Code 33 - EGR Valve Fault/ Not Closing - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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Code 33 - EGR Valve Fault/ Not Closing

I was finally able to pull codes on my '88 which has been running like garbage once it gets warmed up and seems to almost die when I give it throttle.
Pulled codes and the only one I got was a 33.
I don't really have the cash to run out and just buy a new one and would like to attempt to clean it first. I did do a search first and found this thread, but it only talks about a way of cleaning it with a drill bit? Is there any other way?


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 04:25 AM
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I'd try testing the EVP sensor on top of the valve, first. The code means it's trying to open the EGR valve, but it's not able to tell that it's opening. That's why you're getting that stumble: the PCM is trying to get it open by applying a greater vacuum signal, and it is probably doing so to an excessive amount because it doesn't have any clue it's really opening.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 06:17 AM
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test both the EVP And EGR sensor, and see which one is bad and go from there. also check and make sure your vaccuum lines going to it are good to go as well.



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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 09:50 AM
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Location pic in an 89 5.0 (part of his valve cover and oil pan gasket job); Miesk5 Note EVP is light gray & attached to the top of the EGR Valve
Source: by Waltman at SuperMotors.net

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SigEpBlue View Post
I'd try testing the EVP sensor on top of the valve, first. The code means it's trying to open the EGR valve, but it's not able to tell that it's opening. That's why you're getting that stumble: the PCM is trying to get it open by applying a greater vacuum signal, and it is probably doing so to an excessive amount because it doesn't have any clue it's really opening.
Are you sure? The fault code says not closing properly.

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Originally Posted by imlikeojnow View Post
test both the EVP And EGR sensor, and see which one is bad and go from there. also check and make sure your vaccuum lines going to it are good to go as well.
How do I do this?

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Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
yo
x3

Location pic in an 89 5.0 (part of his valve cover and oil pan gasket job); Miesk5 Note EVP is light gray & attached to the top of the EGR Valve
Source: by Waltman at SuperMotors.net
Thanks, pictures always help


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I dont' care about gas mileage. I am broke as hell, and I will STILL drive my gas guzzlin, smog pollutin FSB.
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the only way to say goodbye to a bronco is a viking style ceremonial burning. climb inside, lock the doors, turn on stair way to heaven and light a match.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 06:07 PM
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DTC 33 indicates the valve opening is not detected: Two Digit Codes 33-58
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 06:11 PM
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You can test the EVP signal feedback with a volt/ohm meter. You can use a handheld vacuum pump/gauge to measure and apply a vacuum to the EGR valve. Reference this for how the EVP works and the expected output: EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rla2005 View Post
DTC 33 indicates the valve opening is not detected: Two Digit Codes 33-58
I have a Ford Code Reader and under code 33 it states Code 33 (cars only) EGR Vavle not opening correctly, Code 33 (trucks only) EGR Valve Fault / not closing properly.

Incorrect?


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I dont' care about gas mileage. I am broke as hell, and I will STILL drive my gas guzzlin, smog pollutin FSB.
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the only way to say goodbye to a bronco is a viking style ceremonial burning. climb inside, lock the doors, turn on stair way to heaven and light a match.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 12:41 AM
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Mine was throwing that code when the vacuum line to the EGR valve/sensor was broken. Replaced the line and it's all better now.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2010, 10:08 AM
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DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines
then do what our pal RLA Advised if vac lines are ok

for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking (here we go w/da comments..lol) test; one finger over one end and ...ya know?

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 04:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imlikeojnow View Post
test both the EVP And EGR sensor, and see which one is bad and go from there. also check and make sure your vaccuum lines going to it are good to go as well.
How would I test the EGR sensor? Is it located INSIDE the EGR?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rla2005 View Post
You can test the EVP signal feedback with a volt/ohm meter. You can use a handheld vacuum pump/gauge to measure and apply a vacuum to the EGR valve. Reference this for how the EVP works and the expected output: EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
Where would I place the leads? Sorry, very new to testing sensors and whatnot.
Is there a cheaper alternative to a vacuum pump other than using your mouth? The one I found at Autozone is about $55.00 and that seems a bit expensive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines
then do what our pal RLA Advised if vac lines are ok

for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking (here we go w/da comments..lol) test; one finger over one end and ...ya know?
I think I may be over thinking this, but the vacuum line comes off of the EGR and leads down into a cluster of other vacuum lines. Is there a way to separate these easily without tearing the whole thing apart so I can test the lines?
Maybe I'm missing something obvious?


Quote:
Originally Posted by B-man View Post
I dont' care about gas mileage. I am broke as hell, and I will STILL drive my gas guzzlin, smog pollutin FSB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paintballdude902 View Post
the only way to say goodbye to a bronco is a viking style ceremonial burning. climb inside, lock the doors, turn on stair way to heaven and light a match.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WuTang View Post
How would I test the EGR sensor? Is it located INSIDE the EGR?

It is on Top of the EGR Valve as shown in this pic in an 88 5.8; Miesk5 Note EVP is light gray & attached to the top of the EGR Valve
Source: by Travis L (kemicalburns) at SuperMotors.net


Where would I place the leads? Sorry, very new to testing sensors and whatnot.

No problem; we were all at that point at least once in our lives;


EVP Connector pin-Out Diagram
by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..." read more
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

Testing; "...Using the Haynes manual's procedures, you should be able to back-probe the EVP line and ascertain whether the EVP voltage is correct. It should be below 0.67V @ zero vacuum on the EGR, slowly increasing with applied vacuum from a hand pump. DO NOT apply more than 10 in-Hg to the valve..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB

Testing & Operation
Source: by Tomco Inc. tomco-inc.com


Is there a cheaper alternative to a vacuum pump other than using your mouth? The one I found at Autozone is about $55.00 and that seems a bit expensive.

Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; built for less than $20, we call it the "Cheap Little Sucker"
Source: by Jame R and Tim C at http://www.berkut13.com/sucker.htm

Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; convert a tire inflator-type air compressor into a vacuum pump
Source: by drcrash at http://www.instructables.com/id/conv...ressor-into-a/

Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; make a manual vacuum pump for under $20 by converting a bicycle pump
Source: by drcrash at http://www.instructables.com/id/make-a-manual-vacuum-pump-for-under-$20-by-convert/

I think I may be over thinking this, but the vacuum line comes off of the EGR and leads down into a cluster of other vacuum lines. Is there a way to separate these easily without tearing the whole thing apart so I can test the lines?
Maybe I'm missing something obvious?
Isn't that vac line from EGR Green?

depiction by Fireguy
you can do it w/out puling lines apart... need to lok at your VECI label for the vac diagram


I forget your eng type...

Will bbl.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 08:51 AM
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i had code 33 too, the vacume line to the egr had a hole chaffed in it.

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