D. Junkyard Parts Truck
So you've got the tranny and the rest of your parts from your parts truck but you'll still need a couple things. As previously stated, these parts can be sourced at the Junkyard. We're looking for an '83-'86 manual transmission Bronco or more likely F-150+. I suggest using an app like Row52.com or your local JYs website to set an alert for whenever one comes in. They aren't impossible to find, just set up an alert asap and one should pop up. For those not trying to go the JY route I have seen most of these parts pop up on eBay. Some of the magazines offer them too (LMC, etc.) but you're definitely paying for it.
So as a quick recap we'll need the following from our JY truck:
Clutch Pedal Assembly
Steering Column (JY one will not have gear selector obviously)
Backup Indicator Light Wire
Circled below is where this will plug in to give you a better idea of what youíre looking for.
Getting any of these parts isn't entirely difficult, but I will give a quick walk through of the process.
Youíll have to take the steering column out to access the clutch pedal assembly anyway so let's start there. Start by removing the steering column plastic cover. There are two knobs on the left most side of the dash panel.
Using a pair of pliers, push in the tabs behind the knobs and pull them off. Then remove the dash panel by unscrewing all attaching screws, I believe thereís about 4-6, and pulling the panel off. Be careful to maneuver it around the column so you donít snap a piece off.
Next follow the steering column to the firewall and remove the 5 3/8Ē bolts from the plate. The ratcheting wrench I referenced above was a big help in the tight quarters.
Then head under the hood and remove the 5/8Ē bolt that connects the column to the shaft. Remove the bolt and the securing clip.
Head back in the cab and remove the 6 9/16Ē bolts that clamp the column to the pedal assembly. This will cause the column to drop since nothing is supporting it.
Undo all connections, I believe there are about 3, taking note of where youíll be attaching them in your BKO. My finger is pointing at one and then there are 2 that look like the one sitting on the ground. Thereís also vacuum line to disconnect.
You should be able to wriggle the column out at this point. It may take some back and forth between the hood and cab as you pull it and it gets caught along the way.
Now youíll have much clearer access to the pedal assembly. Begin here by using pliers to pull the pin from brake pedal that secures the booster rod. Slide everything attached off.
Do the same on the other side on the clutch pedal. DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT ON TOP. Simply remove the pin on this side and slide the clutch master cylinder rod off. Thanks again to
for this tidbit. Apparently the nut is a splined press fit and can only be installed once. You take it off and you need a new one. Only problem is nobody makes them anymore so youíll need a whole new clutch assembly. So letís just avoid that whole endeavor entirely shall we?
Disconnect the wires on the right and left side of this picture.
Next peek your head directly underneath the pedal assembly and youíll see the 2 hidden bolts that secure it to the dash as well as a third directly in front of those.
Remove the 4 9/16Ē bolts that secure the assembly to the firewall. They are actually attached to the brake booster.
Now youíll need to head back under the hood and pull the brake booster out so weíll have enough room to remove the assembly.
At this point you can head back into the cab and recover your prize! I found it easiest to basically grip the bottom of the assembly and maneuver it out, being careful of the clutch pedal attachments on the left.
Also while weíre here, since our master cylinder doesnít come with the nuts to tighten it to the firewall letís grab them here. They are located inside the cab just to the right of the brake pedal.
Youíre almost done! Head underneath the truck and on the driverís side frame you should see a wire attachment that looks like this.
Disconnect it and its end and you have everything you need!
E. C6 Removal
So, Iím gonna save myself the writing and you the reading by making this simple. This process is more or less the same as the ZF 5 removal with a few variations that I will highlight below. Weíll also go over the difference in removing your column as well.
Weíll start with the column. Looking on the left side of the column, just behind the steering wheel youíll see a looped wire around a stud. This is your gear selector wire.
Using pliers remove it from the loop and either cut the wire off at the top or position it to the side. I kept mine on but thereís not a great reason to.
Before you go to pull the column head under the hood and youíll see the shift linkage. As you can see I wriggled it loose up top and removed the nut from below. Not sure if itís the best way but it worked for me.
Thereís not a real lot different from there other than since the C6 is an automatic youíve got a torque converter and flexplate. The torque converter is heavier than you think and full of fluid so be careful there.
You will want to remove the tranny cooler lines. Trace them up to the front and remove completely.
Also, take note of the electrical connection you disconnect from the tranny that sits on the frame. Youíll be using it later for your backup light indicator.
F. ZF 5 Installation
Alright my friends weíve finally arrived. Letís get that ZF 5 where itís always belonged, in your BKO! I definitely took quite a bit less pictures as I just wanted to get this in so Iíll do my best to explain. It really is the reverse of the of the removal process. This is a great time to switch out your motor mounts and rear main seal. My engine was already out from a rebuild so Iíll leave it to you to get those done if you so choose. Iíll be reusing some pictures from above for clarity purposes.
First things first, letís replace the clave cylinder. Remove the 2 bolts and slide it off. Also if yours looks anything like this as you go to install youíre doing it wrong.
Simply slide your new one on and tighten it back down. Then attach your hydraulic line. The trick is to have it fully inserted until you can slide the clip in. Once you have it attached be careful not to kink or otherwise break it.
Next is the pedal assembly. Maneuver it in until you can line it up with the brake booster stud holes. Once you do go ahead and throw your brake booster back in.
Before tightening the studs down, insert and tighten the 3 bolts that secure the assembly to the dash. I prefer to do this first for alignment purposes.
Now go ahead and tighten the 4 9/16Ē nuts to the brake booster studs.
So with everything else out this is a good time to cut some holes for the new stuff you need. Weíll need to cut holes for the clutch master cylinder and the transfer case shifter. Letís hit the master cylinder location first. If youíre lucky like I was youíll have some indentations to the left of your brake booster. Turns out Ford did us the favor of having all frames, whether auto or manual, stamped with these starter indentations. I am not quite certain when this began or ended but on my í86 they were there. Look carefully, theyíre quite easy to miss, but they should look like this.
The three vertical indents above the stud hole in the bottom left.
If you do your job here is pretty simple. Grab your gasket from your master cylinder set and line it up to give yourself an idea of what youíre trying to accomplish. I donít remember the exact size bits I used but just compare the studs from the master cylinder and youíll need a little bigger than that for the top and bottom holes. Make sure you drill straight! Alignment with the pedals here is crucial and you only get one shot! The middle hole requires a hole saw bit. I unscrewed the cylinder rod and experimented until I found the right size. I believe it was 1Ē but you should double check.
If you arenít lucky enough to have those indentations my best suggestion is to take measuring tape to the JY when youíre pulling off the rest of your parts and get the info there.
Either way when all is said and done it should look something like this, but with the stud holes drilled as well obviously.
Insert the master cylinder studs into the freshly drilled holes and attach the rod to the pedal assembly. Insert the securing pin. Using the nuts we grabbed from the junkyard secure the master cylinder in its new home. While weíre here weíll reattach out brake booster rod and brake light connection. Donít forget to secure with the pin.
Next weíll want to cut the hole for our transfer case shifter. I went up to the auto store and purchased some gasket material. Make sure itís at least 7Ē tall. Back on my parts truck I cut a template of the hole.
Take some measurements of how far off the shifter plate it is. Once again double check everything as weíve only got one shot at this. Using your template and measurements trace an outline for us to drill out. I, or my dad I should say, used a sawzall to cut this portion. Before doing so double check below the truck that you wonít be sawing off anything. Try to leave as much metal as possible between the tranny shifter plate hole and your new hole. In the end it should look something like this, sans tranny obviously.
Now grab your new steering column for install. I was in an odd situation where the PO had already done a steering column swap so my tumbler key already didnít work for my outside locks. So I skipped this step but most of you will want to keep your current key so make sure you switch the tumbler from your old column over. Since I didnít do this step I canít help you out much here other than to point you to the Chilton or Haynes manual.
This is a bit of a 2 person job getting everything lined up. Insert your new column through the firewall as a buddy lines it up to the shaft under hood. Go ahead and throw your clip and bolt back on.
Tighten down the 5 3/8Ē bolts that hold the plate to the firewall. This is a good opportunity to reattach our electrical connections. There are 2 of these connections so refer to your notes to make sure youre attaching everything correctly.
On the bottom right is a new connection for us. I believe itís the equivalent of a NSS in later model trucks. Youíll have to pull the looped plug pictured below thatís in your truck currently and plug it in. It connects to the blue circled connection in the second picture.
The orange circle connection I am still uncertain about. Once I track down a wiring diagram Iíll update this thread. Any ideas please reply here.
Tighten the 6 9/16Ē bolts that secure the column to the pedal assembly.
Head under the truck with your dust plate, new flywheel and new clutch kit! Dust plate goes on first. Then our flywheel. The flywheel only lines up one way so if your holes arenít lining up keep turning it until it does. Once again a buddy is useful here to hold the flywheel as you thread in the bolts. Donít forget threadlock!
idea of lying on your back under the engine and using your knees to stop a breaker bar on the balancer. This will stop the engine from rotating as you torque the 6 bolts to 80 ft-lbs.
Then using a similarly sized socket, evenly knock your pilot bearing in.
Next, using your alignment tool, line the clutch pressure plate and clutch up on the pilot bearing. Follow the instructions with your clutch to tighten in sequence.
Alright so now weíre really ready to put this thing in! Begin by jacking your truck up and sliding the tranny under the frame. Oh and for the record I ended up using the transfer case from the parts truck. Either one should work as Ford stuck with the 10 spline design for quite some time. I am still shoring up how the connections work out and will update when I know more.
idea of making your own alignment dowels out of grade 3 or 5 7/16-4Ē bolts with a slight variation. He suggested to cut off the tops and make a spot for a flathead screwdriver to remove. When I cut off the ends and had it at about 3.5Ē it would get caught at a weird angle and not let me push the tranny closer to the engine. It worked best for me at about 2Ē. I also suggest only barely threading them in as removal gets pretty tough with the full weight of the tranny on it. DONíT FORGET THE SCREWDRIVER HOLES! Also, take it from me 2 is the magic number here for how many bolts to use. Put them in the second pink holes from the bottom (ummmmmmÖ..yeah canít phrase that differently).
Now once again itís up to you whether you want to connect it with or without the transfer case. Personally I did it unattached since I was having a hell of a time getting this thing aligned. After several attempts with an engine hoist I ended up using a couple of jacks strategically positioned so I could angle the tranny as I needed. Once again, I do not suggest this way as itís not the safest but with a couple people it can be done.
So the key here is to line the tranny spline up with the pilot bearing at the correct angle. Use the alignment dowels to help guide you as well. Once you have it up on the dowels itíll take some jiggling around to get it as tight as possible. However because the pressure plate is doing its job and pushing away its necessary to strategically tighten the tranny bolts. I started left top, hit right bottom, left bottom and right top slowly tightening them as I went.
Once you have those pretty tight you should be able to remove your dowels using the slit you cut for a flathead. Insert the real bolts and tighten those as well. Torque all to 50 ft-lbs
Now grab your crossmember from your parts truck and angle it in until itís straight across.
Due to the design differences in the crossmembers weíll actually be lining the bolt up on the hole towards the rear on the frame. Its about an inch away from the one the C6 crossmember used. Torque 45-55 ft-lbs.
While we have the tranny jacked up still slide the tranny mount into position on the crossmember. Itís important to put it on the right way or it will not line up correctly. Luckily most manufacturers stamp ďREARĒ on the, get this, rear. Lower the tranny and once you have it lined up correctly torque the mount to tranny bolts 45-60 ft-lbs. Then the mount to crossmember nuts and washers 60-80 ft-lbs.
Now torque the gussets, first the frame to gusset, then the gusset to crossmember bolts 45-55 ft-lbs. Its now safe to completely remove your jack or engine hoist.
Connect your transfer case and tighten bolts. Couldnít find any torque specs but they donít need much.
Replace your speedometer cable and clip.
Grab your backup light indicator cable and attach the frame connection first. I had to loop the cable around the crossmember gussets a few times and then connected to the backup indicator light plug.
Throw your MANUAL starter on and torque 15-20 ft-lbs.
Throw your front driveshaft from your parts truck and torque to spec.
Now just a few things in the cab. Line the shifter plate up with appropriate holes and tighten the 9 8mm bolts.
Reattach the shifter, bezel and boot for both the transmission and transfer case shifters.
Then we get to one of the worst parts of the whole swap. Bleeding the clutch. Follow the procedures below. Its more of a PITA than anything. Credit to
Concentric Slave Cylinder Bleeding
1. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with Coupling Disconnect Tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.
2. Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or -BA (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent. Brake fluid must be certified to DOT 3 specification. By hand, apply 10-15 pounds to clutch pedal; if pedal is hard (.25-.50 inch) movement, skip to Step 9. If pedal is spongy, proceed to next step.
4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
5. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
6. Release the clutch pedal.
The reservoir must be kept full at all times to ensure there will be no additional introduction of air into the system.
7. Refill reservoir to level at step.
8. Repeat steps 4 through 7 one time.
9. Close reservoir. Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder. Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
10. Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
11. Wait one to three minutes.
12. Repeat Steps 10 and 11 three more times.
13. Loosen bleed screw (located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection).
14. Depress and hold clutch pedal while tightening bleed screw 3-5 N-m (2.2-3.7 ft-lb).
15. Refill the reservoir to level at step.
16. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should properly release the clutch.
Donít forget to refill your tranny and transfer case! Use a GL-4 based oil such as Red Line MT-90 for best results.
G. Closing Thoughts
As stated above I will update this after I actually run this thing. Overall as a process though I will say although this was challenging itís far from impossible. If you have any sort of tranny experience this should be a bit of a breeze. Some of the cutting can be a little intimidating for some but I will tell you I had zero experience as long as you take your time and double measure youíll be fine. Congrats on your new tranny! Also Iím sure Iím forgetting something so if you notice something missing please let me know!