D44, coil sas for me. - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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D44, coil sas for me.

So I'm just about done with my SAS and I have failed to make a build thread until now. But better late than never I guess.

First of all I would like to say that I tried to use as many stock parts as I could. Here is my parts list.

Axle - D44 out of a 79 Bronco, 4:56 gearing, eaton locker, new manual locking hubs, and a heavy duty diff cover from ruff stuff.
Brakes - Stock 79
Brake lines - The 88 extended ones from JBG.
Drive shaft - stock 88 that I got extended
upper coil buckets - stock 79
shock towers - stock 85-93 f250
radius arms - stock 79
radius arms brackets - stock 79
track bar - superlift extended 79
track bar mount - ruff stuff
coils - 4" lift 79
shocks - pro comp 16 - 26
tre and drag link - DOM
pitman arm - I used the drop one that I had from when I did my 6" lift.
new steering gear box because I needed one.

Here is a before pic. I had already done a 6" lift with the TTB.


Here is my new to me axle.


I had to bow out at this point, and I took the axle to a shop to have it re-built. I don't have to means of knowledge to do it myself.

So of course the first thing I did was rip everything out!


I didn't take a whole lot of pics so I'm going to apologize for that. After I ripped it all out and cleaned it up I thought that the most important thing to do first would be the coil buckets.

The drivers side was a PITA. I think that was the main thing I learned from all of this was that everything on the drivers side sucks. But like a lot of people I wanted to move the coil buckets forward an inch for better fit with bigger tires. that's the whole reason that I used the 79 coil buckets, you can use the stock 88(or whatever year you have) if you don't want to move them forward. So to move the drivers side forward I had to notch out the bottom and move the bolt locations.


the passenger side went in like a breeze.


After that I got to hang the axle from the coils and then figure out placement for the radius arm brackets.
I decided to use the stock 79 brackets because I'm only planning on doing a 4"-6" lift.


I located the track bar mount just forward of the coil bucket. I didn't take a pic of it yet but you can see the spot that I cleared off for welding.


To install the tre and drag link I had to use a reamer which was fun.
I also had to cut the front part of the cross member and I had to remove the old power steering fluid cooler and put in a new one that I picked up at auto zone for $20. It was actually a tranny cooler but it will work.


I got to make a trip down to Driven Auto to pick up some parts, bronco heaven.


It's on it's own weight right now and I just drove it on the freeway. After doing that I realize that I need to get a steering stabilizer and get a professional alignment. My redneck alignment is just a little bit off.
I also need to switch out the stock D44 yoke with the old TTB one so I can get my drive shaft u-bolt to fit.

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post #2 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 12:19 AM
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About time does this mean you might finally go on a trip with us az guys?


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post #3 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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that is exactly what that means!!!

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post #4 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-16-2013, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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I took it out on the street today so I could take some pics.











Can anyone recommend a good steering stabilizer?

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post #5 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 03:47 PM
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Wow, great build! I like how it isn't totally jacked up like most others. I'm guessing you're running 35"x12.5" right? Also, why did you have to cut the crossmember? Just so you know I will probably be pestering you more and more when i get close to doing mine hahaha.
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post #6 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PVTbronco View Post
Wow, great build! I like how it isn't totally jacked up like most others. I'm guessing you're running 35"x12.5" right? Also, why did you have to cut the crossmember? Just so you know I will probably be pestering you more and more when i get close to doing mine hahaha.
That's fine, pester away. Yes I am running 35"x12.5". And I cut the cross member because otherwise the track bar would of hit it. If you move the axle forward more than I did you can get away with not cutting it. But that is a lot harder than just cutting the cross member.

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post #7 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 04:22 PM
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very nice. How much did it cost excluding the d44? if you don't mind me asking
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post #8 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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well I got all of the stock 79 parts with the axle, so I had to buy

coils and the track bar - $379.47
DOM tre drag link - $389.01
F250 shock towers - $40
all new bushings about - $100
new hardware about - $50
power steering cooler - $20
shocks - $97.02
extended drive shaft - $100
total $1175.50

I think that should be it.

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post #9 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:10 PM
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That looks great. Can you get some measurements for reference on the height. It would be interesting to see how it compares to a standard ttb lift.

Patrick

89 EB Bronco: 302, AOD, 4:56's, Rear Aussie Locked, Front L/S and Warn Hubs, 35" M/T's, 2.5" lift, Custom front and rear bumpers and sliders .

More to come as soon as the bank says ok.
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post #10 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:16 PM
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howd you do your trac bar bracket? pictures of that would be awesome
As for your front yoke, i just used a conversion u joint, works great

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Sig pic too big, too lazy to change.
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post #11 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUBronco View Post
That looks great. Can you get some measurements for reference on the height. It would be interesting to see how it compares to a standard ttb lift.
I had a 6" lift on the front with the TTB. I put a 4" lift on it with the SAS, and it is sitting about 1" lower in the front. That's with all stock 79 upper and lower coil buckets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vannnce View Post
howd you do your trac bar bracket? pictures of that would be awesome
As for your front yoke, i just used a conversion u joint, works great
For the track bar mount I ordered mine from Ruff Stuff. LINK







yeah I was thinking about just using a conversion u-joint as well, but I was thinking that if I happen to be out on a trail somewhere and I break one it would be nice to have a very generic u-joint to make it easy to find a replacement.

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post #12 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 07:42 PM
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Nice clean install, looks good!
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post #13 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I was just trying to make it as simple as I could. I wasn't looking to go crazy with it. I just hated the ttb and had to get rid of it.

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post #14 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 08:40 PM
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Zip your drive shaft should be fine I never got mine extended and were running the same lift


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post #15 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-18-2013, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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cool, thanks

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post #16 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 08:25 PM
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good job man. hit any trails with it yet?

My build-85 Bronco 7.3idi and 1 ton leaf sas-http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206821
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post #17 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks but no trails yet. I still need to swap out the yoke so I can attach my front drive shaft. I have just been busy the last few days. But as soon as I do I'll be going out.

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post #18 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 01:32 PM
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looks good, you made the most of the parts you had and kept your swap very reasonable.

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post #19 of 104 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadofax View Post
looks good, you made the most of the parts you had and kept your swap very reasonable.
Thanks, that's kinda what my plan was. I wanted it to look like it could of come sock that way. And with using a lot of stock parts it will be real easy and cheap to find replacements.

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post #20 of 104 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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A little update. I did end up getting the drive shaft extended at Arizona Driveshaft. They did a great job and it cost me $100. I also decided to not swap out the yoke, all I did was get a stock 1 1/8 u-joint from the 88 and swap out the two caps to 1 1/16. fits perfect and if I do end up breaking one it won't be to hard to replace.

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