Molasses project (92) - Page 35 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #681 of 687 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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So I need to update this before I get too far ahead.

I mounted some LED tail lights. (Not wired) Simple looking, but I like em.



Also note the license plate mount. It's just a piece of stainless with some "nutzerts". First time I have used my nutzert gun. Pretty nice.



I ordered a block to mount on my AC compressor. Of course, it didn't point the right way. So I cut off the tubes.



Then I welded them back on the other side and pointing down. (I put plugs in the original holes.)



Here you can see it on the compressor. Still need to get a longer bolt to hold it on.



I also got some Spal fans for both the radiator and AC condenser. (2 for each) I had to make a new shroud for the rad because I was set up for a Flexilite. The Spal come highly recommended and they appear to be better quality. (They are very proud of them)



I like the idea of four identical fans. If one fails, I could move one to the other location.



I know this is not the most exciting update, but some are totally uninterested.



Even when prodded, they give you that "you woke me up for this?" Look.

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post #682 of 687 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 09:46 PM
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Lol, "Fido" looks like he could care less.

Seriously though Rich, some really, awesome fab work.
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post #683 of 687 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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I needed some aluminum welded and it had to be good. That ment I couldn't do it. Lol. So I hooked up the tow bar.



It didn't tow very well and I only went about 30 mph. I've towed with this same set up before and it worked fine. I found out later I had the front wheels locked and the T-case was in 4Hi. Fortunately, it was only about ten miles. It was wild looking in the mirror.



The part I needed welded is the fender lips. The guy who welded them is a aircraft welder. His welds looked good enough to leave as is.





I choose to grind the welds down.



Although they are easy to see here, it doesn't show much in person. I think they will disappear once painted.



I ended up driving it back because of the bad towing manners. It was all back roads.
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post #684 of 687 (permalink) Old 09-11-2019, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Small update.

I want this to look millitary. I'm thinking green and black camo. I did some research on "Steel Soldiers". I found the numbers for the proper colors. Also recommendations on paint. It might sound funny, but those guys say the best paint is latex house paint. Specifically, Bahr marque. The guys over there said I might not want to go flat because it's hard to wash. The consensus is satin will still look authentic and be much easier to keep clean.

I got a sample can of paint. I have never been a painter. I would never attempt to paint a nice car, but in this case, I'm thinking a run here and there will probably look millitary. I decided to spray the center float for a test to see how the paint lays.

I was told I must etch the aluminum first. I got some aircraft etching stuff and wiped it on. After a minute or so I rinsed it off. Then I wiped on a alodine "conversion" coating. This stuff is suppose to be the best stuff to stick paint. After it sits on the metal for a few minutes, your suppose to rinse it off with lots of water and let air dry.

Of course that would take along time, so it would be much easier to just wipe it off with a wet rag. That's what I did. Well I guess I didn't quite get all the stuff off. I sprayed the paint in the evening and it looked great. The next morning it looked like this.



I sware it didn't have any of this when I went to bed. It was almost completely dry. I figured next morning the sun would have it baked on. I'm guessing it was the alodine.



I have since done the other side of this float. I still used the etch and alodine, but I thoroughly rinsed it before painting. I don't have any pics, but it went much better.
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post #685 of 687 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 02:34 AM
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Prep is insanely picky and I wouldn't have a clue about the specific needs of house paint on metal but I think @BigBlue 94 might be able to drop some helpful knowledge in that dept. Unless you're so happy with the other side you didn't show us.

Hope it works out. You've put a ton of time in on that big boy. I'd hate to see it painted up like ass after all that effort.
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post #686 of 687 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 09:27 AM
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Aw man, idk about house paint on that.

It definitely looks like you left a residue on there that caused the paint to seperate.

My personal opinion is to strip all that off there. Then you need to use an industrial enamel. Then to do it right, clean it, use a scotchbrite for scuff down, and then then clean again.

For optimal results, XIM 400 bonding primer should be sprayed on. A light tack coat followed by a coverage coat. Then use the enamel. I sell Benjamin Moore so I'm familiar with it. The BM Direct To Metal series would be the go to choice for me. At this point, since you've primed, you can use an oil base if you want. Only downside is itll chalk up after long sun exposure. Or the acrylic, which CAN be applied to bare aluminum, but it wont chalk. Wont be as scratch resistant as the oil however. Both products come in a low lustre finish, which would be perfect. It's just a step above flat. 3 coats of enamel will provide sufficient build and longevity.

Acrylic product number is HP25
Oil product number is P23
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post #687 of 687 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
Hope it works out. You've put a ton of time in on that big boy. I'd hate to see it painted up like ass after all that effort.
I'm going to do another part. If I can't do it successfully, it will go to a professional.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
Aw man, idk about house paint on that.

It definitely looks like you left a residue on there that caused the paint to seperate.

My personal opinion is to strip all that off there. Then you need to use an industrial enamel. Then to do it right, clean it, use a scotchbrite for scuff down, and then then clean again.

For optimal results, XIM 400 bonding primer should be sprayed on. A light tack coat followed by a coverage coat. Then use the enamel. I sell Benjamin Moore so I'm familiar with it. The BM Direct To Metal series would be the go to choice for me. At this point, since you've primed, you can use an oil base if you want. Only downside is itll chalk up after long sun exposure. Or the acrylic, which CAN be applied to bare aluminum, but it wont chalk. Wont be as scratch resistant as the oil however. Both products come in a low lustre finish, which would be perfect. It's just a step above flat. 3 coats of enamel will provide sufficient build and longevity.

Acrylic product number is HP25
Oil product number is P23
The "Steel Soldiers" site is all about ex-millitary vehicals. Real millitary trucks use CARC paint. It's some kind of chemical resistant stuff only the millitary can afford. They swear by the house paint. Of course they are painting steel. I've seen trucks painted with it ten years ago. Might be faded alittle, but looks good.

You probably are right. If it gets painted with any of that fancy stuff you mention, it will go to someone else. I was hoping for an "easy to touch up" paint job. The house paint seemed to fit the bill. I've got some more experimenting to do. If I'm not happy, it goes to a pro. Thanks for the imput.
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