January Full Size of the Month 2019 Vote Here!!!! - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 08:48 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Teaching the Next Generation

Whew, I am Tired!!

I don't know about you all, but after all those weeks\months installing the sound system, I am ready to hit the pause button on building the Bronco. Let's take it out and put it to use.

As I have said many times, my family and my son are a huge part of why I have such a passion for the Bronco. Its provided endless hours of bonding time for us and we have such a great relationship that I partly credit to the time we spend working on it.

I love the fact that my son wanted to use the Bronco to take his driving test. You should have seen the instructors face when he saw what they were going to be driving. It was pretty comical to watch the driving instructor struggle to get in with his clipboard...


When he was finally able to start (legally) driving we headed to the hills for some 4x4 lessons for him. Nothing crazy hardcore, just learning the fundamentals.

Getting used to the feel of the Bronco going up and over rocks, being at angles, etc


Here we are learning about proper tire placement, navigating tight places, and just getting a feel for the throttle climbing on rocks.


Water crossings, teaching him to take it slow and steady, not creating a wake or risk flooding the engine.


Ok- sometimes you just have to let him have some fun and just "send it".



This is the monster I created. Here is the Bronco in the school parking lot. I got a call from the Vice Principal saying that Colton was abusing his parking privileges and to consider himself warned, next time he would lose them. He would also appreciate me talking to him.


Boy did I ever. I gave him a strong talking to.

It went something along the lines of how disappointed I was that he did not find a much bigger rock. I mean really? He didn't even come close to maxing out the approach or departure angle.

Sigh, kids these days..

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M

Last edited by 96bronco; 01-08-2019 at 11:25 AM. Reason: reorganized content
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post #22 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:08 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Body Armor Time!

That was a lot of fun to get out wheeling "yesterday" and reaping the benefits of all the hard work we put in on the Bronco. My son is really becoming a pretty good driver. We will get to some more off-road adventures later, but if we want a vehicle up to the task, we also have to put in the build time.

Anytime the Bronco goes out, whether it's in the mountains or the snow, I wash it as quickly as I can. The worst is the mag chloride they use on the roads here in Colorado. Much like salt, it will eat your vehicle if you are not on top of it. You will notice that there is still snow on the ground and the outside temperature is around 40 degrees at 3 pm. I had to wash it on the road, if I did it on my concrete driveway it freezes solid. The asphalt holds the heat a little better.


It seems like no matter where I am at with the Bronco it a conversation starter. I was filling it up with gas and an older gentleman in a Telsa came over and told me how nice it was and that he used to have one. He told me to never sell mine as he still regretted selling his. No worries there..lol. While I was washing it in this pic a guy in a newer F150 stopped in the middle of the road and we started talking. l told him the story about how it's a father-son project. He told me about his 88 and how he wished he'd kept it to do the same with his son.

One of the distinct characteristics of my Bronco is the front bumper setup. I get SO many questions about it. Both of the above guys wanted to know all about it. I will continue to update on the mods I have done recently but it's also a building process.. (haha pun intended). Let's start with some history on the body armor- specifically the front bumper.

The short is that its a Broncoair bumper with a Malik grill guard cut down and bolted on top of it. The bumper story is the perfect storm of my OCD on the overall look of the Bronco, the miser in me, and how patient I can be when it comes to the first two.

I have always had off-road bumpers on my never-ending list of upgrades. Those who have been down this road know that they can get expensive fast. Chris started making his bumpers at least 10 years ago. I immediately fell in love with them. I think he makes one of the best looking fully functional front bumpers for late model Fords. The problem was the price point just didn't fit my budget. Here is where patience comes in. I drooled over them for years and years.

Finally, I stumbled across an FSB member who was parting out his Bronco and it has this bumper on the front. I had always thought I would go with the Broncoair upper, but I really like the look and uniqueness of the Malik brush guard on this one. It's literally one of a kind. I practically begged this person to sell me the bumper. We went back and forth for months. Understandably he really didn't want to go through the hassle of packing and shipping such a large item from the east coast ironically back to Colorado where Broncoair is based out of. Not to be deterred I did a lot of calling and found a freight shipping place that was pretty cheap and would pallet the bumper for us. He finally agreed and a deal was struck. I can't tell you how happy I was and still am.

Here we are bringing it home! It barely fits in the back of the Bronco.


At first glance it appeared to be in really good shape, at least from the front, just needed some buffing right? Wrong, the east coast winters combined with a lack of initial protection lead to it have some rust issues. Man, the labor we would have saved if even one coat of primer or paint had been applied to the back when it was new.


My son jumped right in and started stripping off the rust and old paint


We used a combo of wire wheels, Evapo rust, and lots of hand sanding to attack the backside. Here it is all wrapped up and soaking.


The above combo worked pretty well. Above the brace is untouched, below is after soaking and then working it with the wire wheel.


After 20+ hours, (mainly all by my son) of working on it, it cleaned up pretty good. Nearly all of the rust was still on the surface and we were able to get it off.


Primer applied. Like my high tech paint booth? LOL


I could see the effort the previous owner put in on the front trying to keep the rust at bay. The only issue was he failed to remove\tape off the PIAA lights before painting, so we had to get them cleaned up.


I fell bad for those of you on the East Coast. Even the back side of the PIAA lights were starting to rust and they were only a few years old.



All the misc stuff cleaned up and painted.


2 coats of primer and 3 coats of matt black


The previous owner had 4 lights mounted on the grill guard and wanted to keep those so we had 4 holes that needed to be filled. As we were working on the rust issue I was watching Craigslist. I know LEDs are all the rage and hands down better in nearly every category, except the one that's was most important to me which was price!! Plus I like the look of the older style KC lights on Broncos. I think it fits the style\era better than the new ones, but that's just me.

I scored these 4 KC lights off of craigslist for next to nothing. The guy upgraded to LED and just wanted them out of his garage. Win-win for both of us. At the time they came complete; harness, fuses, relays, and switches. 2 are floods and the other 2 are long range driving. More on the harness and switch story later...




Here are the two pieces almost ready to put together.


We thought the grill guard was ready to go but upon closer inspection, more rust... sigh.


After another half a day getting the rust demons off the grill and we were able to put it all back together


We all know what the front stock bumper looks like, but here is a picture anyway


Front bumper off:


Sway bar all disconnected and ready for installing the bracket.


Shots of the bracket. I have seen complicated mounting systems for bumpers. These are so simple and effective.


Getting it all lined up with the floor jack


The stock bumper had always been so close to my 35's.. 3" of clearance in fact:


New bumper more than doubled the Clearance: 7"


A few shots with the bumper installed:




Here we mocked up the KC lights, but not wired yet. That saga will have to be for another post.


Some poser shots





and my favorite shot:


That was a lot of work getting the bumper fixed up and installed. We still have to get all those lights wired up. And why buy a winch bumper if you don't intend to put a winch in it? We will get to all of that tomorrow!

Thanks for going on this Bronco adventure with me, I hope everyone is having a good time!

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M

Last edited by 96bronco; 01-09-2019 at 11:15 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #23 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 09:35 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Intro to Next Evolution of the Bronco

I had planned on continuing with body armor posts. So much to still talk about there; sliders, rear bumper, lights, winch, batteries, oh the upgrades we can chat about.

Don't worry we will come back to all of that, plenty of days left in the month.

Instead, I am going to shift gears a little bit and tell you a story that will lead into the next evolution of the Bronco. Some of you know my son and I have been super active in the Boys Scouts of America. We are both Eagle Scouts and I have volunteered in my son's troops for years and years. Despite my protests, my son continues to grow up. He has aged out and is off to college. My whole life I have always had this desire to help people and give back. Scouting was a great outlet for that but I have been missing it lately.

Recently I had a friend who was out wheeling his truck and ended up rolling it. We all know that 4wheeling takes you off the beaten path and if you run into problems it can be tricky getting assistance. This is where Colorado4x4Rescue comes in. Its a non-profit organization that assists the 4wheeling community in rescue and recovery on the backroads of Colorado. There is never a fee associated with rescue. This is where my rollover friend turned to help get his truck out. Ironically I also have another friend who I have ice climbed and hiked with for years and years who happens to be on the Board of Directors for Colorado4x4Rescue. He invited to do a ride-a-long on this recovery.

The truck rolled 1 1/4 times


Truck back on its wheels and rerigging for the pull up the hill.


Mid Recovery. we had to pull the entire truck up sideways for a bit to get it in line with the drainage cut we would use to pull it straight out on.


Safety First. I was impressed with the level of professionalism from everyone. Here we are beginning the pull.


The truck is nearly out now


The slope we pulled the truck up. Pictures always seem to flatten things out. Trust me it was pretty steep.


Back on the road, we had to turn it around first for a dead pull to a safer area


Getting ready to do a dead pull out.


After we got the truck to a safe spot the team got to work getting it running again. It drove out on its own power. FORD tough!

The approach to get to the truck has some fun obsticals. This spot was dubbed the Ice Pit of Doom


Inside perspective:

Ok, so why am I sharing a post with not a single Bronco in it. Even worse it had mainly Jeeps. Great question, I am glad you asked. Participating in this rescue was not just a lot of fun, it was rewarding. I chatted with my climbing buddy about the organization, its mission, its core values and it all clicked for me. This was the perfect way for me to bring a lot of things important to me together. I could help people, I could get outdoors (my most favorite place), I could put the Bronco to use, I could spend time with my friends, even make new ones.



So I have paid my dues and joined up! I still have a lot of work to do before I can take the Bronco out on a rescue. They have minimum vehicle requirements, training that I need to take, gear that I need to make sure I have, etc, etc. But its the story of where the Bronco is going next!

Thanks for tagging along on this rescue!

Oh, and here is a Bronco pic to ensure this post is relevant..lol

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M

Last edited by 96bronco; 01-10-2019 at 09:50 AM. Reason: spelling and misc changes
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post #24 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 11:34 AM
Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
 
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Smog Me! Part 02 and How this Forum saved my Life

Have I mentioned that this was supposed to be my primary daily driver? My wife did have a car, but she was using it so I really needed this truck to drive around.

And I had piles and piles of parts around the house and in the garage that needed to be installed.

But I could not possibly do this by myself, I had absolutely no experience with that type of stuff. I contacted a few mechanics and either they had no idea how to do it (when it comes to the Smog components) or they did not want to do it. Some would, but for an insanely large amount of money and they did not inspire much confidence anyways.

So I reached out to this forum, and then it is when I can truly say that this forum saved my life. I got lots and lots of advice and as I was starting to barely figure things out on my own luckily a member of this forum, Ziggy, stepped out and told he was going to help me. And thank God that happened. Because I would never ever have been able to do this on my own.

I took a couple of days separated by a few weeks, but we managed (or more like Ziggy did manage) to install all the parts necessary to pass the Smog:

The disassembly began:




A nice view of the previous intake before taking it off. Notice the mark on the distributor we put so it'd be easier to install back later:


And out of the way:


Removing the old intake gasket, you have to be careful it does not go in the engine:


Putting the new pan valley gasket and the proper RTV:



And the correct EGR intake in place:



The EGR valve has a series of bushings and washers and you have to consult the service manual to figure out the right setting. We kind of eyeballed it, and used a washer #272 only on the inlet orifice and nothing on the outlet.


Carburetor in place after adjusting according to specs:



Routed all the vacuum hoses according to my diagram:


Here is a picture of my custom made bracket for my vacuum amplifier attached to one of the intake manifold bolts.


And finally! we started it up! I could not believe how much smoother it sounded after all this. A great reward after all the research and hard work!


Ziggy also helped me to set the right timing and the right idle. It was out about 30* to 40* to the ATDC side, had to pull the dizzy and re-clock it so we could set the timing correctly.

But I still had to replace the exhaust headers and all the exhaust pipes to make it a single instead of a double configuration. For that, I turned to Walker's website.

On exhaust Systems, you can select by Year, Make and Model. They do not have a 1978 Bronco but they do have a 1978 F150 which seemed to be very close to the original Bronco configuration.



I knew I did not need a CAT so I only ordered a Muffler from them. And I ordered the 22000 Quiet-Flow. Pretty affordable and really similar to stock.

Once I got it, I drove to an exhaust shop and had them route the new pipes, install the muffler and replace the headers for the stock exhaust manifolds. I wish I had a picture of the resulting exhaust configuration, but the guys already had the truck on the floor when I got there and it was really hard to capture it that way.

I was then ready to take it for a Smog test! And just in case I was armed with all the MOTOR and MITCHELL books I had been compiling in order to prove, if needed, that my configuration was correct.

I went to a Smog shop that the muffler guy recommended and everything went really smoothly. Although for some reason, these guys do not seem to like to test these old vehicles if they see they are going to pass easily. Apparently, some of these shops might lose their STAR certification if they pass too many old vehicles, or at least this is what the guy told me, but maybe he was just cranky hahaha

What matters is that I passed on the first try and the results were great!


I have never been happier in the whole process with this truck than at that moment. I passed the Smog and I could finally register Bruce in California and drive it around!! Such an amazing moment!

At home sharing the news with my wife... I would have been in trouble if I wouldn’t succeed that day…


But it was during this process that Ziggy told me that I still had a lot of work ahead of me and that a lot of things needed to be taken care of. Once again, I had no idea that it was going to be that much, but I thought that nothing would stop me from moving forward. I really loved this truck despite all the hiccups and wanted to fix it as much as I could.

And it was then that the build began. More coming up! Thank you for being part of this amazing Forum!

1978 Ford Bronco XLT

Everything in the 70's was so much better!

Visit my built thread here!

Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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post #25 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 08:22 PM
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Just for fun

Hey y'all. its been a day. This is as close as I get to social media (hence the name Quietman) So I figured I would write a thank you note for the mods I have gotten off here and I apologize up front if I forget to credit someone. This forum has been a big help and made this Bronco really part of the family. It has my son's initials in the pinstripes, the expedition console idea off here has made this a much more comfortable ride with a console high enough to support arms, big enough to hide arms and still have room for all the gauges and CB.

These south GA summers get a bit warmish so any help we can get in the AC department helps. The explorer heater valve mod made a 10 degree difference in duct temps. In tuning I learned to relocate my IAT to the tube since it reflected a truer temp. I got help on fixing my overhead console (arco777) and was able to help another with the capacitor and that fixed their console. Its nice to pay it forward and help.

The HD headlight harness, reprogramming a PSOM...what the heck is a PSOM....you can find it here (Steve83 ...gone but still helping out) the fuel pump access panel (jfritts), punisher valve body install (dmanic), painting with monstaliner,(mrbollero) I did these but I didn't take tons of pictures since I wasn't building this except for me and my family. I thank Miesk5 for nominting me. I figured I would never need to show this thing off.....its big, loud, politically incorrect so its a lot like me

So if you are new here, if you are planning on Moab or if you just like fixing your Bronco to suit you, then this is the place for you. I thank all of you who help keep these great trucks running. The AWANA class I teach on Wednesday night is 3rd thru 5th grade boys and last year at our first class, one of the kids asked about a big black jeep/truck looking thing in the church parking lot. I said you mean a Bronco? His reply was," What's a Bronco?" Its my class so we went outside to the parking lot and I introduced them to a Bronco and they used words like cool and awesome. Then they asked where could they get one?


I posted the thumbnails this evening of some of these mods and some of the places it has taken my family. I just spent the last hour swapping in the new siemens 60's. I will finish it up Saturday and post the results. Have a good evening
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post #26 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 06:54 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Let There be Light..


Teaser shot of the rear bumper, I can't wait to talk about it..


Let us finish the front first,

When I was doing all the light work you will see in this post, it was honestly driven more by the fact that the bumper came with lights, combined with the fact that the grill guard had some ugly holes that needed to be filled, not by a real need for all the extra lumens. Fastfoward to today I am glad to have them. A part I glossed over on the 4x4Rescue was that it was actually done in two trips. The first was late in the day stretching well into the night where safely only allowed for getting the truck back on its wheels. All the recovery vehicles have auxiliary lighting to keep the recovery site well lit and as safe as possible. A large percentage of rescues occur at night, so these will come in very handy.

Let’s get back to that bumper. We left off with it all cleaned up and mounted. I had scored some used KC lights off of Craigslist. Novice me thought “This should be pretty easy. Run some power to them and flip the switch right?”

Let the Bronco education continue grasshopper..

Recap the lights that I had with the bumper grill combo
2- PIAA fog lights built into the Broncoair bumper
2-KC spots: on the grill guard
2-KC floods: also on the grill guard

The PIAAs came with just the light fixtures. The KC's came with a wiring harness and the in-cab switches. I didn’t do enough close inspection when I picked up the KC stuff. When I got to this point and took a closer look I could easily tell that it had been overheated at some point. Look at the yellow wire:


I know I have said I am a bargain hunter at heart and loath paying full price for anything. This was an exception to this. I have WAY too much time, energy, and $ into my truck, not to mention the sentimental value. to risk installing crappy wiring. So I spend a few bucks on these from KC. At this point, I was a wiring novice and chose not to risk it. Instead, this seemed like a good solution for me.


The first step for us was to find a way to run the switch wiring through the firewall. Instructions suggest running it under the trim on a door. At that time, I had 3 sets of wires to run, so I was looking for other options. We found this little hole that suited our needs:


It comes in near the brake pedal on the interior: Here


Does everyone have a crappy, blurry, sideways pic that they post? Here is mine, Lol
We mounted the relays near the solenoid. Not much room when you are trying to fit 3 of them


We ran the light wiring near the fender and sort of under the battery tray. Then along the front cross member and up to each light. Here are all the plugs staged where the lights will go. KC sure didn't give us any extra wire to play with, but we made it work with the wiring on the new male adapter I would need.


All the KC lights were previously hardwired straight in. I wanted to be able to disconnect them for when I needed to drop the front bumper. We still have a winch to install!!
The wiring harnesses came with these female connectors but no matching male ends.


They seem to be specific to KC as no local shops had seen them before. I emailed KC support and was able to get the matching adapters from KC.


Nice, clean and easy to disconnect for removal of the lights or the bumper.


Wiring mess around the battery:


Wiring mess up on the firewall:


Firewall all cleaned up:

Battery area all cleaned up:


A few of the bulbs were burned out so I ordered all new 130W ones. Ouch $.


A few shots of them all in action






With all 6 on it sure put a load on the battery\alternator..:) You are probably wondering if there is an upgrade post coming on this?

You guys are so smart, why yes there is!

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M
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post #27 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 04:39 AM
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nothing is perfect

Well Good Morning,

Its 0416 here and I have been up since 0300 trying to troubleshoot the injector trouble.


I figured I would take a break. Here is the issue, (besides the fact that I cannot leave well enough alone) Bronco was running fine below 4k. At 4k my injector pulse widths went crazy. The injector size for my engine was originally 36# really 37.14 but I got a set of 36#'s. I didn't know much about injectors because up until then I had built carbureted engines. I have learned tons since....like unless it says Bosch on the injector its a Chinese knockoff that will stick open during initial startup and wash a cylinder down. I sent those back.

Since people with Mustangs tune more than most of us do, I spoke with a few folks that are real smart on the subject and as I have stated before one was a complete turd but the rest have been real helpful so with a recommendation that I get a set of Ford Racing 30#'s and up my pressure to 50psi with the vacuum line removed for the initial setting. I did and if you review my posts, I really enjoyed driving it for the first time in months. I had good throttle response and would manage 10-11mpg on the highway at 65mph.

So why in the dickens would I mess with this and try the 60#'s??? Because like most of us on this forum, we like to tinker and our Broncos are our Prozac, crack, stress relief …..whatever you want to call it. I like solving problems and improving things. I reviewed my datalogs and after talking with others who run the 60#'s that seemed like the answer. Maybe it will turn out to be an improvement but I have to solve the problem first. I also found out what a Noid is for testing fuel injectors, thanks Steve Through trial and error (more error) I have found and installed stuff that just further adds memories and makes this more of a family affair.

So here is where I am at. I will fix this issue. I also have to fix my other car today that has oil seeping thru the intake gasket into the coolant stream. Its an older supercharged Regal that I tweaked on. its a sleeper

Just part of the day in the life of a longtime Bronco owner. Wish me luck.
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post #28 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 08:47 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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What a Winch.



A little history. Ever since getting the bumper I always had plans of getting a winch. Problem is they cost so much $. I have been watching Craig's list for a long time but the only things the ever came up where the heep owners selling 9K and under winches. I had my mind set on 12K. no one wants to part with those I guess.

I tackled getting the M15000 ready to go.


Buddy of mine told me about an old 15K he had that needed lots of work. It's been sitting in the basement for a while. On and off over the past few months, my son has been getting it cleaned up and repaired.

I was finally ready to install..

Seems like I just got this monster on, only to have to take it back off. At least undoing the lights was super easy...lol


The bumper is really not made from a winch this big but I did read in an old post that Chris was able to squeeze one in, so I took my chances. It could not be any tighter, in fact, I had to shave off the side of the solenoid cover in order to get it to fit.


Here it is all tucked away inside the bumper. Plus is that there is no way anyone is getting it out without dropping the bumper again.

-After all of the above is figured out I need to spool the synthetic line I have for it.

I got the fare lead installed:


Warn does recommend putting the two bottom bolts in, so I need to find some time to re-drill those holes so they line up. I also found the newer wireless controller should fit nicely under the brush guard (waiting for funds) and won't have to modify my brush guard.

wireless controller


Stock photo

And here it is installed:

You can see why I needed it. It is very tight in there with the brush guard on top of the bumper. Seems to work great too.

Another piece to the Bronco puzzle


The bottom winch bolt holes didn't line up with the slots I had on my bumper so I had to drill them out and Dremel the sides smooth. It doesn't look like much but taking this monster off the front of the truck is getting old. Plus having to drill out the extra 1/4" inch was not fun.


While I had it off the truck I did the pre-wiring for the in-cab controller. Used my voltmeter to find the right solenoid. Green\red wire is "In". Black is "out", whites are ground of course.




My son hand spooling the first few turns on the drum



looking good



Hooked the Bronco up to the Durango so the rest of the spooling was under tension. No crap about my Durango, well you can give it to me but I won't listen.. I love both it and my Bronco.



Slowing spooling the line.


All wound up. :)


After spooling the winch line I was a little concerned with snow and road grime making it a mess. Actually most concerned with the UV light on the synthetic line.

My brush guard hides most of the winch but it is still slightly exposed. Warn wants like $50-$100 for a winch cover and the ones they sell won't fit my winch. They are designed to sit over the top of the entire winch. I don't have enough room on the sides to allow for this setup.

I decided to make my own out of some old snow pants. I took some craft paper and measured out what I wanted and then used it as a template to cut out the shape from one of the legs.

Here you can see the top of it.


Here is the back side with velcro sewed all around the edges. Note I left one spot empty near the clutch so I can slip a finger under there and lift it up easily.


Here is the winch still uncovered with the velcro around the edges.


Here is the cover completely installed. I treated it with some waterproofing spray I have for some other outdoor gear. It worked out really well and has stood up to time and weather.


The front of the truck is pretty well set up, what about the back and the sides. Patience my friends. Tomorrow!

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M
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post #29 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 08:19 AM
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MAF Conversion

Good Morning,

While I am stuck on this injector swap and I slept in, I figured I would post some more lessons learned. I have heard it said that wisdom is learning from the mistakes of others so while I am short on wisdom, I offer some mistakes and lessons learned for the rest of you contemplating this swap. I hope it makes it easier for you.

I did this swap on my carport in March of 17. I had researched and researched and researched. Its always a time vs money equation for me. I visited the local junkyards to see if I could find a MAF truck but computer and all was a unicorn. I had read about fiveology and Brian is great for support but everything is a compromise. I bought the Stage 2 kit and the K&N CAI all from Fiveology and while it was pricey, it came with everything. The computer, overlay harness and CAI covered pretty much everything.


Why switch from SD to MAF?? I dunno…..why do some people carry a 9mm vs .45? I don't get into that debate either. So here goes. Here is a screen shot of the kit. It is a C&L MAF sensor, so take that for what its worth. I believe Pro-M is better but that's down the road for me and my budget. The injectors are Bosch clones and I covered that in another post. This was just a MAF swap and I kept my stock injectors this time but I knew I was going to swap a stroker in later and I would only need to swap injectors and MAF tube then.



First, if you are going to be sent to foreign lands by Uncle Sam for awhile please ensure someone drives your bronco frequently so when you do get back, the rats won't have used your engine for a condo.


Second, read and re-read and if your like me, re-re-read the instructions. I have them in .pdf but here is screenshot.


Third, build a shop so then you won't have to do this swap on a carport, driveway, or anywhere else it gets to dang cold or hot while fighting fire ants, mosquitoes or curious dogs (driveway)


Fourth go slow and deliberate when re-pinning the harness. The instructions are very clear and are simple enough for an old Army grunt to figure out. The cover on the harness is OLD and BRITTLE so when you drill out the new holes in it, go slow. I did this on the aforementioned locations with a battery operated drill **** LESSON LEARNED..hence the SHOP!!! it worked but I wouldn't advise it


Fifth, It took me 2 6 hours days to do this swap. I used the K&N oiled for over a year but it can and does get oil on the MAF sensor so mine is dry now. I am sure it was my fault when I cleaned and oiled it after my engine swap. Cuz K&N says it never happens.


Sixth, relocate your IAT if you want. Its not necessary but if your gonna tune it does make for a cleaner tune I think.


Finally, the results were a slight increase in MPG over my SD setup on my stock motor. I didn't feel any significant HP changes but my butt dyno isn't accurate. A MAF does make it easier to modify and engine. I swapped to 36# injectors and a calibrated MAF tube but since then I have replaced the injectors and actually used a 24# MAF tube because if you gonna tune, the MAF sensor 1-5VDC signal can be manipulated to suit your engine.

If you need or want more info, PM me. Good Luck if your gonna do this. There is nothing wrong with an SD engine but we tinker. Have a great day.
Attached Images
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Last edited by thequietman; 01-13-2019 at 01:38 PM. Reason: pictures disappeared
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post #30 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 08:20 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Getting Rear Ended is a Good Thing?

Yesterday I helped my very best friend of 25 years lay his father to rest. He was a veteran, father, husband, grandfather and generally just an all-around amazing man. He lived a long full life and will be missed greatly.


Rest in Peace Max.

One thing struck me as I was sitting through the services, he and my friend had such an amazing relationship. There were literally hundreds and hundreds of photos of them out hunting, camping, fishing, 4wheeling, vacationing, etc.

It made me appreciate the time I have already spent with my family creating similar memories and I am going to ensure I don't ever miss an opportunity in the future. You all know that the Bronco is at the heart of this, especially with my son. Memories wrenching on it, planning the next upgrade, teaching him how to drive in it, and someday handing him the keys and saying "it's yours now, go make some memories with your kids."

Thanks for indulging me on recognizing a great man. Let's talk about how getting rear-ended can be a good thing.

My son was driving the Bronco to school on a snowy Colorado morning and he was sitting at a red light. In the rearview mirror, he watched another student coming up on him hot. Thinking "I don't know if he is going to be able to stop". Sure enough, CRASH, the other student slammed into the back of the Bronco.

The damage to the Bronco was actually not terrible. The rear bumper go tweaked so the corner bent upward and it smacked the rear quarter panel enough to need some attention. I was honestly shocked at where the insurance estimate came in at. With this new fairly large number, we figured we now had two options, use the insurance money to replace the bumper and fix the body damage back to stock. Or, we could do the bodywork and paint ourselves and save enough money to get a custom rear bumper.

No brainer right?!

I had been researching rear bumpers for years and years. Unlike the front bumper, I and yet to see one I really liked. I stumbled on a local fabricator who was just getting started and he and hit it off. We are still friends today. He and I sketched out a design and he agreed to do the work for the insurance money.

Spare tire carrier and stock bumper off.


Tow hitch and recovery points.


All tucked up nice and tight.






















Interior support


All welded and grinded





Spare tire rack:





Latch and locking pin all set up.


One thing I always thought Ford missed the boat on was not providing the ability to lock open the spare tire carrier. We fixed that on my bumper.


It locks at both 90 degrees and 180..


Beveled edge so the pin automatically slides into lock position when its opened.


Some of the structural support of the bumper.


Beefy around the spindle


We think it turned out amazing and we are so happy with all of it. Tomorrow we will get into all the goodies that come along with it...




Thanks for reading!!


1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M

Last edited by 96bronco; 01-14-2019 at 08:35 AM. Reason: add photo
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post #31 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 11:21 AM
Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
 
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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The Build Starts! Drivetrain

Hope you guys had a great weekend. Unfortunately, life keeps getting in the way and I have had no time to post anything recently.

Let’s see where did I leave off… So I passed the Smog and the build began!


And now I had a rough list of things that needed to be taken care of:

DRIVETRAIN
-Rebuild Front and rear axles
-Rebuild front and rear driveshafts
-Repair leak in Transfer Case

BRAKES
-Bleed old fluid
-Install new Master Cylinder, existing is leaking
-Install new callipers, extended line due to lift and rotors at the front
-Install new drums, extended line due to lift and hardware at the rear.

STEERING
-Install a Saginaw Pump
-Install a rebuilt Redhead gear box
-Fix rag joint.
-Fix links and replace bushings.

SUSPENSION
-Replace all Shocks
-Replace Body Mount Bushings

REPAIR LEAKS
-Leak that is been happening in the transmission where it meets the engine
-Leak on Oil pan
-Water coming from the exhaust. Most likely leak of water in the engine.

FUEL SYSTEM
-Fix/Replace fuel lines
-Fix/Replace tank and sending unit

OTHER IMPROVEMENTS
-Upgrading Alternator to 3G
-Upgrading Water pump to high flow.
-Installing a better Windshield washer fluid/radiator combo overflow tank
-Reinstalling stock AC, most of the components were missing.
-Install new radio and speakers. PO ripped off everything, leaving holes everywhere.

COSMETICS
-Repaint the whole truck. Ideally a two-tone (Blue/White) and install the racetrack moldings.
-Install new weatherstripping
-Replace windshield, existing is cracked
-Replace rear left quarter glass, existing is cracked
-Install sound dampening
-Install new carpet
-Restore door panels
-Restore dash and cluster
-Reupholster front bench, restore rear
-Restore rear quarter panels

A long list, and unfortunately it would grow even longer but that will come later.

My intention has always been to restore it as close as possible to the original, with a few upgrades to make driving and handling it a little safer.

I couldn’t afford to do a frame off restoration, and due to budget and time restrictions, I was tackling the most important stuff first such as the Drivetrain which I was having some issues.


DRIVESHAFT

I had to fix that annoying noise which turned out to be the rear driveshaft. It was very nasty in there, took me a long time to remove all the crap:



And this is the reason for the loud noise I was having, the centering yoke was completely busted, the needle bearings were all over and the little spring was smashed in half:


This is the driveshaft finally back in place after the Yoke and U-joints were replaced:




FRONT AND REAR AXLES

I can not remember how many times I disassembled and reassembled them… every time something else would come up. Long story short, I end up replacing them both. Both rear and front had worn out, rusted and busted gears and the front axles were incorrect.

The gears at the front axle were severely rusted and pitted and after replacing the oil it all started pouring out of the sides because the internal seals were shot.

I truly believe it was a miracle this thing drove a 1,000 miles from Idaho to California and I must have some angels looking over me.

Incorrect front axle:


Here is the correct one (thanks to Ziggy!) already in place:


But unfortunately, the whole assembly had to be replaced. This is the differential right before starting all the process:


After removing the hubs, brake disks and so on:



Removing some of the bolts holding the link was a pain:


Especially this one, which we had no other option than to cut.:


Removing the shock was probably the easiest, a couple of bolts and a few washers on each side. It was totally worn out.


Loosening the bolts holding the differential bracket:


Out with the old:


In with the new. You really need two people for the job. This thing is really heavy and it kept wanting to fall. Small adjustments on the jack until we got it close enough in position. Then tighten both sides at the same time and in a cross pattern.


Differential back in place, rod link back in place and the old drag bar back in place (didn't replace that).


Almost there, only left to bolt the calliper mounting bracket and installing the callipers.


All done, here is a picture of before and after:




Time to tackle the rear. After removing the 3rd member from the rear axle we noticed the gears were pitted because of the rust and there was quite a lot of misalignment which caused a lot of play and probably that humming noise.



Ziggy found an 9" differential shell out of an 80-something Ford van, which is basically the same for 78's. He cleaned it and took it to a guy who rebuild the gears and we ventured on installing it onto Bruce.


We also detected the wedges at the rear axle were in bad shape, what we didn't expect is that they were actually completely broken, another accident waiting to happen:


So to be on the safe side, we replaced the axle, rebuilt the gears, replaced the wedges and U-joints. This would ensure a safe ride. The process went smoothly, except when trying to remove the old U-Joints. The PO must have glued the nuts because they were not coming out. The only solution was to cut them:


Out with the old:


In with the new:


And the new 3rd member:


The restored differential installed:




Once it was all done I took Bruce to a shop for a professional alignment. I was lucky I found this cool old shop close by and the guys were really nice they let me stay and take pictures:



These are the results of the alignment. Everything was within normal ranges now except for camber and caster. Unfortunately, there is no adjustment for that on these old trucks but it is not that bad anyway.



Drivetrain restoration was a success! It did take a long time tho, several long weekends and long hours, which I would have never been able to accomplish without Ziggy’s help. Thank you Ziggy!

This is it for now! Until next post! Thank you for reading! Sorry 96Bronco for your best friend's father passing and good luck with the injectors issue thequietman!

1978 Ford Bronco XLT

Everything in the 70's was so much better!

Visit my built thread here!

Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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post #32 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 03:58 PM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Over Engineering..its a way of life!

I am in the mood for a 2 a day post today.

I am also just pretty excited to finally share the project I was working on a couple weekends ago. Now that you have the history behind my rear bumper and the story behind Colorado4x4Rescue I can share this mod.

Some of the most basic requirements to do a recovery are shovels. Pretty simple right? Throw one in the back and be done. Hold on there partner, not so fast.

Why pass up an opportunity to modify your Bronco! (especially if you can over-engineer that mod)

I actually used to just toss my shovel in the back and it would bounce around and take up space. No big deal until I really go looking at the gear I would be bringing and realized I would need all the space I could get. I started looking the truck over trying to find a decent place to mount one.

I finally settled on something like this. Just a shovel laying there as an idea:


I ran the above picture by my welding buddy and he said "oh yeah we can make something work there."

I bought the Smittybuilt 2 tool holder designed for a roof rack and this is what we came up with. It angles back towards the spare to give enough room for the shovel blades to clear the back window. Its also high enough to still allow for the handyman jack to come out.


Smittybuilt has a decent design but it has some flaws. Mainly that it required two people (or someone with an extra arm) to operate. There is no way you can hold two tools in place and align the compression plate and then screw on the wingnuts.


I had to heavily modify these rubber handle tie downs to get them to work. They were way too thick to fit with the compression plate, so I cut them down. This took away all the structural integrity of them, so I cut and glued some sheet metal onto the back side. Then the handles of the tools I have were too thick, so I cut Dremmeled out the interior until they fit.


Here they are attached to the plate.


The idea is that they hold the tools in place while I get the compression plate on. The plate is what keeps them securely fastened to the truck.


They do block my view a little more, but I don't intend to run them all the time, only when I go out on a recovery or wheeling. The entire attachment point is hidden behind the spare when they are off.


You can run any tool combo you want but I find these the most useful for me:


Anyway, I was pretty pleased with how it all came together. It will be great to have a little extra room in the back and one less thing rattling around.


1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M
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post #33 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 05:55 AM
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Wink

Hi All, I'm back, got out early for "good behavior"

This looks like a GREAT month with just three contestants and already so many pictures and videos but, if I remember correctly we all want MORE !!!

Lets keep this party going and show these contestants how much we appreciate their pictures, stories, videos, etc., by giving them plenty of well deserved VOTES !!!

Thanks,
Allcruisen



VOTE For FOTM !!!

"DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR"
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post #34 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 08:37 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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All Work and no Play?. Hardly!



We are not always wrenching on the Bronco, we also put it to good use. After that massive rear bumper build, I am ready to get back to some wheeling and getting my son back behind the wheel for some more 4x4 experience.

We left off with him getting used to how the Bronco feels. Things like putting a tire on a rock, getting it off camber, etc.

It's now time to step it up a bit. How about a mixed scenario. Here were have a rocky and very steep descent into a creek crossing. What will my son do?

Does he floor it?

What line will he choose?

Will he make it out the other side?

Oh, the stress and anxiety.

Ok, ok, enough fake drama,

Here is the video.
You can see at the very end of the video (as we exit that stream) that it prevented the “official vehicle of Colorado” aka the Subaru from crossing. LOL Sometimes there is just no replacement for the Bronco.

As for my Subaru comment. Its ok I think I can poke fun at them because I have one. It’s a hand me college car for my kids and actually suites its purpose quite well.

This hill climb is steeper than it appears. I get a little frustrated with pictures and videos because they never seem to be able to show it.

I thought he did a really good job of picking his line and not spinning the tires.


starting up the same hill from outside


a few action shots:









After just a couple of outings my son is really getting the hang of 4 wheeling. He seems to be a natural at it. I might have one or two more posts with him behind the wheel.

Are you guys feel like reading a 2 a day post again?

I might be down for that, stay tuned this afternoon...

Happy Bronco-ing

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M
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post #35 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 01:36 PM
Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
 
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Bronco Info: 1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT 400 V8 6.6L
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Some Cosmetic Repairs

Before I keep on going with the build and other stuff, I wanted to show you a few cosmetic restorations that I did. Most of them are still a work in progress since they are quite challenging and there has been quite a lot of R&D and lots of trials and errors.


Door panels

My blue door panels were cracked everywhere. You can find replacements for those but the vinyl woodgrain panel that goes over it, nobody makes reproductions. Luckily mine were in good condition except for the chrome plating that was peeling away.



So I ordered new blue panels and carefully I removed the woodgrain panels out of the old ones. This was really hard. The first one I managed to remove it without breaking any of the pins but the driver's side, for some reason the pins kept breaking. It is a 40 years old plastic, no matter how careful you are they can easily snap.

But I figured out a way to fix the broken pins. I ordered a threaded nylon rod, a few nuts and washers from McMaster-Carr and decided to plasic/weld them into the panel. To do so, I had to drill a hole into the panel to better secure the new rod in there. And then ended up tapping the panel so the rod would stay in place more firmly.



You just have to be careful not to puncture the vinyl. However, there are two layers of vinyl in there, so you would really have to drill hard to break it. I didn't use a power drill, by the way, I did it by hand just in case :)

To better secure it, I then I applied QBond. This is stronger than the original. Really a great solution. And now I do not have to worry about breaking any pins in the future, I only have to unscrew them.


Here are the parts in case anyone wants to do the same mod:
98831A330 Nylon 6/6 Fully Threaded Rod 8-32 Thread, 2 Feet Long, White
94812A400 Nylon Hex Nut 8-32 Thread Size, Off-White, Packs of 100
90295A414 Nylon Plastic Washer for Number 8 Screw Size, 0.188" ID, 0.5" OD, Off-White, Packs of 50
26955A73 General Purpose Tap for Closed-End Hole Threading, 8-32 Thread Size

Then I made a template out of paper to cut the holes on the new panels:



The thread with the nut in place:


Lastly, I removed all the peeling chrome and at that moment I ended up using a silver Leafing pen from Krylon. Later I would discover a better solution for this, Molotov Liquid Chrome. It is a chrome paint pen that produces the most perfect chrome looking results I have ever tried. And trust me, I tried a lot... Every other pen in the market and spray paints, from Krylon, Rustoleum, Duplicolor...

These are the panels with the provisional Krylon Silver Pen:



A final picture of the finished panel installed in the door:



Steering horn pad

My original Cruise control horn pad was in poor condition as well. The vinyl was peeling in both sides and the chrome plating was also gone. It is almost impossible to find a steering wheel like that in good condition. This is why I decided to restore it.

I managed to completely disassemble the whole unit without breaking it, it was easier than I thought!


I cleaned it all as much as I could. I tried different products to clean the plastic but a combination of a light degreaser and some vinyl conditioner seemed to do the trick.


Do not use Purple Power degreaser on plastic, it seems to fade it. I also tried this "As seen on TV" product called Wipe New that worked really well on the vinyl and rubber.


I tried to find the original woodgrain vinyl but I could not find it everywhere. Then I realized that Dennis Carpenter makes reproductions of the glove compartment and other dash components that have the same vinyl. So I contacted them and they agreed to sell me a few feet!

Installing the vinyl requires practice. My first attempt was a disaster, the second one was better but still not quite there, the third came out perfect. The secret is to not be afraid of having too much excess of vinyl over the piece, use the heat gun thoroughly and use the excess to work better around tight corners. If you pre-cut it to a size similar to the final shape you won't have any excess material to pull from and it won’t stretch enough to wrap it perfectly.



For the chrome, I used the Molotov liquid Chrome but in this case, I poured the paint on*an airbrush*and sprayed it on some of the parts. It works fantastically well!

I am not completely done yet, because I have to put the final strip of vinyl on the horn top part, but it is almost done:






Instrument Cluster lens

My cluster lens was very scratched. For this, I used the Novus Plastic Polish kit which I already had experience with it the past. It is a three-step process of cleaning, scratch removal and polishing. It is very*time consuming but it works if you have patience.

This is how the lens looked before:


This is the process. First, you clean it with water and soap. Then you sand it to basically "erase" the scratches. This will make the surface dull, going from 320 grip up to 1500 to make the surface as smooth as possible.


Then it is just a matter of applying the Novus 3 step process to clean and polish. Magically the lens comes back to life:


Final result:



Rear quarter panels

This is still a work in progress. There were so many holes in them that I had no idea what to do. Unfortunately, it is very hard to find original ones in good shape, so I decided to work with what I had and find a creative solution.




I found out that the 1992-2014 Ford E-series speaker grilles were about the size I needed to cover the bigger holes and had a grain texture similar to the vinyl of the panel. So I got a couple and painted them the same blue color, then I would eventually mount a speaker behind.



The smaller round holes I wasn't sure what to do but I ended up getting a 2 component speaker and the intention is to put the tweeter in that hole. In order to make that grill similar to the other one, I 3D printed a cover and used a cheap plastic grill I found online to match the other one.




This is a mock up of how everything will look like in place:



Dash

The dash had scratches and holes everywhere and I decided to remove it and restore it. I sanded it, filled holes, used a high build primer and more sanding to smooth it all out. I am in the process of repainting it to its original color and clear coated it.




In the process of priming and filling it:


I also wanted to restore the dash and dash pad. Unfortunately, the new blue dash pad I ordered from Dennis Carpenter was not the right color and did not have the metallic shine the original one had. So I went to a paint store and decided to have it custom matched. And these are a few samples of the process, the guy kept tweaking it until it came close to the original:


Aside from the color problem this dash pad did not fit properly in my dash either. I had to enlarge the holes for it to sit properly and one of the nuts came loose and had to address it. But after painting it I sure could not return it.

Here are some pictures of the final dash and dash pad all assembled. By the way I used paint from Automotive Touchup, the color is Bright Dark Blue Metallic M5557A. Which is the color I eventually want to paint the truck.






And everything back in place:





Emblems

Lastly, I also worked on restoring the emblems. The paint was almost gone on the original ones, this is how they looked:



I cleaned them really well first with water and soap and then with lacquer thinner to remove the last bits of old paint, it's safe for the chrome by the way:


I then used Sharpies Oil based paint pens. The red is not the same color as the original one, but I am happy with the result:



A side by side:



And this is it for now, thank you again for reading!

1978 Ford Bronco XLT

Everything in the 70's was so much better!

Visit my built thread here!

Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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post #36 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 02:19 PM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Location: Parker, CO
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Bronco Info: 1996 EB
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Attention to Detail


Ok who checked back in this afternoon to see if there was another Bronco post?

Admit it, you did, or at least I hope you did..

As I hinted at this morning I’m upping my game and trying 2-A-Days.. Let’s see how it goes!

Much like I "may have" over-engineered the tool holder, I also put the same amount of thought into other aspects of the Bronco, including the rear bumper.

Let’s take a look at a few of these details:

Pretty straight forward, but in designing the rear bumper we mounted the Hi-Lift sideways so I could carry a full size one mounted:


In order to get as much ground clearance as possible, the bumper is super tight against the tailgate when its down. I have to remember to not set anything on the bumper and open the tailgate. Hey, maybe I could use it as a can crusher.. haha


Hitch hookups are all hidden under the bumper, wire plug and access holes for safety chains and pin.


Jerry can mount. I did want a single Jerry Can as part of this build. I take the Bronco in some pretty remote places and the assurance that I had enough fuel was comforting. My buddy talked me into the second one, primarily for the overall look, but also to sub it out for a water can. Which I thought was a super good idea. I always seem to have to bring water with me for my unimproved camping adventures



How Jerry can's lock:


The entire spare tire arm Locked open at both 90 and 180 degrees:


CB antenna mounted.


I found these nifty LED lights that are integrated with the bolts that hold the plate on. You can see I have no room for top mounted lights. Even side lights would be a challenge due to the hitch location. Its still daylight in this pic, but I think they work just fine. I have been pulled over before for having just one of the lights out, so not having any seemed like a sure fire way to call attention to myself.



My son doing wiring work for the license plate lights:


May seem silly but, I painted where my hi-lift needs to be mounted to the rack. If it’s off even one hole when the spare tire rack is open in the 90-degree position the tailgate will hit the base of the hi-lift. Those that have been stuck, know it seems like it always happens late in the day, and in the muddiest\worst place possible. The last thing I wanted to do was already be stressed and mis-mount it resulting in messing up my paint.


I also picked up this hi-lift cover. For me, it’s less about protecting the mechanism (I've had this hi-lift for 20yrs unprotected and no problems) but more about keeping the body and paint in good shape. This protects against accidental bumps when mounting and unmounting it.


The original design had the hi-lift bolted on with nuts and washers. I wanted a way to have quick access to it without needing tools. Plus I wanted a way to secure it. This is the solution I came up with.


I drilled a couple of holes at the end of the bolts (which is surprisingly hard to do and keep a straight line). Instead of the washers setup that just got crushed against the hi-lift, I used these plates that wrap around it to secure it better.


I swapped the nuts for big wing nuts that don't require tools. The small padlocks are double duty, they deter the casual thief. I know they won't hold up against someone who really wants them off. More importantly, they keep the wingnuts from coming off if they ever loosen up


That was a nice 2 a day workout.. err Bronco post. I’m feeling pretty good about this Bronco story, how about all of you?

Back at it bright and early tomorrow morning to keep my Bronco Brothers & Sisters fully entertained!!

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M

Last edited by 96bronco; 01-15-2019 at 04:36 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #37 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 05:16 PM
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one little thing

Hey, Sorry I have been gone. Between work and our church's winter Bible conference its been a little hectic. I have to head out in a few but I wanted to say that the Bronco is now running. I went thru the ignition and the fuel system and they all checked out. Its running again.

Here is the saga. The engine was sputtering above 4k, I thought bigger injectors would solve the issue and maybe they will BUT NOT THIS SET OF SIEMENS 60'S


I swapped them in last week and Saturday I tried to start it for some datalogging and tuning. It wouldn't do anything but crank. (I didn't crank it long) I checked spark, fuel and tune...…...all were good but no joy. I did replace my MSD TFI Coil with an OEM coil but that didn't help much. The OHMS for both the primary and secondary across the coil was outta spec.

I was getting kinda angry and on a whim I thought lemme just swap the 30's back in. I did find out that I had enough room to swap the injectors WITHOUT TAKING THE UPPER INTAKE OFF I was getting tired of that. When I finished the swap and reloaded my 30's tune, upped my fuel pressure to 50...It fired right up.

I will be returning these 60's and I am never, ever gonna modify my engine ever again

Sorry its so short, I have to pull security at our Bible Conference tonight. Have a great evening
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post #38 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 11:38 PM
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OK, with just a little over two weeks left for this Contest to be over, lets show these contestants our best, so click and VOTE ! It is GREAT to see such a close race !

Anybody's Trophy this Month...

What a GREAT Month to come back Home...

Thanks to All,
Allcruisen



VOTE For FOTM !!!

"DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR"
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post #39 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 08:41 AM
JULY '16 F.O.T.M.
 
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Posts: 829
Bronco Info: 1996 EB
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Car show? Why not!


Good Morning FSB!
We have done many things with the Bronco; wheeling, camping, hiking, hauling, fixing, etc. But one thing we had never done was be in a car show. The local Bronco Club was going, I am always up for something new, so I called my son and we decided to go.

Its called the KBPI car show and its held at Bandimere Speedway. This is no small show, I think they closed the gates at the 1,000th car. The vast majority of the vehicles there were cars with very few trucks. It was still cool to see the amazing amount of work, creativity, and money that people put into their passion.



I let my son drive the Bronco up on the Jeeps tire. I have to admit I was pretty nervous, but he did awesome!


I love my Bronco Driver Cover.


Posing with his handy work


Not too bad of flex especially since I left the sway bars on.


We ended up having to move locations away from my Jeep prop, so we moved to this trailer.






Just a quick walk around..

Funny sign on the way out of the Speedway


We got lots of compliments on the Bronco and it was a lot of fun.

We will get back to some wrenching this afternoon, stay tuned!

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
Build thread: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=352625
Supermord site: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/26920
July 2016 F.S.O.T.M
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post #40 of 133 (permalink) Old 01-16-2019, 12:20 PM
Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
 
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Bronco Info: 1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT 400 V8 6.6L
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Steering Stories

That looks fun 96Bronco! I wish I had pictures and videos of my Bronco on the trail sharing cool experiences as well, but unfortunately my Bronco isn't finished yet. For starters, the front driveshaft has been out for a while in need for restoration and the whole suspension needs updating as well.

In any case, my intention has always been to restore this Bronco for daily driving usage and some sporadic wheeling which I hope to share when the time comes! And this is why I am not rushing to finish, although these two things are literally the last two items on my list before I do paint, upholstery and the rest of cosmetics. So my experiences are limited to driving it to work or some random errands, and whenever I can I always take my best two helpers Sammy and Pepper with me :




Continuing with the build, I know I already covered the replacement of the rod link and shown the steering alignment done at a shop, but I wanted to walk you through the rest of the steering components in detail so you can see the complete steering restoration we did.


UPPER COLUMN

The upper column felt really loose and it was also misaligned. Very dangerous driving especially on freeways.

I disassembled all the components and carefully took note of where everything was:












This diagram found in the service manual was really helpful as well:



This was my problem, the notch where the hand shift lever sits was completely worn down and when this happens you have to replace the Shift Collar.



So I did order the steering shift collar, the 2 bearings (there is one at the bottom and one at the top, they are both the same) and some other little hardware that was inexpensive just in case I would need it from LMC Truck.

This was also something that ended up working out surprisingly well. Originally this piece of plastic retains the bearing in place at the lower end with some plastic pins that were originally melted to hold the washer and bearing but to replace the bearing you have to break the pins. The only solution was to drill holes and install some small nuts and bolts in there. I can’t remember what size I ended up using but it was something I had laying around the house.






This is the new shift collar, you can tell the difference with the old one. I put a bit of silicone grease to lubricate.







The lever spring was also broken so I ordered a replacement from McMaster Carr (could not find it anywhere else). The closest one I could find was this one.



Cleaned it all and painted it Black Metallic. By the way, do not forget to put this cover plate first otherwise you will have to redo all the assembly afterwards.



When assembling all this, the main challenge is to compress the big spring inside enough to catch the two nuts that hold everything together. I wasn't able at the time to take pictures of the reassembly process because my hands were full but it is pretty much the reverse of disassembly and using that diagram as a guide.


PUMP

I got rid of the old pump with was noisy and was not the original anyways, and I purchased this kit from Wild Horses 4x4 that comes with a Saginaw pump and a bracket.





Eventually, it gave me a bit of trouble because one of the brackets they sent was slightly shorter than it should be and was not aligning with the hole on the engine block.

You can clearly see here how the bolt can't reach the hole because of the WH bracket:


We ended up making one out of steel, the same width as the one WH original sent:


I also had a problem with a belt that would fit properly. The one WH recommends (AutoZone #17540 or Gates #6485MC (w/A/C)) did fit but it is too tight, it really needs a bigger one. Otherwise everytime you replace the belt you would have to remove the pump.


LOWER COLUMN
I ended up replacing mine for a Borgeson lower column. Maybe mine could have been ok replacing some parts, but I just did not want to deal with it. Nothing crazy about installing it. It simply bolts in. You just have to loosen all the nuts really well if you want the coupler sitting on the gearbox shaft properly.




GEARBOX
This one gave me a big scare. You can see in the previous picture the rebuilt unit from Redhead that looks amazing. Putting it in place was not a big issue especially having an extra hand to help. But the problem was getting all the fluid in the system and flushing out any air. We did the traditional method of leaving the cap off and steering side to side with the engine on a bunch of times until the steering was smooth. But when we test drove it, it was extremely stiff, even more than manual steering. But I found a trick online that really helped:

-Jack up the front end
-Remove cap on the pump.
-Turn on the engine
-Turn wheel to one side carefully without reaching the very end.
-Turn off engine
-Wait 5 mins
-Turn on the engine
-Turn the wheel to the other side
-Turn off the engine
-Wait five*minutes again

Repeat this process a bunch of times and it will flush out any air bubbles.

The second issue was that after all this it felt a bit loose, almost too much especially when speeding. So I took it to a steering shop and we could totally see that the pitman arm was loose. They tightened it with an impact wrench but something went wrong and they told me that the nut probably was cross threaded.

The only way to remove the nut was to cut it out, because when something like this happens if you try to remove the nut as is, chances are you will damage more threads.

So I cut it with a Dremel tool and there it was, one thread was gone.




I ordered a new nut and hoped that I could clean it up with a Die. Because otherwise, I would have to send back the unit.

I ordered a Die, which by the way is 7/8 14 in.*And carefully rethreaded and cleaned it. I added a bit of oil to help lubricate the die and carefully went back an forth until it went all the way through. After this process, the new nut would go in really nice. By the way, the socket is 1-5/16”, which is hard to find but a 33mm (more easy to find at an auto parts store) should work too.

I was lucky that the new washer that came with the nut was considerably thinner than the one I previously had, so I figured that if torqued to the right spec the missing thread would be more or less in the middle of the new nut so hopefully, it would be ok. And it actually went well this time and torqued to 175ft lb. (the range is 170-220, but I did not want to push my luck).

I test drove it, and finally, it felt really nice smooth but tight. What a relieve… I still feel a bit uneasy to know that one of the threads in the sector shaft is gone, but if anything happens well I have AAA.

One thing to notice. I installed a dropped pitman arm because I had read somewhere that if you have a 4 inch lift or higher you need it. Well, I do have a 4 inch lift and I do not need it. Drag link and track bar need to be as much parallel to each other as possible and in my case with the dropped pitman arm the drag link would sit too low:



So keep this in mind before you decide to replace yours. With a 4 inch lift, you are right at the cutoff limit where most likely you can still use the stock pitman arm.

That is it for today! Happy Wednesday!

1978 Ford Bronco XLT

Everything in the 70's was so much better!

Visit my built thread here!

Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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