Ford 300/4.9 Engine Swap - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-09-2013, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Ford 300/4.9 Engine Swap

So I've had my '91 Bronco 5.0 for almost 2 years and love this vehicle! Other than some regular maintenance items, I have driven it everyday to and from work with very few problems. I started with 139,000 miles and it currently is up to 163,000.

The 5.0 has never been strong, but it has started and run every day! About 3 months ago, however, it started losing water. Slowly at first, but more and more each week, until last week, water was pouring out the bottom as fast as I was pouring it in! I initially thought it was the water pump, but a local shop said it was the timing cover...I'm not sure, but either way, it was leaking water as fast as I could put it in!

So, I started collecting parts to swap the 5.0 with an inline six. I've always liked the six, it's simplicity, reliability and torque. And, if it picks up a little extra MPG's, that's a win too!

This weekend, I started the engine swap. BTW, this is the first time I've ever replaced an engine, but I've been reading articles on this forum and others, and believe that I am as prepared as I can be.

I've taken some pictures along the way to document what I did and will point out any particular areas of difficulty if someone else attempts this swap.

Getting Started:

Rented this from Sunbelt Equipment for $29/day. Best news? Rent it on Saturday and keep it until Monday for 1 day's rental!:


All connections between the engine and chassis disconnected, and putting on the lift chain:


This part went really easy...started at about 1pm Saturday and reached this point by about 6pm. Ready to separate the engine from the transmission...about to hit a major roadblock!

HINT: It is CRITICAL to know the number of bolts that attach the engine and transmission! Some are hard to see and if you don't get them all, you will waste a LOT of time and effort!

The Ford 5.0 has 6 bolts that connect the engine and transmission.


There are also 4 nuts that attach the flexplate to the torque converter. You simply remove the inspection plate on the transmission, and remove the nuts one at a time. You or someone, will have to rotate the engine so that you can access all four.

Once all nuts and bolts have been removed, I lifted the engine so that the engine mounts were clear of the frame. I then put a 2x4 under the transmission and lifted it with a hydraulic lift and heard a distinct "pop" as the engine and transmission separated.

I then started to raise the engine and move it forward to clear the hood and radiator support. This is the exciting part!









Out with the old and in with the New!


That's it for now...tomorrow, replace the 5.0 engine perches with the 4.9 perches, put in the new motor mounts and mount the six!
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92BroncoXLT View Post
Awesome start!
Glad to see folks that realize the 300's potential

I dont see a clutch master cylinder, so what automatics going to be behind it? Gears?
Thanks!

I'm leaving the E4OD trans in for now. I purchased the Quickshift trans controller to control it and will be doing a separate write up on it.
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robs79BBbronco View Post
Good job thus far...I'm surprised you didn't have to yank the hood.

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It was close...but lifting slowly and rolling forward a little at a time allowed me to avoid taking it off. It was tight though!
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggs View Post
Is that a vacuum advance on the 300 dizzy? so are you going carbed with the 300 ?

nicely done man ! I want to do this exact swap. keep up the good work
Yes, good pickup...it is a vacuum advance distributor...I have the Offenhauser intake and the efi dual exhaust manifolds. Going to use the Edelbrock 500 4 barrel.

I'm pretty excited about it. I've used Edelbrock's before and have had great experiences with them...set and forget.

I may ultimately go to a throttle body efi setup at some point...or I may not. I'll drive it with the carb for awhile and see how it goes.
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-10-2013, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Perches & Fuel Pressure Regulator

Between work and rain, I didn't get nearly as much done as I wanted, but I did make progress.

First, I removed the old perches (302) and installed the new perches(I6). Took a little longer that I thought it would, but it's done!

RANT...Why would someone design perches that have 4 bolts on 1 perch (easy to remove) and 2 bolts and 4 HD rivets on the other??? Why the rivets? Just to make some engineer laugh is what I'm thinking.

Anyway the old perches are gone and the new perches are in.


Next, I mounted my Fuel Pressure Regulator on the firewall where it will be out of the way, but yet accessible (that's the play anyway). It's an aeromotive 13301, an adjustable, universal, carb/EFI FPR. It come with 2 springs, one for fuel pressure from 3-20 lbs and the other for 20-60 lbs. It is made for a return line and also has a boost reference port just in case you ever want to run some boost! It was a little pricey..about $130, but this thing is a piece of artwork! The reviews on it are very good, so I think it was the perfect choice for now and for future upgrades.

Here's a link for anyone interested: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...ass-regulator/



That's about it for tonight. I mounted the oil pressure sender, but didn't take any pictures. Hope to have the engine mounted in the truck tomorrow night.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quinault View Post
You da man Brad!! Against the grain, I love it!!

I have been contemplating this exact swap myself. My Dad has a good 300 that I could get for a song. The 5.0 just will not die.
Thanks! I'm not really trying to do something way outside the box, but I like how the I6 is designed, where, properly maintained, it should give me 200,000 miles pretty easily from what I have read. I like the low end torque which will work well with the heavy Bronco and it should be very easy to maintain. If I also pick up a few MPG's, well that's good too, but I'm not counting on that.

I'm not an 5.0 hater, or an EFI hater I just want something that is easy and cheap to maintain. In fact, I love the "old" 5.0 and think it's a great engine. I just like it better in a foxbody mustang that revs higher than my Bronco does. I've looked into after market fuel injection and using something link tweecer or similar to modify the stock EEC and may do that down the line.

I've setup and tuned two E-Brocks and both worked flawlessly and I expect the same here.

I got the rebuilt engine for $100 off craigslist and after checking bearing clearances, it appears that whoever did the rebuild knew what they were doing. I was told that this engine came from a Delta facility where they use this engine in the tow motors that pull airplanes around, and also in their fleet pickups.

If my 5.0 hadn't started spraying water out the front, I would probably still be running it, but it's time was up and the work to fix it's problem would have been as much or more than doing this.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggs View Post
So what is the fuel pressure regulator for ? are you not going to use a mechanical fuel pump ?

I take it that you are using the 5.0 electric fuel pump and having the regulator drop the pressure for the carb.
The I6 block is an 89 block(EFI) and the mechanical fuel boss is filled in. I am planning on using the stock fuel pump, but dropping the pressure to 3-4 lbs and sending the rest back through the return.

I'm doing it this way for several reasons...
1. The stock fuel pump will be more than adequate for the carb
2. If I do switch back to EFI at some point, the stock fuel pump will still be fine
3. The FPR is boost referenced, so if I do a turbo, the FPR will match the fuel pressure with the boost.

A little more expense and setup up front, but I am set for the future regardless of how I go.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven View Post
I'm with a few others here, swap it to EFI using junkyard parts. It'll be cheap and easy to do NOW while it's out. That E4OD stand-alone controller is going to be expensive!
The stand alone controller is a done deal, I already purchased it...it was the most expensive piece of the entire project so far...but now I have a programmable transmission controller that I can program my shift points with and it stores 2 setups...a highway and a towing setup for example. I thought long and hard about the controller; or swapping to a c6 or aod or a zf5, but in the end, except for going stock efi, this was the cheapest way to go and I have better control of the transmission now.

If I go efi, I want to be able to control/program it. I know I can do it with the stock efi unit, but that has it's own learning curve and I need to get this up and going as quickly as possible.

So, for now, I have a plan and am working the plan. I am confident that I can make what I have work well and perhaps improve it in the future with efi.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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I6 is in the Bronco!!

I am going to have to work on my estimating skills (or my mechanical skills!). I thought the installation of the I6 would take about 30 minutes tonight, and it took right at 3 hours.

Although the I6 is narrower than the 5.0, it is a little longer which provides it's own challenges getting it in the engine bay.

Tip: When installing the engine to the engine mounts, loosen them up so that they have a little play in them. That makes it easier to move them and line them up with the engine mounts.

Do this the first time and you won't have to loosen them after tightening them down!

Engine ready to go in:


Fills up the Engine bay pretty good:


Engine Mounts:


Interesting tidbit about these engine mounts...the original mounts have a tab on the top and the bottom...1 is about an inch away from the stud, and the other is about a half inch from the stud. This makes them interchangeable. The mounts in the picture have 1 tab that is about an inch from the stud(it is to the right of the stud in the picture)...so it fits perfectly on one side, but not on the other. I double and triple checked and there wasn't another part number for a left and a right...the 2698 says it for both left and right, 4WD. So, to make one of them work, I drilled a hole in the engine perch a little further out so that it would fit. Kinda strange that the mfg. of the mount hasn't caught this, but it was a fairly easy work around.

Tomorrow, I'll connect the engine and transmission back together and start hooking things back up.
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knukcowboy View Post
Good choice I got the same setup on my 79 except my carb is a 600cfm cause that's what was available at the time. The switch sure woke up that 6 banger. Looking forward to watching your progress. Good luck
Thank you! I can 't wait to get it going!
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 01:21 PM
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Got it up and purring yet ?

91 Bronco 5.0 E4OD and 4.10 gears


"The trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's difficult to determine whether or not they are genuine." - Abraham Lincoln
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggs View Post
Got it up and purring yet ?
No, I've been out of town with my daughter who plays travel softball. Going to get back at it tomorrow. New engine is mounted in the bay, next step is to attach the engine and transmission.
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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More Updates

Ok, so the engine and transmission are mated together. All of the underneath stuff if tightened up (Transmission Mount, Engine Mounts, etc.).



The right side accessory bracket is on, but my 302 alternator and smog pump aren't going to work in the I6 bracket. Picked up a used smog pump for $35 and a used alternator for $45.

I also put on the driver side accessory bracket and hooked up the power steering pump. The air conditioner compressor is next.

I also got the water pump pulley that I need and mounted it. The good news? It looks like all of the accessories are going to line up and I'll be able to use a standard serpentine belt.

Mounted the MSD igntion. Mounted it over a metal bracket that was already on the tire splash guard, so it isn't going anywhere.


Mounted the carb on the 1 inch phenolic spacer. According to other posts I read, I needed the spacer to keep the carb linkage clear. Man, the combination of the Offenhauser intake and the Edelbrock carb are a work of art! Really cool looking.




So, need to start connecting the ignition components. One question I have is the distributor has a 3 prong plug, but there are only 2 wires from the ignition module. The third wire is a ground from what I can tell, but do I actually need to ground it? or can I just connect the pos + and Neg - wires?

That's it for now...
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camo View Post
The black wire form the DS 2 distributor is for grounding the ignotion module. They had to put that in there because the mudule was mounted on the plastic fender well. If you have grounded the MSD from another source then you shouldn't need to use the black wire coming from the distributor.
Camo...THANKS! That's exactly the info I was looking for!
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-26-2013, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Progress has been slow

I've been out of town and rain has really slowed me down...but I am getting bits and pieces here and there. I put the intake/exhaust gasket on, then the efi exhaust manifolds. I purchased the walker Y Pipe and fitted it up. The fit of the Y Pipe to the efi exhausts is perfect! And...check out the fitment of the Y Pipe to the mid pipe...only need to trim an inch or so for those to match up. That has exceeded my expectations!


I've also been working on the front accessory brackets and have the nearly finished.

A good full day and I should have this thing ready to start up. More to come...
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggs View Post
So how much of the 302 exhaust did you cut off ? where is that picture looking ? sorry , kinda hard to tell.
I had purchased the Magnflow Y Pipe for the 302 previously. I cut it off about 2-3 inches after where the 2 pipes are joined together.

The picture is taken from the front looking towards the back. The newer piece is the new Y Pipe and the older piece is the catalytic converter that was just after where the 302 Y Pipe came together into 1 pipe.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 06-28-2013, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Hooking Up Fuel Lines to Aeroquip Fuel Pressure Regulator

Stole a few minutes last night and hooked up the return line to the fuel tank to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I used Russell Performance's Ford EFI to -6AN adapters. I thought both were 5/16", but the return is 5/16" and the supply is 3/8". The part numbers for this are 640930 5/16" and 640940 3/8". Here is the link: http://russellperformance.com/mc/ada...fuel-efi.shtml


Next, I made up the hose and hose ends from the regulator to the return line. I'm using Russell Performance's -8AN twist lok hose, rated to 250 lbs and certified by them to work with gasoline. I am expecting that the fuel pump will max at 45-50 lbs of pressure to the regulator.

If you look closely, you can see where I put zip ties right up next to the hose ends. Does anyone know if this is a good or bad idea? It shouldn't be necessary based on fuel pressure, but I am trying to use an abundance of caution with the lines that will be moving gasoline.



Here is a closeup of the connection of the fuel line to the hose I made going up to the regulator. The silver part is the adapter I showed earlier in this post, and the white tab is the "lock" that keeps it in the female part of the OEM fuel line. The line is running up to the FPR.


And here is the completed line going from the OEM fuel return line to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I struggled with the first hose end, I had put oil in the end of the line and oil on the hose barbs, but still had a 1/8" gap between the hose and the hose end. Finally muscled it fully onto the hose end. On the second adapter, I did the same thing, except before putting the hose end into the line, I ran extremely hot water through the line and on the end I was going to work with, and the hose end still had resistance, but it went on much, much smoother. (No cussing!)


The supply line will go to the nipple on the right and the line from the FPR to the carb will go from the nipple on the left.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-01-2013, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Radiator/Trans Cooler/Vaccum Tee/Fan Shroud

Mounted the B&M 29,000 BTU Trans Cooler on the Heavy Duty 2 Row Radiator and pre-fitted the radiator to the frame.


Received the Billet Vacuum Tee from Steiger Performance Products. Really well made...no vacuum leaks here. http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp01011.html



Fixed a crack in the bottom of the Fan Shroud with Fiberglass Resin and Fiberglass Tape. Should be good as new.
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Radiator Mounted

Mounted the radiator/Trans Cooler. The radiator is a HD 2 Row w/built in trans cooler. I only have about 2 inches of clearance between the fan mount and the radiator.


Trans Cooler behind the front grille.


I'm having a hard time getting the alternator mounted. I have 2 with the upper ear at about 2 o'clock, but can't seem to match it up to the holes in the mount. It looks like a 3G with 8.25" spacing would work, but so far, no luck with the 75-80 amp models that are supposed to work with the I6. Back at it tonight.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not installing a 3G alternator, but a stock alternator...something like this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...999%7CL3*15587

What I was saying is that a 3G, large case alternator, with 8.25" spacing between the mounting ears looks like it would work, but I'd like to use the lower amp, stock alternator for now. That's what I'm having trouble mounting.

Does anyone have any pictures of how their stock alternator is mounted on their I6?
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