Making Mustang Tri-Y headers work (God help me) - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Making Mustang Tri-Y headers work (God help me)

Ok, I know I'm gonna get flamed for doing this but with funds tight I had to make do with what I had laying in the shop. I actually made Tri-Y headers from a 65-70 Mustang work on my truck with some modifications (read: fit without making it a hack job from hell)

First off, the headers: Tri-Y headers for a 65-70 Mustang


Now the surgery. It was much easier than I thought due to liberal soaking of the bolts in Rust Eater and using the "redneck cheater bar".....






When I pulled the right manifold off I realized that it was cracked almost all the way around Ditto for the left hand as well (hard to see the cracks with the rust eater).....






Done the trial fit on it and the Tri-Y headers fit with some issues: the collectors interfere with the trans linkage and the front driveshaft on the left and the transmission on the right.:





Here is the pile of junk so far that will occupy the big round file....


1988 Ford F-150 4x4
5.0, C6, and some junk done to it.....
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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More modifications to the headers:

I robbed the O2 bung from the old y-pipe and the O2 sensor itself. They both looked great for being 20 yrs old.....


RH header in surgery....


Bung welded in.


Now the fun part. Cutting to clear the bellhousing and starter. The tape line I had to cut at (had to light up to keep my nerves in check...)


Surgery complete. Not bad for a few hours of work and it fits perfect....


Now for the left side. I thought it was cake but it wasn't: I found out my shift linkage was directly in the line of my exhaust and I needed to get around it. Found the best solution for $5 at Auto zone: a pair of 1 3/4" ID piping in the exhaust section.



More cut and paste and the left is nearly done.


The finished results........
Right side.


Left side.

1988 Ford F-150 4x4
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008, 05:51 PM
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nice work. looks clean in those last pictures. you plan on duals, or making a y pipe?

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 01:27 AM
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Full frickin' marks for re-using the O2 bung Kpate !!!!!!!!

and for all the innovation !

Did you consider using header flanges ?



I found them uber-useful myself and at $3.09 each from J.C.Whitney, they're priced right.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breakfree View Post
nice work. looks clean in those last pictures. you plan on duals, or making a y pipe?
I'm actually making a Y-pipe to connect them into a 3" single. As soon as I get a chance to upload I'll showthe goods...

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Full frickin' marks for re-using the O2 bung Kpate !!!!!!!!

and for all the innovation !

Did you consider using header flanges ?



I found them uber-useful myself and at $3.09 each from J.C.Whitney, they're priced right.

Sixlitre
Actually found something a little better for a few dollars more. I wouldn't be able t do the flanges due to the lack of space between the trans an the driveshaft

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 02:22 PM
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i don't know if you can answer this, but do the tri-ys actually offer any improvement over regular shorties or long tubes on our trucks? i know they are made for hp applications. I've thrown aroud the idea of putting tri-ys on my 393 for a while now....ill probabbly just reuse my cheap longtubes

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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i don't know if you can answer this, but do the tri-ys actually offer any improvement over regular shorties or long tubes on our trucks? i know they are made for hp applications. I've thrown aroud the idea of putting tri-ys on my 393 for a while now....ill probabbly just reuse my cheap longtubes
Not for sure Mag. From gathering information I heard Tri-Ys are good for torque from idle-4500 rpm Only reason I'm using them is I couldn't plop down the extra $150 for cheapie shorties or LTs and I already had these in my shop. I'll find out when I make up the rest of the system this weekend barring it doesn't rain like a mofo here...

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 04:47 PM
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i like how access to the plugs is wide open. how is access to the starter

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-25-2008, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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i like how access to the plugs is wide open. how is access to the starter
Not that bad. I probably should've made another pie cut on the secondaries to get more clearance (will go to a mini-starter after this one takes a dump). The top bolt is a tad obstructed but still reachable with a regular combination wrench. The only other concern isthe boot to #2 plug is a little close but should be okay...

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-27-2008, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well after cutting, pasting, measuring, and cussing all weekend it is done and complete. I fired it up tonight to check it and it sounds great at the tailpipe ( have a header leak at the engine though ). On with the pics....

The old exhaust.....



The new parts to finish. Two J-bends, one y-connector, two band clamps, and one old school turbo muffler......

Malcom, this is what I used instead of the collector flanges. They seal up very well.....




Fianlly the new y-pipe complete.....



The y-pipe and the exhaust on the truck......






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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 01:11 AM
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Kpate

that is one smart looking and professional looking Y-pipe you built there !!!!!!!!!!!!!

s1120 would be proud of you !

Must sound great ! Score Flanders video camera off him and see if you can get a sound bite for us !

Great work

Sixlitre

p.s./
I'll bet your mileage goes up significantly, mine did.

p.p.s./
So how do you like those fancy clamps ? Are they worth the bucks ?

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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The clamps are definitely worth the extra bucks (Was $8.95 from Summit) and no leaks from them... Didn't get to test much due to the header leak last night ( figured out where it is leaking; might not be sealing well against the head) but will test it as soon as I get that solved. Want to get it out on the open road and see if there is any improvement over the old exhaust.....

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpate View Post
The clamps are definitely worth the extra bucks (Was $8.95 from Summit) and no leaks from them... Didn't get to test much due to the header leak last night ( figured out where it is leaking; might not be sealing well against the head) but will test it as soon as I get that solved. Want to get it out on the open road and see if there is any improvement over the old exhaust.....
Grab a set of these Mr.Gasket Ultra seals;



Stuck em' on 5 or 6 years ago (once) and they've never leaked, ever.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 12:10 PM
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Is there any chance those would clear the plugs with GT40P heads?

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Grab a set of these Mr.Gasket Ultra seals;



Stuck em' on 5 or 6 years ago (once) and they've never leaked, ever.

Sixlitre
Gonna grab a set on the way home. I have a feeling I have some interference between the header and the LH motor mount causing it to tweak the header enough not to seal it correctly. Gonna re-check the weld at the extensions while I have it out......

Quote:
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Is there any chance those would clear the plugs with GT40P heads?
The clear all the plugs EXCEPT the #5 plug (front driver's side). That primary would have to be cut and re-routed to clear the plug and wire.


(Currently doing the anti-rain dance so I can fix this tonight.... )

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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 02:04 PM
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Wow. I give you mad props for being brave enough to route the driver's side tube like that. Seriously, that's fuggin' sweet.

Did you use a MIG or a flux core welding setup?

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-28-2008, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Wow. I give you mad props for being brave enough to route the driver's side tube like that. Seriously, that's fuggin' sweet.

Did you use a MIG or a flux core welding setup?
Thanks Sig. Some say I have more ballz than brains And some even wondered if it was going to work. I actually studied one guy's configuration on another site that is similar to this.
I actually used flux core wire in my welder when I built it up. Had to play with my wire speed some to get it right but it turned out as best as I could get it.


***UPDATE***

Got the LH header leak fixed. Turned out the LH motor mount was tweaking the header to where i did not seal up against the head. Massaged the one primary that was interferin wwith the red wrench, 2" dia. cast iron pipe, and 3 lb sledge and no more issues. Bought some new header gaskets, tightened it all back up and now NO LEAKS. Now time to road test it......

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Last edited by Kpate; 04-30-2008 at 01:36 PM. Reason: update on LH header issue
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 05:04 PM
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You want to make me a set? I thought a true Y headers had the ports split.

I.e 1 3 and 2 4 for the Ys

this was suppose to be for increase velocity in the 5.0HO and the cylinder firing. Either way, yours looks nice.
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