Catastrophic failure - Page 3 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #41 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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I'm attempting to load the pics I took yesterday and then I'll post. I gotta get my u-joint debacle taken care of on the Bronco today now that I've slept and have the day off, so finishing the other head is not a priority at the moment.


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post #42 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:01 PM
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Yes, a steering wheel puller might work. I had to get crafty changing my harmonic balancer out in Moab, without draining and removing the radiator. I used a menagerie of things from a puller and bolts and such.

If the builder was competent, he will have used red or green loc tite on those studs. You may want to heat them up a bit too.

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post #43 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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If you check out the video I posted it shows me buzzin' those lower head bolts off real quick. I did the same shortly after that to the upper head bolts. I kinda wasn't paying attention to how the engine was sitting on the tire in my truck. A lot of the weight on the back side of the engine/trans is being supported by the header collectors, so once I got the last bolt loosened, but not fully unthreaded, the whole head/header popped off the block. I nearly had a heart attack. Thought I was gonna lose all 10 toes. I got a nice gush of coolant as well, so that'll be a nice teaser for the condition of things.

I did things differently on the other side to prevent that from happening again.


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post #44 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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I removed all the head bolts and put the rockers back on, so I wouldn't lose anything. All the bolts that have been removed got bagged in a Ziploc.




Here are the Hedman elite truck headers. These are made specifically for the 73-79 F150's with 460. The tight clearances on the driver side definitely show that. They look pretty decent considering all the neglect and they're probably close to 15 years old. I think the ceramic coating they had helped to save them. I'm sure they can be blasted and re-coated like I did with the headers I put on the Bronco. I checked the gasket and it looks like there may have been one spot with a leak. Everything else looked good.






Worst spot was down by the collectors.




Looked best on the backside, especially closer up by the flange.

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post #45 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna lose my mind with the way my internet is acting.

One more picture then I'm gonna go cry and suck on my thumb in the corner.

Here's the cylinders in all their glory. I have more, close up pics, but that'll be for whenever my patience comes back.



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post #46 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 05:04 PM
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#3 looks like it took a little bit of a beating....


For press in studs, I have used an impact 3/8 deep socket as a spacer. I run the stud through the hole in the socket out to the square drive end then use washers with a nut and an impact to draw the stud out.

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post #47 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrajoe View Post
#3 looks like it took a little bit of a beating....


For press in studs, I have used an impact 3/8 deep socket as a spacer. I run the stud through the hole in the socket out to the square drive end then use washers with a nut and an impact to draw the stud out.
Oh you should see #8... But I'm not gonna get ahead of myself and spoil things too much.

I was thinking about doing that with a socket after I read what @BigBlue 94 said about using the metal strip with holes. I was prepared, but fortunately the 'ol double nut worked as they did indeed have threads.

I made a stop over at the True Value down the street to get a couple 7/16 - 20 nuts. I had to buy 4 even though I only needed 2, because they have a $2 minumum if I wanna use my debit card and I don't often carry cash. 52 cents a piece. Whatever. Then I get home and only 1 out of the 4 were actually 7/16 - 20. The other three I grabbed out of the same bin were 7/16 - 14. Sweet jeebus, you little ma and pa store. Either way it worked out without having to go back. I just used one of the rocker nuts even though they're really long it worked out.

Let's get some more pictures goin'.


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post #48 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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These go from left to right when you line them up with the pic I already posted of the whole bank. So 4-3-2-1. #3 actually looks like it just has some sort of sludge on it from everything mixing. And, believe it or not, all of the metal pieces you've been seeing all come from the same location. It just all worked it's way around the engine in a matter of seconds when it blew which I find impressive.






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post #49 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the head. The rusty lookin' one is 4, so you can follow the orientation of things, though I'm sure you can tell which one is 3.






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post #50 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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I took the exhaust off on the driver side first, having learned my lesson. I used one of my ratchet straps to pull the engine and make it lean so it'd take some pressure off the header. I actually had to crank it a bit more after taking this picture. Don't worry, no bed rails or stake holes were harmed.



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post #51 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doosenberry View Post
.

I made a stop over at the True Value down the street to get a couple 7/16 - 20 nuts. I had to buy 4 even though I only needed 2, because they have a $2 minumum if I wanna use my debit card and I don't often carry cash. 52 cents a piece. Whatever. Then I get home and only 1 out of the 4 were actually 7/16 - 20. The other three I grabbed out of the same bin were 7/16 - 14. Sweet jeebus, you little ma and pa store. Either way it worked out without having to go back. I just used one of the rocker nuts even though they're really long it worked out.

Let's get some more pictures goin'.
Dont go blaming the ma and pa store! I can 99.9% guarantee that a customer put those "back" in the wrong place. And the store isn't gonna go around checking every single fastener to make sure it's in the right spot. It's just not physically feasible. You wont believe how many people put DIFFERENT COLORED roller covers in the wrong place at our paint store. Or color chips in the wrong place. Or brushes in the wrong place.


Loving the carnage pics btw

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post #52 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
Dont go blaming the ma and pa store! I can 99.9% guarantee that a customer put those "back" in the wrong place. And the store isn't gonna go around checking every single fastener to make sure it's in the right spot. It's just not physically feasible. You wont believe how many people put DIFFERENT COLORED roller covers in the wrong place at our paint store. Or color chips in the wrong place. Or brushes in the wrong place.


Loving the carnage pics btw
My reference to ma and pa was more for the whole experience rather than the bins being mixed. Expensive non-specialty nuts, required minimum purchase to use my card, very small selection of things. I almost had to go to a different store, because before I found the nuts I did the only ones they had in that size were locknuts with the nylon in them. Depending on what I need I'll go check them out just for convenience. It may be worth paying more at their store than to drive 6 miles round trip to go to home depot or lowes where I live. Especially for 2 nuts. I mean 4...
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post #53 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the rocker stud extraction. It worked surprisingly well. Actually, the hardest part was getting the two nuts separated after I got the stud off, removed the head bolt, then put the stud back on.







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post #54 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmmm....



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post #55 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Something doesn't look right. What could it beeeee...



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Oh my....



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post #56 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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It's like a horror movie. That poor rod held onto that piston with his hand with everything it had, but when he pulled that piston back for the last time, there was nothing left but the hand he was holding onto.
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post #57 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:34 PM
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Fight card

Missing push rod yet to be found or disintegrated.

Missing or disintegrated lifter.

Broken / missing cam shaft.

Piston ripped off wrist pin.

Which was the chicken / egg?

Cam, lifter, push rod ...... but why the piston?


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post #58 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggum View Post
Fight card

Missing push rod yet to be found or disintegrated.

Missing or disintegrated lifter.

Broken / missing cam shaft.

Piston ripped off wrist pin.

Which was the chicken / egg?

Cam, lifter, push rod ...... but why the piston?


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Very good question.

I have my speculations. Maybe someone with some serious building knowledge would know. Especially once everything has been opened up and inspected. I almost don't even wanna bother continuing at this point, but I am curious.

I was super bummed out when I saw the condition of the driver side head. I was hoping whatever happened had spared the heads, so I could reuse them. I guess there's nothing super special about them, but they do have larger valves, hardened seats, and the roller rockers on them.


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post #59 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Here are close ups of the driver side head. #8 really got beat to crap and of course we know why. It even smashed the spark plug, which you wouldn't know it from the outside as the spark plug is still there. I guess it's got the "hammer finish" now like my wedding ring does.


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post #60 of 152 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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How about some more pics of ol' #8. What a sight to see! I knew a water jacket was smashed somewhere, because all my coolant was drained and there she be.

I can't tell for sure if the rod is even attached to the crank anymore. I reaching in to try and see if anything would wiggle around and everything is in there nice and solid, but the rod sure is bent/twisted, so everything might just be wedged together. These are factory rods btw.

I'm thinkin' about putting a socket on the crank and trying to rotate it backwards and see if I can loosen up my distributor. No way I'm flippin' this thing over with my distributor in it. I'm still crossing my fingers that its ok. With the way the cam snapped in half who knows if the distributor shaft got bent.






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