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post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
Iolaus
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orange County, CA.
Posts: 21,056
Bronco Info: Black '90 351 Bronco XLT, 6" Pro Comp stage II, 35" BFG ATs, K&N filter, Warn Premium Hubs
iTrader: (2)
The patient is on the table, and been opened up. There no turning back now! .

First up, a pic of the rotor. The rigs been sitting for a substantial amount of time, and the surface shows it. Should this be resurfaced?



Ok, so... on with it. Like I said before, I'm going to detail things so that another novice like myself will know what to do; I'll try not to leave anything out.

The Haynes manual said to remove some of the brake fluid to prevent overflow when I compress the cylinder.


This is as far as I could go because of the filter in the top.



Next, using a c-clamp (which I had to run out for; mine weren't big enough to fit around the assembly) compress the cylinder so that you will be able to pull it off the rotor. It won't move far; all you're doing is loosening it up.



Next, you need to take out these pins.



If you look at them closely, you'll see some bumps on each side that hold it in place; they need to be compressed to clear the edge, while at the same time pushed through. Squeeze them with some pliers, while prying at them like so. Once you've got both pins pushed in, push them through with a punch if you've got one - a big ass screwdriver if you don't.



Now you can lift the whole thing off and suspend it out of the way. Careful with the brake line, and watch the brake pads; they fell right out. I looped the wire over one of the shocks; and yes, I tightened up the hook so that it wouldn't slip.





And this is what you have left.



Now's time to pull the manual Warn hub. Find the right allen wrench and pull the cover. Watch out for the spring that's behind the cap; it'll fall out while you're trying to keep the bolts in the cap.




Next pull the axle shaft snap-ring and the hub lock ring around the inside edge. The lock ring took a little doing, but a small flat-head and an awl got it out (I'm not sure which actually got to it, but they were both in my hand at the time).




The Haynes says next to remove the stop screw next, and has a picture of where it should be, but after a close examination, I decided the Warn didn't have one, and just pulled the hub out. A couple of the Allen bolts helped out here.



Now you're ready to pull the Wheel bearing lock nut...



...with a tool like this.



There should be nothing else holding the rotor in place now. Pull it off, and watch for the outer bearing; it'll be loose and will likely fall out of the rotor if you're not careful.



This is what you should be seeing now; you just pulled everything off of the spindle. That's next.



Next, pull all those nuts surrounding the spindle, and take the spindle off. Apparently, a lot of people have serious problems here, and have to get a special tool to pull the spindle off.

Courtesy of Stangmata...

Quote:
Originally Posted by stangmata View Post
Spindle puller AutoZone p/n 27104
Slide Hammer AutoZone p/n 27033
They ran me $45 for both pieces.
I, however, had no problems. I just used a hand sledge and a piece of plywood, hammered the outside a few times around, and started wiggling it back and forth 'til it came off.



Now pull the shield and set it aside.



Next up is pulling the axle shaft. I think the driver's side axle just pulls out at this point, but there's one more step for the passenger's side. It's mostly loose right now, but you'll need to crawl under the front end, pull the boot clamps...

I'm guessing these are single use items? Can I replace them with hose clamps? It would make replacing the axle on a trail a lot easier.


...and slide the boot over onto the stub coming out of the differential.



Now you're ready to carefully pull the axle shaft out.



Next up, remove the tie-rod. Pull the cotter pin and take off the castle nut. Again, Stang had a problem with this being stuck (rusted), and apparently it can sometimes just spin as well, but I didn't have any problems with the nut.



Getting it to come out though wasn't aparently optimum. Steve83 says to hit the joint on the side and it should flex enough to drop out, but I hit it hard enough to dent metal (which you can see if you look close), and nothing happened; so I did what Stang did - flipped the castle nut over, screwed it back down some, and hit it with the hammer a few times. Dropped right out.



That was pretty much it for today. I'm at the ball joints themselves, but I've found out that my tools don't go up that size, so I'll be heading over to HD to get what I need.

I'm a little worried about getting a socket on that nut; it's awfully close to the spring.


Jeff

"I may be on the side of the angels - but donít think for one second that I am one of them."
When all else fails... mutiny.
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