D44, coil sas for me. - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by zippome View Post
Just a reminder to everyone who is not only doing SAS's but any work on their truck. Make sure that you check the torque on the bolts after they have had some time to settle. I told myself to do it but I always put it off to tomorrow. Well last weekend my girlfriend, dog and myself almost died when the bolt that connected the track bar to the mount fell out when I was driving 70+ down the freeway. I almost completly lost control. I somehow managed to cross 3 lanes of traffic and get to the side of the road without hitting anyone. Other than the fact that someone shit my pants everyone/thing is ok.

I will never make that mistake again!! Always check the torque!!

I put a lock nut on there this time so hopefully that won't loosen up again.
Glad you are ok.

Since you brought this up, let me just say that it is my absolute opinion that if you are using the single bolt down at the axle, this must be properly secured by a castle nut and new cotter pin. I never had much luck with lock nuts down here, and for whatever reason a lock nut up top where there is dual sheer (and likely much less vibe and movement), no problem.

Now imagine cheap rod ends that fail......Always buy the best for RA's and Trackbars.

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post #62 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippome View Post
Just a reminder to everyone who is not only doing SAS's but any work on their truck. Make sure that you check the torque on the bolts after they have had some time to settle. I told myself to do it but I always put it off to tomorrow. Well last weekend my girlfriend, dog and myself almost died when the bolt that connected the track bar to the mount fell out when I was driving 70+ down the freeway. I almost completly lost control. I somehow managed to cross 3 lanes of traffic and get to the side of the road without hitting anyone. Other than the fact that someone shit my pants everyone/thing is ok.

I will never make that mistake again!! Always check the torque!!

I put a lock nut on there this time so hopefully that won't loosen up again.
WOW! Amazing the axle didn't just explode out of the truck. I always use Stover style lock nuts. Even if the bolt/nut do loosen it will never come all the way off the threads.

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post #63 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 10:44 AM
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This same thing happened with mine when I first finished it however it was the end at the axle due to the too small of cotter pin I used temporary til I got a new one and forgot about it, made for a good night aside from the initial scare though




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post #64 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:28 PM
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Glad your ok.

How does it handle/ride on the highway compared to the TTB?

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post #65 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well to tell you the truth one of the reasons that I really wanted to do a SAS was becasue I had beat the hell out of my TTB and it was a hot mess. Just about everything was bent on it. The axle would rub, my driver side tire would would go bald in a few months even though I took it to 4 different shops for an alignment. And it would loosen up all of the time in random spots. So all in all it is about 1000x better now with a straight axle. The only thing that could use some work is the suspention. I went with the cheap rought and you can tell.

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post #66 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 09:34 PM
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The only thing that could use some work is the suspention.

That's kind of the whole thing, isn't it? What specifically about the "suspension" don't you like?

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post #67 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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No the whole thing for me was straight, reliability, easy to work on, and off road capability. I just have the cheapest coils and shocks so it can be a little bouncy. But it is still better than my TTB was.

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post #68 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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I used a bigger TRE then the hole was made for. So I hard to make the hole bigger. Kinda drunk right now, hope that helps.

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post #69 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 01:47 PM
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Why did you have to ream out for the trac bar? And what did you ream exactly

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the ruff stuff track bar is ment for a hiem. so it uses a smaller bolt but it and be fixed with a quick ream
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post #70 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 07:37 PM
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I believe you said that you must use the 78/79 RA mounts? Is that correct or can you use the factory 80-96 mounts.

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post #71 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 11:31 PM
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No the whole thing for me was straight, reliability, easy to work on, and off road capability. I just have the cheapest coils and shocks so it can be a little bouncy. But it is still better than my TTB was.
Makes sense. Are all your joints and bushings tight? Aligned? You have probably already mentioned this but I'm to lazy to read back through.

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post #72 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Burgandy View Post
I believe you said that you must use the 78/79 RA mounts? Is that correct or can you use the factory 80-96 mounts.

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Yes you have to use the 78-79 RA so you can't use the 80-96 ones. there are some custom ones that you can use. If you remember I said that I did mine with the most stock parts as possible. So you can use the stock 78/79 RA mounts but there are others out there.


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Makes sense. Are all your joints and bushings tight? Aligned? You have probably already mentioned this but I'm to lazy to read back through.
I still need to get a "real" alignment. I've done my redneck one but I'm not sure if it is good enough.

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post #73 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by zippome View Post
Yes you have to use the 78-79 RA so you can't use the 80-96 ones. there are some custom ones that you can use. If you remember I said that I did mine with the most stock parts as possible. So you can use the stock 78/79 RA mounts but there are others out there.




I still need to get a "real" alignment. I've done my redneck one but I'm not sure if it is good enough.
not true brother..

there are tons of people on here with the sas and 86-96 ra mounts including myself. you do need a rabushing kit from a newer bronco to make it work
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post #74 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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well then I stand corrected. I knew that they were different sizes so I just thought that they wouldn't work.

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post #75 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 02:00 PM
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well then I stand corrected. I knew that they were different sizes so I just thought that they wouldn't work.
just relized that i sound kike a dick sorry
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post #76 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-21-2013, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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No your good. I'm glad that you got the right info out there.

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post #77 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 05:44 PM
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Neat. I like the simplicity of it.
Now I'm kicking myself for selling my ttb lift. Would be nice to at least have those leaves back

I do still have the crown lines, I'm assuming that's the stainless ones I saw on your truck, they bolt right up to the solid axle calipers and are long enough?


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SAS under construction
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post #78 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Yes. Some people will tell you that you have to grind off the nub on the end of them to make them match up, but you don't have to. All I did was swap sides. I took the drivers side and put it on the passengers side and vise versa. No leaks so far and I can stop on a dime.

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post #79 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Not very good, but here are some pics. These are all of the passenger side.





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post #80 of 104 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 06:33 PM
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I see. I still have them on the truck, trying to decide if I should take them off to be sold or keep for the axle swap eventually. Stupid truck needs a full rebuild.


1990 F150XLTLariat. 300I6. ZF. BDS. 36x16.5x15 FC.
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