Rear window lift motor - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Rear window lift motor

Hello everyone. I'm in need of a rear lift motor for a '92 Bronco. From reading a bit, it seems the aftermarket versions are a hassle to fit correctly. If I'm understanding correctly, a passenger side window motor from a '92 F150 will work. If I buy a Motorcraft unit, will all the holes line up correctly with minimal hassle? Or is there a slight difference between the mounting holes? Has anyone used something similar before? The old unit was taken out by the previous owner, so I can't even compare it to pics of a new unit. Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 12:52 AM
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I have used a rear window motor in the passenger door. It was a good fit.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Ah, very good. A rebuilt Motorcraft on eBay is actually fairly cheap. I'll go ahead and order one then. Thanks for the input.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 01:27 AM
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Make sure, before you install the motor, that you've verified the window moves up and down on the regulator. Mine had a rusted regulator, so the motor couldn't move it. And you can lube the regulator and regulator slider tracks while you're in there.


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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I'm glad you mentioned that.

I see warnings because the regulator is spring-loaded and snaps shut when removing the motor. When it does, is the window in the full up position? My window is still open a few inches. It's possible the regulator froze on the previous owner and that killed his motor? Which is why the regulator didn't fully snap the window shut? The truck's parked at work, so I can't run out and check it right now. But how much effort does it take to manually move the window before considering it frozen? Normally, without the motor, would the glass need to be propped up so gravity doesn't make it fall into the tailgate? It's totally just staying there by itself.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 09:52 AM
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Yo Al,
Motor Rebuild wirh Dorman Roller kit and Regulator Removal with pics @
by digitalbill in a 92
This is for your safety. You can very easily break your hand if you do not do this.
The motor is held on by three small screws.
Notice that my regulator is NOT in the full up position at this time. Once I pulled the motor out, the regulator “snapped” up with a LOT of force. I got lucky..." Read and see more!

If either the glass or the motor is installed, the regulator is safe. But if both are removed with the arms down, the lift spring will snap both arms up violently, which could cause injury.

The regulator must be in THIS position (nearly fully down) to remove it from the tailgate, but if the motor has to be removed, power it so the arms go to the full up position first. When the L arm is barely touching the stop, it's safe to remove the motor."
"I used a bolt and a bracket I found around the garage to secure the arms from snapping together.
Nuts for the glass track are under a fixed support, but the bolts for the regulator will be accessible after the glass is removed.
Before removing the regulator, remove the tire carrier's strike brace (if equipped)."
by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) in his Tailgate Internals Swap @ Tailgate Replacement

miesk5 note, make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand because the TG's Support cables need to fully stretched. I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support glass & sliding saw horse under glass.

"... I used a piece of high strength ss wire to hold the "bear trap" in place so I could remove the motor. Once the motor was removed, I could un-wrap the wire on one side to let it release. The spring is manageable, but at full swing it could take out a knuckle or wrist..." by woolf

Regulator, Window, Arm Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual;
miesk5 Note, this same as 92 except for items shown in last section of this reply.
"...Lower tailgate (40700) and remove tailgate panel inside cover. If tailgate cannot be opened because the tailgate back window glass (42006) will not go to full down position, manually depress safety lockout rod located in bottom center of tailgate. Raise the tailgate back window glass using jumper to window regulator electric drive or manually close the tailgate latches. If the tailgate back window glass will not go up, it must be removed as outlined in Window, Tailgate in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. Remove the four bolts attaching the tailgate window regulator to the tailgate. Remove the tailgate window regulator. Follow removal procedures in reverse order. Tighten the four tailgate window regulator-to-tailgate bolts to 6-11 Nm (53-97 lb-in)..."
Source: by Ford

Item Part Number Description
1 41610 Outside Weatherstrip, Tailgate
2 23394 Window Regulator Electric Drive
3 380642-S Screw, Outside Weatherstrip-to-Tailgate
4 42072 Inside Weatherstrip, Tailgate
5 40700 Tailgate
6 57472-S2 Bolt, Back Window Glass Run-to-Tailgate
7 422A20 Back Window Glass Run
8 387392-S Bumper
9 44000 Tailgate Window Regulator
10 422B18 Back Window Glass Bracket
11 57472-S2 Bolt, Tailgate Window Regulator-to-Tailgate (4 Req'd)
12 42006 Back Window Glass, Tailgate
13 43505 Lock Cylinder, Tailgate
14 41616 Upper Corner Seal, Tailgate
15 376389-S Screw, Tailgate Upper Corner Seal-to-Tailgate
16 14559 Clip, Window Regulator Switch Retainer
17 43629 Retainer, Tailgate Lock Cylinder
18 385323-S Rivet, Back Window Glass Bracket-to-Back Window Glass
19 234A44 Door Window Glass Bracket Spacer
20 234A46 Door Window Glass Channel Bracket Retainer
21 234A24 Window Regulator Drive Gear Kit
A Tighten to 6-11 Nm (53-97 Lb-In)

Window, Tailgate Removal:
Open tailgate.
Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws.
Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws.
Remove inside cover watershield.
Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass.
Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator.
If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side).
Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44).
Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side.
Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool.
Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly.

Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly.
Connect heated glass wires, if equipped.
Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides.
Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets.
Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals.
Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation.
Install watershield.
Install inside cover panel support (one screw).
Install ten inside cover access panel screws.
Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function."

Tailgate Lubrication:
"Apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass on the intetior part of the horizontal "glass run" weatherstrip. Dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray slides & tracks with PTFE in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy"
by JKossarides

Ford recommends, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China

Regulator, Hinge,
Use Multi-Purpose Grease to lubricate regulator, door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."

Internal Torsion Bar Bracket Replacement @ by BikerPepe`

96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL):
Note, 96 is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:
92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer.
96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;
4WABS (93-96);
RABS (87-92);
Air Bag (94-96);
3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
R134a in 94-96;
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;
Speed density EFI uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP), a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), an Air Intake Temperature Sender (ACT) that gives the engine certain volumetric efficiencies over it's RPM range. Speed density EFI also uses what is called bank fire injection. 4 injectors are fired at one time on each side of the engine (only 2 wires for firing injectors from EEC-IV).
Mass Air Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), aka Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI) in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s. Mass Air directly reads the mass of air (or number of molecules of air). By doing this, it can detect the changes in the volume of air, in addition to it's pressure & temperature. Mass air has one separate wire for each injector & fires them twice for every power stroke of the engine. This makes the injector timing more accurate & will help emissions along with power.
96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.
Only 95 5.8L California models & all 96 have the Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor instead of EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor.
The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV. But the 96 manual still shows CanP valve probably because it was a late addition to the 96 production line.
The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.
Still researching other differences.


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all that info! I'll print it out and take it with me next time I work on it. I've decided to gut the tailgate and rebuild/refresh all internals. From these instructions, I can already see I'll need to get me a cordless grinder for the window removal. Hopefully it won't be too bad of a job.
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