67galax's 1996 Bronco 5.0 E4OD swap to 5.8 ZF5 - Ford Bronco Forum
 33Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
67galax's 1996 Bronco 5.0 E4OD swap to 5.8 ZF5

Hi all,

I decided to start a build thread for my engine/trans swap. I've been posting updates in the 'what did you do to your bronco today' thread and I'd like to add more pics and detail and not clog that one up too bad.

Here's some background: I've had to bronco for 9-10 years now. Never really had any issues with it. Its nearly always ran good, and the issues I have had with it (bad coil, ignition actuator) never cost too much to fix. I've always wanted a bigger motor, though.

About 3-4 years ago, I saw a listing for a 'for parts' 1996 F150 with the 5.8. It was rusty and a spring bucket/shock tower was rusted through and the frame was sitting on the bump stop. Guy said other than it needing a new frame, it was a fine truck. I bought it for $500 and drove it 45 minutes home. I replaced both front shock towers and did a lot of useful truck things with it, while still daily driving my bronco.

I had always planned on putting that 5.8 in the bronco, and figured that since they are both 1996/MAF/OBDII motors, it should be fairly simple.

Also, I always kind of wished my bronco was a 5 speed. I'd read on here about how weak the M5OD from F150s is, and how a ZF was the best 5 speed for a bronco. Two summers ago, I found a 93 F250 4x4 that had the 5.8/ZF combo. I got it for $800 because it had engine issues. It ran with lots of blow-by. I really only wanted the trans and maybe the rear (sterling 4.10). I sold the engine and computer and scrapped the rest.

Over time, the bronco 5.0 developed a small coolant leak that has become progressively larger. I never could pinpoint its source, and never tried very hard to find it, but assumed it was either the water pump or intake manifold. I bought the intake gasket set and a new water pump thinking I would just redo that and fix my leak.
BikerPepe` and dash_cam like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
I removed all the 'top end' stuff that I could. It wasn't until I was really into it that I realized that the hidden upper manifold bolt was a T40. Lucky for me, I had one in 1/4 hex that I could get down in there. Pulling the upper intake showed lots of crud, and when I flipped it over, a bunch of nasty, old gas spilled out.



I also broke the EGR pipe. I figured when it came time to fix, I'd solder/braze a section of copper pipe back in place of the flex.

[IMG][/IMG]

Removing the lower intake got me two broken corner bolts.

Dee likes this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Taking off the water pump, I managed to break one of the studs that goes through the timing cover and into a water jacket. I managed to grip it with a tiny pipe wrench and get it out. Timing cover came off with it.





BigBlue 94 likes this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
At this point, I was still hoping I could remove the broken bolts and get the 5.0 back together. I ordered a new timing chain and oil pan gasket.

But the more I thought about it, and the more I talked to people, the more I was realizing that there would be no really easy fixing this in the bronco, and that if I pulled the engine, I might as well pull the trans and put the ZF in there. And if I was going that far, might as well put the 5.8 from the F150 in there too and be done with it.

So, I began preparing the interior for a 5 speed.
BigBlue 94 and Dee like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 04:45 PM
Dee
Registered User
 
Dee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jersey
Posts: 188
Bronco Info: 94 C350 7.3 IDIt
iTrader: (0)
Garage
That sounds like project truck math and with whole donor trucks, should make this a good solid build :)

Sent from my VS835 using Tapatalk
67galax, BigBlue 94 and dash_cam like this.

Dee is offline  
post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 06:43 PM
FSM Lifetime
 
dash_cam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: dallas tx
Posts: 3,126
Bronco Info: 1996 EB, 351w, stock-ish. 1981 custom 351m, long gone.
iTrader: (4)
Garage
Looks good so far!
67galax likes this.
dash_cam is offline  
post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
The first thing I did to the interior was to remove the seats, center console, transfer case shifter, and pulled back the carpet to access the trans tunnel hump. It would give me better access later when it came time to pull the engine, and it allowed me to unhook the shifter cable without crawling under the truck.



I then pulled the instrument cluster to get rid of the PNRD21 indicator. It wasn't absolutely necessary, but I didn't want it there anymore, and wanted to make it look as factory as possible. After unhooking the cable from the shifter/steering column, I pulled the instrument cluster.



Since my lens was dirty and cracked, I swiped one from a spare cluster I had in the garage. I also dusted off the faces of the gauges while it was open.

I removed those two small screws and the indicator came out.



Popped the blank plate in there and screwed it back down. Nice clean cluster.



I left it out until I finished with the steering column mods.
Dee and elpancho like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
I have a complete manual steering column from my 93 F250 parts collection. It didn't have an airbag, and I really didn't want to have to hassle with wiring, so I decided to just swap parts with my original.

First was pulling the ignition cylinder so I could get the plastic housing off. Then I undid the 4 (I think) bolts that hold the column to the dash. This let the column droop down low enough that I could remove the shifter assembly.



You can see that the top bushing was out of place and probably led to a sloppy shifter feel. Removed those two brackets, the OD off button wire connector, and what I think is related to the column lock down near the bottom.

My manual shroud didn't have the opening for the tilt, so I swapped bottoms so I could have tilt and no open shifter hole. I really didn't want to have the 'push' key release feature, but thought it would be better than leaving that hole empty, so I installed it.







Once I got everything back together, I think it looks like a factory 5 speed bronco should.

BigBlue 94 and Dee like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
I also swapped out the single brake pedal for the clutch setup.

Years before I even had the F250 parts, I picked up a set of pedals from a guy parting a manual truck, so I now have 2 sets, but both will be put to good use...

I didn't take many pictures of this step, so I'll describe most of it.

I was able to get the single brake pedal off fairly easy. I did unbolt the steering shaft at the u-joint and was able to push the square/rectangle shaft down into the engine bay to leave some space to pull/install the pedals. I also unbolted the clutch master cylinder cover and removed it, keeping the nuts for the clutch master cylinder studs that are attached to the clutch pedal setup.

Removal consisted of pulling a pin to remove the brake light switch, two smaller bolts holding the assembly to the dash/cowl, and the 4 bolts that feed through the bracket that holds the brake master cylinder on. Once those were removed, the brake came out and the clutch/brake assembly went it, or at least started to.

The auto shifter cable was still in place and causing problems, so I pulled it. I did have to unbolt a wire harness 'loom strap' that was bolted to the e-brake casting to get the cable out. I pulled the grommet where it goes through the floor and fed it all down and outside the cab. I reached through the open trans tunnel and popped the cable off the shifter and it was gone.

Once I was able to get the clutch bracket relatively in place, I had to run around outside and position the master cylinder 'push rod' through the hole into the bracket. After that, it bolted up fairly easy. I got the two clutch master cylinder studs through the firewall, all the bolts connected, and the brake pedal and switch reattached to the pedal. While at the junkyard yesterday, I found a filler plug from a manual truck to fill in where the shifter cable used to go through the floor.

BigBlue 94 and Dee like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
In between last weekend and this one, I disconnected some more things to get ready to pull the engine. I disconnected the exhaust at the manifold, which was fairly easy. My bronco is a southern vehicle and mostly rust free.

I pulled the driveshafts and removed the engine mount bolts. I also drained the torque converter and removed the starter. The last step was to drain the oil. Turns out some coolant found its way into the pan during the intake/water pump removal. I'm not worried too much since I hadn't been run at all to mix up or get into the bearings. Also, I'm not even sure what I'm going to do with the 5.0 after this anyway.

This Saturday, after my morning junkyard trip, and other chores, I pulled the last two engine to trans bolts and put a jackstand under the bellhousing to keep it from nosing down after I pull the motor away.

I have an engine leveler that I bought 15+ years ago when I rebuilt the engine in my comet. I also found some old lengths of chain and bolted the heads to the leveler. I found it odd that, while the two cylinder heads are identical, one end has 7/16" threaded holes and the other has 3/8" threaded holes. Looking at the motor from the front, the passenger side front is 3/8 and the driver's is 7/16. This only caused a small problem because my lifting chains were very tight fitting the 7/16 bolt through the link. The 3/8 went through easy, so I used a washer for extra security.



I was able to get the engine picked up a little and pulled forward to the point that the transmission slipped off fairly easy with a little pry bar.

At this point I realized that I still had the main ground wire and transmission cooler lines still bolted to the block. Had to undo one nut for the cooler, remove them, then unbolt the stud holding the ground cable.

I thought the combination of the leveler and the fact that most of the front engine parts were gone would mean that I could get the motor out without removing the hood. Turns out I couldn't.



With a little help from my older son, we were able to get the hood off and lifted over the engine hoist and safely set down out of the way.

Engine came out and over the radiator support with several inches to spare. I didn't even have to swap to smaller front tires.



I got it lowered down and onto my craigslist engine stand. I rolled it into the garage and put a giant garbage sack over it.



Next time I pull an engine, I will definitely open up the drain plugs in the block. I had a fair amount of coolant slosh out of the timing cover/water pump holes while it was swaying around on the hoist. Probably should have done that before even removing the intake.

I figure at some point in the next week I will drain the E4OD and remove it and the transfer case and get ready to put the ZF in there.
BigBlue 94, Dee and dash_cam like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-22-2018, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
No decent pics today. All I did was remove the torque converter, drain the pan, and disconnect the cooler lines.

When I dropped the pan, I had one long bolt that should have been in the valve body down in the pan. Not sure if I didn't torque it right the last time I had it off and it just worked loose or what. Trans shifted fine up until I quit driving it.

I also dug through the garage and found the ZF crossmember, another set of clutch pedals, and the manual tranny starter, among some various other bits.

If the weather cooperates tomorrow, after I come back from the junkyard, I'll drop the tranny crossmember and get the transmission out.
BigBlue 94 likes this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Today, I started off with my usual saturday ritual, and went to the junkyard. My goal there today was to find a master cylinder/switch assembly for my ZF, even though I found the one from my F250 in the garage last night. I made a mental note, and a few pictures, of the wiring that hooks to this switch.



Once I got home, I looked under the dash and found the right connector mounted near where it should be with some type of dead plug in it.



I'm glad Ford wired the interior of auto trucks for manual transmissions.
BigBlue 94 likes this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
After that, I decided to get that tired, old auto trans out of my way.

I wheeled out my atv jack, and with a healthy supply of lumber, was able to get it lifted up high enough to remove the crossmember.



Then I started to lower it down



Lower



Oops

Once I got it pulled out from under the bronco, I picked it up with the engine hoist and wheeled it back to the bed of the F150, so I could pull off the transfer case



BigBlue 94 and Bronco Al like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Then I pushed the hoist back into the garage to retrieve the ZF.



I thought it was a bit grungy, so I sprayed it with some engine degreaser and wire brushed it to get some of the crap off.



Then I attached the transfer case and picked it back up



I got the shift linkage hooked up and tested it out with the handle in place

BigBlue 94 and Bronco Al like this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 01:53 AM
MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
 
CDA 455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 43rd 'Gem' State
Posts: 1,504
Bronco Info: '94 XL/6"coils/1tonTRE Flip/Upgraded E4OD(To PSD specs)/2"rr lift blk/5100 Bilsteins/33"BFGs.
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Did I read that right?

5.72 1st gear?!!

μολὼν λαβέ

CDA 455 is offline  
post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 09:26 AM
Addicted to Junk
 
BigBlue 94's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hoyt, Kansas
Posts: 9,944
Bronco Info: 85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
iTrader: (7)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDA 455 View Post
Did I read that right?

5.72 1st gear?!!
Yes, yes you did. The reason I'll never drop my np435 is the 6.68 first gear. Slap it in first and it'll just creep
CDA 455 likes this.



309ci inline 6, 9.75:1 CR, Big Valves, ROLLER ROCKERS, Clifford intake and headers, Schneider 140H cam, DUI HEI ignition, 450 QFT 4bbl carb, Saginaw swap, FlowKooler water pump, Steel timing gears, 2.5in y-pipe into a single 3in cat and borla muffler.
BigBlue 94 is offline  
post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
I’m not overly concerned with the low low first gear as much as I about this transmission’s durability. I want to shift gears, but have read nothing good about the Mazda 5 speed’s durability behind anything with power, so it was either find a small block ZF, or an older 4 speed. I think I got a decent deal on this one, but because the engine in the parts truck was bad, I never did more than move it around in 1st gear in my driveway before I parted that truck out.
My short term goal here is to get everything put together the way I want it and make sure everything functions as it should, before I worry about any long term plans, such as a restoration where I pull it all back apart and rebuild everything.
CDA 455 likes this.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 12:16 PM
MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
 
CDA 455's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: 43rd 'Gem' State
Posts: 1,504
Bronco Info: '94 XL/6"coils/1tonTRE Flip/Upgraded E4OD(To PSD specs)/2"rr lift blk/5100 Bilsteins/33"BFGs.
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67galax View Post
Iím not overly concerned with the low low first gear as much as I about this transmissionís durability. I want to shift gears, but have read nothing good about the Mazda 5 speedís durability behind anything with power, so it was either find a small block ZF, or an older 4 speed. I think I got a decent deal on this one, but because the engine in the parts truck was bad, I never did more than move it around in 1st gear in my driveway before I parted that truck out.
My short term goal here is to get everything put together the way I want it and make sure everything functions as it should, before I worry about any long term plans, such as a restoration where I pull it all back apart and rebuild everything.
5.72=beautiful !!


50-100 to 1 is the ideal-range crawl ratio, IMHO.

With 100 to 1 be THEE ideal.

μολὼν λαβέ

CDA 455 is offline  
post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Before I started to install the ZF, I dug around in the garage and found the harness that came from the parts truck.

It was a 93, and OB1. It has only, I'm assuming, a reverse light plug, a transfer case plug, and an white oxygen sensor plug. All of this was in a single assembled harness with a single square plug.



My bronco, being a 96, automatic, and OBDII, had one harness, but two different plugs that connected to the vehicle. One square plug was 'the same' as the one on the harness I had that included the E4OD plugs, but the second was round. Looking closer at the wires, the round plug went to a blue oxygen sensor plug.



By my way of thinking, I could just take the round plug to the O2 sensor and separate it from the square harness with the plugs for the E4OD. So I opened it up and kept only the now 'simplified' O2 plug.



I figured that when I plug this modified one, and the original harness, into the bronco, they should do their job. Won't know until I fire it up, though.

If anyone happens to have a 1996 wiring diagram for a manual transmission, I would be in your debt.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-24-2018, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
Fullsize Member
 
67galax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southeast Iowa
Posts: 1,053
Bronco Info: 1996 XLT currently motorless, ZF5 trans, sitting on old 33's
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Questions

And here's where I need some help.

I have the original F250 ZF crossmember.



My question are:

Which way should this thing go?

If the ZF is shorter, should the offset be forward?

Is the crossmember supposed to go into existing holes?

I measured last night, and from the front of the bellhousing to the mount bolts, the ZF was about 25" and the E4OD was something over 28.

This would make me think that the offset should be pointing forward. If it were turned around, I'd have to move the crossmember way closer to the engine and probably drill new holes in the frame.

It's Hard To Beat A Good Sandwich
67galax is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Bronco Forum > Bronco Discussions > 78 - 96 Build Forum....Builds only

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Bronco Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. DO NOT USE Gmail.com accounts. If you only have a Gmail.com email please contact the administrator here

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome