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Old 02-24-2013, 01:15 PM   #1
Grungalung
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Will this work as a vacuum reservoir replacement?

Call me crazy, but I don't think these are working anymore:


So I've been looking for a replacement. People here have suggested making some, which I may do. I also saw on here someone suggested that later fords have large plastic ones that might work? I don't remember what the result was, but do they work?

I also saw these at advance auto: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...uum+reservoir#

My question is, will these work? It looks like the prongs are the same as the ones I took off. My biggest concern is size. I can't really tell from the pics, but it looks like it's only about half the volume of the old soup cans. Even though that still significantly more than the cans full of holes are providing, I still want to be sure it's good enough.

Comparison of the prongs
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:26 PM   #2
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As long as it has the check valve built into it, it should work.

Have you tried the JY for a plastic one?

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...cuum+reservoir
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:38 PM   #3
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As long as it has the check valve built into it, it should work.

Have you tried the JY for a plastic one?

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...cuum+reservoir
I haven't yet. That was going to be my next destination if these aren't good
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Old 02-24-2013, 02:42 PM   #4
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It is probably dependant upon your idle vacuum. If your engine is making minimal vacuum, you have a vacuum leak or using the HVAC, the Thermactor System will be more dependant upon the larger volume within the OEM Reservoir. Note that the upgraded newer Reservoir has an even larger volume than the older can and not smaller. I do not know anyone that has used that specific small Reservoir.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:53 PM   #5
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if you got that one from autozone or oreilly or whatever and it's alot smaller; it won't work, or at least it didn't for me. I think it was too small. What i did was get a section of 6" pvc, some caps for the pvc and put it all together. then drilled a hole in the top that would fit the fittings on top of the old rusted out one... then glued that on. Works like a champ and won't rust. it's also a good conversation piece when people see it under your hood. I'll get pics if you need.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:17 PM   #6
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if you got that one from autozone or oreilly or whatever and it's alot smaller; it won't work, or at least it didn't for me. I think it was too small. What i did was get a section of 6" pvc, some caps for the pvc and put it all together. then drilled a hole in the top that would fit the fittings on top of the old rusted out one... then glued that on. Works like a champ and won't rust. it's also a good conversation piece when people see it under your hood. I'll get pics if you need.
Actually I would love to see how this looks under the hood if you get time.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:26 PM   #7
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You can't make one half as good as this for 5x what it typically costs in a JY.

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Old 02-24-2013, 11:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkt2488 View Post
if you got that one from autozone or oreilly or whatever and it's alot smaller; it won't work, or at least it didn't for me. I think it was too small. What i did was get a section of 6" pvc, some caps for the pvc and put it all together. then drilled a hole in the top that would fit the fittings on top of the old rusted out one... then glued that on. Works like a champ and won't rust. it's also a good conversation piece when people see it under your hood. I'll get pics if you need.
I would love to see pics of this too. I like the idea of making my own parts. Only question I have is, do the temps in the engine compartment have any affect on the PVC. I made a modified airfilter mount for a cone filter with a PVC flange plate and it warped a bit due to the heat under the hood.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:33 AM   #9
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I agree with you steve83, it would be nice to have a JY right next door that has 20 broncos or similar, but i'm not that lucky. I had the pvc laying around so i didn't break the bank for it, neither.

don't judge the canister based on the filthiness of my engine compartment. Cleaning it up is a project for this spring.

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Old 02-25-2013, 09:56 AM   #10
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I had to build a small vacuum reservoir for a cruise control system on a motorcycle a few years ago. You could just get some large diameter PVC pipe, a couple of caps for the ends and then thread in (1/8 NPT) some brass hose nipples. No need to futz around with the connections on the old canister.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #11
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scott,
I believe that the vacuum canister has a check valve in the connections. Not sure if this would cause a CEL or not, but pretty sure that check valve needs to be in place.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:27 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mkt2488 View Post
I agree with you steve83, it would be nice to have a JY right next door that has 20 broncos or similar, but i'm not that lucky. I had the pvc laying around so i didn't break the bank for it, neither.

don't judge the canister based on the filthiness of my engine compartment. Cleaning it up is a project for this spring.

That actually doesn't look bad. Nice work.

I agree about the JY part. I'll probably end up going there in the next week or so because I need a few parts, but it's a bit of a drive to the nearest one and it isn't very large. So it's not really worth the trip for a $12 piece if I can make one or get one at the store.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:07 AM   #13
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These vacuum canisters on these trucks are huge. I'm not sure why they are so big. I have a 67 cougar that the main vacuum tank started leaking and I switched to one that is a third the size made by Mr Gasket. I looked on Jegs and they run $40. (part 730-3701) With the cougar, it has huge vacuum motors that flip the headlight covers. if its not running with the smaller can, you can only flip the head lights up and then down one time where the old huge tank could do it for several times. I bet the smaller ones would work fine since I can't think of any huge vacuum driven things. I also like the pvc idea. That thing will never rust. It might break after several years when it gets brittle. But, they also make steel pipe in just about every size pvc is available in if you are concerned about that. Also, the check valves are available that just go between the source line and the tank. They sell them at most parts stores under the help line. Or if you want the spend the bank, get an original Cougar style made of metal for $42+
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/F...eck_Valve.html
or you can go to ebay and buy the $15 cheaper metal corvettte/camarro on ebay. I think the plastic one at Oreily's will set you back about $6. I bet you could even use one off of a old break booster and put a separate line out of the can. If you not concerned about hot brittle it is, I don't use it any more, but I have an old gallon pickle jar that I used for a while. I brazed 2 brass barbs to the lid and it worked great. The Cougar has is main vac canister inside the wheel well so I had in under the hood. I took up way too much room so later I upgraded to the mr gasket can. I thought it was super cool at the time, but most of my friends just rolled their eyes. I still think its cool. I still use a smaller jar like that setup on my vacuum pump for bleeding brakes and fuel lines.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:09 PM   #14
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I don't have any JYs within 30 miles of my house either, but that doesn't affect the temperature at which PVC softens in a truck engine compartment, or the HUGE effect 15psi has on soft PVC.

The check valve prevents the reservoir from supplying vacuum to the manifold. IOW, w/o the check valve, it's not really a reservoir - just an echo chamber. It will have no direct effect on the CEL. But without vacuum, the TAB, TAD, & EGR can't work right, and THAT may turn on the CEL.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:36 PM   #15
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steve83, you're an a-hole. You never agree with anyone. However, I've made it a point to always google the information in your rants, as to not start mouthing off when idk what i'm talking about. To date, I haven't been able to catch you blowing smoke. Rest assured though, one day... i'll get you. I'm just kidding. You're a very resourceful mammal. According to google, PVC will start distorting at aroung 170* F. I'm pretty sure that my engine compartment can reach temps above that. So, you've won this round. I'll keep it around til i can find a new one, though.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:48 PM   #16
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steve83, you're an a-hole.
Yeah, so?
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You never agree with anyone.
...except just then.






http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=86532
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So, you've won this round.
That's one way of looking at it... Another way would be that YOU'VE won, because you KNOW about a problem before it bites you in the ass.

If I won, where's my prize?
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
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According to google, PVC will start distorting at aroung 170* F. I'm pretty
sure that my engine compartment can reach temps above that. So, you've
won this round. I'll keep it around til i can find a new one, though. ;)
Yeah but. :)

Was it white PVC painted black or is it black ABS sewer pipe to start with?

I pictured it being white and looking like a pipe bomb and first thought was...
"the border pee-trolls are gonna love that one ;)"

Anyway, this is what I found...
"ABS can be used between −20 and 80 C (-4 and 176 F)"

"The heat stability of PVC is very poor, when the temperature reaches
140 C PVC starts to decompose. Its melting temperature is 160 C."

Alvin, Arizona and Asshole all start with an A
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:55 PM   #18
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scott,
I believe that the vacuum canister has a check valve in the connections. Not sure if this would cause a CEL or not, but pretty sure that check valve needs to be in place.
Then put a check valve in the line right after the canister.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:32 PM   #19
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You have to think just a bit before you put your check valve on there. It just needs to be checked from the engine. On the other side of the valve it needs to be able to flow in either direction for it to work correctly. There are 2 types on that has 2 barbs just goes on the supply line and the other has 3 barbs and 1 hooks to the supply line, the other two are interchangeable between the canister and what ever needs the vacuum.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:50 PM   #20
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Doesnt have to be off a bronco. Any ford from that era will have some kind of vac res you can use. check craigslist for people parting out a Ford anything from the 90's and you will find something that will work.
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