ZF 5 SWAP 1980-86 - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 09:20 AM
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I have a complete 88 f250 351 zf5 in my driveway if y'all want some measurements or pics of MCs or whatnot. It's the future donor for my zf5 swap into a 96 f350.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
I have a complete 88 f250 351 zf5 in my driveway if y'all want some measurements or pics of MCs or whatnot. It's the future donor for my zf5 swap into a 96 f350.


Same here.


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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2017, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Great thread @tkrone8970 . I swapped my M5OD for a ZF5 some years back. That swap was uneventful but I just had my ZF5 rebuilt and learned a painful lesson that I wanted to share. I think this thread is as good as any of the ZF5 threads, hopefully you don't mind my addition.



When I first installed my ZF5, I had read to use the same year slave cylinder as the recipient truck (1996). I did just that and had no issues. Bleeding the slave was very easy, they essentially bleed themselves. It is the bleeding of a new master / hyd. line that generates all the horror stories out there.



Well I just had my ZF5 rebuilt in Phoenix and as I was buying a new clutch I also ordered a new slave for the hell of it. This time I wasn't thinking and ordered a 1988 slave to match my ZF5. Once I had my transmission bolted in and ready to go, I went to hook up the hydraulic line and realized the connector was not incompatible. Rather than drop the transmission and try to return the slave to Rockauto, I opted to buy a new hydraulic line for $44. The new line attached to my master just fine and plugged into the slave but the hard plastic was routed completely differently due to where it exits the master. This caused me to have to force it into a shape that worked and this made me very nervous. But worse yet, I could not get the system to bleed (or so I thought).



For the next 2 weeks I tried everything I could think of to bleed the system. Gravity, 2 person pump and hold, and removing the mater and line from the truck and stretching them out vertically. Frustrated beyond belief, I resigned myself to the fact I may need to drop the tranny again just to swap out the slave. But, in one last act of desperation I toured my local junk yard and found 2 F-250s with Hydraulic clutches. The F-250 master is significantly bigger bore than the Bronco MC. I theorized in the yard that the F-250 moves a greater volume of fluid and my problem wasn't air at all but volume. $12 later and I had the F-250 MC and line home and installed in my Bronco. It will bolt in but required some redneck engineering. I also ended up defeating my neutral safety switch and I'm not happy about that. But, it all works great now and my pedal is firmer and better feeling than ever. If I have to drop the tranny again someday I'll go back to my Bronco MC so I can have my safety back but for now the truck feels great!



I just wanted to share this story for those contemplating a ZF-5 swap. The morale is....... if you already have a manual, use the slave for your year truck.


Thanks for the added info, still havenít bled mine yet(still finishing up the engine), but Iím sure this info will come in handy. I think I was reading your saga on the Facebook group? Glad you got it squared away.


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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 06:51 PM
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ZF5 swap

I've done a zf5 swap on my 1980 f150. however, i'm havingclutch issues where I think the spacing between the fingers of the pressure plate and throw out bearing is larger then it should be. the master and slave have been properly bleed. yet I don't feel any resistance in the peddle til its an inch or two from the floor. I'm thinking that I need a taller pressure plate, but wanted to know if other people have encountered this problem and possible solutions. maybe even the right clutch I need to get.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:31 AM
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Hey, I'm planning doing this exact same swap this summer. I was wondering if anyone has a complete list of with bolts are needed for where and if they need thread locker or not. I know that another thread had it but I can't find that thread done by Dan90FSB on his swap. If someone could help me that would be great.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, I'm planning doing this exact same swap this summer. I was wondering if anyone has a complete list of with bolts are needed for where and if they need thread locker or not. I know that another thread had it but I can't find that thread done by Dan90FSB on his swap. If someone could help me that would be great.


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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tkrone8970 View Post
Yep that's the one! Thanks!

Also, does anyone know how to wire in the neutral safety switch without replacing the whole wiring harness? Its for an 84 carbed so I don't need to worry about it affecting fuel injection or anything like that.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:30 PM
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Yep that's the one! Thanks!

Also, does anyone know how to wire in the neutral safety switch without replacing the whole wiring harness? Its for an 84 carbed so I don't need to worry about it affecting fuel injection or anything like that.
This is very simple.

Find the 4 wire plug for the reverse / neutral safety switch.

Cut the two wires for the neutral safety and splice them together.
Then wire the other two to the proper reverse light plug for the manual transmission.



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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluedragon View Post
I've done a zf5 swap on my 1980 f150. however, i'm havingclutch issues where I think the spacing between the fingers of the pressure plate and throw out bearing is larger then it should be. the master and slave have been properly bleed. yet I don't feel any resistance in the peddle til its an inch or two from the floor. I'm thinking that I need a taller pressure plate, but wanted to know if other people have encountered this problem and possible solutions. maybe even the right clutch I need to get.
Did you ever figure this out? I'd start by looking at the linkage underneath the dash. Shine a light up on the pedal assembly and work the clutch. Does the clutch arm activate the master cylinder immediately? If not, your issue is in your clutch pedal and linkage.
If it activates the master cylinder plunger the moment you move the clutch, then it's either still air in the system, or something further on down. There's an inspection cover on the side of the ZF5. Pop it off and shine a light in and have someone else work the clutch while you look at it.


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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 01:37 AM
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Well my project is going a lot slower than I thought and I have come upon another road block. I finally got my c6 out but I noticed that there were no other holes drilled into the frame to move the cross member back for the zf. Has anyone else came across this problem and have a better solution than making a custom cross member? It is an 84 bronco xlt.
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post #31 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by atruck View Post
Well my project is going a lot slower than I thought and I have come upon another road block. I finally got my c6 out but I noticed that there were no other holes drilled into the frame to move the cross member back for the zf. Has anyone else came across this problem and have a better solution than making a custom cross member? It is an 84 bronco xlt.
Yes, I swapped a ZF5 into my '85 last year in place of an AOD.

There's a ZF5/M5OD specific crossmember.



It curves back to accommodate the extra length.



If you find the crossmember, be sure to grab the two drop brackets for the upper sides. They curve back, so that they can still use the same upper bolt holes (saves trying to figure out how to re-drill those!)

The light dusty one is the ZF5 bracket, the dark rusty one is the original AOD/C6.





This makes it so you only have to drill one new hole on each side, and that's it.






If you can't find the 5 speed specific crossmember, then you'll have to go custom.


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