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Old 03-21-2006, 08:09 PM   #1
mashori
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Clock Spring Removal and Installation

OK, my clock spring arrived today from rockauto.com and of course I was totally gentle when opening it cause I thought it would jump all over the place and unwind and all that crap . . . didnít happen! Itís secured with this while tab that youíll see in the picture. Again, sorry about the camera quality.

What you will need:
Mines were all metric so I needed a 10mm, 15mm, a puller (I tried, couldnít, ran to store, picked one up for 15.99), Phillips screw driver, pliers and thatís it! My truck is a 1994 with cruise control and an airbag.

So, hereís the kicker, I DID NOT disconnect the battery! I know, I was shitless too but since I read here that you could do it without it I thought I might as well put an end to all the discussions once and for all. Youíll have to read on to see if the airbag popped or not! Actually, not only did I not disconnect the battery, I had the radio on cause I thought if Iím gonna get busted up I might as well go out in a song.

Here is just the steering wheel, nothing special.


There are 4 screws in the back of the steering wheel, they arenít that tight so just start loosening them up one by one using a 10mm (I used deep socket to make the reach easier but you donít have to).


Next, GENTLY pull the airbag module out. I say gently because you donít wanna pull so hard to rip the connection out and mess up the wires. You can see the yellow wire which goes to the airbag from the clock spring. And another goes on the left side which youíll see in another image slightly better.


Here is another angle so you know how it looks.


And here with the red circle is the other connection to the clock spring I was referring to. It sits on a shiny metal tab that you can just slip off before you can disconnect the wire.


Here is the part I ordered from rockauto.com, the new clock spring which is identical to the one in my car. Notice that white three pronged thing sitting on the clock spring? Thatís the piece that keeps the thing from unwinding which youíll be taking off right before installation.


A little closer up of the box in case there is any useful info for anyone.


Here is that metal tab I was referring to. Just slip it off first.


Then you can just disconnect it. It has a little plastic tab that you can lift with your nail to help separate the two harnesses.


This is the one for the airbag, just undo it by pressing down the plastic tab that is sitting right under my finger. Here is when I took off my glasses, moved my body out of the way and prayed to all Gods from all religions!!


AndÖ. Nothing happened! I hold the airbag module victoriously in my hand.


This is what it will look like when that airbag thing is out.


Ignore all the other wires, they look like they would prevent you from pulling the steering wheel out but they come off with the wheel, no sweat! Here is a 15mm for the center bolt.


I tried, I used every muscle in my body and couldnít get it off. I didnít want to break the tilt wheel so I really just gave it a good couple of tugs and pulls and even hit the top and then the bottom like someone else suggested and it wouldnít budge. So I drove over to pep boys (I hate them but kragen was too far in LA traffic) and got this baby for $15.99.


Youíll see two holes where the long silver bolts will go into. I had to leave the center bolt in to make this piece of crap work because the head was so small that it would have messed up my threads. Youíll know exactly what Iím talking about once you do it, donít worry, nothing fancy. Once you have it in there just gently using a 14mm turn it clockwise and youíll totally feel the steering wheel loosen and youíre done. Take it off and put it on ebay!


Here the steering wheel is totally loose. Before you can put it away you have to get those two wires (black and yellow) through that hole they are coming out from and thatís that.


This is how it will look. Those are three gold torx screws you are looking at. Donít know what size, sorry. Definetly small though and very little torque on them.


I didnít know I had to undo the steering column too but I think you might want to do that ahead of time. There are 3 screws on the bottom which are Phillips. Pretty simple right? Well, this is what youíll get if you donít listen to Steve83 . . . for some reason the bottom piece wouldnít come off and then I remember reading that Steve said that there is little fVcker Philips screw hiding in the back. You canít see it here.


Voila! You see it? Itís holding the two black panels together. Iím catching it at a tight angle. And of course that is why the lower dash needs to come off. Donít worry, real easy!


There is one on the right I think maybe 7mm? I donít remember.


And one on the left, below the fuse panel and above the brake release. Once you take those bolts out just gently yank on the panel. There are 4 places where it clicks into. I found it easier to take out the fuse panel face and then reach in there and undo them because I canít stand breaking plastic interior panels; itís like breaking teeth.


See how easy you can get to that little %#@# now?


Next, using the pliers grip the metal part of the tilt wheel lever and turn it counter clockwise. I kinda took off some paint which bugs me cause Iím anal like that but oh well, maybe a cloth next time would be smarter.


Here you see the lower steering column panel off. And these two harnesses I circles are the ones that the clock spring connects to. You need to undo them. They each have that little plastic tab that allows them to be held in place to the metal frame, I pulled those off first before disconnected the harnesses.


Here you see both unplugged. Now start snaking the wires out of their little hiding spots so they can come out.


Here is a little plastic thing that just snaps open with your finger. Undo it and take the wires out of here.


Now, the key harness needs to come out too, I know, what a bitch and I didnít know that either but easier than I thought. Just put the keys in and brace yourself for a few minutes of that annoying sound that you get when keys are in and door is open. Anyway, just push a little pin or something into this hole you see to allow for the key cylinder to be release and then pull out and turn clock wise with the key at the same time and itíll come out. Let me know if this doesnít make sense and Iíll describe better.


Here you see the whole cylinder comes out pretty easily. Not that itíll happen but remember the orientation so you donít waste time later figuring out which way it goes.


Awesome, hardest part is done. Your wires should be dangling like your bulldogís balls and you are now ready to remove the clock spring.


Notice that there is this little brown plastic thing left behind from removing the key cylinder. This just slips out easy.


Using the torx driver undo the gold screws.


Here is the old clock spring after removing it.


Now put the new one in just the way the old one was on and line up the holes for the torx screws. After you tighten those screws you can take off that three prong plastic piece. Just gently squeeze the bases (no need to unscrew it at the screws) and itíll come right off.


Donít forget to put that plastic piece back in the key cylinder housing.


Nothing fancy left, do everything in reverse. Put the key back in and turn it until it clicks into place. Then run the wires down under the steering column nice and neat. And connect the two harnesses under the column. Then run the wires through the steering column, tighten the center bolt back (torque to 35-40 which is what my steering column said). Then connect the two harnesses to both the airbag unit and the other harness and screw the nuts back in behind the steering wheel and youíre done.


You canít hear it but first time Iíve ever heard the horn since buying this car. Watch out you slow drivers, now I can actually let you know what I think of your driving! j/k
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:26 PM   #2
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oh no sweat, won't take you long . . .
I'd say probably 1-2hours including figuring out how to do it
and driving to the local parts store . . .

start by taking the steering column apart and then the lower
dash and that way you'll be ready to go to work on the steering
wheel.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:45 PM   #3
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cool i figure if i can remove and install a new engine on my own i should be able to accomplish this. how much was the part
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No, I don't have this problem. Money grows on trees here in Michigan, and my Bronco gets 45 mpg. It emits sunshine and a light berry scent, and it never needs service or parts.
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:47 PM   #4
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the part cost $60 or so and $5 shipping . . .
and then the puller was $17 including tax
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Old 03-22-2006, 09:08 PM   #5
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Here's a weird question: Did you have an extra connection left over on your new clockspring? Mine had an odd two-prong copper connector left over under the steering column (not inside the wheel). I didn't connect it to anything, and my horn and cruise work, and my airbag light went out.

Also, you're crazy for not unhooking the battery. In my opinion, at least.
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Old 03-23-2006, 09:37 AM   #6
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The clockspring passes the electrical connections on the steering wheel (horn, airbag, cruise) through to the wiring harness, while still allowing the wheel to turn. There's a bunch of wire wound up in that little black plastic box, and it unwinds and rewinds as you turn the wheel.
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Old 06-15-2006, 01:56 AM   #7
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There are more photos, diagrams, & info here.

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...=31472#content
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Old 12-23-2006, 02:38 PM   #8
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What size Torx is that bit? Grandma has a T-20, but thats it. I'm at her place, and its for her Thunderbird.
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:26 AM   #9
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A+++ post! Thanks for doing this write-up!

Took me about 45 mins (had trouble getting the screws for the plastic column shroud to line up on re-installation). But now my horn and cruise control work, and there is no more clicking coming from the column.

A few notes I made:
-make sure you install the new clockspring right-side-up. It is labeled "TOP", so just pay attention to that when installing.

-I had an unused plug on my new clockspring that goes under the dash. It was not on the old one, and not sure what it is for (guessing some optional feature or something for another model vehicle).

-If you rent/borrow a steering wheel puller from Advance/AZ, there is a little cap in there that you can use in lieu of leaving the center bolt in the steering wheel.

Think that was all I has issues with...

Thanks again!
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Old 11-23-2008, 03:53 PM   #10
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Did anybody have any play in the steering wheel before/after making this repair? I love this writeup...and I had all the same symptoms so a new clock spring is on the way. But my steering wheel also feels "loose" like I can move it left/right/up/down a few degrees. Is this also related to the infamous clock spring? Again, excellent write up!
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:28 PM   #11
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No. That's a totally separate issue. Spend some time in the Steering Column album linked to my tan CV in my sig, do some searching & reading, and post in one of the old threads about it in one of the tech discussion forums.
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Old 12-17-2008, 11:00 AM   #12
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1995 Clock Spring

The replacement clockspring DORMAN 525-200 does not list build year 1995.
I could'nt find a clockspring for 1995 anywahere, so I ordered the 525-200 anyway.
The OEM clockspring on my 1995 Bronco XL w/o cruise looked different than its replacement. It was attached with2 plastic tabs, not the 3 torx screws described above.
I was able to replace it with the 525-200 by using 3 self tapping screws, where the tors screws should have been.
The rest of the procedure is identical.

Great write-up. It helped alot.

Ivo
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Old 12-26-2010, 05:01 PM   #13
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Awesome help thread! Just did the clock spring in my 94 Bronco following this post / photos and it came out perfect! First time I have heard the horn on my Bronco since I bought it awhile back and now even the cruise control works!

If I could add one thing I might mention that if you are concerned about pulling the ignition out and getting it back in correctly it is not necessary to pull it all the way out. Just about an inch is all you need to be able to get the little brown clip off.

Now if I could just figure out what is going on with the overdrive...

Thanks!!!
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:37 PM   #14
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Great writeup, i am in the process of doing this right now, my question is...

Do i have to reconnect the airbag? I'm not a fan of them.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:06 AM   #15
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What have airbags ever done to you? You don't HAVE to wear a seat belt or take a bath; but both are good ideas. So is connecting the airbag if the truck is equipped with it.
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irobbrecht View Post
The replacement clockspring DORMAN 525-200 does not list build year 1995.
I could'nt find a clockspring for 1995 anywahere, so I ordered the 525-200 anyway.
The OEM clockspring on my 1995 Bronco XL w/o cruise looked different than its replacement. It was attached with2 plastic tabs, not the 3 torx screws described above.
I was able to replace it with the 525-200 by using 3 self tapping screws, where the tors screws should have been.
The rest of the procedure is identical.

Great write-up. It helped alot.

Ivo

I have been looking for a clockspring for my 1995 bronco. I cant find one ANYWHERE! However, 1994 bronco clocksprings are everywhere, and all the listings say they are NOT compatible with a 95. I may have to try what you did. Why arent there any direct replacements for a 95? Anyone know where to find one? I'll try the dealership when they open tomorrow. I'm a bit pessimistic though.

UPDATE/EDIT: The Ford Dealership said they can order one in, but its not kept in stock. The list price is $205, but the guy told me he could sell it to me for $182. Said it should be here the next day. I wish Dorman made a clockspring for the 95! The ones they made for the 94 are FAR less expensive than the OEM. But it looks like OEM from the dealership is the only way to go for my 95.
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Old 12-20-2013, 02:30 AM   #17
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I'm not aware of any difference in '94-96 clock springs. At most, I can imagine that the connector to the dash harness was changed, but that would be an easy swap.


IIRC, this topic comes up on http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-1-lightnings/ occasionally, so do some searching there.
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:48 AM   #18
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Nice write up buddy I just did my turn signal switch and clock spring yesterday haha.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:09 PM   #19
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Here's what my old one looked like when I took it out.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:42 PM   #20
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Impressive! IIRC, there's a thread on NLOC about repairing them, but I've never read it or tried to fix one because I only just swapped to that style of steering column.
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