Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber - Page 3 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #41 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 09:04 PM
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Ok, I have read this thread at least twice and am ready to tackle this, ordered my lines from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication and should be delivered this week.
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post #42 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoJohn87 View Post
Seattle FSB,
Where did you order your blue silicone tubing from?
I have will have to replace my vacuum lines as well.
How effective has you modifications has been so far?
Yo John,
Seattle wrote in Booba's Replace Plastic Vacuum Hoses with Rubber @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...es-rubber.html

"Get the Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose Engine Dress Up Kit and then an additional 10' of 4mm vacuum hose in the color of your choice. I used wire loom to protect the hose through the Intake Manifold, to the Diverter Valve and where it rubs on the Intake to the EVP. "
Silicone Boost/Vacuum Hose
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post #43 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:12 PM
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is it necessary to have the EVP line running to the vacuum canister or can it be plugged directly into the tree? My tab/tad have been eliminated.

94 5.8/E4OD Edelbrock efi intake, jba headers, transgo shift kit. 6" PC stage II, 4.88 gears, front Aussie. Warn HS9500, custom bumper and sliders. RedHead steering and TieRod flip.
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post #44 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 11:02 PM
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Negative.

The purpose of the Vacuum Reservoir is to retain a constant supply of vacuum to the emissions solenoids for consistent operation at all manifold vacuum levels. Vacuum levels constantly change due to accessory use and rpm level.

The EVP is a 5v electrical sensor that tells the EEC the EGR position. It does not operate on vacuum. The EGR is a vacuum operated valve which is commanded by varying metered vacuum from the EVR Solenoid. The EVR Solenoid receives a constant level of vacuum from the Vacuum Canister varying levels of vacuum to the EGR as commanded by the EEC, same as the TAB & TAD Solenoids which operate the TAB & TAD Valves.

To take emission solenoid vacuum directly off of the manifold tree will make a working secondary emissions system inconsistent and cause a CEL with associated DTCs.

Keep your EGR connected to the EVR, and the EVR connected to the Vacuum Canister. Due to the Vacuum Canister Check Valve, make sure your Manifold Vacuum and Solenoid Vacuum lines are on the correct side. The blank post is for orientation - the red manifold vacuum to the left and the black solenoid vacuum to the right with the Orientation Post to the bottom.

And be sure that the EVR top vacuum port goes to the EGR and the EVR bottom vacuum port goes to the vacuum canister. All emissions solenoids are actuators on top and canister vacuum supply on bottom. Unless you mount the solenoid upside down.











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post #45 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-01-2017, 12:37 PM
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For anyone else wondering, here is my 1990 Emissions Vacuum Harness before the Silicone Vacuum Line upgrade.

RED line from Manifold Vacuum to Vacuum Reservoir
Black line from Vacuum Reservoir to TAB/TAD/EVR Solenoids
Pink TAB Solenoid line out to TAB Valve
Yellow TAD Solenoid line out to TAD Valve
Green EVR Solenoid line out to EGR


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post #46 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 07:16 PM
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Is the "main" side of the vacuum can supposed to hold vacuum?
Mine doesn't. It takes forever to build up just one HG and it falls off rapidly.

The "A.C" side holds vacuum just fine.

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post #47 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 07:37 PM
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Found this on ford-trucks:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
It only takes 1 test to check a reservoir: apply vacuum with a gauged pump to the nipple for the black line (leave the other open). If it builds up vacuum & holds, the reservoir is good. Otherwise, find a plastic replacement that passes the same test.


I guess mine is fine because I pumped 5 HG into it and it was a VERY slow drop in pressure afterwards that may have been my tester fitting.
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