Molasses project (92) - Page 22 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #421 of 687 (permalink) Old 10-21-2016, 12:48 PM
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This thing is going to be to cool when you finish! Enjoying the journey.
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post #422 of 687 (permalink) Old 10-23-2016, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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I'm still putting together a proper update. In the mean time I have a little fun project i never thought would work.

I wanted to bend a piece of angle aluminum for a grill surround. I have bent angle with a stretcher before, but if you stretch it too much it splits. So I thought I would try the bead roller. Put a piece of 6063 in and rolled a bit.



So far so good. Tighten it a bit and roll some more.



Keep going till I match my template.



It was a little hard to get it to line up at the end. I still have to cut and weld, but I'm pretty happy. Still haven't figured out what screen to "fill" it with. Maybe some "expanded" metal.

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post #423 of 687 (permalink) Old 10-25-2016, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I actually did do some work on this my last break.

My first issue was one of the other members posted a link to a pic of a real HEMTT with the door open. In it, I saw where they had the pedal quadrient was up off the floor. What this does is move the driver forward about 7". It doesn't sound like much, but it solves some other puzzles. I have an issue where the seat seems to be too far back for the door. So I figured I would modify. This turned out to be more work and expense then I originally emagined.

First I made a shelf to put my foot on to check for comfort.



Seemed OK, but I got to thinking that if I had a hydro booist failure and had to slam on the brakes, I might bend the front aluminum. Even if I build the shelf stout, it might flex the front bodywork and bust my lower window. So I put a piece of angle to spread the load by the window. Here you can see I have a line drawn on the front aproximently where the window is. I was thinking I might build another brace like this on the pax side so they have something to push on. (Instead of my window, LOL) I don't plan on scaring anybody, but you never know.



I don't have much for pix of the shelf build. Here is a little step that supports the cable braces.













I needed to mount the pedal quadrient securely. I was sure about nuts and washers, so I threaded a 1/4" plate to spread out the load.



On the inside, I put an access hole so I can remove the pedals in the future. I also need this to buck the rivets on final installation. I can just get my hand in here.



End of part one. I'll finish this post soon.
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post #424 of 687 (permalink) Old 10-25-2016, 01:47 PM
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Cool fabrication going on there!
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post #425 of 687 (permalink) Old 10-26-2016, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Driver position, part two.

I needed to mount the seat more securely, so I did some work on the second level floor. First the foot well back. You wouldn't believe how strong the floor got after this back was in. I could stand anywhere without flexing.



Then the top.





At this point, the second level was located good in a "front to back" way, but it sagged with the seats on. (Not to mention a person) it will be allot stronger when the cab is built, but I plan to drive it some more for testing before that. So I had to add some angle for bracing. The seatbelts will be bolted through this angle also. The front seat bolts will pass through theses large washers.



The pedal quadrient itself was designed to mount anywhere, but in this case I had to narrow it about two inches so the cable arms fit in the console. I don't have any pix of this, but it was more of a PITA than you would think. Mainly because I have OCD about it having no slop and swivel freely. That ment taking it apart, trimming a spacer ring about ten thou, reassemboly and test, repeat.

After this was complete, I went to install the cables that I had removed to work on it. The throttle cable was no problem as I had enough slack to move it, but the brake cable was another thing. This cable is so stiff that you really have to have it exactly right. No choice but to order another. ($$$) I hope to use the old one for a T-case shifter although it is way overkill in strength. These cables don't look as big in the pic. The threaded end is 3/8"-24.



The next issue was the steering wheel. When I first built the rig, I had a short coulum. I didn't like the hydrolics so so close to me, so I got a longer one. I'm starting a collection now. The middle one is the one I'm using. (Currently)



The next issue was the tranny shifter. It came with its own cable that was stretched to the limit before. They don't make that kind of cable any longer. Of course it has a custom end. I ordered a new standard end. I was able to butcher a working end on it.



So after all that, I have this veiw from the seat. I think the window will be visible.





I still don't have my radiator hooked up yet. I would advise not doing business with "Classic Tube". After checking to make sure it was in stock, I ordered some stainless a month ago. They charged my credit card right away. I called to see what the holdup was and they said it was out of stock. Like WTF. They claim on their site they have the worlds largest stock and make their own bends. I only ordered a few 90s and some straight tube. (Rant over)

At least I can sit in the seat and make noises.

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post #426 of 687 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update.
Someone mentioned that the fan hub was very heavy. If your running E-fans, you don't really need the beef. You do need an idler. So I thought I would investigate a change. First I weighed the fan hub. This is not a good scale, but it says 10 lbs.



I happened to have a grooved tensioner (ordered by mistake) that bolted right on my motor. It worked like this, but I don't need two tensioners. (And the tensioner was heavy, also)



So I bought a idler from a F250. (I have a lot of parts from that truck on my project) And mounted it on a chunk of aluminum.



All painted and mounted on the motor. Works good and makes more room. Oh, and it weighs about two lbs.

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post #427 of 687 (permalink) Old 11-19-2016, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Another small update.

I wanted the lower rad outlet on the engine to be 1 3/4" to match the radiator outlets. That way all tubes and hoses will be the same. (I don't like reducer hoses and I don't understand why they do it) I want all the final plumbing to be stainless tube with short hose connections. This will require a tool for "beading" the tube. You can buy a purpose built machine. They seem to be overpriced for what they are. I decided to make a die for my bead roller.

Cutting on the lathe



My first sample piece. This is just a piece of swimming pool railing. Wasn't too bad.



I found it hard to keep it straight. I lined it up with some masking tape on a good piece of tube.



Worked much better. It is a fair amount of work because you have to squeeze it hard and roll it multiple times.



Then I welded it on the cast iron. Welding on the cast was a pain.

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post #428 of 687 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 02:49 PM
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It's to cool watching all your custom fabrication.
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post #429 of 687 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Another small update.

I wanted to start on the wheel floats. I had a aluminum tube for the center. I needed a flange to bolt a cover on. I started with my bead roller.



This angle was thicker and wider. No matter how much rolling I did, I couldn't get it to curve enough. So I went to the stretcher.



It fit amazingly good. There are a few cracks because I had to stretch it so much. I don't care because I've decided to do the flange differnt.



So on to the next test. The floatation foam expands with great force, but I wasn't sure if that force stayed after it was done expanding. So I covered the inside of the tube with wax paper and poured some foam in.



After it was dry, I could push it out. It was tight, but it still can be pushed back in.





That is as far as I got, but I'm pleased with the results. This is the last update for two weeks. (Back to work) I'll leave with some out door pics with the all metal floor. It was fun to drive around again.



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post #430 of 687 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 01:16 AM
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did that expanding foam get hot on you? I know the kingston foam we used in O&P would melt plastics to a degree when it was first setting up.
great for shaving to shape once it's set though and firmer than most would suspect.
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post #431 of 687 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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yea, it gets hot. The more you mix at one time, the hotter it gets. I bet if you stuck your hand in it while it was expanding, it would feel like sticking you hand in hot mashed potatoes. I hate to admit that I know what that feels like. Lol.
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post #432 of 687 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally got to some interesting work (on the fenders) and I have seem to have lost a lot of my detail pictures. You guys are probably sick of them anyways. I do have two building pics and some semi finished pics to get an idea of how they look. First I did a mockup in cardboard.



I like the look and decided to go right to aluminum. I have no way to "brake" the edge like the cardboard, but I plan to have the outer edge riveted on. It's going to take allot of work, but I can get to that later. I just needed to get fenders on it for the next floatation test. My first AL fender here was ok, but I ended up cutting it up because I wanted the ends longer. This was 1/4 of a 4' by 12' sheet of AL.



The final versions here are 1/2 of a 4' by 8' sheet. (2 sheets) I still have allot of work to do on the front inner fender. I kind of like the look of the truck without the floats on.





This angle is interesting because the front looks as wide as the fenders. (The fenders stick out a foot on each side.)



I couldn't resist driving over my "shooting" backstop. I've pulled up on this hill many times, but never drove over it because I thought I would get "high centered" on the float. This is coming down after going over. It doesn't look like much, but it was quite "thrilling" coming down. I'm curious to do it with the lower Windows installed. It was easy to get on and off like this.





Hopefully, when I get home in a couple weeks, I can recover the rest of my pictures.

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post #433 of 687 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Dont know if this will work.

This might work better.

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post #434 of 687 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 03:19 PM
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Awesome video. I can't wait to see what this vehicle will look like finished. Your fabrication skills are incredible.
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post #435 of 687 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update,

I'm plan to make a small "sleeper cab" on the back that will be over the engine. I want as much room as possible without making the roof any taller. So the lower I can make the engine, the more room I will have. Obviously, I can't do much to the engine, but there is a intake tube that goes over the engine making it taller than nessessary.



I've seen a number of people that reroute it for clearance of a low hood. So I ordered some stainless tubing from McMaster. I also got some stainless plate that was pre made for the intake.



Got to use the bead roller again.



I could have made this plate on my mill, but time is so hard to come by right now. I did have to modify one plate for a 45 degree entry.



Anyways after some poor TIG welding, grinding and smoothing, I have a new "charge air" tube.





I built this with a possibility of installing a intercoler on the back of the engine. That's why I have the two silicone joints facing back. I also incorporated a "grid heater" for cold starting. (That's the box with the studs between the tube and the intake plate.) It has electric coils that heat up the incoming air.



This mod gave me about 3" lower engine.

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post #436 of 687 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 08:51 AM
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Your fab work is great to watch. I doubt you'll need that grid heater in Florida. Mine hasn't been hooked up and I've been fine so far starting it at as low as 15 degrees. Haven't entirely elimnated it since I'm wondering if I'll need it when it's colder.
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post #437 of 687 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '89Bronco302;638422n5
Your fab work is great to watch. I doubt you'll need that grid heater in Florida. Mine hasn't been hooked up and I've been fine so far starting it at as low as 15 degrees. Haven't entirely elimnated it since I'm wondering if I'll need it when it's colder.
Thanks, there's a discussion about if the grid is needed/affective. But it is the same part for the 6BT or 4BT, so I figure there's no "flow" problem. From what I understand, if you got a good battery/cables, it's going to start without the grid.
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post #438 of 687 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Got a little update on the brakes. I was not real happy with them. They stopped the truck in short order, but being form a F250 that probably weighs 7,000 lbs. empty and a GVW of something like 24,000 lbs. I would expect they should stop this "under 5,000 lbs." chassis like nothing. These brakes are stiff to push even though it has hydro boost. I can stand on them and I can't lock the tires. (Not even the rear tires)

For those of you that don't remember, I have a heavy duty "push pull" cable that connects my pedal to the hydro boost. I decided to reevaluate the whole system.

First I unhooked the hydro and just worked the pedal to feel the drag of the system. There was some unnessesary drag due to the design of my rear cable pivot. I changed it to a rod end which was smoother, but didn't really help much in the brake department.

I've mentioned my brake displeasure on several forums and a couple people brought up "leverage". I decided to investigate. I measured the distance from my steering wheel to my brake pedal on my DD Bronco. Then I started the truck (for vacuum assist) and stood on the brakes hard. It measured 4" of travil. Then I did the same test on the project and it measured 2". Not sure if that's scientific, but seemed like I need more leverage.

After looking it over, I moved the front cable, both mount and attachment about one inch closer to the pivot point. Hear you can see the new location. The old holes are still visable.



Then I repeated the measurement test. Now I got 3" of travel. That's a 50 percent increase of leverage and I took the truck out for test spin. I drove on a dirt road at about 40mph and hit the brakes. The first time ever I locked up those 46's. It's amazing that the one inch made! The truck did vear to one side. I got off and checked out the skid marks. Both back tires and the driver's side front obviously we're locked. But the pax side front appears not to have been completely locked. I repeated the test a couple times. (Same results) Not sure of the issue. Maybe just needs blead, but will investigate later. For now, I'm happy for the small victory.
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post #439 of 687 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 10:25 PM
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So now that you have leverage, do you have bias? after bleed up front, not a bad idea, and inspect to see if the front pads are wearing any differently side to side, how about putting more bias forward? I used to lock the rears with 37's and installed a bias at the master cylinder, night and day. No more locking rear, and I get great stopping and don't seem to be overloading the front (watch for too much front bias, take the adjustment slowly and test). It may be that you are just not using enough front brake and the rears are still locking. Bleed pass. and then adjust bias forward to make both work harder and try again.

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post #440 of 687 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Since I haven't driven the truck much, the pads are still new. The brake system is all from a F250, but I don't have the complete system. The two parts I don't have are the anti-lock component or the bias component. So I have nothing to adjust right now. I don't really know what the F250 has that way, but I just ran the lines from the master straight to the calipers.

I could install a bias unit very easily. (I think it's just an adjustable limiting valve in the rear brake line) I'm thinking that currently I don't need one because the one front tire locked at about the same time as the rear tires. This may change as I build the truck and add weight.

I don't know of anything that favors just the left or right side. Obviously, I could install a limiting valve on the driver's side, but I think there must be a problem that it's not locking evenly left/right. Is my logic wrong?
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