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Old 02-25-2013, 02:58 AM   #1
1996EddieB
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Water Leak Still - Has anyone just drilled drain hole in bottom of B Pllar?

Hello - I just bought a 1996 Eddie Bauer, and have the typical stuff, including water entry into cab.

Symptom: I had the typical water coming in above driver and passenger seat belts and the filling up at bottom of B pillars to flow through the door channel.

After what I think is a great gob applying the sealer Fuser 803EZ Urethane Sealer I still have water coming at the base of B Pillar.

Question: Why not drill drain hole in bottom and just direct the water outside the vehicle before it can fill and go down interior channel... and why not just put the whole and then weld shut that whole opening.....

Anyone ?? The water fight is endless! Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

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Old 02-25-2013, 01:01 PM   #2
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Why drill when there are already 3 holes in each? Have you even looked? Just look under the side behind the door - you'll see the large main hole, and the tips of 2 pushpins holding the plate that covers it. It takes quite a bit of effort to push them up, mainly because of all the factory foam sealer on top, and then a lot more to clean out that foam so the threshhold channels can flow in there, but that's what I did.


I'm planning to add a rubber cowl drain boot there so they can stay open forever, but not allow water to come up inside.

And why not stop the water coming IN instead of worrying about it going OUT? Are there cracks at the back of each rain gutter?



Are all the bolts installed in the camper? Are the doors & t/g aligned to the body? Are their seals in good shape? Has the w/s ever been replaced? Heater core?
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:07 PM   #3
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i cant get all the bolts in my topper not real sure why...... think i flexed it when i was at gore for the round up. i was running my soft top dumb move. i really need to put a cage in it. i drilled a hole at the ends of the crack then jb welded my corners then covered them with bedliner, been holding good. i know its not the correct way but it works for now.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:31 PM   #4
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OK - I found the three holes. Yes they are very well sealed. They have a plastic push in riviet like a door panel would on the smaller holes. I opened one up and left the others closed. This should help me with the control "if" the water shows up.

Why did they close them up? If you do not submerge the bronco to the floor board why would the seal it seems needed in the bronco design.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #5
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Any small amount of dirt would clog those tiny holes up. Meant to take a picture of this last night, I have a pool of water in mine attributed to a fairly sizeable hole and cracks in my passenger side b-pillar. The two plastic push rivets were a pain to remove, but I finally got them out. I'm going to us a drift when I get home to see if I can punch open that bigger hole.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:54 PM   #6
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if you look from the bottom the push pins are right there and the big whole has about a two inch blob of sealant protruding out. I still wonder why they are there and plugged ... they need to be open to stop water from comming in to carpet area - yes?

THANKS!
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:08 PM   #7
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Here is what the bottom looks like - see the push pins and blob... and from inside b pillar with one of the push plugs out. - hey I dont see how to upload photo ... ? hint?
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:31 PM   #8
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On my Bronco, I took out the "glob" of foam sealant and the push pins, then I took some plastic window screening, folded it, made a couple of holes in the screening where the push pins would go, and then installed new push pins back in the holes from the bottom. I put in the screening in to (hopefully) prevent wasp/bees or other insects from taking up residence in the "B: pillar. So far so good.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:29 PM   #9
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neat idea hope it works for ya
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:36 PM   #10
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Here are the photos of the b pillar underneath and with the single push plug removed.

[br] [/br]


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Old 02-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #11
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oops trying again
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:52 PM   #12
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:53 PM   #13
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http://x.co/vn4F

OK this is my last try to share photos on here ...
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Old 02-26-2013, 08:56 PM   #14
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There that seemed to somewhat work. What a PITA to post photos.

That link has the b pillar stuff Im trying to explain. It has the drip rail seal work the Fuser 803EZ Urethane Sealer did (self leveling and fantastic adhesion - can be painted as well.

Question: I have included the sail panel seam - is that a source of leaking down the b pillar also? Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:06 PM   #15
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question: Dont the two little holes look big enough to drain any water that may reappear? Is the big hole needed to be cleared (big blob) also?
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:52 PM   #16
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I cleared the big hole of the foam, and I forgot to mention that I painted the area at the bottom of the "B" pillar with some POR-15 (because I had some, any good rust preventive paint would work fine), I had to paint it with a Q-Tip, no real room for a brush.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996EddieB View Post
There that seemed to somewhat work. What a PITA to post photos.
not hard, just gotta know how. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ead.php?t=6204
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:59 PM   #18
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This is how I prefer to embed pics in posts:
http://www.supermotors.net/forums/th...-and-or-videos

This is my understanding of the B-pillar drain:
Originally, the body was designed & built with a ~7/8" hole there, possibly as a body drain, or for access for a primer spray gun after the sheet metal was welded together, or something else. After painting, a rubber plug was inserted to keep road spray out, just like other rubber plugs found all under the truck.

When the body was altered in the early 90s, the hole was enlarged (for whatever reason) to the point that a rubber plug wasn't reliable (not that the early one was hermetic). So after priming, a thin panel with 2 holes was glued down with expanding foam. Pushpins went thru the holes to keep it in place while the foam cured, and MORE foam was sprayed on top (that's why it's so hard to remove the pins & plate). So just pushing the pins up won't open a drain - they just embed in the foam above, which rises FAR above floor level, anyway. Water would run over the door gasket before it went up over the foam & then down thru the pushpin hole.

Again: opening a drain hole is fighting the flood - fix the DAM leak!
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:50 PM   #19
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So what I have read - it is inevitable the Bronco will leak. Not if but when.

So ...If fixed one is guaranteed leaks will one day return. Nature of design (vehicle with removable top and weak cab design), and without reinforcing entire truck with a crazy roll bar or other structual means. .... Fixing "the damn leak" as so well put as a solution is only a bandaid "until it does it again".

Utilizing the water control mechanism ensuring "when it does return" will be proactive in thought and not allow the flooding happen to the new carpet ... this is SMART and sound logic - Yes?

So ... "FIX LEAK AND CREATE WATER CONTROL" is the way I think is best. Why in the world would you not.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:11 PM   #20
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It's inevitable that a brand new trillion-dollar aircraft carrier or submarine will leak. Of course a 20-year-old Bronco will. No, the design isn't "weak", and adding roll bars & crap will make it MORE-likely to leak. Fixing a leak doesn't mean it will never come back - that's ridiculous. And I didn't say "damn" - that was a continuation of the "flood" remark. It means: work from the beginning forward; not backward from the end of the problem.
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