Monkey's front bumper - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2008, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Monkey's front bumper

hey, i started on a front bumper today...just a basic setup so that i have jack points at the front corners of the bronco. I just used the metal that i had, which i picked up for free over the last year or so...

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2008, 10:26 PM
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I dont really like the tube

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2008, 10:39 PM
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At least cut the corners off a little and maybe make some rounder corners.

Like the simple look though.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2008, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. its not done yet...i'm gonna make some "wings" that go back towards the front wheels and clean it up some.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-12-2008, 11:55 PM
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Eh..its simple, but works. Are you going to put some plate over the square tubing to clean up the ends. You said about wings? Do you mean youre going to kind of wrap the bumper around the sides of the bronco?

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 12:38 AM
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I'd also hack off the corners at the bottom so the bottom of the plate is flush all the way across. I have a hard time believing it is going to end up looking nice so I don't see the point in continually adding to it. I could be wrong but it's functional the way it is so I'd almost just leave it until I could afford to build one the way I wanted.

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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 03:52 PM
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is the tubing angled back, or it just an illusion?

I would plate over the tubing, and cut off the bottoms of the tubing so its flush with the main part.

Curling it back will do nothing but make it look weaker. It may look nice to people who havent ever built anything, but it wont be of any additional support. Otherwise you can plate that too and you'll have a really nice looking bumper.

Also, I hope thats not where it going to sit. I would have liked it to be more close to the body, and straight. I think thats what a lot of people are seeing, the big gap.

Half of these people dont have the balls to build their own bumpers, so take or leave their comments about it looking nice. If you like it, go for it.

Again, get rid of that gap and at least cut the bottom corners, grind the welds smooth and it will look nice coated.

Also, if you made it for a jack point, rework your corners. Theres not much to jack on.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 04:24 PM
has no skidplate
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh88ford View Post
Half of these people dont have the balls to build their own bumpers,
i'm just too cheap and don't know how to weld

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh88ford View Post
is the tubing angled back, or it just an illusion?

I would plate over the tubing, and cut off the bottoms of the tubing so its flush with the main part.

Curling it back will do nothing but make it look weaker. It may look nice to people who havent ever built anything, but it wont be of any additional support. Otherwise you can plate that too and you'll have a really nice looking bumper.

Also, I hope thats not where it going to sit. I would have liked it to be more close to the body, and straight. I think thats what a lot of people are seeing, the big gap.

Half of these people dont have the balls to build their own bumpers, so take or leave their comments about it looking nice. If you like it, go for it.

Again, get rid of that gap and at least cut the bottom corners, grind the welds smooth and it will look nice coated.

Also, if you made it for a jack point, rework your corners. Theres not much to jack on.
Thanks for the input. yes it is angled back and i ended up not going with the wings. I finished it today and i will try to get pics up. because i was working with scraps that were laying around my yard, this is what i ended up with. total time invested 2 hrs. total cost $0.00.

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 07:05 PM
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Post up some finished pics, maybe it would look better with some paint on it

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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weeelllll....i did a crash test...and now i need to fix it...on one side the weld did not have enough penetration and is split. seeing as i was planning on jacking on the corner it's nice to know where it was weak. it will only take me 15 minutes to fix, so no biggie.

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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well i fixed it.

What broke. if you look at the 4x4 logo, you can see that it is all smashed up. i have another valance sitting in my garage, so no big deal...



here are some pics of it as i am going to leave it. I might get a plastic shield for the gap, but its not a priority right now.






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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 09:26 PM
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sweet..... now you can jack off your bumper

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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 09:50 PM
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eh...as long as you like it.

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Newest token Jeep owner....

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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 10:04 PM
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I dont really like the design but if you intend to abuse it the design will not under any circumstances hold up. You will continue to break that butt weld because it's a bad design. You could slice the tube and slide it over your center bumper section and weld the tube around the center steel. This will only be slightly better but at least you'd stress then entire tube rather than the butt weld. Beyond that keep trying because eventually you'll get better at welding and fabrication. I'd suggest moving the bumper at least 1 inch if not 2 to fill the gap and unless the body is bent straighten out the bumper as well.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 10:23 PM
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I think it looks ugly, but as long as you like it, that's all that counts.



Butte welds are useless, useless, useless. Grind a weld prep on that tubing and either turn the heat up on your welder or get rid of your 110 and buy a good 220 mig or a descent DC welder. If you plan on jacking your truck and relying on welds like the ones you have now I just hope the truck doesn't come crashing down on top of you.

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 12:12 AM
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I vote for a 220 MIG as well. Thats what I made mine out of.

Get some plastic end caps and cap off the ends of the tubing so rain and mud dont pile in there.

How's it mounted to the frame?

What Im wheelin now:
-98 Jeep XJ 4.0L auto- 6.5" RE/Rustys lift+ Custom Y-link Long Arms, 315/75/16 Toyo MTs, 16x8 Moabs, AA SYE, Monotube shocks, 4:10s, Lock-Right in HP 30 and Auburn LS in the 8.25 w/ upgraded shafts, 1 1/4" Rusty's shackles, Magnaflow exhaust, sliders-
www.southeastoffroad.com
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 12:21 AM
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The welder doesnt matter when you consider how thin that tube is, youre asking for a weak weld for this application

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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncofire75 View Post
I vote for a 220 MIG as well. Thats what I made mine out of.
How's it mounted to the frame?
I would like a 220, but finances dont allow for that right now.

it has 4 grade 8 bolts in the stock mounting holes.

the reason the weld failed was because i had forgotten to bevel the sides before i made the weld. i have since tested the bumper for my application, and i was able to jack up on both sides without a problem.

and for the record, i like it...for no reason other than that I made it and i'm proud of that.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by monkey4life View Post

and for the record, i like it...for no reason other than that I made it and i'm proud of that.
Well, thats all that matters then. Nice job just giving you a little advice to maybe make you want to add something or do something differently.

Any future plans for the rear or anything?

What Im wheelin now:
-98 Jeep XJ 4.0L auto- 6.5" RE/Rustys lift+ Custom Y-link Long Arms, 315/75/16 Toyo MTs, 16x8 Moabs, AA SYE, Monotube shocks, 4:10s, Lock-Right in HP 30 and Auburn LS in the 8.25 w/ upgraded shafts, 1 1/4" Rusty's shackles, Magnaflow exhaust, sliders-
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