96 Build - Page 24 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #461 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Set the carrier aside and remove the pinion retainer bolts



...and pull the pinion retainer out and make sure to save the shims as it's usually a good starting point.



Now you can remove the yoke and then the old seal.



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post #462 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Pull the pinion and bearings out...



and you are ready to press off the bearing. Crush sleeves are used when setting up most 9 inch carriers to set bearing load, but on the N case with Daytona pinion a non-crush solid spacer is used, shown above are the two side by side (solid spacer on right).



I have already removed my spacer and shim, sorry no picture.

Pressing off the bearing:


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post #463 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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...and bearing installed on the new pinion:



I cut the cage off an old bearing and welded it to a pipe. I use this to press bearings on by hand if I don't use the press.



Bearing pressed on...



and spacer and shim installed


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post #464 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Place the pinion into the housing, install the old shims and retainer. Be sure to put a new O-ring on the retainer, (sorry, I forgot to take a picture) before you put it back together and start the bolts to index it correctly.



Be sure to tap it into place before you tighten the bolts and then slide the outer bearing over the pinion and press it onto the shaft.




make sure to put your oil slinger back in before you install the seal:




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post #465 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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install the yoke with a NEW nut and tighten. Remember, I am using a spacer, If you are using a crush sleeve, you will need to do this gradually to set your preload.



Now you can place your carrier back into the housing and install your end caps and adjusters. Make sure to torque the caps to 85 ft. lbs. (in this pic I have the adjuster lock on, but it should be off so you can set your backlash )






Once you have it all back together you will need to set your backlash.

This is done by the adjusters on each cap. You will need a spanner wrench to adjust them. I made one out of a piece of square tubing and two 1/4" bolts


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post #466 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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To set your backlash, you will need to move the carrier closer to or farther away from the pinion. I normally set it up by hand and then check it with the dial indicator and fine tune it from there. You will need to loosen one side and tighten the other side to move it where you want it. This is where the spanner wrench comes in. Make small adjustments and check after you tighten them.





The adjuster nuts are really helpful to move the ring gear back and forth. Unlike the 8.8 or Dana 44 that requires you place shims behind the bearing every time you need to make an adjustment, on the 9" you just loosen one side and tighten the opposite side to move the gear.


The new gear is so thick, that to set the backlash, I needed to remove some material from the pinion straddle bearing mount. It wasn't hitting, but it was really close. I pulled the carrier out and hit it with the right angle grinder so it would have some extra relief. I was concerned that things might "grow" when they got hot. It was basically casting flash and it was ground down before, but I feel better after I cleaned it up a little more. You can see in the pic that it has some room now.


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post #467 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Now use a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Line up the dial indicator with the outside diameter of the gear tooth and zero the gauge. Hold the yoke and move the gear back and forth, you are looking for .007 to .010 of backlash. I think we're good.



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post #468 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Once your backlash is set you can check your pattern.



I had a high contact at the top of the gear tooth so my pinion was too far away. I pulled the retainer and removed .011 shim and replaced it with a thinner one and reset my backlash.




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post #469 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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In the end, this is what I ended up with for a pattern;I'm happy with that....



I called it a day and cracked a beer. I will start putting it back together next week sometime.

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post #470 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:49 PM
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I think you just like wrestling those tire off and on


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post #471 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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@biggum Lol, not really. I would have loved to do everything all at once when I first started building the truck, just couldn't afford it. That way, these $+)@%^ tires would have been handled once.

Hopefully these short tutorials will help someone out;I keep forgetting to take pictures while I'm working. It's kinda hard when you get on a roll, that and my phone gets pretty greasy.

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post #472 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrajoe View Post
@biggum Lol, not really. I would have loved to do everything all at once when I first started building the truck, just couldn't afford it. That way, these $+)@%^ tires would have been handled once.

Hopefully these short tutorials will help someone out;I keep forgetting to take pictures while I'm working. It's kinda hard when you get on a roll, that and my phone gets pretty greasy.
I use an old smartphone that's no longer in use to take my pics, so I feel a lot less bad when it gets greasy and dirty.

Also thanks for the step by step on this gear swap. I'm really interested in attempting it on my Bronco some day, but I'd have to acquire a few more tools to get it done. I also like the seasoned mechanic tricks like using the drum as a slide hammer.
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post #473 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks @Doosenberry , check with your local auto parts store, you may be able to rent the tools you need.
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post #474 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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I went to the shop after work tonight so I could pull the bearings and seals off my axles so I could match them up. In case you were wondering why I just didn't order them for my application; I had Currie build this rear for me many years ago and am not really sure what I needed to order.

Quick run down, here's the axle and bearing/seal setup...



Took a cut off wheel and cut the retainer just about through...



Placed the bearing puller under the seal and race...



Placed it in the press....



...and popped it off:



Now I'll go match them up tomorrow (hopefully!)

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post #475 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up all my parts this morning



Made up a quick tool for the slide hammer to remove the old races:



Worked like a charm:


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post #476 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Placed the new seals on the axles and pressed on the bearings and retainers:



,,,and installed the new brake shoes


When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



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post #477 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned out the housing and the magnet:



Installed the gasket and then the 3rd member


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post #478 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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As I was tightening the nuts, a few of them felt like they were stripped. I pulled them out and they were a little eaten up from rust, so I pulled the carrier and knocked out all the studs. I ordered some from Summit and they should be here Tuesday. Sucks, because I ruined my gasket and had to clean up all the RTV again.

While I was at it, I knocked out all the wheel studs and ordered 3" long ARP studs.



So, now it's wait for parts again....


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post #479 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 12:11 AM
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that last pic sure shows a lot of weight on a little bit of lip.
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post #480 of 554 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
that last pic sure shows a lot of weight on a little bit of lip.

Yeah, I had a couple of 1 ton under hoist stands under the springs but I raised the lift to clean up at the end of the day. I placed them back under before I left. I use the LVL's so the suspension doesn't hang and so I can raise and lower the lift if needed. The ramps are normally closer together but with the 44's....
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  Ford Bronco Forum > Bronco Discussions > 78 - 96 Build Forum....Builds only

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