Carburetor or injection

[Tx_007]

I'm in Texas, it's the end of February and it freaking snowed 15 inches over night... My truck isn't starting and I walked 3 miles to get starting fluid and "Heet"- water remover in a blizzard.
I sprayed the carb filter un caped it and sprayed the carb too put some "Heet" in the gas tank, and after a few turns i poured a little heet in the carb itself.

I should have done it the night before but didn't and the thing still will not start idk if the gas lines are frozen or what but I'm mad and wanna quit using carbs all together what's the use of having a 4x4 if it never starts in the snow..
Most of this is my fault I parked facing the wind and didn't prepare for such a storm, but I'm always having to keep it idled high for 20-30 min every
Time I start the thing so it won't die until it gets warm.
My exp. injected engines always seem to start just fine a long as everything is working properly, not so much with a carb ever.

Q: what would be the best conversion for an 83 bronco with 351w for fuel injection, is there a truck that I can just swap manifolds and all that with etc?

[Tx_007]

I'm talking junkyard pull, I don't really have lots of money and it would be way cheaper to get this stuff from a junk yard if at all possible.

[mickaila]

read an old issue of Bronco Driver Magazine.. maybe lasts 2y. there was a 3 part series on sourcing OEM parts to do this very thing.

BTW, my carb has never failed me due to cold temps and idles perfectly when hot/cold. perhpas a starting point for you, in the interim, might be adjusting the choke and idle settings.

[LarryP]

Originally Posted by Tx_007

My exp. injected engines always seem to start just fine a long as everything is working properly, not so much with a carb ever.

This same thing apply's with a carbed motor. I drive my carbed 78 bronco everyday Live up at 4000+ ft and wake up to 1 to 2 to 3 and 4 ft of snow all the time in winter, it is anywhere from 15* to 30* at 12 am when I leave for work and my Bronco Starts Every time. If I do start to have problems with it, It is cause I'm slacking on some maintenance or the like.


Have you looked at what the problem is??

[7LBRONCO]

The only times I have had problems, is when the temp gets below -20. Then, I stick a hair dryer in the snorkel, with the throttle cracked open, and wait about 10 minutes. After that, all is good.

[Tx_007]

My bronco idles fine once it is warm, it will die if i don't let it warm up, I don't really know how to adjust a carb...
I have and 85 cj-7 with an AMC 360 over 300 hp w/ 750 4bl holy carb and it doesn't stay running on a cold startup either and I always have to turn both over quite a bit, I got the bronco started yesterday with some starting fluid and a friendly Jump from a neighbor, but my battery and charging system is new so that wasn't the problem.

[GetBent4x4]

Well you have to decide what trans you want to swap in. 88-89 bronco 351 c6 would be the easiest swap. Or 88 f-series.

[JKossarides]

I've had my BKO for 9 years now and I really like the fuel injection set up, it's easy and very efficient so consider that, JY parts are less expensive and may be a good way to go if $$$$ is an issue..

Good Luck ~

[Alvin in AZ]

Originally Posted by Tx_007

My bronco idles fine once it is warm, it will die if i don't let it warm up,
I don't really know how to adjust a {carburetor}...

The best way is to use a vacuum gauge.

Spelling out "carburetor" will get you to information that has a little more
quality to it and adding "vacuum gauge" and maybe "idle" and/or "mixture"
will narrow it into adjusting the idle mixture using a vacuum gauge.

Same with finding information on choke adjustments. Over on FTE there's
a guy that's really into choke adjustment and he's a "carburetor guy" too.

I've always run carburetors just a little richer and faster idle during the cool
months. But I don't use (or even believe-in;) chokes and have no trouble
starting my '75 360FE on the coldest day or night or change in elevation...

I have and 85 cj-7 with an AMC 360 over 300 hp w/ 750 4bl {Holley
carburetor} and it doesn't stay running on a cold startup either and I
always have to turn both over quite a bit, I got the bronco started
yesterday with some starting fluid and a friendly Jump from a neighbor,
but my battery and charging system is new so that wasn't the problem.

Would you bet your employment on that new electrical system? LOL :)

Don't ASSume anything when stuff ain't working right, danggit. :/
Check it out and -be-sure-. ;)

It's easy to do with the right tools and knowhow.

Tools are cheaper than looking for a new job or retaking a college course
and if you take care of 'em, they'll last you a lifetime

The knowhow part is right here on the internet.

Information with feedback on the old Newsgroups and now on the website
forums kicks butt!. :)

-----------------------------------------------------

Get yourself an analog multimeter.
An analog voltmeter is all you need...

Trick is to first try it on a vehicle that's working to see it in action. :)

1) Don't mess with any wires etc, get the analog voltmeter out first-thing. :)
That's so you won't "clear-up the trouble on yourself" and then won't know
what needs fixing. BTDT :) Do yourself a big favor and let the voltmeter do
its job before you go monkeying with it. ;)

2) Read the battery voltage by digging the voltmeter's leads into the
battery's terminals (not the clamps;). Should read ~12 volts.

3) Have a helper try to start the vehicle. I've done this by myself, so don't
tell me you can't too. ;) But a helper's cool, you can teach the helper how
to troubleshoot a starting/charging system using only an analog voltmeter
while you're at it. ;)

4) Watch to see how far-below the original 12v reading the needle goes...
-> Drops to ~11 volts and starter sounds good and engine starts fine? --> 5
-> Less that 10 volts and sounds sluggish or won't even turn over? --> 4a
-> Don't move much, stays at ~12 volts and won't turn over? --> 4b

5) After it starts, does the voltage stay at ~12 volts or rise to ~13 volts?
If it just sits there at the original voltage then you've got charging circuit
trouble, could be the alternator or the voltage regulator or both.

4a) Typically you've got a good connection through the whole starter's
circuit and got a low or weak battery. How old is the battery?

4b) Typically you got an "open circuit" (as opposed to a "short circuit")
and the analog meter will find it for you if you-let-it-lead-you to it.

In big steps or little steps, move the leads closer to the "load" (the starter)
until you get virtually-zero-volts (while the helper is trying to start the
engine). Use little steps as you narrow in on exactly where the open-circuit
is. ;)

-----------------------------------------------------

Anyway, what all that means is if you're having that much trouble with
starting your vehicles (in any weather) I'm guessing 1) there's something
wrong with them or 2) you just plain ol' don't know how to start a vehicle.

The first one is easier to fix, so let's start with that one?
Besides, in the process of checking 'em out... maybe you'll figure out the
second? ;) LOL

Alvin in AZ

[Alvin in AZ]

Originally Posted by JKossarides

...JY parts are less expensive and may be a good way to go if $$$$ is an issue..
Good Luck ~

x2 but. ;)

Do yourself a favor and look into parts truck prices if you're making big
changes like transmission and/or engine swaps.

I'm the last guy to find "smokin' deals" but have found parts trucks the
best way to go for me (but me and my buddies have lots of space tho).

When Dent Side grill-shells were going for $600 I bought one for $500
...but the dangged thing was bolted to an almost complete '75 F100-SC
(no engine, a "racer" did the same as me, got a -virgin- "105 FE/FT").

My buddy sold the bed off it for $300, it's the only part sold off it so far.
No advertisement involved, guy drove by saw it and asked about it.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Oh yeah, and it was -delivered- with a smile! LOL :)

[Tx_007]

Lol Alvin, my truck has a volt Guage inside the cab, along with oil pressure and temp Guage I didn't mention it, but I also worked for a parts store for a while in charge of the battery's including charging testing saving loaners and sending junk ones off put my store second in district in less than 2 months. Before I quit.
I also had multiple other duties, but some including starting and charging systems.

I'm not that incompetent, the thread question was over a carb and swapping for Injection.
Once you turn a car over so many times your going to run the battery dead, cause the alternator charges the battery when it is running.. So anyway I don't have a charging system problem I would know.
Thanks tho that was quite detailed.
I have a carb problem, and a lack of know how on carbs

[Tx_007]

I quit cause I had another job that I considered a better way to go mon- fri/8-5 more money and I drive all day and other benifits.

[Alvin in AZ]

Originally Posted by Tx_007

Lol Alvin, my truck has a volt Guage inside the cab

Cool. :)

Does it give you the same three readings I mention in my procedure? :)

I have a carb problem, and a lack of know how on carbs

That's easy, get yourself (and anybody you care about) on Atkins.
The AMA diet'll kill you {slow and miserable}. xD

Alvin in AZ

[TheUnforgiven]

Alvin i laugh how you just run it a little richer/faster in the winter. winter? how cold does it get in "winter" in arizona, 50*?

[InsanePyro]

I love fuel injection. Just seems like you can get on it alot harder and faster


Yes. Thats what she said

[TheUnforgiven]

Originally Posted by InsanePyro

I love fuel injection. Just seems like you can get on it alot harder and faster


Yes. Thats what she said

you can get on it with a well tuned carburetor just fine.

[InsanePyro]

Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven

you can get on it with a well tuned carburetor just fine.

All the carbed vehicles I've ever driven have been finicky little pains until they're all warm and happy.

Granted none of them were actually mine so I cannot speak as to how they were setup or tuned

[TheUnforgiven]

right, so stfu noob

[Alvin in AZ]

Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven

you can get on it with a well tuned carburetor just fine.

x2. :)

Can't remember the guy's name/handle on FTE but he actually goes step
by step how to setup a "2100 type" choke. Not just dry instructions from
Ford but the whys. Also which way to fudge the settings to make it work
better to suit you and your situation. <---that's why he's better than the
book.

If I "believed in chokes" ...I'd study what he's written -in-detail-. ;)

--------------------------

"chokes are for people that don't know how to start a vehicle
in cold weather without a choke" -Alvin

Had Canajians and Yanks from Michigan and Dakota (let alone the rest of
the country) agree with that statement over the years. They came out of
the wood work after I was jumped or being in "Arizona". They were just
"carburetor guys" too, is all, and flat out said it doesn't matter where you
are. :)

Easier for me, yes. xD

How about making a carburetor off a mid fifties Ford pickup work perfect
on a "40 Horse" air cooled VW engine? ;)

No big deal? :)

Hey, Carter couldn't do it! LOL :)

...and as a factory they had an opportunity to modify new parts in ways
we never could. Carter couldn't get it to work on a 1600cc even. LOL :)

"Carter's sure are good, well-made looking carburetors on the
inside for being such pieces of crap! :)" -Alvin in '76 and again in ~'93

Since then I've been told Holley and Carter swapped places.
Holley's are now crap and Carter's are the good ones.
"maybe Holley's people left and went to work for Carter? :/"
-even older guy than Alvin that's still building engines and racing.

Alvin in AZ