94 bronco cruise inop - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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94 bronco cruise inop

I'm having search overload here.

On the 94 I just bought the cruise is inop.

PO said it quit around the time that the brake switch recall was done. I don't know about that. I bought a new switch and changed it out because the old recall work was the one with 2 fuses wired in. New one isn't like that.

I've only driven it a couple of times and today I noticed it's flashing the 3 2 code on the srs light. Maybe it's been flashing the whole time and I just didn't notice. So back to the searches and I'm thinking maybe clockspring?

But then I read another post and I think well maybe not clockspring.

The horn has always worked and the tilt is tight with no play in column.

The lock cylinder is showing some wear though. The key turns pretty loose and if you have the door open with the keys out you can wiggle the cylinder and the chime will go off.

So can someone point me in the right direction before I spend $120 for a clockspring that might not fix the cruise? Are the cruise relays under the hood or down by the fusebox?

Thanks

be gentle....
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 07:55 PM
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The cruise control is a very simple system on these trucks.

Basically its completely self contained in the module on the fender. It should be a simple thing to just grab one from a junk yard vehicle and swap it in. That will be a whole lot cheaper than a clock spring. You could also find a junk yard clock spring if your really lucky. Either way you could confirm that you need a clock spring or not.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Have you got a picture of the module I need or where is it located so I'll know what to look for. Not a lot of 90's stuff in the junkyards around here. Is the f150 the same set-up?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Also forgot to mention that the hmsl isn't working. I figured it's maybe unplugged because PO has had the top off before.

That wouldn't stop the cruise would it?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 12:52 AM
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The stop light circuitry is an input to the Speed Control (Cruise Control is a GM term). Verify that the inputs to the Speed Control module on pins 2 & 7 are correct, those are the two inputs regarding the brake switches.
Here's the schematics: (the links are below the images)

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895677


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1107886

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How in the world are you going to fix it if you dont know how it worked in the first place?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 09:44 AM
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Yo ParkerDog,

Fuse 13 Blown, Stop & Hazard Lamps, Stop Sensor for Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS) Speed Control & PCM Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; miesk5 Note; #13 also serves Stop & Hazard Lamps, PCM, & Stop Sense for Anti-Lock Brakes.
wire harness may be pinched/shorted on steering column support behind the dash where the 14401 wire assy may come in contact w/a sharp edge on dash panel wall, I had same short here too & caused E4OD's TCIL (OD switch-LED) to blink like a friggin pia;
wires pinched @ brake/tail lights, my 96's stop/turn/tail lights wires were almost cut in half on passenger side against 1/4 panel (inner);
wires pinched @ high mount brake light
& @ driver's left hand seat belt anchor bolt @ base of B Pillar. See the location diagram

See locations diagram @ https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...id%25253D41117

The speed control system is designed to maintain vehicle speed automatically at any driver-selected speed above approximately 30 mph and below approximately 125 mph. The system is comprised of a speed control servo (9C735) which consists of a speed control actuator cable (9A825) with integrated electronics and other parts including horn relay, driver control switches, a stoplight switch (13480) and a deactivator switch. The speed signal is generated by the programmable speedometer/odometer module (PSOM) on all vehicles but motorhome. On motorhome, the speed signal is generated by the speed sensor located in the parking brake assembly. The speed control servo is mounted in the engine compartment and is connected to the throttle linkage with a speed control actuator cable.


Speed Control System Components: see attached diagram below
Item Part Number Description
1 9C735 Speed Control Servo
2 12A581 Engine Control Sensor Wiring
3 N620421-S2 Nut
4 N605786-S2 Bolt
5 N806515-S2 Screw
6 9C736 Bracket
7 9A825 Speed Control Actuator Cable to Throttle Body
8 N804323-S Clip
9 95875-S Strap
10 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring
A Tighten to 21-32 Nm (16-23 Lb-Ft)
B Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft)

PINPOINT TESTS using Mikey350's Wiring Diagrams:
To avoid connector terminal damage, always use test probe adapters. Failure to comply may result in spread terminals and intermittent speed control operations.

PINPOINT TEST A: SPEED CONTROL INOPERATIVE
A1 VERIFY THERE IS POWER TO SPEED CONTROL SERVO
Disconnect harness connector from the speed control servo.
Use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent to make the specified measurements at the harness connector.
Use Rotunda Terminal Adapter Kit No. 105-R025A to avoid connector terminal damage.
Key to RUN.
Measure voltage between Pin 7 (B , Circuit 298 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes GO to A3
No GO to A2

A2 CHECK MODULE GROUND CIRCUIT
Key off.
Measure the resistance between Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901) and ground point on the chassis.
Is resistance less than 5 ohm?
Yes GND is OK. Power to Module may be open. CHECK fuse 5 in Power Distribution Box and Circuit 298. TEST for normal operation. GO to A3
No REPAIR open in ground Circuit 901. TEST for normal operation.

A3 CHECK FOR STUCK STOPLIGHT SWITCH
With no brakes applied, measure the voltage between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is the battery voltage (12v nominal)?
Yes Stoplight switch is stuck on. REPLACE stoplight switch
No Stoplight switch is not stuck on. GO to A4

A4 CHECK BRAKE/CLUTCH CIRCUIT GROUND
Key off.
Measure the resistance between Pin 4 (BRK, Circuit 306) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 20 ohms?
Yes Brake/Clutch input circuit OK. GO to A5
No Brake light bulbs blown or brake/clutch circuit open. SERVICE circuit including clutch pedal position switch.

A5 CHECK DEACTIVATOR CIRCUIT (AT MODULE CONNECTOR)
Key off, no brakes applied.
Measure the voltage between Pin 9 (DEACT, Circuit 307) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes GO to A9
No No power from deactivator. GO to A6

A6 CHECK DEACTIVATOR SWITCH (AT SWITCH)
Remove body harness connector from deactivator switch.
Measure the resistance between the two pins of the deactivator switch with no brakes applied.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes Deactivator switch OK. GO to A7
No Deactivator switch defective. REPLACE switch. REPEAT Step A5


A7 VERIFY THERE IS POWER AT DEACTIVATOR HARNESS CONNECTOR
Measure voltage between Pin 1 (Circuit 10) of the deactivator switch harness connector and chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes Power at connector OK. GO to A8
No SERVICE for blown fuse or open in deactivator switch circui

A8 CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT BETWEEN DEACTIVATOR SWITCH AND SERVO
Measure resistance from Pin 2 (Circuit 307) of deactivator switch and Pin 9 (DEACT, Circuit 307) of service assembly of speed control servo.
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes CHECK for bent or corroded pins on deactivator switch and harness connector. SERVICE as required. REPEAT Step A5 . If connections are serviceable, GO to A9
No Open in wire harness. SERVICE as required.

A9 CHECK FOR STUCK COMMAND SWITCHES
Key off.
With no steering wheel switches depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ).
Is resistance greater than 3k ohms?
Yes No stuck switches. GO to A10
No One of the command switches is stuck. REPLACE switch.

A10 CHECK ON SWITCH OPERATION
Key off.
With steering wheel ON switch depressed, measure voltage between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes ON switch OK. GO to A12
No ON switch not functioning. GO to A11

A11 CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT IN "ON" SWITCH GROUND
With horn depressed, measure voltage between Pin 6 (Circuit 848 ) and chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage (12v nom.)?
Yes Open circuit between Pin 5 and command switches or inoperative switches. SERVICE as required.
No Open circuit or fuse in horn relay feed or open circuit in switch ground. SERVICE as required. REPEAT Step A10

A12 CHECK SET/ACCEL SWITCH OPERATION
Key off.
With the SET/ACCEL switch depressed, measure the resistance between Pin 5 (COMMAND, Circuit 151) and Pin 6 (COMMAND RTN, Circuit 848 ).
Is resistance approximately 680 (640-720) ohms?
Yes Switch is OK. GO to A13
No Switch not functioning. REPLACE switch

A13 CHECK FOR SHORT IN COMMAND SWITCH RETURN CIRCUIT
Measure resistance between Pin 6 (Circuit 848 ) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is resistance less than 1 ohm?
Yes SERVICE short in Circuit 848
No Return circuit OK. GO to A14

A14 VERIFY SPEED SIGNAL
Operate vehicle by raising the rear wheels. Set speed at 30 mph. Use an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage between Pin 3 (SPEED SIG, Circuit 679) and Pin 10 (GND, Circuit 901).
Is voltage reading 4-5 volts?
Yes Speed signal OK. GO to A15
No SERVICE Programmable Speedometer/Odometer

A15 CHECK FOR BROKEN OR BOUND ACTUATOR CABLE
Remove speed control actuator cable from speed control servo. Check for broken speed control actuator by pulling on speed control actuator and noting any throttle movement.
Is speed control actuator OK?
Yes REPLACE speed control servo.
No SERVICE speed control actuator cable.
Attached Images
File Type: gif v9174c.gif (24.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg cruisediagnosticselectronic.jpg (58.2 KB, 1 views)

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParkerDog View Post
So can someone point me in the right direction before I spend $120 for a clockspring
Whoa, what has happened to the price of clocksprings? I replaced mine a couple of years ago with a Dorman from O'Reilly for $49.99, and today they want $148.99 for the Dorman same part, or $975.99 for a "standard" one.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ParkerDog View Post
Also forgot to mention that the hmsl isn't working. I figured it's maybe unplugged because PO has had the top off before.

That wouldn't stop the cruise would it?
If the 3rd light is disconnected the cruise control won't work. Check that first..
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NYFSB View Post
If the 3rd light is disconnected the cruise control won't work. Check that first..
I will do that. Does the top have to come back off to get to it? Might be a springtime check if the case.

Thanks for the info
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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I was checking the usual fuses and looked under hood and thought might have found the problem but after more search I see that all my missing relays have to do with the trailer tow package.

Wonder what can of worms that will open replacing them.

Would the missing tow package relays stop the cruise? (don't have any laying around to check)
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 07:34 PM
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I will do that. Does the top have to come back off to get to it? Might be a springtime check if the case.

Thanks for the info
No the top doesn't have to come off. The plug is on the left hand side, where the back of the top and quarter panel are.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 04:17 PM
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When I bought my '95 XLT a little over a year ago the only thing that didn't work on the vehicle was the CC. I started where you did and swapped out the brake switch on the MC. No joy. I checked all of the relevant fuses and they were all visually good. I disconnected the harness from the servo under the hood and verified that there was power up to the servo. Removed the top of the servo and confirmed that the cable and gears were free. I finally bought a used servo from a local salvage yard (they're all the same on F150s and Broncos of the same vintages) and, voila, the CC works. The guys at the Ford Truck Salvage Yard said that the servos are the usual reason why the CC stops working.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ragtop69 View Post
When I bought my '95 XLT a little over a year ago the only thing that didn't work on the vehicle was the CC. I started where you did and swapped out the brake switch on the MC. No joy. I checked all of the relevant fuses and they were all visually good. I disconnected the harness from the servo under the hood and verified that there was power up to the servo. Removed the top of the servo and confirmed that the cable and gears were free. I finally bought a used servo from a local salvage yard (they're all the same on F150s and Broncos of the same vintages) and, voila, the CC works. The guys at the Ford Truck Salvage Yard said that the servos are the usual reason why the CC stops working.
I just bought a fender from a guy who was scrapping a couple of 90's trucks and I thought I'd grab the steering wheel because mine is wore out leather and the clock spring.

He had a truck that he said was a 94 but the wheel was different, the cruise was on the turn signal stalk. Are trucks like that or was it a dealer add on item or something?

The servo on the fender looked different too. Round with a diaphragm.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 11:43 PM
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Your description of the servo makes me think it is from an earlier model or a Ranger. IIRC, my '83 XLT had the CC on the steering wheel controlled by button on either end of the arch shaped center section. I've got no idea what the servo looked like, but that was a carbureted vehicle. Stalk controls would tend to make me believe it is some sort of aftermarket setup. Probably best to find a dedicated Ford Truck salvage operation. They tend to know which parts are correct for your truck and, in the case of the servo I bought, Rancho Ford Trucks in Rancho Cordova, CA actually gave me a 30 day warranty. I'd recommend contacting them on the internet. I'm sure they'd be willing to ship you the part and they have been trustworthy with the two transactions with me (a rebuildable driver's seat out of a '96 Eddie Bauer and the CC servo). Good luck with the CC troubleshooting.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Finally

YAYYYYY!!


It only took me a little over 4 months to get my cruise working!

I bought a module from a guy that was parting out a f-150 I found on craigslist.

$10 and a roll of the dice because he didn't know it it worked or not. This was a couple of months ago.... Forward to today and I finally got my lazy butt out there and swapped it out.

Works perfect.
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