1985 Eddie Bauer build - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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1985 Eddie Bauer build

So, as some of you know, my '81 was rear ended a few months ago.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...uilt-last.html

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ndeterred.html

I found myself a nice '85 while I was visiting friends in Seattle. It was in nice shape, but just a little rough. I could just tell it was very solid (doors clicked closed nicely, no rips or tears in the interior), just some cosmetic stuff that needed work, like a broken wing window, cracked windshield, some body rust, etc. Bought it for $1800 and drove it 500 miles home. It has 50,000 on the odometer and I'm imagining considering it's condition, that it's probably 150k. It also hasn't been registered since 2011.

Over the next few months, all of the goodies from my '81 will be going into the new '85. My family tells me I should call it the Phoenix since it'll be bringing the other back to life.

Time for a build thread!



It's a 1985 Eddie Bauer edition with all the bells and whistles. I had looked at several other Broncos, and found a few I liked, but despite the issues it had, this one stood out. I also like that it has a tan interior, which is about the only other color aside from the awesome black interior of my '81 that I could stand. (I even passed up some nicer Broncos because I knew I couldn't stomach the pimp red interior for the next who knows how many years. )

Another set of pictures I took half way home from Seattle. Had to stop and commemorate the new Bronco. I'm hoping the original Ford Bronco tire cover will fit over 32" tires, but I have my doubts.





Here it is sitting next to my '81



I just finished building my 300 in April, so it'll definitely be going in in the near future. It currently has an EFI 302 and an AOD. I'm debating between the NP435 I have in the '81 or getting a ZF5. The 3.00 worked great with the NP435 but the 3.55s in the '85 might be a bit much on the highway. An overdrive is much needed.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...300-build.html


I'll also be keeping the EFI pump and installing a fuel injection kit of some kind. I think I'm checked out on carbs.

Immediate things I knew it needed

Tachometer is all screwed up. Just sort of flops around and points wherever.
AOD shifts hard
Cracked windshield
Rust in the body panels and rotted tailgate
Fuel gauge doesn't work
Headliner sagging


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1985 Eddie Bauer Bronco. High Performance 9.1:1 compression 300 (305) I6. Roller Rockers, DUI ignition, Holley Sniper EFI. ZF5. 32" BFG A/T KO2s. 3.55 8.8" rear.
1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #2 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 01:29 PM
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i agree about the interior. by the end of my search for my current bronco, i had decided i only wanted grey or tan. i couldn't stomach all red or all blue interiors.
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post #3 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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The first project I tackled was the fuel sender, and I'm really glad that I did!
The tripometer isn't working right, so I had no idea how much fuel is in the tank. I figured I'd get it low, drop the tank, and put in a new sender. It'd be an afternoon job.

However.... After I took off the skid plate, I was astounded with how much rust there was. Then, I dragged the fuel tank out from under the Bronco, and there was a trail of fuel behind it. Just moving it ripped enough rusted steel off the bottom to get it to start leaking! I quickly leaned it up so that the gas was away from the side, and there were 3 or 4 good sized holes in it. I could probably punch my finger through the steel if I wanted to.

The skid plate was rotted out as well. On top of that, someone sometime previously had caught it on something and it was dented and ripped.

((And if ANYONE knows how to rotate supermotors pictures, please let me know. They all orient themselves landscape, no matter how the original was taken. Drives me nuts.))









So, time for a new fuel tank and skid plate. I wanted to go with a plastic tank, but it was about $220 shipped and a steel one was about $85 on Amazon Prime. I couldn't justify the plastic one. But, I found that BGY'd upgraded/redesigned skid plate was actually less expensive than a stock replacement from LMC, so I ordered one of those.

1980-1996 Ford Bronco Skid Plate 33 Gallon-Broncograveyard.com

After a week of waiting, they both showed up and were ready to go in. I really like JBG's skidplate. It is nice and beefy, and fit perfectly. Very nice quality piece. And noticeably heavier.
I got some rubber strips from Lowe's to rest between them, along with some new hardware.











I also installed the new fuel sender. I also figured it'd be a good time to install a new fuel pump and strainer, since I had no idea how old the previous one was (I'm guessing original).







The kits also came with new clips and gaskets, so now it's all buttoned up. (I'll post pics of it installed tonight since it was dark last night). The only thing left is I want to grab the 87+ filler neck off of my '81 and install it at a later date.


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1985 Eddie Bauer Bronco. High Performance 9.1:1 compression 300 (305) I6. Roller Rockers, DUI ignition, Holley Sniper EFI. ZF5. 32" BFG A/T KO2s. 3.55 8.8" rear.
1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #4 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Next was fixing the head liner.



First step was getting it out. I couldn't believe how much needed to be removed to get it out. Everything that holds the headliner in place is held in by something else. All those are held in by something else. Etc.
I even had to remove the dash pad and the rear trim off of the removable top.

I found it amusing that the inside was gray steel. Guess they don't paint it if they don't need to.









Finally, the topper was out.



Unfortunately, event though the middle was sagging, all of the edges were sealed up like a drum. So, I got out a razor blade and slowly cut away until I had some access holes.



I used 3M 38808 Headliner adhesive. Some really nasty sticky stuff, and it worked great.

Reached in through the holes I made and sprayed everything down until it was well coated. Then, started from the center working out, pressed all of the foam cloth back onto the headliner board.






I found the easiest way to install the headliner was to hold it up with my head and quickly attach the essentials (visors and dome light). Don't let it sag on any of these or it'll crack and snap the hard backing.





Once those are in, it'll stay in place.

Next was to reinstall the interior. Lots and lots... and lots of screws.





The hardest part to get in and out was the metal trim that runs along the inside of the windshield. The clips are STRONG. I had to use a good foot and a half long screwdriver to pry and pop them out. If anyone's removing theirs, just remember you're not going to break it. You have to be really aggressive.





These weren't present on my '81 (steel roof) but the models with headliners have two of them on each side above the doors too.




Looks so much better!!

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1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #5 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Another thing I noticed while crawling underneath was that it has a BW1345 transfer case. I never never dealt with one as both my Broncos, my brother's Bronco, and the parts truck that I got my NP435 out of all had NP208s. Anything I should be aware of with them? Or is it 6 of 1, half a dozen of another?


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1985 Eddie Bauer Bronco. High Performance 9.1:1 compression 300 (305) I6. Roller Rockers, DUI ignition, Holley Sniper EFI. ZF5. 32" BFG A/T KO2s. 3.55 8.8" rear.
1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #6 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 05:41 PM
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Looking good man!

On the supermotors pics, I've found that if I always take them landscape, it works just fine. I think there's a way to do it, and I think there's a thread about it somewhere here.

What's up with the 87+ filler hose? In what way is it different from the 86 and back?

I've had a bw1345, and had no problems. It's just a previous model of the bw1356 that newer Broncos and f-series had. The np208 and both BW cases are aluminum and chain driven. If you go searching for a zf5, you may find a BW 4407 behind it, which is a big brother to the BW1356.

Did you have a hydro clutch put on your 81? If so, take it and the pedals out of it because you'll need them for the 85 on a zf5 swap. You cant use the pedals off of a zf5 parts truck because the zf never came in a 80-86. You have to use the pedal assembly from the same generation of truck due to the dash structure differences.
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post #7 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-07-2017, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
Looking good man!

On the supermotors pics, I've found that if I always take them landscape, it works just fine. I think there's a way to do it, and I think there's a thread about it somewhere here.
Yeah, I need to remember to always do landscape. They just don't always work for the picture though, so I was hoping there was a way to do it. I'll see if I can find the thread on rotating them.

Quote:
What's up with the 87+ filler hose? In what way is it different from the 86 and back?
Biggest difference is in how they work. Look the same from the outside, but internally they're switched. Pre '87 the gas goes down the big rubber hose and then vents out the little ribbed vent tube. That little tube has a way of kinking and not venting properly, and if the main rubber tube starts to dry rot and get cracks, your gas leaks as you fill it.
On the 87+, there's a sturdy rubber tube inside (safe from the elements) that the gas flows down and then the tank vents around the outside. It's a much more reliable setup.



I pulled the setup from a junk yard for $5 a number of years back.

Quote:
I've had a bw1345, and had no problems. It's just a previous model of the bw1356 that newer Broncos and f-series had. The np208 and both BW cases are aluminum and chain driven. If you go searching for a zf5, you may find a BW 4407 behind it, which is a big brother to the BW1356.
Yeah, I haven't found much, if anything, putting one above the other. About the only difference I've found is someone said you can flat tow an BW1345 but not an NP208. Don't know if that's accurate. I knew they were both aluminum chain drive cases, which I've never had an issue with aside from one with a little bit of chain stretch. Otherwise, the BW has a little bit lower 2.72 as opposed to 2.61 (lots of online sources say 2.69 for the NP208, but it's embossed right on my case's tag that it's 2.61).

Quote:
Did you have a hydro clutch put on your 81? If so, take it and the pedals out of it because you'll need them for the 85 on a zf5 swap. You cant use the pedals off of a zf5 parts truck because the zf never came in a 80-86. You have to use the pedal assembly from the same generation of truck due to the dash structure differences.
Yes, I put it in myself. Quite the project. But I'll definitely be hanging onto the whole setup. The hydro clutch and pedal assembly for that body style is NOT that easy to come by, and some parts are obsolete. Fortunately, unlike my '81 which took lots and lots of precise measurements, the '85 already has markers for where to drill the hole through the firewall for the master cylinder.
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1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #8 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-08-2017, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, today's a fun day.

The next big task is the rust repair. The new Bronco has rust all around in the usual spots, so it's going to the body shop today. The shop is pretty cool, they specialize in restoring Mustangs and Broncos (albeit EBs) but they're well versed in them. I didn't know that until after I went there, so I must've had a sixth sense. Also, when I pulled up, they had 3 78/79 Broncos sitting out front that someone had recently given them, so I was a little green with envy.

Fortunately, I've had two front fenders in my garage that I yanked out of a junk yard and have had for probably 8 years now. I meant to use them to fix my '81, but never did. Finally going to use!







The rear right wheel well is rotted out, so I purchased a new full panel from Temco, and the inner fender well is rusted with it, so I ordered one of those from LMC.







The tailgate is in terrible shape too, so I ordered a new tailgate. I saw they just have the lower skin, but considering the inside was rusted out as well, I just ordered an entire new one.











The rear left has some surface rust that they're going to just patch up. (Also going to ask if they can straighten the bumper).



It took a little work last night, but I got all the panels and parts stuffed into the back.





I'll post progress pics while I can, but I should have it back in about 2 - 3 weeks! It'll have a new paint job as well.


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1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
Supermotors Pics

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post #9 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 12:38 PM
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Cool project. I scored mine at impound auction for $250 plus tax and it has zero body rust (just a little bit of surface rust on the front of the frame, etc) and for that price I can live with the red until I can swap it out, coat it with something or install metal panels, although it IS pretty pukey

For my Scout 2 I went with the poly tank and couldn't be happier. More expensive but Scouts love to rust and it's one less issue to deal with. I also got a new sending unit although it's not working with the stock gauge, which was kinda wonky anyway and I'm going all electric and LED where possible. The Scout will eventually be a summer vehicle only with removable soft top

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post #10 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 01:09 PM
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Are you going with the same color combo?

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post #11 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 01:50 PM
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Was that @ me? If you mean the Bronco, not at all.. it will transform into a war wagon with light armor, and Marine Green flat paint. I'll use SS sheet steel inside wherever I can, and either swap or coat the other panels, probably a dark green, or black. Carpet will be replaced with Neoprene rubber with diamond plate look

I figure it wasn't at me so just ignore the post in that case

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post #12 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00 Bronc Buster 00 View Post
Cool project. I scored mine at impound auction for $250 plus tax and it has zero body rust (just a little bit of surface rust on the front of the frame, etc) and for that price I can live with the red until I can swap it out, coat it with something or install metal panels, although it IS pretty pukey

For my Scout 2 I went with the poly tank and couldn't be happier. More expensive but Scouts love to rust and it's one less issue to deal with. I also got a new sending unit although it's not working with the stock gauge, which was kinda wonky anyway and I'm going all electric and LED where possible. The Scout will eventually be a summer vehicle only with removable soft top
I would love to have scored something like that here, but I know I would have to have been much less picky. I know I paid a little more, but I got what I was wanting. So, win some lose some. :)

I agree that the poly tank is totally the way to go, and I would have gotten one without hesitation if I didn't have a handful of other things that all needed to be dealt with too. I had planned on spending $50 on the sender, and suddenly had to drop another $300 as is because of all the rust I found. I'm sure it'll be fine for a good 5 - 10 years or more. If not, I'll get a poly then. At least the skid plate is taken care of.

Sounds like your Scout is a fun build.


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Are you going with the same color combo?
I am. I tossed a few other ideas around, but ultimately I liked the color combo, and the red is much like the color of the '81 I'm losing. I liked looking out over the hood and having it look the same. A little nostalgia and a little something new.
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1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #13 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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In the mean time, I have a few "what are these?" plugs dangling from under the dash. Both of my previous Broncos were Custom models, so they were bare bones. As such, I'm not savvy on all the extra wiring that goes into A/C, cruise, power, EFI, etc.

So far, the only thing I've noticed that doesn't work is the rear defroster.

Plug #1



If you look closely, the plug that goes into the back of the black box next to the defroster switch IS plugged in, so this doesn't go to that. However, I have no idea what it goes to.

Plug #2



No idea what this is for, but it comes out right in the middle of the firewall behind the brake pedal. Any ideas?

And no, they don't go to each other (unless a connecting wire is missing). The ends are over a foot apart and have different shapes.

Lastly, on a different topic, this is the plug for the power window switch on the driver's side.

It works, but it's busted and broken in several places. Does anyone know where to get a replacement? It also doesn't stay in place because the metal clips that hold it onto the door are missing. Where can I get those?



Thanks!
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1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #14 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-09-2017, 07:07 PM
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If you haven't installed the skid plate and tank yet, may I recommend that if they aren't rust treated that you score some self etching primer (Lowes has both these items) and give it a few coats, then undercoat the hell out of them? That is if you don't already have alternate plans.. I did this to my Scout and while I had everything out I cleaned up any rust under there and did the same to all metal surfaces. I was a sight after the job, undercoating all over me but it was worth the mess

As far as the broken switch, I'm going out on a limb and say there must be Ford graveyards online where they will pick and ship parts. There are several for International Scouts and they are far less common so give it a try

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post #15 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 12:00 AM
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Nice work on the project. Was the Bronco always in Seattle? I'm surprised at the rust (Or should I not be).
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post #16 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If you haven't installed the skid plate and tank yet, may I recommend that if they aren't rust treated that you score some self etching primer (Lowes has both these items) and give it a few coats, then undercoat the hell out of them? That is if you don't already have alternate plans.. I did this to my Scout and while I had everything out I cleaned up any rust under there and did the same to all metal surfaces. I was a sight after the job, undercoating all over me but it was worth the mess
I thought about that, especially with the tank, but was advised against it. The new tanks come with a transparent sealant around the outside of them. And I noticed that when I picked it up, the whole thing felt kinda greasy. I think I'd have been at it for hours trying to remove it all so that I could spray it down with something. I do kinda wish I had done the skid plate though. I probably still can pull it off and do it before it gets dirty. Otherwise... It took 35 years to rust the first time, it should be okay for a while.

Quote:
As far as the broken switch, I'm going out on a limb and say there must be Ford graveyards online where they will pick and ship parts. There are several for International Scouts and they are far less common so give it a try
Yeah, that's what I figured. I just didn't know if maybe someone knew a place to source them new. All the pieces are there, I may just try to glue it all together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jedijoy13 View Post
Nice work on the project. Was the Bronco always in Seattle? I'm surprised at the rust (Or should I not be).
Thanks!

And as for location, I'm not sure. I didn't get the full history on it. I just recall that the guy I bought it from purchased a number of years ago from another guy in the Seattle because it didn't run. He figured out the problem and installed all new injectors and it purred like a kitten after that. But, then just drove it a little bit here and there and didn't do a lot with it. Last registration on the plates was 2011.

I imagine that's probably why it rusted. It didn't move much, didn't dry out, or anything and the water just sat on it. Just guessing.
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1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #17 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 01:29 PM
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In the rainforest here (Western WA) you have to at LEAST tarp your non drivers over with a waterproof tarp (HF has them, the silver ones) or get them under cover. My new custom home I'm getting ready to build will have a heated, below ground 33 x 55 foot parking bay with 12 foot ceiling. I can even put my box truck and a toy hauler in there

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post #18 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Man, that sounds like a nice space you're going to have! I'd love a space like that.

Fortunately, here in southern Idaho, it's a bit more of a desert, so things don't rust very much. We get rain off and on in the spring and fall, but nothing like the coast.

Plus, this'll be a daily driver, so there won't be any time to cover it.


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1985 Eddie Bauer Bronco. High Performance 9.1:1 compression 300 (305) I6. Roller Rockers, DUI ignition, Holley Sniper EFI. ZF5. 32" BFG A/T KO2s. 3.55 8.8" rear.
1981 Bronco Custom (R.I.P.)
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post #19 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
The np208 and both BW cases are aluminum and chain driven.
If I remember right, the 1356 has a magnesium case, itís lighter than aluminum but can be worn through around the pump arm, causing it to spin on the shaft and not pump. As far as I know everything else you said is accurate though.

I donít really have much experience with the 1345 but havenít heard much good or bad about them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post
I'm debating between the NP435 I have in the '81 or getting a ZF5. The 3.00 worked great with the NP435 but the 3.55s in the '85 might be a bit much on the highway. An overdrive is much needed.
I think if you get a zf5 you might look into 3.73 or 4.10 gears. My 87 has a swapped in np435 and I think 3.08 gears, 33ís and a 5.0L and itís a dawg in the mountains here. I feel like the trans doesnít have enough gears. I can start in 2nd as long as Iím on flat ground, I can down shift into 3rd when making right turns but need a higher gear when cruising at 45 (common speed limit in my area) but the revs are too low in 4th at 45 to make it up a hill. When cruising down the highway I donít want to go much over 65 due to the revs (and a wobble). I would love to have another gear above 4th, then redo the axle gearing to bring all the other gears ďcloser togetherĒ if you know what I mean. At some point I will probably change the axle gearing to 3.55 and deal with the higher revs, maybe swap in a zf5 way down the road and up the gearing even more. But my bronco is a weekend wheeler and not my daily driver, so I would sacrifice some road manners for off-road performance. Your preferences might be different. And it might not be as bad with smaller tires.
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post #20 of 323 (permalink) Old 11-11-2017, 08:23 AM
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Bronco Info: 85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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That is correct, the 1356 is magnesium, but it's still a soft, thin cast piece compared to the cast iron cases.

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