hydraboost conversion - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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hydraboost conversion

I have never been good at details but here goes. There is also at great article on this that fourwheeler posted a few years ago. We Boost Our Bronco?s Braking Power With Hydratech?s Hydroboost Conversion Kit

What you get is a choice of three different finishes on the kit but I got the basic one. Jim at Hydratech is a solid guy and a huge help but they are about 8 weeks on delivery.


First of all this is a true bolt on conversion. On my 95 I did not have to modify anything. The unit utilizes the existing holes in the fire wall and the rod for the brake pedal couldn't be simpler to install. I didn't take a lot of install pics when I did mine but between the article I mentioned and the writeups this should help? The kit I got came with Aeroquip braided stainless hoses and all the connectors needed. The instructions were very detailed and straightforward. A couple of tips that bear repeating are....


1. Since the braking system is a safety system be sure and allow plenty of time.

2. Inspect everything from the master cylinder to the shoes and pads. Replace anything questionable.

3. If your master cylinder is good and you don't need to loosen a brake line or anything this booster can be installed without even bleeding your brakes.


First step after all this is the removal of the vacuum booster. Start by removing the master cylinder from it and be sure not to push too hard on the brake lines, they will kink.

Once that is out of the way go up under the dash and remove the four nuts holding the booster to the firewall. Also remove your brake linkage but be sure you take a picture of the brake switch, its 50/50 on reinstall if you don't remember how it was oriented. Then remove the old booster and use it as a target on your range.

Then put some RTV black on the hydraboost unit for a seal to the firewall and install it. The bolt holes line up perfectly and the brake linkage is simple to install even for an old grunt. Tighten the nuts against the firewall but don't go all gorilla on them. Adjust the linkage and then tighten the locknuts on the rod. Go a little gorilla on them because this is not a connection that ever needs to accidently get loose. Go back under the hood and layout the hoses. Here is the fun part but if you have ever messed with braided lines you probably know this already.

Layout the hoses and mark them because the ones that come with the kit are cut to length. Once you are satisfied with the dimensions, measure again. Then tape he braided hose at cut mark with electrical tape and do not be bashful. The tape helps keep the braid from fraying and if you get a cornsilk display on your braid then trying to attach the connector will cause you to lose your temper. Again, this is a tech file on hydraboost.com I cut mine in a vise with a rotozip cutoff wheel.

I still have the stock pump but this kit can also fit the Saginaw pump just be sure and specify that when you order it. Once the hoses are cut and the connectors installed on the hoses, go ahead and install them, see the diagram below. The return line has a "T" fitting that requires you to cut your low pressure return line READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

After all the connections are in and tight, go ahead and fill up the PS pump as much as you can. It will take more than normal because of the volume of the booster and hoses. The pump will growl and here is where the arm workout gets started unless you jack up the front end. I did jack mine up and went lock to lock, checked and added fluid, lock to lock, check and add fluid, lock to lock....so forth and so on. I am not kidding when I say I went lock to lock 25+ times. The pump can and will burp fluid which is flammable. I placed a shop rag over the neck and it kept the fluid from spraying everywhere.

Once the pump is full at temp and the growl has pretty much subsided, test the brakes. The system will take a few hundred miles to settle in but when you hit your brakes to avoid that deer, your coffee will spill and your chest will hit the steering wheel. I am not kidding when I say this improved my braking a hundred fold. This thing stops better than my car.

I hope this helps because we all need solid braking. If you have questions, PM me and I'll try to answer if not [email protected] can. This is one of the best mods I made to my Bronco.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 10:50 PM
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good looking solid kit I will be trying one out on a 1995 f350 in the future. does it cause the rear brakes to lockup to soon ?

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
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It seems to work well with my ABS...I've not had any issues with the rear wheels locking up. Good luck. Wish I had taken more pictures but at the time I wasn't thinking about posting a write up, I had to get this thing on the road...
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78-79FordMan View Post
good looking solid kit I will be trying one out on a 1995 f350 in the future. does it cause the rear brakes to lockup to soon ?
Very possible. On my '78 it does not. However if that does happen an inline adjustable proportioning valve will fix it right up. I am sure the weight balance is very different between my Bronco and what will be your f-350.
Hydroboost is great, some have reported issues with the parts in the kit, but they are all easy to get GM stuff. Issues being soft pedal, and potentially debri causing a sticking spool valve in the hydro unit itself.


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 10:10 AM
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Just for some additional info, especially pertaining to factory systems when doing a HB swap.

Some Ford F-Superduty trucks and a few f350s from 87 up got hydroboost from the factory. I'm not sure if they had RABS or not. They utilize a slightly different pedal assembly, with the pivots in different heights. You can still get new motorcraft HB units from rock auto, etc.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 09:46 AM
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 11:18 PM
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 09:59 PM
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Has anyone modified a superduty setup to fit?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveohmatt View Post
Has anyone modified a superduty setup to fit?
Yes, there are write-ups on that but it does require modifying the mounting. I like simple and when I evaluated the cost of modifying the Super Duty HB including time and all, it made more sense for me to just get a proven kit. Now that I am retired I might have just modified the SD system.

Its a time and money thing for me. If I have the money and it saves me time...I'll get a kit. If I am broke which is more likely I'll take the time to modify. Good Luck
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:36 AM
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The kit worked very good on mine. Took longer to get the air out of the system then to install it
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 07:58 AM
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I part out super duty trucks and have three or four of the hydroboosts laying around i may have to try one.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:57 AM
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@fiveohmatt maybe you can answer a question for me since you part out Super Duties. On most pre ABS trucks the rear brakes were connected to the front master cylinder port, the port farthest from the firewall. Does this still hold true for 99-04 Super Duties?

There is a reason this was done and it involves applying front brakes before the rear. With good eyesight you can usually look down into the ports where the reservoir feeds and actuate the master cylinder. You can usually see one piston in the master cylinder moves before the other. That should be the front brake port.

Next time you are near a super duty maybe you could trace the lines to see which port is front and which is rear. Thanks.
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