ZF5 (S5-47) Rebuild - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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ZF5 (S5-47) Rebuild

In the following, I will show you how to tear down and rebuild your ZF5 transmission with new syncronizer rings,

tapered roller bearings, caged gear bearings, and oil seals.

First, drain the transmission. Then, remove the shift tower housing from the transmission case. Then, punch a hole

in and pry out the three cup plugs that hold the shift rail detent springs in the case. Remove the springs and you can

leave the detents in the bores.


Next, stand the transmission up on its tail end and drive the two dowel pins between the rear housing and main case

towards the rear of the transmission.



Then, remove the reverse gear idler shaft bolts from the case.


Then, remove all the bolts holding the rear housing to the front case. Carefully separate and slide the main case up

and off of the rear housing. Be careful not to get the main case stuck on the shift rails.


Remove the main shift rail.


Pull the reverse gear idler shaft out of the reverse idler gear.


Take out the reverse idler gear, making sure to catch the two caged bearings.


Remove the three socket head bolts holding the shift rail plate to the rear housing.


Strap the shift rails, countershaft, and main shaft together with some ratchet straps in preparation for removal from

rear case half.


Lift out the above strapped bundle.


Lay your parts out to work.


Pull the input shaft off of the main shaft and slide the syncronizer collar off the 3-4 syncronizer body. Catch the

sliding detents and springs.


Inspect the 4th gear syncronizer ring and input shaft/4th gear syncronizer cone for abnormal wear.



Now, at this point the rebuild manual calls for some special bearing puller collets that I didn't have and didn't want

to purchase. We're replacing the bearings anyways right? First bearing to be removed is the large tapered roller

bearing on the input shaft. I cut the cage off and then used a generic bearing puller.



Next, to remove the tapered roller bearings from the countershaft. First I cut the cage off.


Then, hook up the generic bearing puller.



Next bearing to remove is the input shaft pocket bearing from the main shaft. I was able to get the generic bearing

puller behind this bearing and therefore did not have to cut the cage off and pull from the front edge.


The final tapered roller bearing to remove is the rear mainshaft bearing. You must first remove a large snap ring

(4WD style has this snap ring, not sure about 2WD models).



Once this bearing is off, you can pull 5th gear off the mainshaft.


Follow that up with removing the 5th-reverse syncro sliding ring and be sure to catch the three sliding detents and

springs that will come out.

I then moved to the front of the mainshaft and removed the large snap ring that was behind the input shaft pocket

bearing and that ensures the 3-4 syncronizer body doesn't move on the shaft.


Now you're ready to pull your first syncronizer body! For this step, it is strongly recommended to purchase the

required service tools. YOu will need puller collets; T87T-7025-NH, T87T-7025-MH. You will also need collet

retaining ring T87T-7025-OH. Use collet NH to setup on the 3-4 syncronizer body and pull with a standard three jaw

puller.



Now to get ready to pull the 1-2 syncronizer body off the main shaft, slide it all the way towards 2nd gear.


Set up collet MH on the actual sliding sleeve of the syncronizer assembly as such.



Start pulling the 2nd gear and the 3rd gear bearing race and thrust washer off the mainshaft.


Make note of the direction the 1-2 syncro sliding sleve you just pulled off was facing. Tapered end facing 1st gear.


Next remove the large snap ring holding the 1-2 syncronizer body onto the main shaft.


Then for some reason I flipped back around to the rear of the main shaft and started pulling the 5-revers syncronizer

body with the collets and collet retainer.


Lastly you can just pull directly on 1st gear towards the front of the mainshaft to get the 1-2 syncronizer body off

the shaft.


All broken down.


Now we must remove the bearing races from the front and rear case halves since we are replacing all the tapered roller

bearings. Its no good to re-use old races with new rollers. To do this requires a blind hole bearing puller. I found

that OTC 6542 works well and is cheap.


Set up your puller and slide hammer and such and remove all the races in the case halves.



Make sure not to lose the race spacers from the two races in the front case half.



This concludes the tear down of the transmission.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Go and order your rebuild kit and make sure it includes new syncronizer rings, tapered roller bearings, caged gear

bearings, and seals.

To rebuild the unit, lay out all your old and new parts.



First, clamp the main shaft in a soft jaw vice with the output end facing up. Put the reverse gear bearing on the

main shaft and then drop the reverse gear onto the main shaft.


Put your new reverse syncronize ring on the reverse gear.


Put the 5-reverse syncronizer body into the oven at 320 for 20 minutes.


Once its good and hot, grab it and drop it onto the main shaft making sure it seats all the way down towards reverse

gear.


Note that this syncronizer body must be installed with deeper hub facing down (toward the input side of main shaft).


Go ahead and start heating up the rear mainshaft tapered roller bearing.


Reinstall the large snap ring to ensure the 5-reverse syncronizer body can't move on the shaft.


Install the syncronizer sliding ring and the detents and springs onto the 5-reverse syncronizer body.


Put the new 5th gear syncronizer ring onto the 5-reverse syncronizer body making sure the teeth line up in the sliding

ring.


Install the 5th gear roller bearings onto the main shaft.


Drop 5th gear onto the shaft and then grab the hot tapered bearing out of the oven and drop it onto the mainshaft.

Tap it down to make sure its seated.


Once the bearing is cool, reinstall the snap ring you removed during dissassembly.
'

Flip the mainshaft over in the vice so the input end is pointing up. Get your new 1st gear roller bearing and put it

on the mainshaft. Then put first gear on the mainshaft.


Get the new 1st gear syncronizer ring and put it on the taper of first gear as shown.


Heat up the 1-2 synronizer body and drop it onto the main shaft.


Reinstall the large snap ring to ensure the 1-2 syncronizer body can't move on the mainshaft.


Next install the 1-2 syncronizer sliding ring and the three detents and springs onto the 1-2 syncronizer body.

Remember the tapered face goes towards 1st gear!

Get the new second gear roller bearing and install it on the mainshaft as well as second gear.


Next, put the 3rd gear bearing race/spacer and thrust washer in the oven to heat. Once they are hot, drop them on the

mainshaft after second gear. Tap down to make sure both are seated.


Once these have cooled, install the new 3rd gear bearing and third gear.


Put the new 3rd gear syncronizer ring onto 3rd gear taper.


Heat up the 3-4 syncronizer body and drop it onto the mainshaft next.


Reinstall the snap ring to hold the 3-4 syncronizer body onto the main shaft.


Inspec the input pocket bearing race and oil scoop in the back of the input shaft for damage. A new oil scoop ring

came with my rebuild kit but mine was in good shape so I didn't replace.


Heat the input shaft pocket bearing in the oven and drop it onto the main shaft.


Main shaft is now rebuilt.


No pictures, but heat up the two tapered roller bearings that go on the countershaft and drop them on.

Now install all the bearing races into the front and rear case halves. Do not install the bearing shims under the

races in the front case half at this time!



Mesh the mainshaft and countershaft together and bind them up with a ratchet strap.


Set up the mainshaft and countershaft such that the end is hanging off your workbench. Then slide the rear case half

over the main and countershafts.



Carefully grab it all and stand it up.


Make sure and space the case up a bit as the mainshaft output extends slightly past the end of the case.


Grab your new reverse idler gear shaft bearings and install them along with the reverse gear idle shaft and reverse

gear idler bearing.


Take the front case half and slide it down over the main and countershaft.


Put some bolts in to hold the case halves together and then flip the works over.


Now we check the bearing clearance to determine the shims we need to set the proper bearing preload. Tapered bearing

preload is very important with this transmission since the case material (aluminum) is different from the main and

countershaft material(steel). These two materials will expand at different rates when in use and hot and this could

lead to excessive clearance in the tapered roller bearings.

To check the mainshaft tapered roller bearing clearance, set up the dial indicator on the output end of the mainshaft.


Pry up on the end of the input shaft. Make note of the clearance.


To check the bearing clearance on the countershaft, I used a magnetic level on the 4th gear driven gear on the

countershaft and set up the dial indicator to measure off of it.


Then pry up on the 4th gear driven gear of the countershaft from the other pto hole in the front case half. Note the

clearance from the dial indicator.


Once you have these clearances with no shims installed you can calculate the required shim thickness. For the

countershaft you take the clearance and add between 0.00079"-0.00434" to this number and that is the required shim

thickness you need to add under the front race on the countershaft tapered bearing. For the main shaft, you take the

recorded clearance and subtract the thickness of the new oil baffle. Then add 0.00079"-0.00434" to this number and

you have the required thickness of the main shaft front tapered bearing shim. I was lucky and the shims I removed

from the transmission would work to set proper preload after rebuilding.

Turn the transmission back over and remove the front case half. Set up your blind bearing race puller and slide

hammer.


Pull the two bearing races from the front case half and then install the shims and hammer the races back in the front

case half.


You will have to pull the main and countershafts out of the rear case half to install the shift rails and collars. It

will be a pain to get it all back in the rear case half but it can be done with no special tools.


Reinstall the socket head screws to the shift rail plate in the rear case half.


Reinstall the reverse idler gear and shaft. Install the lower bolt through the case to hold the idler shaft in place.


Don't forget the magnet.


Install the main shift rail.


Pick up some anaerobic sealant from the parts store and lay out a nice bead on the flange of the rear case half.

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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Drop the front case half back onto the rear case half and start the bolts. Take the bolts finger tight and then drive the two dowels back in aligning the case halves. Tighten the bolts holding the front and rear case halves to 17 ft-lb.


Install the other reverse gear idler shaft bolt.


Before the sealant cures, bolt on the shift tower and stub and run through the gears to make sure there were no

mistakes.


Install the new input shaft oil seal. The small block version of the ZF5 is constructed such that the input shaft oil

seal can be replaced without tearing down the trans. Just tap it in with a big socket. There is no positive stop in

the bore but the manual just said to drive it in so the end is flush with the case.



Turn the transmission over and drive in the output shaft oil seal with a piece of pipe of PVC.


Put the shift rail springs back in the bores and install new cup plugs. Your done!
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 05:11 PM
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What did the syncro pullers and rebuild kit cost you?

It's not custom if you bought it from a catalog!
Visit my build thread- http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=211825
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 07:34 PM
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Nice writeup & pics!

At what point did you hammer the dowel pins back across the case joint? Under what conditions (age, miles, symptoms) does this trans need to be rebuilt? Is there some reason NOT to order the kit before tearing the trans down; i.e., do you have to take some measurements or get some PNs from the original before you can get the right kit? Is a torque wrench necessary at any point in the procedure, and if so, do you have the torque specs? Did the kit come with a selection of front case shims, or do they have to be ordered separately after taking the clearance measurements? It might be useful to include a full list of the special tools required, & their costs (also the kit, sealant, etc.) at the beginning of the writeup so the full cost of DIY-ing can be assessed.

For more info about applications, check the 3rd page of this ZF PDF.



This reminds me a lot of a Land Rover trans I rebuilt once, only this one looks a LOT easier to reassemble. The LR trans had a central plate instead of a tailhousing that would stand up on its own. 2 guys who knew what they were doing had to help me stuff it all back together.





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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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I purchased the rebuild parts from cobratransmission.com. Seemed like a pretty good kit. I got the syncronizer puller collets from ebay. I payed roughly $50 for them. Search with those part numbers I posted.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 12-30-2012, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
At what point did you hammer the dowel pins back across the case joint?
Good question. I have since gone back and edited this part of the rebuild for clarity. See post #3.

Quote:
Under what conditions (age, miles, symptoms) does this trans need to be rebuilt?
I cannot accurately answer these questions. I have heard of second hand reports of these transmissions outlasting trucks. Also heard of instances of wasting syncronizer rings in thousands of miles. From what I gather, fluid fill choice is very important. Synthetic ATF is what Ford recommends. The use of "gear oil" is a quick way to waste the wear items of this transmission. Typical symptoms necessitating a rebuild might be grinding when going into gear at speed. Roaring from transmission could indicate bad bearings or improper bearing pre-load.

Quote:
Is there some reason NOT to order the kit before tearing the trans down; i.e., do you have to take some measurements or get some PNs from the original before you can get the right kit?
No reason that I can think of. There are no measurements or part numbers that you need to obtain before ordering parts. The only thing to specify when ordering your rebuild kit would be if you have either an S5-47 or an S5-42. Essentially the same transmission, just different revisions and a few changes (namely cup plugs holding the shift rail detents in are larger in the later revision).

Quote:
Is a torque wrench necessary at any point in the procedure, and if so, do you have the torque specs?
A torque wrench is only necessary when tightening the bolts holding the case halves together. I have updated the writeup with this value. See post #3.

Quote:
Did the kit come with a selection of front case shims, or do they have to be ordered separately after taking the clearance measurements?
Unfortunately, no rebuild kit will come with the tapered bearing shims. ZF has a part number for a shim kit (1307SMK) which has a large selection of shims. In my searching, this kit could be found online, but was quite costly. I suppose the DIY'er could visit their local transmission shop once they measure the shim thickness they require for a proper shim. Again, in my instance, I was able to re-use the existing shims after the rebuild.

Quote:
For more info about applications, check the 3rd page of this ZF PDF.
Good information. For some other good info, visit the below pages.
ZF Rebuild Parts
ZF Spare Parts
Ford to ZF P/N reference

And for the goldmine: ZF Transmission Manuals and ZF S5-42/S5-47 Rebuild Manual
The above manual is exactly what Ford put in the factory service manual. You get it from ZF for free.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracerx View Post
Not sure if it's my PC, but none of the pics work.
Maybe because he's using photo-bucket?

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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-05-2015, 06:42 PM
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Hi!! I'm new to the forum. This has been a very helpful thread so far but I've come to a road block... I'm unable to get a snap ring on after heating the gear. Hopefully this link works.
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-05-2015, 06:48 PM
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Looks like gear is not down far enough to expose the complete slot. Might have to go back thru that shaft and figure out what you have stacked wrong.
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-05-2015, 08:42 PM
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Oh man.. I figured it out. feeling pretty dumb, lol. Wrong gear........ wow. Fixed. Thanks!!
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-04-2015, 09:03 PM
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Any tips on removing the larger bearing race from the front case half? As it looks, there are no slots for the puller to grip under the race like on the smaller races. Looks like the old spacer/shim is in the way. Thanks!
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 09:07 PM
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Im gunna try and pull this forum from its dirt nap!

I have a zf5 that is a fresh rebuild but its a 460 pattern. I got it in trade for my old c6 plus he threw me some cash so im happy. Question is... Can i swap the guts into my small block pattern front case? Any parts that are different. I hear the i put shaft is different but hopefully i can just swap shafts? And perhaps a new i put shaft bearing if that part of it ia different aswell. Any thoughts

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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 11:40 PM
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When looking for a new tail housing for my 460 ZF5 there were two different tail housings listed - the 7.3 and 460 tail was about an inch longer than the 351/300. That may play out in drive line length.
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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 12:20 AM
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I was thinking of using the tail housing off my current in use trans. Basically a full gut swap, i guess now ill dig around and see what the deal is on output shafts and thier length and or the length of the adapter. I just dont wanna pull my trans and ve stuck without a part lol. I need my wheels

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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 12:22 AM
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The part manuals are available on @ ZF just compare the two transmissions. I am not for sure but I think the gear ratios are different.
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 12:24 AM
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 12:34 AM
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Thanks man. Just trying them again, i checked those links out some time ago and zf has pulled all the info. I do have the rebuild shop manual. I think tomorrow ill pull thenguts out and then compare part measurements to those of a parts shop i found online with basically everything inside the zf

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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 10:32 AM
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Ok I see that they have completely removed the info at the links and elsewhere from the ZF site. I have the PDFs stored elsewhere and will see if I can help out this thread by storing them somewhere like dropbox or google drive so they will be more permanent. May take me a day or so to track them down.

I will say if the guts are actually the same you will have to take some special measurements inside the case because the thrust spaces vary according to case tolerances. Read this entire post over and over soaking up where he is taking his measurements and choosing the proper shims. Not doing this can lead to noisy transmissions and excessive wear. You could possible destroy the gear set or the case. Expensive waste just to skip needed steps. The ZF is not your typical manual transmission from the 70s-80s.
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 11:56 AM
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I think the best solution is to swap in a 460.
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