Rept's Super Slow Re-Re-Rebuild (90) - Page 9 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #161 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah its heavy and awkward, but i feel like its mostly due to its size. Ill try to get a weight on it this afternoon cuz now im doubting myself

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Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
Another vote for painting. Depending on what access to materials / tools you have, I vote base coat / clear coat. I've done a few frame off's and helped with several more. A good epoxy primer on the frame, followed by a decent base coat / clear coat (you could get go matte or use flattener in the clear if you like) is much more durable (in my opinion) than powedercoating on a vehicle that gets DRIVEN.

Based on having access to the pieces being sprayed is the key of course. Otherwise there are several good products out there than can be brushed on and most importantly - can be EASILY and cheaply touched up as needed.

Powder coating (at least in my opinion) is VERY sensitive to the part being stripped totally clean as well.
Dont own a paint gun, so itll have to be rattle can I hadnt considered brush-on paints. Honestly, i dont know sh*t about painting properly
Recommendations for a good brush-on paint? ive got ~3 months invested in these bumpers, might as well take the time to paint em properly too.
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post #162 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:52 PM
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You don't need a spray gun or a compressor to get some GOOD paint on those bumpers.

Any DECENT auto body / paint supply store will have the ability to put automotive grade base coat in a aerosol spray can for you. It's not overly expensive either. That same place should also carry SprayMax 2K clear coat (A 2 part urethane clear in a spray can). It's more durable than any normal spray can paint. The bond is chemical and physical.

You could also check POR 15 or Rust Bullet for and Chassis black / coat for brush on options.
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post #163 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:02 PM
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My suggestion to cover your unfinished bumper:

Rust Bullet


You will not be disappointed.
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post #164 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Im already gonna be on the road tomorrow morning with the little dude, and Eastwood is only 30-40 minutes away, maybe ill swing by there and see what they have


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post #165 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 02:07 PM
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If you want to save time with the Rust Bullet, be sure to buy the Rapid Fire Coating Accelerator. Dry time is reduced from 4 hours to 30 minutes, while maintaining optimal coating performance. Rapid Fire also helps eliminate CO2 bubbling typically caused by excessive coating film application. This is a real issue, if you put it on thick instead of 3-4 thin coats, which they recommend, with sanding in between if over a 12 hour period. (see application below) It actually gasses off and leaves a bubbly, dull area, kind of like dried foam. This becomes even more of a problem after you open the can, once air is introduced, it thickens and eventually hardens in the can. So, every time you use it, it is getting thicker. The sell a an aerosol called Bloxygen which
uses ultra pure Argon, an inert gas, to drive the oxygen out of partially used containers of Rust Bullet
Coatings and preserve the paint for future use. While I'm on the subject, wear rubber gloves as you will not get this stuff off your hands; also be sure to clean the can rim and lid thoroughly, or you will never get the cover off without destroying it.



RUST BULLET® COATINGS
APPLICATION GUIDELINES
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post #166 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thats pretty neat, i didnt know they made that.
Im gonna hit up Eastwood tomorrow and see what they have on hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
Im estimating 125 lbs w/o the winch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fodder View Post
I figured it has to be under 150 lbs.
We were both close, its 130# The bare winch weighs 72! Dunno what 90' of 7/16 cable weighs, so add that in. The lightbar is ~7, so thats just over 200# for everything.

Bumper installed!













Id call this project complete but if you look closely, youll notice the clutch lever is behind the valance
Im gonna look into it tomorrow to see if ill be modifying the lever again, or making an extension or something.


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post #167 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 09:40 AM
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Synthetic rope saves ~20 lbs over wire, so your wire is probably around 23 lbs. My winch arrives today...I'll be using a hitch cradle for the time being, and deciding between building it into a bumper and/or adding a front hitch, so the sub-65 lb total weight with synthetic is a big selling point for moving it around!

I'm digging the look of your bumper and seriously considering tackling something like that myself, although the accordion frame horns on '92-96s are annoying to figure out what to do with. I may also revisit my old plan of a permanent rear bumper mount.
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post #168 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

I definitely want to switch to synthetic rope at some point.

I dont think adapting for the accordion frames would be too bad. I have a rough idea on how i could modify mine to work on a newer frame, but its difficult putting into text.



So i went over to Eastwood today, bought some epoxy primer, and their extreme chassis black. Supposed to be pretty durable, and its an aerosol so i dont have to worry about trying to brush it on the bumper, and into all the crevices. Hopefully i can start painting them in a week or two, but first i need to deal with this:



I dont want to cut the sheetmetal, so im modifying the clutch lever again. If all goes well, ill have this sorted tomorrow!
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post #169 of 189 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:57 PM
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post #170 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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I wish i had some super awesome update but i dont.

I came up with a solution that works, but im not super thrilled with. There is a lot less space than the pics show. Also, the clutch lever is tilted back towards the motor, and the gearbox can only be clocked every other position, so theres really no 'perfect' position; each one has its own issues to deal with so i stayed with this one.

I straightened the clutch lever...


...and then made a removable extension for it










It might look like theres a ton of room in this pic, but there totally isnt. I actually had to notch the bumper, valance & grill to get this to fit.




This is the 'lock' position. The handle swings forward into the grill, and over towards the passenger tire when in freespool. It works just fine with one hand, but its not much to look at. The problem is, it will become a very tight space, once the radiator/condenser, and trans/p.steering coolers go back in. Because of this, im stopping right here. This will work, but im afraid if i try to design something more elaborate, itll be in the way later down the road. So im going to keep this for now, and once i get closer to the truck being complete, ill revisit it and see if i cant come up with a more elegant design, that doesnt interfere with anything else (i already designed, mostly built, & then rejected a 'better' design because it took up too much space).

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post #171 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 04:50 PM
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That's a tight, tough spot to deal with but I'm confident you'll get it whipped. Good call waiting though.
I'd hate to see you get something smooth and slick and then have to muck it up due to other components in the way.
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post #172 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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I just had an epiphany. Cable drive! I need to find a cable that I can pin to the clutch lever, with a knob on the other end, to rotate the clutch. Then I can mount the knob right in between the slats on the grill!
I wonder if that would have enough leverage to overcome the detents on the lever, and engage/disengage easily. Maybe something boat related? Im gonna have to do some research.....
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post #173 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
I just had an epiphany. Cable drive! I need to find a cable that I can pin to the clutch lever, with a knob on the other end, to rotate the clutch. Then I can mount the knob right in between the slats on the grill!
I wonder if that would have enough leverage to overcome the detents on the lever, and engage/disengage easily. Maybe something boat related? Im gonna have to do some research.....
You took the words right out of my mouth; I was going say use a flex cable or if you can, index the housing, possibly moving the lever forward so it passed through the bumper horizontally.

I would think a diesel engine stop cable might work.
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post #174 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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The issue is, the lever rotates 180° from free to lock, so I'm not sure how to rig up a push/pull cable to handle that range of motion. If I could find a cable that rotates inside it's sleeve instead of sliding in/out I'd be set.
No go on the clocking; Warn told me every other position on the gear box; that puts it out the front at like 30° up (which im pretty sure is underneath the light bar anyway) or down at a weird angle, or coincidentally, straight out towards the engine.
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post #175 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 11:43 AM
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Would a hand throttle kit work?

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post #176 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Just saw your reply. I dunno what im going to do. The lever actually works pretty good, and i couldnt find any cable mount that looked like would work. The problem is it rotates 180º, and has a detent at both ends. I looked into throttle levers for various bikes, but they all have a spring to return to idle, and i need something neutral that will stay where i put it. On top of that, the cable still goes to a throttle plate with a push/pull motion, and i have a rotating motion. Mounting it sideways on the winch to try to pull on the clutch lever would probably work, except for that whole 180º-of-rotation part. Im not too worried about it right now, theres a lot to do before i really have to concern myself with it.


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post #177 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 02:54 PM
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I would have expected you to try to rig a window motor, or power lock actuator somehow.

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post #178 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 03:37 PM
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...almost like a transfer case shifter motor

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post #179 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Power sounds cool, except those things typically fail when you need them most I like the idea of manual in this case, its simple and reliable.


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post #180 of 189 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
Power sounds cool, except those things typically fail when you need them most
And here I was going to be a smart a$$ and suggest using the winch itself to power the control lever. I mean, you've already got the in & out covered...
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