Newer vehicles benefit from e-fans because they have VERY complex EEC programming to run the fan only when it's needed for the best performance. Putting a "dumb" e-fan on an old truck has VERY limited benefits, and only in VERY specific driving conditions.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:31 AM   #10
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I think there migh tbe an upper limit of "The HOTTER it runs, the more-efficiently it runs, and the more power it can make. "

yoomoo, its a probe that goes into the radiator. there are threads around of guys putting it into the radiator hose with a bit of sealant too.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:43 AM   #11
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Steve... When will you figure out that it's the COOL factor of this? I did mine because I got bored. Not EVERYTHING has to be better because of tangible numbers.

I have a rubber chicken hanging from my mirror...that mod didnt add MPG but it DID add bling.

Fo' realz, B.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:57 AM   #12
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ok i searched and found everyone putting E-fans on the older(80s) trucks and well since im having fan shroud issues im just gonna put an electric fan on the new radiator.
IMO that's a crummy reason to put in a e-fan.
If that's really the only reason you're doing this then just find a fan shroud that's close and trim it till it fits.

I had an e-fan in mine for a while to try to get better mileage. When I took it off I didn't notice any significant difference.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #13
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id love to keep the factory clutch and fan since i just replaced the clutch but like i said the fan shroud from my older 3 or 4 core radiator does not fit the new radiator, not even close to fitting it, i could hack away at the shroud but i dont see any way to make it fit its just way to big on all sides, and on the bottom of the radiator where the 2 metal clips are supposed to go to hold the shroud on there isnt even holes to put the clips in like the stock radiator........

this was advertised as an oem replacement but so far its not, i mean it bolted in place great all the hoses and lines fit great but the shroud is a deffinet NO GO

since it does fit and is already installed in the truck and the packaging is already long gone id rather not go threw the hassle of sending it back, now i just need to figure out if FORD had a different shroud for the smaller 1 row radiator or what

id like to put an electric fan in since all the manufacturers have switched to using electric over the mechanical and it seems like the better fix in this situation, i have upgraded the electrical systems to handle the extra load, but id like to use a simpler factory like setup useing the "wet" thermostatic switch with a few fuses and a relay instead of complicating things with some fancy controller, now if the switch i need for this application isnt available then id go with a controller but so far ive sourced a few on ebay, and painless performance although they do cost like $40 for just the dam switch, but if someone smart enough to know of a vehicle that uses such a switch in the correct temp range then i could get it much cheaper at advance or the zone

im not arguing with anyone here im just asking for a little bit of info/help
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes
11:47 pm: hand pack it on the shaft. it's something you should be good at
Quote:
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some bucks is better than no bucks!
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:30 PM   #14
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I think there migh tbe an upper limit of "The HOTTER it runs...
Of course. Nowadays, it's the oil, but the cooling system has been engineered around that temperature, and so has the engine design, and all the materials used on/around it. When we come up with a lubricant that works from -40 to +350F, engine systems will be redesigned around those temps to take advantage of the higher efficiency. But modern oil can handle ~240F, so the closer you run to that, the better-off you are.
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Not EVERYTHING has to be better because of tangible numbers.
I didn't say it did - I asked him why he's doing it. But MOST people are under the misconception that an e-fan is inherently better when the fact is: it's inherently worse.

If he's doing it for the rubber-chicken-factor, that's as good a reason as any. Mine is going back in due to the $$$ factor - it's still cheaper for me to wire it into the new harness than to buy a new clutch. But when these fans die, it'll be cheaper to buy a clutch than to buy fans. When that happens, I'll just abandon the e-fan wiring in-place - it won't affect anything when the fans are removed.
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...the new radiator, not even close to fitting it...
this was advertised as an oem replacement but so far its not, i mean it bolted in place great all the hoses and lines fit great but the shroud is a deffinet NO GO
...id rather not go threw the hassle of sending it back...
Returning it for the right radiator would be the logical thing to have done when you could. Now, the best fix is to find a shroud that fits that radiator (that's probably why the mfr. changed the mounting - because they sell a matching shroud), or just modify your shroud AND that radiator's mounting tabs so they match. It doesn't take 1/2" bolts to mount a shroud - zip ties are OK if they're black (temperature & UV resistant) and wide enough to take the weight. But it doesn't take much to drill new holes in the tabs for the original clips & bolts.
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...all the manufacturers have switched to using electric...
They DIDN'T just slap an e-fan onto an old engine - they fully integrated the fan into the engine management system. It's like plugging an EFI fuel pump into a carb engine's tank and expecting to get the benefits of EFI from it - it doesn't work that way.
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Originally Posted by yoomooman View Post
...id like to use a simpler factory like setup useing the "wet" thermostatic switch with a few fuses and a relay instead of complicating things with some fancy controller...
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Originally Posted by yoomooman View Post
...or the zone

Try a JY - they're cheaper & sell higher-quality parts.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:27 PM   #15
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ok steve so since i seem to have gain some of your trust/likelyness in this what heat range do YOU beleive the switch should be(ON/OFF), to properly keep my WAY1 MAF system happy remember im running a 195* stat, your the most knowledgable guy i know on here, then sigepblue comes second and seattlefsb and sackman are a close 3rd, Ryan(fireguy5.0) comes in there somewhere when he decides to come back to the site

ive already taken the fan/clutch out and preping for the E-fans so im obviously dedicated to the E-fans at this point,
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Quote:
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11:47 pm: hand pack it on the shaft. it's something you should be good at
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:35 PM   #16
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I don't necessarily agree with that ranking, and I certainly don't think it's relevant - you (& I) can learn stuff from the newest newbie, and the oldest old-timer can get easy stuff wrong.

My point was: the turn-on temperature isn't that critical. I use a switch that comes on ~170F. It's not optimal, but it works fine. Somehow, I ended up with a new GM temperature switch in my hoarde, and even though I know almost nothing about it, I'm gonna try using it as my high-speed fan switch when I start modding the new engine bay harness. If I don't like how it works, I'll unplug it - my e-fan has been working only on low for the past several years. Spending lots of time, effort, & money to find the BEST temperature isn't worth it. And based on your reasoning, swapping to an e-fan isn't worth it, either. It would cost you less effort & $$ to put a shroud on. With the weather we're having here now (sleet yesterday; 40F & raining today), you could probably get away with NO shroud for the next few months, so I don't think there's any big rush. You have the time - I recommend you take it, and find the right shroud for the least $$.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:41 PM   #17
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so no help on the electric fan then

geuss ill just run no shroud till she blows then send it to the junkyard with less then 2k on a fresh rebuid cause personaly i hate that mechanical fan

thanks everyone
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92 Eddie Bauer bronco 5.0--Travis

Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes
11:47 pm: hand pack it on the shaft. it's something you should be good at
Quote:
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:05 PM   #18
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OK, Mr. PrimaDonna, that's enough drama. I answered your e-fan question; STOP OBSESSING about a specific temperature.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:25 PM   #19
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Let's hear it for the junkyard dog!
I bought an expensive aftermarket radiator that came 1) warped 2) with a top bracket on the bottom and return shipping conditions I couln't meet.
Money spent . . .lesson learned.
Went to the j/y and bought a radiator for $50.00. It fits. The shroud fits. Idling in gridlock @ 103* and the temp gauge doesn't move.
Don't need or want an eclectic electric mess.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:47 PM   #20
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This is what you want BMW part number 61-31-1-378-073 e32 Temp switch rad. cost me 50 bucks Canadian. It is a dual circuit switch first one is 195 on 180 off second 210 on about 200-205 off. I run a 192 thermostat so the first fan does not run all the time.

Read ALL of this thread: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267400

here is some pics of mine:



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