September 2017 F.O.T.M. Vote here !!!!! - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
View Poll Results: Who will be your September 2017 F.O.T.M. ???
stm 2 3.51%
MS88Bronc 6 10.53%
SRWillis 15 26.32%
Cobrajoe 24 42.11%
dash_cam 10 17.54%
Voters: 57. You may not vote on this poll

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post #81 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 09:28 AM
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the tailgate wasn't my only water leak. when it rains, both sides of the bronco carpet (driver and passenger) would get wet in the front. so, i started peeling back layers of interior panels. and i found serious signs of water leaks.




and if you looked, you could see why.





so, once again...i "fixed" it.




that was heading into the winter last year. i had hoped to get to do some welding to repair this, but i don't have the skills. also, i'm not looking to paint the thing anytime soon. so, this spring i decided to try sealing it with the 3m auto sealer.






that PRETTY MUCH fixed the leaks. however, i have since discovered that the windshield also leaks...on both sides.
this is the passenger side a-pillar with the trim removed.


and on the driver side, you can see where the water is running down from the windshield as well. i tested this side by pouring water on the windshield and then i saw it run down inside.



fixing this will happen at some point. i tried the 3m sealer on the windshield, but i either did it wrong or didn't do enough. either way it still leaks. i plan to pay someone (yikes) to either remove and reinstall the thing or attempt to re-seal it.
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post #82 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 11:15 AM
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doing nothing but repairs is no fun. sometimes you gotta do a little bit of upgrade, too.

this was before i got my welder. and even if i had it, i wouldn't have tried this b/c i am terrible at welding. so, i made a deal with a local for a set of rock sliders based on designs found on FSB. i bought 2x materials and he made 2 sets of of sliders, giving me one.

i didn't take a ton of pics but here they are in raw form.


i cleaned the metal, primered, and then used the rustoleum spray-on bedliner.




over a few trips off-roading, the finish has held up fairly well. they do need a new coat, though. i'm thinking about using the herculiner roll-on that i have in the garage.

i also pulled the foam and duct tape from the roll bar and used the spray-on bedliner there, too.


and i painted the wiper arms with a fresh coat of black paint. i think used bbq grill high temp paint. they're still looking fine after a couple years. before and after:

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post #83 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 12:49 PM
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I hadn't planned on a paint job for a couple years, but sometimes these things take on a life of their own. It had been about 25 years since I had painted a vehicle, and the more I got into it the more I realized things had changed a bit. I was undecided about what kind of paint or even what color or colors I was going to go with. But, I did know it needed some bodywork. So I started with the repairs I made on the roof cracks.

Here's the driver's side in bondo and Rustoleum primer.



The roof and hood had cracks in the 4 (I think) layers of paint from baking in the desert sun, so I sanded them out and filled them along with a few dents in the hood.





Here's the passenger side with spot putty smoothing it out.



It had a 3/4" wide plastic stripe down the bottom body line that was baked on and I couldn't pull or scrape it off, so the easiest way I could think of was to use a flapper disc on my 4" grinder and sand it off. Of course, I went through the paint in many places, so that meant more sanding to feather the paint.



After all the work (and I didn't realize how much more it would take) and more research, I decided I would paint it the original color in single stage urethane. A friend at work has a connection with a body shop, so I drove it down for him to have a look at it and get a price to shoot it after I get the body work done. I had the feeling he didn't want to do it with me doing the body work myself and he gave me a price of $1500, which sufficiently discouraged me from going back to him.

My friend was there and came out to look at Ol' Faithful and gave me some tips. He saw the spot putty and primer and asked some questions. He strongly suggested they would not be compatible with urethane because of the stronger solvent used, and that I should only use 2 part fillers and primer. So I decided to sand all the rattle can primer and spot putty off. Oh boy, more sanding!
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post #84 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 01:07 PM
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Before I had acquired and subsequently installed the roof rails and crossbars, a guy at work sent out a company-wide email asking if anyone wanted a Yakima rooftop cargo basket. I couldn't type fast enough. So, the next day he brought it with him to work, and he gave it to me in the parking lot outside. FREE?! Um, yes please!




SO, then my search for the roof rails and crossbars went into overdrive. Got them for cheap, as I said earlier, and so after installing them, I attached the basket. It fit PERFECTLY.







Man, this rig is starting to look tough! I may not be improving this brick's aerodynamics, but when you're getting 11 mpg, what's wrong with getting 10 mpg?

Disclaimer: you may notice that I have one black mirror and one chrome(ish). The driver's side mirror is not original, so I'm going to find an original to replace it and then paint it black.


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post #85 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MS88Bronc View Post
FREE?! Um, yes please!
That's my kind of deal! Very nice.
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post #86 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 03:43 PM
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I changed all the brakes lines to stainless steel while I had the front coil spring towers out ( trust me , it's a hell of a lot easier with out the towers in the way. ):





And the junk pile begins to grow:



....while I was at it, I swapped out the stock master & booster for a 1 ton unit:

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post #87 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 04:45 PM
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another thing on my never ending list was the interior. i very quickly stripped out the rear carpet and installed a cheap anti-fatigue mat.

you can see the roll cage was still bare metal.


when i pulled the carpet, i found the build sheet. it was in bad shape, but i wanted to preserve it. i took it to staples or office depot or wherever and had it laminated.


mat installed. this lasted about 2 1/2 years.


here's what it looked like when i removed it a week or two ago. i had wanted to paint the fender wheels and lay down sound deadener, but that's not going to work out right now. regardless, i wanted to get that old mat up and this carpet down.



i grabbed some "UV resistant" outdoor carpet from the home depot. it wasn't the cheapest option but it wasn't expensive. it's a 6' wide roll, so i bought a 5' length. that was a perfect fit. i think it was about $25 with tax. i put down my new carpet right on top of the truck bed.

i first mounted it to the tail gate end. then worked back to the front.


and since i have found all the water leaks, i can finally reinstall the rear paneling. that's been off for probably 1 1/2 to 2 years.

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post #88 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 09:13 PM
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Anybody heard from STM?
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post #89 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 08:54 AM
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September 2017 F.O.T.M. Vote here !!!!!

So since I bought this rig, and like many others, the steering has been a little sloppy with about 1/8 turn of play. When I had the alignment done a while back (when I got new tires), they said that the TREs were in good shape and the ball joints were good, but one was in "ok" shape. So I thought the steering gear might need replacing, but after a few inquiries here at FSB, I decided to address the rag joint first because money.

So I pulled the little plastic cover back and turned the wheel - there looked to be a little slop there so I bought a replacement rag joint.




So I pulled out the lower steering shaft and went to work on it. This was a serious PITA. The side grinder got a workout here and then I had to drill out the flanges where the old rivets were. I actually caught the old rag joint on fire while cutting through the old rivet shafts. The rivets did not knock out as the write up said they would, so the drill did the job. Did I mention PITA??



Evidence of serious grinding and a small fire!


So then I started to reassemble.


The bolts I used were about 1/4" longer then I wanted, but after checking all the clearances, it worked fine with no interferences.


So then I sprayed a quick coat of black paint on it and reinstalled the steering shaft and took it for a test drive. It cleaned up a little bit of the play, but there is still more than there should be - I guess I'll have to start saving for a steering box (and might as well do a pump) upgrade.


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post #90 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 10:04 AM
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I wasn't looking for a show paint job, just a decent driver. So the decision was how far to go with the preparations, but I wanted to do the things that needed to be done. I had already gotten into the seam sealer on the roof repairs on the rear of the gutters, and started looking at more areas and, no surprise found it not in good shape. Using the search function here, I found recommendations for a seam sealer, found it at my local Advance Auto and picked it up. It turned out to be a good product. I used a wire wheel on my drill to remove most of it, but a screwdriver and pick came in handy also.

I found some fairly large holes at the sail panel, one of them wasn't sealed, so I'm glad I had the top off to seal it.









I don't have a before pic, but the sealer at the bottom corners of the was cracked pretty good and it mostly came out with a screwdriver. I tried applying it with an acid brush, but as with most caulking jobs I do, I end up using my fingers to smooth it out as best I could. I ignored the advice to use mineral spirits to smooth it out before it skinned, causing me to have to do more sanding. I wasn't worried about appearance here though.



But I tried to get these areas smoother on the initial application. I went back after it cured for a 2nd time in some areas to smooth it out.







I mentioned the windshield leak before. After taking the trim off, I saw at the top where it looked like the sealer was not installed right. It kinda dipped down where the water would just sit there instead of running off to the sides and draining. So, I cleaned it up and figured the seam sealer would work for that and built it up so the water would run off instead of pooling, and hopefully sealing the leakage area also. Probably not what my windshield guy would recommend, but

Next up, more bodywork and more and more sanding.
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post #91 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 10:17 AM
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wrenching, reparing, and upgrading is fun. but what's the point if we don't actually drive it?!


my brother and i went camping, mountain biking, and kayaking last fall.



one of many trips to the drive-in theater.


on our way to fossil rim wildlife center

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post #92 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 10:53 AM
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when i got the bronco, there was a very old tire cover on it. so i bought a cheap-o ebay special and installed it. it held on with elastic bungee cord all the way around. that was fine until i was driving down the highway and the damn thing blew off! i bought a replacement and ran paracord through it. now it ties into place.



and a different weekend i set out to fix my broken tailgate handle. the latch was bent pretty badly. but with a little bending and prying, i got it back together. and i had to replace a couple of the retaining clips for the tailgate rods. i couldn't find them easily in the parts stores, but my local ford dealership had them in stock. so it worked out.




i've also a lot of work with my CB. it came with a uniden CB that was ok. but i have since upgraded to a cobra 29 WX NW ST, that has weather band. i wanted that for when i'm camping out in places without cell service. it was peaked and tuned by the shop where i bought it. and i also have a road king mic instead of the factory mic.

here you can see the mounting of my CB originally. that came from the previous owner.


now it sits in a tuffy console that i've bolted to the floor. this thing is on lockdown.


it's hard to tell, but this is the floor board. i (poorly) welded three nuts to the floor. then i ran bolts through the console into the these bolts. no one is breaking into my console. if they take the whole thing, they'll have to break off the three nuts.



opened up:


and you can see my external speaker where the CB used to mount


and i don't know why supermotors flipped my pic but it did. the antenna mounts to my tire carrier. it's 3' firestik plus a spring.



the bronco came with a PA speaker connected to the CB. but the wiring was worse than janky. i removed it and the spliced together wiring that was attached. i disassembled the speaker and soldered on fresh new wiring. then i ran it through the firewall where the hood release comes through. i attached the speaker to the fender well next to the fuse box. i actually unclipped the fuse box and gently twisted it to the side so i could drill a hole.
here's the speaker attached and the speaker wire running through the firewall. i used blue silicone to seal the back of the speaker and the firewall (not pictured). that wiring is the same wiring i used in rewiring my speakers.


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post #93 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 11:02 AM
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Yeah I have a similar Amazon tire cover. Elastic cord works well though - was like $50 or $60 maybe? Nice.


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post #94 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 11:53 AM
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a small project i did was adding a remote transmission filter. i wanted to do it for a couple reasons:
1) increased filtering capability
2) adding a temp sensor for the trans fluid

i wanted to test the fluid temp at the exit of the transmission so i know the hottest temp possible. i went through a few different filter kits and settled on this one. it was pretty straight forward, once i found the right filter mount. i eventually installed a proper wix hydraulic filter (not pictured).

and i'll note this as well...when i had to get my transmission rebuilt, the external filter was full of metal. so i was pleased to know it was doing its job...and keeping the cooler free of debris!




these are right angle connectors and they worked great.



my biggest installation challenge was getting the thing attached to my frame. i wanted it high enough to clear any rocks while off roading and far forward enough to avoid the front sway in normal use. what i finally ended up doing was running the bolts sticking inside out from the frame.



i bought a nice pliers-style flaring tool. it's general tools #152G.




other than that, it was just a matter of connecting everything.







the last thing i did was a partial fluid swap in prep for a full on filter change.
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post #95 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 04:04 PM
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as i mentioned before, i never set out to have an eddie bauer edition, that's just what i found. that's ok, but what i do not like is a ton of chrome. my overall plan is to eventually remove all the chrome on my bronco and replace it with other-than-chrome parts.

to that end, i bought a black grill and headlight trim. originally i didn't paint it, but i did go back later and use the spray-on bedliner.



and then painted



i also removed the trim over the fender wells.



and on the interior, i covered the faux wood trim with black vinyl wrap.



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post #96 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MS88Bronc View Post
So, here we go - a short video of me removing the old decal. (by the way, it's hard to video with the left and use the drill with the right - and I wasn't able to put much pressure on it with one hand only. It worked better when I wasn't videoing. (turn your volume down unless you want to have your ear holes invaded by power drill scream)

https://youtu.be/Tx3KHPi9S6I
watched the video. that looks like a total and complete beating
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post #97 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MS88Bronc View Post
Yeah I have a similar Amazon tire cover. Elastic cord works well though - was like $50 or $60 maybe? Nice.


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i didn't pay more than $20, i'm pretty sure. maybe the difference is some $30 elastic?!
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post #98 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 04:43 PM
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September 2017 F.O.T.M. Vote here !!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dash_cam View Post
watched the video. that looks like a total and complete beating

The truck body took it well - my body (specifically my forearms and hands), not so much. It was kinda like the rattle can forearm crampy claw thing. Like I said, it worked much better when I could use two hands to hold the drill and apply a little pressure.


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post #99 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 06:10 PM
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and i don't know why supermotors flipped my pic but it did.

Nice work, FIFY:

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post #100 of 256 (permalink) Old 09-16-2017, 06:51 PM
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I started on the rear sway bar, have to mod the brackets a little to fit the 9" with the truss. I lengthened the sway bar links though :



You can see the difference from my '93 link, and I had added 2" to these about 10 years ago:





So I did manage to finish modifying my sway bar to fit my trussed 9" ; I used two sets of the mounting plates for an 8.8"; I cut the end off that had the slot to catch the tab on the 8.8" housing and then coped them to fit the truss on the back and the radius on the front of the housing. I opened up the slots on the miller to accept 1/2" carriage bolts and it looks like it should work.





Just got to get some Rust Bullet on it to protect it and should be good to go.

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