September Full Size of the Month 2019 Vote Here!!! - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
View Poll Results: Vote for your September 2019 Full Size of the Month !!!!!!!
JohnnyBronco86 6 46.15%
NickOille 2 15.38%
not a jeep 1 7.69%
MS88Bronc 4 30.77%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll

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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 01:04 PM
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Bronco Info: 1984 Bronco, 351w, C6, custom np208 based doubler, np208, TTB D44, 9", 5.13's
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Bronco Safari 2016!!!!!
Now this is where I start getting into the carnage that I’m “famous” for
This year we had my fullsize, Tyler’s fullsize, and my buddy Dylan, who borrowed my Bronco last year, had put together his own fullsize.
Our first day we tried to make it to Top of the World. As I was turning off the pavement by Dewy Bridge, there was a loud pop and I noticed my rear tires would spin independently now, but I figured I had just lost my welds on my spider gears, and could probably still make it through the trail. But at the first obstacle, once I put a load on the axle, it started jumping teeth and losing drive to the rear axle



So the rear driveline was pulled and we headed back to camp in front wheel drive. Here is what we found when we got the rear axle apart



Not only had the welds on the spider gears failed, but one of the carrier bearing caps had broken in half, allowing the carrier and ring gear to deflect away from the pinion. This is where I learned, if you have spare parts, BRING THEM. I had an entire spare 9” third member at home, in Nevada. But it was big and heavy and I didn’t think I would need it.
So I had my dad run to my house to pull bearing caps to overnight to me, and we went around town looking for someone who might have parts to get back up and running today. Eventually was able to find an old timer with a personal junkyard of old Fords, and got a spare 3rd member off him for $100. It was already half broken, but had enough parts to get us back together

The next day we went to try Rusty Nail again, after the fuel pump died on it last year



It went pretty smooth up until where Rusty Nail dumps back into Gold Bar Rim. There is a very deceiving ledge to climb right there. I spun tires trying to walk up it, so I gave it a little bump to try and get the rear tire up, and as soon as the rear tires hit, SNAP. Lost drive to the rear driver side tire, so I backed down to a level spot the change the shaft, of which I had a spare of with me. As soon as I got the shaft out I looked down the tube and could see the splines of the shaft twisted off in the carrier, as well as another blown up carrier bearing cap, of which I didn't have another spare. So for the second day in a row the rear driveshaft came off and we had to try to limp back to camp in front wheel drive.





I had to be pulled on a strap for a few obstacles, which went alright until we got to the waterfall on Gold Bar. There wasn't a good angle to winch me up easily, so I got a bit violent and tried to bounce up and promptly broke a front u-joint and took the inner and outer shafts with it
With some fancy winching, we were able to winch my Bronco up the hill so I could change the front shaft, which I had a spare of, and get back to camp in front wheel drive



Once we got it all back together again then next day at camp, the rest of the week went pretty smooth







Carnage pile for the week

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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 08:04 AM
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Location: Chesapeake, VA
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Bronco Info: 91 Bronco 351W E4OD, 6" lift, 35 12.50 Procomp MT2 on 10" wide wheels, Sliders, and custom bumpers
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Its the 10th and we just hit the 2nd page..........
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:57 AM
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Location: SE Michigan
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Bronco Info: 96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, 6" lift, 4.56 gears, 35" GY MT/Rs, front locker, rear LSD, rear disc conversion
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Page 2! lol

After winter was over, and we moved from the rental house we were in to a house that we bought, it was spring and time to drive the Bronco again!

Some of you may remember my old white ’88 Bronco that I bought back in 2016 – I ended up selling that one as I had some unexpected things come up and had a few hefty hospital bills. But, not long before I sold it, I had installed a roof rail system and a cargo basket on the top. When I sold it, I removed the basket but left the rails and crossbars on. Fast-forward a while to when I bought this ’96……I wanted to do the same. On my first one, I had bought a set of Chevy Suburban roof rails and trimmed them to fit and it looked pretty good. So one day, I went to the local pick and pull to look for another set – while I was walking around the yard, I spotted a 2001-2005 Chevy Avalanche with roof rails. The thought occurred to me that it might be the right length as it sits and might not need trimming. I measured it and it was the PERFECT length! So I picked it up for $25 and brought it home. Some fresh paint and it looked like new.









So now that they were all pretty and new-looking, I needed to figure out a good mounting method. I wasn’t planning on doing anything like lifting the topper off with the rails, so I didn’t need a ton of reinforcement on the underside of the top, but I did want a secure mount that wouldn’t tear up the fiberglass. I thought that some rubber washers combined with fender washers might be good, and then an “a-ha moment” made me think of those rubber feet that are on the bottom of guitar amps. They are thick rubber and have a washer inside them. Cue Amazon order:



So I set the assembled rails on top to line it up and then mark the hole locations and then drilled them. I then looked underneath and noticed that the holes were near the edge where a small ledge ran lengthwise, so I took a razor blade and re-shaped the rubber on the washer.





Then I liberally applied some marine silicone sealant around each hole in the top and carefully set the rails on and lined up the holes. I squeezed some more sealant in the bolt holes and put the bolts in the hole from the top. The forward-most and aft-most holes were secured with self-tapping screws, as their job is mostly to keep the “feet” straight.





Then I climbed in and installed the rubber washers and nuts – the back ones were easy to tighten with one hand inside and one hand outside. The front ones were a little trickier – good thing I have long arms!





Then the basket got clamped on to the crossbars, and done!





OK, that's it for today, kids! Here's a little teaser for what's coming up next....



MS88Bronc
Don't be fooled by the name,
1996 XL with 5.8L/E4OD/BW1356,
4.56 gears with lockers

-->My Build Thread<--
***GO CHECK OUT THIS MONTH'S FULLSIZE OF THE MONTH COMPETITION HERE!!***
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 02:29 AM
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Bronco Info: 1984 Bronco, 351w, C6, custom np208 based doubler, np208, TTB D44, 9", 5.13's
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Next trail was Rubicon











'Con went pretty good, only broke a hub and had a u-joint start to go out, so that was swapped too. Had to leave one of my buddy's rigs and come back the next weekend with parts, and on that rescue mission I broke my lock-rite in the rear. So I picked up a used nascar "g-force" locker off ebay, basically a Detroit, and stuffed that in a Summit Racing aftermarket 3rd member and threw it under the Bronco
My old radius arms were getting pretty hammered, and I was having a little bit of issue always hanging up on the brackets, so we came up with a new design for the radius arms. Twin tube for strength, and with a sweep in the end to transition smoothly off of when sliding on rocks



And went to ram assist steering. Went cheap with a tiny 1" ram, but it worked out just about perfect with just enough power to keep me from cracking the frame again, while not overwhelming my stock pump or stock tie rod ends

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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 10:35 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,175
Bronco Info: 96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, 6" lift, 4.56 gears, 35" GY MT/Rs, front locker, rear LSD, rear disc conversion
iTrader: (4)
Garage
So, next up, as you saw from my teaser pic, was the Saginaw pump and 4-bolt steering gear upgrade. This was one of the upgrades I really wanted to do. So I started looking around for the parts I needed to do this. Then, one day, member @dash_cam put all of it up for sale – almost everything I needed to do it. Now, the stock pump I had was working fine – no whining and provided easy steering, but my steering gear was sloppy, like 3” of steering wheel play sloppy. Dangerous. So, I received the parts and then started gathering up the rest of the parts I needed:







I also picked up some 3/8” oil line, a magnetic oil filter, and an aux transmission oil cooler (no pics). The parts in the pics are Russell 648060 (PS pump fitting), Russell 648010 (Gear high pressure fitting), Russell 648030 and AC Performance female 6AN to 3/8 barb fitting (Gear low pressure fitting and hose barb) and Fragola FRA-372024 braided brake line for the pressure hose.

And it begins – first I rented a pitman arm puller from Auto Zone, but it looked like this and even a 6-pt box end wrench would slip on it:



So, I looked through my tools and found an old two-jaw puller – maybe it’ll work? I oiled up the joints and gave it a try:



I got it as tight as I could on the pitman arm but the end of the bolt was touching the front diff and was starting to deflect sideways – so then out comes the BFH and it popped off:



I used a manual hand pump to get as much fluid out of the stock pump as I could, and I put a drain pan underneath. I then disconnected the lines from the gear:



I removed the belt, unbolted the A/C compressor and set it on top of the engine, and unbolted and removed the stock power steering pump bracket:





And don’t forget…….



Then the steering shaft was removed and out comes the old gear:





The new 4-bolt gear goes in and the pitman arm reconnected:





Oil cooler mounted:



New pump and bracket go back in, A/C compressor mounted, MAF duct re-installed, and the pressure line attached:



Low pressure line attached and is plumbed into the cooler and filter:



And this upgrade is in! So, I still had the front end up in the air, so I filled the pump with ATF, took the oil line to the cooler and a funnel and filled the oil cooler until the hose overflowed, pushed the hose onto the low-P port on the gear, clamped it, turned the key on, and cycled the steering wheel from near-lock to near-lock on the other side about 6 times. I check fluid level, fill it some more, and repeat. I did this until the fluid level was stable. I removed the coil wire, and hit the ignition a couple times to try and move some more fluid around. The level appeared stable, so I reattached the coil wire and started the engine. I let it run for about 30 seconds, turned the wheel back and forth a few times, and turned it off. I checked the fluid and it was still at a good level and had no air bubbles in it, and there were no leaks. I took it for a test drive and wow, what a difference! The pump was quiet, and the steering had significantly less play in it. It wasn't Indy Car tight, but it felt tons better - well maybe..... 1 ton better?

Oh, and I almost forgot to mention, right before I did the Saginaw upgrade, I picked up a “new” air intake duct from @BigBlue 94 and replaced my accordion snorkel duct with this one, that pulls air from the void behind the driver’s side headlight instead of on top of the radiator - a "real" cold air intake:



Installed:



So, what’s next you might ask yourself? Well, it was time to fill this empty space under my grille:



MS88Bronc
Don't be fooled by the name,
1996 XL with 5.8L/E4OD/BW1356,
4.56 gears with lockers

-->My Build Thread<--
***GO CHECK OUT THIS MONTH'S FULLSIZE OF THE MONTH COMPETITION HERE!!***
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 03:35 PM
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Bronco Info: 1985 300ci 6cyl. ZF 5 speed manual. 32" tires. DUI ignition. Holley Sniper EFI.
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Enjoying seeing your builds!

JohnnyBronco and Not a Jeep, we need to hear (see) from you guys!


May 2019 FOTM
March 2016 FOTM

1985 Eddie Bauer Bronco. High Performance 9.1:1 compression 300 (305) I6. Roller Rockers, DUI ignition, Holley Sniper EFI. ZF5. 32" BFG A/T KO2s. 3.55 8.8" rear.
1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
Supermotors Pics
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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 10:49 PM
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Right?
I cant speak for All but,
I am Loving every Minute of seeing

@NickOille and his "Old School" style of wheeling and Mods.
(Makes me wish it was the 70's again)

And seeing @MS88Bronc newest Rig and his Build stories.

Well, lets just say, they are making an "Old Dude" reminisce.


Now if
@JohnnyBronco86 could just find the right page
and post up some of his pics & stories,,,,

And if,
@not a jeep
didn't have to work 60+ hrs a week we might get to see his Rig too,,,,
(that and he's kinda bashful. LoL)

although, I'm still diggin' the Show Guys.
Awesome Job.

Dragon
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 01:37 AM
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Bronco Info: 1984 Bronco, 351w, C6, custom np208 based doubler, np208, TTB D44, 9", 5.13's
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Bronco Safari 2017!!!
Another year of carnage and fun

Rusty Nail






Prichett











Thus far I had managed to keep from blowing any parts up, but on the way down from Moab Rim I managed to kill a front u-joint, which took the ears of the inner shaft and stub shaft with it. Luckily I carry a spare of every shaft





Kane Creek









While I managed to hold my junk together, my buddy Dylan twisted off a sector shaft. With some muffler clamps to hold the tie rod in a straight position we were able to get him clear of the obstacle he broke on and off to the side of the trail while another person in out group ran into town to pick up another steering box

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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 09:20 AM
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Location: Tampa
Posts: 259
Bronco Info: 95 XLT 5.8 E4OD auto xfer/hubs
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Boulder eating dinosaur.
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 10:01 AM
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Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,175
Bronco Info: 96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, 6" lift, 4.56 gears, 35" GY MT/Rs, front locker, rear LSD, rear disc conversion
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OK, it’s winch time. When I bought the Bronco, the ad showed a winch in the bumper, but the ad also made it clear that he would be keeping it. Boo. OK, well I knew I would have to get one at some point. I priced them out, and yikes they are expensive! But from people I have spoken to, the Badland winch from Harbor Freight is pretty good, and more affordable. So I kept an eye out for the sale ads, which happen all the freakin time, but one week I just happened to receive two $100 gift cards from AT&T when I switched over to their internet and DirecTV service. So, when the 12000# winch went on sale for $300, I made a trip to the HF store and picked it up, along with some shackles for the bumpers.

Shackles:



I also found out that when I placed the winch in the mounting spot, the relay box would not be able to be mounted on top of the winch due to the cables coming out of the back of it getting jammed up on the grill. So I needed to figure out something – I also needed to move the winch about an inch forward so that the back of the brake bracket didn’t touch the body panel under the grille.







So, after speaking to a few people to get ideas on what to do, it was decided that I would relocate the relay block and sort of rewire the setup. So to do this, the relay box had to be dug into:





I figured I would mount the relay beside the winch inside the “pocket” where it goes, so I drilled and tapped two holes:



Relay mounted:



Mounted the relay box above it and wired up the plug here for now – I am planning on mounting two control switches in the cab eventually, a single pole single throw for winch power and a single pole double throw for winch in/out (and a power light to indicate power to the winch is on).



Ran the cables and hooked it up to the double battery setup – I had to do some creative wrenching to mount this circuit breaker:



So after all was installed, I checked operation and it works like a charm! Then I applied some silicone sealant around the relay box top and secured the top down – I also put some round plastic grommets in the side where the cables usually come out so that the box is fully waterproof.



And last but not least, a waterproof cover to protect my $100 investment!



So, after all this, I only had one more thing to do before I drove this rig 3.5 hours across the state to the Silver Lake Bronco Takeover – stay tuned folks!


MS88Bronc
Don't be fooled by the name,
1996 XL with 5.8L/E4OD/BW1356,
4.56 gears with lockers

-->My Build Thread<--
***GO CHECK OUT THIS MONTH'S FULLSIZE OF THE MONTH COMPETITION HERE!!***
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 12:39 PM
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Bronco Info: 1984 Bronco, 351w, C6, custom np208 based doubler, np208, TTB D44, 9", 5.13's
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After BS 2017 we took a quick Rubicon trip again







Preparing for Bronco Safari 2018

Picked up some dirt cheap chromoly rear shafts



With the help of a buddy of mine with a machine shop, we took a spare np208 t-case I had and turned it into a doubler

















Tech tip, if you are too poor to pay a driveshaft shop to build you a longer driveshaft, 2 1/2" EMT is the right size to re-tube your stock front driveshat



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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 06:30 PM
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OK, Boys and Girls I know it's only been a little less then two weeks into this Contest and I for one can say I am gonna have a hard time deciding who to VOTE for.

Keep those pics and videos comin' .

Thanks,
Allcruisen

"DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR"
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 10:31 AM
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Location: SE Michigan
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Bronco Info: 96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, 6" lift, 4.56 gears, 35" GY MT/Rs, front locker, rear LSD, rear disc conversion
iTrader: (4)
Garage
After the Saginaw swap and 4-bolt swap, my steering was much improved, but still not quite where I wanted it, as far as play is concerned. I inspected the rag joint and it looked good, as well as the steering shaft joints. The ball joints did not show any slop but there appeared to be a little movement in the drag link joint with the left inner tie rod. So I decided to just replace it all - I ordered the full set of steering linkage from JBG and told them I would pick it up at their warehouse (to save $ on shipping).



It was like 104 heat index on this day, so I assembled the linkage inside in the A/C - hey, 15 minutes less in the heat is still 15 minutes of cool!



So then it was time to suck it up and go sweat for a while. I crawl under the Bronco and start taking some measurements. I measure all the dimensions of the existing steering linkage down to the closest 1/16" and write them all down. Now, I knew I had a bit of toe out, as I could see it from the rear and I confirmed with a string down the side of the tires. So when I installed the new linkage, and since I had a little bit of left bias on the steering wheel, I shortened the right side tie rod sleeve by about 1/8" from what it used to be.

Installed:





I also ordered and installed a SkyJacker 7140 Steering Stabilizer to help dampen the forces from the awful roads around here acting on the 35" tires. The difference is subtle, but there is a difference.



The steering was MUCH better, the steering wheel was more or less straight, and only had a minor amount of play in the wheel. So I stop by for an alignment and get that done. I think we're ready!




JUST KIDDING! One day, driving home from work, I start hearing a knocking noise. Crap. I turn the radio down and listen as I drive. The knocking starts around 5 mph and yields back around 25-30 mph - it is NOT RPM related, but more speed related. So that led me to think about the driveline - there was no specific event that caused this, it just started more or less randomly. So after thinking a bit on it, I figured the issue easiest to fix would be u-joints and CV joint on the driveshaft. So, I stop by O'Reilly's and pick up some parts.





So I pull the driveshaft and evaluate what I have happening here. I don't see any obvious issues, but decide what the hell, I'll just replace everything and reinstall - maybe that will fix it. So I take it all apart - I DID take a paint pen and mark the driveshaft to make sure I reassemble everything the same way, especially since I would be pulling the slip joint apart to lube it.





I get all the u joints out and start to take apart the CV ball assembly. I pry the ball out:



Seems ok at first glance....



Wait - this doesn't look right.





So I try and try to remove this collar piece, but for the life of me I can't get it out. I do a little shopping around and find that JBG has a "kit" that includes an assembled CV yoke with ball and three Spicer u joints for $100 - $25 less than I spent on all of the individual pieces WITHOUT the yoke. So I returned the stuff I bought and got the kit:



So I reassemble everything, lube the slip joint:



And I think I'm in business:



It goes back under the Bronco:





Then I take it for a test drive....and...................SUCCESS! No more knocking noise and all is good. I was so relieved that this fixed the problem - driveshaft issues can be annoying, not to mention that very soon I would be driving the Bronco about 175 miles each way to go the the 5th annual Silver Lake Bronco Takeover on the sand dunes overlooking Lake Michigan.

So that is next folks! Hang in there!



Folks - I'll be back after the weekend to show you all the Bronco Takeover! I'll be at an off-road event all day tomorrow and spending time with the family on Sunday (gotta take care of the family!).



MS88Bronc
Don't be fooled by the name,
1996 XL with 5.8L/E4OD/BW1356,
4.56 gears with lockers

-->My Build Thread<--
***GO CHECK OUT THIS MONTH'S FULLSIZE OF THE MONTH COMPETITION HERE!!***
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 03:53 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Florida
Posts: 26
Bronco Info: 85 Ford Bronco XLT (bullnose) Engine: 351 Windsor V8 5.75 L 4BL OHV 4 Wheel Drive Transmission: 3 s
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Garage
Mid-Life Crisis

This is my version of a mid-life crisis car. As my wife says, better than a girlfriend (probably just as expensive though). For the last 30+ years I had been wanting a third-gen bronco ever since that fateful Christmas 1989 when I came home and found my Dad had put for-sale sign in my '84 XLT. (too many trips to the mechanic)

Here's me circa 1989 with the only pic I have of that'84.



So when one came on the market in my area I snapped it up:







It needed a ton of work inside, but I absolutely had to get rid of the white color. No interest in any association with that "other" white bronco.

Here's is everything I did, or (mostly) had done:

Engine and Interior Work done:

*power wash entire engine compartment and drive-train
*Brake pads replaced
*Water pump replaced
*Steering (rod kit, hubs and rotors, rough country stabilizers, wheel bearings, Radius arms bushing)
*Alignment
*Shocks replaced
*Tune up
*Fuel system (line clean out, tank replaced, fuel pump replaced)
*Replace carburetor
*Replace spark plugs
*Exhaust system upgraded (headers, custom dual exhaust)
*Leaks repaired throughout, compression tested.
*Speedometer replaced
*Thermostat replaced
*New battery
*Throttle replaced
*Located and corrected multiple grounding issues
*new starter solenoid
* Voltage regulator
* Printed circuit board guage w tach
* Sunvisor arm brackets replaced
* Rear view mirror
* Windows: buttons and motors - right and left
* Power locks replaced
* Side view mirrors replaced- Right and left



The carpeting was original, so it had to go:





Found the build sheet in the process!




Looking (and more importantly smelling) good as new!






Then the paint, a Glossy version of Raven Black. The only downside is its too pretty to go mudding. The paint is worth more than the truck:



And finally the finished product.











Questions?? Here are some stats:

85 Ford Bronco XLT (bullnose)
Engine: 351 Windsor V8 5.75 L 4BL OHV* 4 Wheel Drive
Transmission: 3 speed C6 Auto
Components:* Edelbrock carburetor 600 cfm electric choke
Wheels: 35" Maxtrek mud trac tires on 20" American Racing ATX Series Wheels
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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:46 AM
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Location: Nevada
Posts: 396
Bronco Info: 1984 Bronco, 351w, C6, custom np208 based doubler, np208, TTB D44, 9", 5.13's
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Bronco Safari 2018

Cliffhanger








Top of the World





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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 08:09 AM
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Location: Texas
Posts: 5,602
Bronco Info: '95 302 XLT
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Cool

@JohnnyBronco86 Glad to see you figured out how to post Pictures.

Now it's getting very interesting and going to be a Good Month !

If only we could get @not a jeep to join the party, we'll have a full House.

Thanks to all,
Allcruisen

"DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR"
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:27 PM
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Sorry bout the gap in my postings, I'm back at home and ready to join the party!

Picking back up on my story-

After enjoying my bronco for a couple years camping and road tripping up to Yellowstone with the family I accepted a position with my employer that included a new truck and free gas so the bronco sat for several years with minimal mileage put on her. Fast forward a few years and was offered a new position in the Seattle area. If you haven't experienced a summer in Phoenix then you wouldn't understand the allure of 70 degrees where everything is green! So I accepted the job and packed up the kiddo's, two dogs, the cat, a gerbil and goldfish in the bronco and off to Seattle we went for a new adventure.

Here's a pic of the kids and I out exploring the PNW! Yep, saw the puddle and had to get out and skip some rocks, gotta love the simple joys in life!

I took next week off of work so stay tuned for the mods and trails...
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Giving condolence is like masturbation. It feels good for the person doing it - But it does nothing for the person who they are thinking about
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