Buck the Truck '78 Revival - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Got the new MC installed, now I'm about 1/2 way through drum brake job on the left rear (right will soon follow). I was kind of dreading it, watched a bunch of videos over and over, but man all that stuff came off QUICK after getting the drum off. pushing the adjuster locker to dis-engauge it to loosen the brakes was the hardest part, but once you get used to it, went quick.

So the new plan is to replace the parking brake cables, Wheel cylinders, and hardlines on the rear, clean up everything in general. All the springs and shoes are still newish, as me and my dad redid everything but the wheel cylinders not long before it was parked a few years ago. I think we skipped the wheel cylinders (they are bad and pitted as you can see in the pics) to avoid messing with the hard lines at the time. But now that I'm in the midst of making hard lines, the rears will be done. Rear flex line and hard line from the prop valve to the flex line will be done at a later time. I think I have a leaky axle seal on the left, it was pretty grimy. The diff still has fluid so i'm running it for now, might get them done later on. Parking brake cables should be here tomorrow. I've been having some issues with soft parking brake, but I think that is mostly due to the adjustment end of the front cable. Still I'm redoing them while in the drum for peace of mind.

My tips as a second timer are, get the HF brake tool kit and a stiff wire brush with a wood handle (like from the welding section). Get the Pro grade brake clean spray and don't breathe it in. Also old pizza boxes make perfect place to lay out tools and parts taken off the wheel. If need to make a hard line plug, snip it, crimp and bend it then reinstall. Also the rear axle vent has a nut under it that holds the rear hardline t block. if your fittings are rusty (like mine), consider removing the fitting and T block in order to get a line wrench on the brake fitting, or you may round it off.

I am an idiot and filled and bench bled the MC before doing the rear hardlines, so it was a constant drain until I bent and crimped it the rear left hardline like in the pic. If I had to do it over again, I'd save the MC for last. I borrowed a pressure bleed system from my cousin, but the attachment I need is $47 - a bit much for a one time use thing so I guess I'll enlist someone to pump and release when the time comes.

Hoping to be done with brakes by the weekend.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg parkingBrakeLineLeft.jpg (16.2 KB, 142 views)
File Type: jpg parkingBrakeLineSpringLeft.jpg (74.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg MCinstalled.jpg (60.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg reaDrumLeftTop.jpg (69.6 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg reaDrumLeftBottom.jpg (64.6 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg rearHardLines1.jpg (75.0 KB, 2 views)
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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So, got pretty much everything ready to bleed. My helper (dad) will be by tomorrow to pump the brakes. I'm so over drum brakes now. I did the left side first, that was a re-learning experience. I was thinking to myself, man, I should use a rachet strap to keep the shoes together and make putting the springs on easier, then I saw someone do that in a YT vid, so next time, that will be done. The HF brake tool kit did definatly make it a bit easier once I figured out what the hell I was doing and how to use the tools.

The only hickup I ran into was when doing the right side I realized it had a cap on the parking brake spring and I didn't remember having one on the left side. Refered to old pics before I touched anything and sure enough it was not there. It's just an anti-rattle bracket, hasn't been on there in who knows how many years so if I can't find one local parts store tomorrow, I'm gonna run it as is. You can see where it should be circled in red in the pic.

I painted the wheel cylinders because who the hell does that? And will be easy to spot ohh yeah that's been done by me and should be easy to spot if it starts leaking and eating the paint away. The hard lines down the axle weren't really near as bad as I thought they would be, the biggest part of that was removing the breather plug to get enough of a line wrench under the fittings to not strip them. Also, again with the coiled line, don't sweat getting it perfectly straight, its gonna be bent anyway. 5 minutes withy your thumbs by hand was plenty good enough for me.

I ran new raybestos parking brake cables. The stock ones were a bit of a pain to get out of the brake housing. I ended up using wire dykes to bend the little clip fingers back and forth until they broke off, then channel locks and flathead to wedge the rest through the hole. Replacements were much easier to install. I saved the line that runs from the footpedal in cab to join the other cables for another time down the road. Probably for when I clean up the underside a bit more, check/rerun wiring and make hardlines to run the rail.

As in pretty much everything else, it was a learning experience. There was some cursing trying to get all the springs jsut right on the drums, and that took a bit. I used the brake tool to set the top springs and lineman pliers to set the bottom spring above the self adjuster.

Assuming the bleeding goes well tomorrow, next will be steering stabilizer, front tires, and shocks all around.
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File Type: jpg rearLeftDrum.jpg (82.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg rearLeftParkingCable.jpg (62.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg rearHardLines2.jpg (78.9 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg wheelCyl.jpg (74.1 KB, 1 views)
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Got the brakes bled. They feel about the same as they did before, but I'm back on the road now and the MC isn't spraying fluid all over the engine bay. The fluid that was in the lines was a yellowish tint, but not near as bad as I had expected. I may just go ahead and run rear hardline and new flexline in the near future. Parking brake is MUCH better now, but I think that is mostly due to proper adjustment at the Y bracket under the truck. On to other stuff for now.

Next up: digging through old parts to find steering stabilizer brackets, new front tires
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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update. I ran the truck to a Milsurp shoot top off perfect weather and it did really well the whole way and back. I got to ride over the Lake Guntersville bridge with the top off - lets just say it was a great time and a long time coming. It really cruises 60-65 quite nicely and comfortably. I even got to use the armrests on the captain's chair. The range owner was excited to see the 78 and said he grew up with one back in the day that was green.

I just had a temp gauge go out that freaked me out a bit - thinking I was running it under temp. Installed new Robert Shaw high flow 333-180 in, and then new temp gauge as mentioned here:
here
and
here

Also I fixed an issue with popping in the exhaust under load by putting new plugs in.

I think I'm running a bit rich on the carb as I recently upped the jets. I have an AEM A/F gauge ready to install, just haven't had time. So that is next.
Here is short to do list:
A/F gauge
Jet carb for proper AF mixture
steering stabilizer
new front tires
Rework and install matching Visors
fix sticky throttle - have brass bushing for throttle plate
new shocks
Re-install wiper fluid box

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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Found that old egg crates are good to hold plugs for readings.
Got the AEM A/F gauge installed. Not the best mounting option, but lets just say I was determined to get this mounted in the truck.
Having some issues with a lean condition after it gets warmed up.
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File Type: jpg plugs.jpg (49.9 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg gaugeHousing.jpg (44.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg HotStartLean.jpg (42.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg HotStartRight.jpg (42.8 KB, 2 views)
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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update.
I've been fighting the AF gauge readings. It will start out on 14.7 then sweep up to max lean within 2 or three seconds. Hot start/cold start, all the same as far as I can tell. I got some copper gasket sealer and put it around the header collector ball joint. The shop put the bung in the collector a few inches before the ball joint, so I thought this might be leaking air and causing false reading. The nuts on the 3 bolts that hold the ball joint together were barely hand tight, so fixed all that and same thing for the AF gauge.

So today I checked timing. It was set to around 0 or maybe even a few deg. ATC. Thought that might be causing the lean problem, so spun the dist a bit to get 10 deg BTC and engine ran much better. Well that also didn't resolve the AF issue, same thing there..

So after that, I figured hey, I paid the shop to add the O2 bung in each side of the headers, so try switching sides and see what the AF gauge says there. I was thinking that maybe there was a header gasket leak on the drivers side. Switched the O2 sensor to the passenger side, ran the wires and such and you guessed it, same thing as far as the AF gauge goes. no change.

At this point a bit frustrated, I figured I needed some pedal time to see if it at least drove better with the ~15 deg of adv timing I put on it. It drove much better. I guess my bar is kinda low after driving it with a vacuum leak for years before it sat way back when, but man it runs better now than I can ever remember or before my DA took ownership and started messing with it. The whole time the AF gauge is pegged out lean "- - - " but it's hard to believe it runs that great while being so lean.

So the next thing I'm gonna check for the AF gauge is wiring - in my rush to get it in, there were some less than ideal wiring connections performed. I'm going to call the gauge mfg and see if they have anything to advise. If none of that works out, I'm gonna try the local shop again and see if they can spot WTH is going on with the AF mixture/gauge.

One other thing is recently I've gotten some sticky throttle on the carb. This is a long standing issue, but has gotten a bit worse recently. It will hold throttle when you let off the pedal, then you gouge it a bit and it will let loose. A couple months ago you could just barley feather the pedal to relase it and return to idle. It has 2 throttle return springs on the carb. I could add another, but that would just band-aid the issue. This carb is kind of old and has some play in the baseplate which I am guessing might play a role to the sticky throttle. Any other quick tips to free it up, please let me know.

Freaking AF gauge!!! why wont you just work like I paid summit to have you do...

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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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more good and bad...
Front passenger tire has been wearing out lately, it was bald on the outside edge. It finally showed wire and bulged out about a mile from home last week. I've been waiting to get the last matching sawblade rim off the parts truck before replacing the tire. Family went to visit dad this pas weekend (host to the parts truck), so perfect timing for that.

Bushogged a bit on the side of ol rusty and swapped the wheel. Dug around in the basement and found more lost parts. A complete seal kit, an NIB Auto meter Fuel gauge, and the old instrument cluster from the parts truck.

Called around and found a pair of goodyear mud grapplers 33x15s for 80$ each, so got them installed on the fronts. Now have matching wheels at least, but, as freaking luck would have it, I now have a bit of vibration coming from the front right wheel. Its the general hum-hum-hum on the highway at speed, but when putting the brakes on it feels like the tire has some bumps on it. The tires are in really great condition with 89-90% tread left and look fine. I took the new tire/rim off and replaced it with a steel wagon wheel rim and tire that was on the left side and got the same vibration issue, gets bad under hard braking.

The only thing I can think it might be when putting the sawblade rim and new tire on the first time, I hand tightened the lugnuts, but rolled to the back of the driveway before really torqueing them down. IDK if that's what may have caused the issue or not. Could be that it needs new brake pads, as it feels kind of notchy, but I didn't have the problem before changing wheels.

The funny part of all this is when I was putting the new wheel on the first time, I had the wheel standing next to me next to the passenger door in the garage. I went and jacked the truck up and got the old wheel off and turned around to put the new one on and it was GONE! I mean WTH it was right here. I looked in the garage, in the driveway, in the hard, in the street and finally spotted it in standing up the neighbors grass across the street. Lesson learned. Pics coming
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Gahhhh!!! more shit to do to fix this old truck...
So closer inspection of the front right wheel revealed that there were a couple of loos lug studs. I do remember the PO that had this axle replaced a couple, and they are shorter than normal and they are also the ones that are loose. IDK what would cause them to come loose, but may have been me rolling the 20 ft to the end of the driveway with the lug nuts hand tight. All the other ones appear GTG. I put the new wheel/tire back on with the lugs really tight and went on a quick test drive and when braking it pulls to the right with vibration. This side is also the side that I installed the stage 8 locking retainer nut on as well. I think I did that right, but will check the bearings while I'm in there. So looks like I'm gonna get to dig back into front hubs <sarcasm>heck yeah!</sarcasm>.

Did make some progress on the A/F gauge, wired it up with a switched constant power (not by the key on power), and it still did the same thing (start at normal reading, then lean out off the gauge). Pulled the sensor out of the exhaust and did a rag test and same thing. Called AEM and sending it back to them for testing, so we'll see how that goes.

And... to top it all off, I went to put the top back on the other day and the rear window motor wont push the window up even with assistance - it will still go down though. So yeah, get to do that as well. I know there's tons of threads on that process that I have happily skipped over, but now I get to dive into that as well. I think I'll paint the chips around the window edge, add new rear window seals, and replace the steel cable hangers on the sides while I'm at it (one side is rusted and busted). No shortage of work to be done here.
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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Tailgate fixed for now- potential disaster averted. Got the window up using dash switch. Greased the regulator and the slide tracks. PO had a rubber mat over the stock access panel so I was dreading what was underneath, but it was actually not that bad.
also a pic of the new used front tires I got installed.
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File Type: jpg tailgateWindow.jpg (44.9 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg frontWheels.jpg (69.4 KB, 3 views)
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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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A bit more progress, but still more to do...
The list stays the same length, it just gets get stuff marked off the top and added to the bottom.

Got some great news Thursday. AEM fixed my AF gauge and included a new O2 sensor and it will be here Monday! Normally they don't warranty sensors (they are like $80), but the head CS agent approved it as a one time deal. Got my wiring tuned up a little bit better. I just removed the heater from under the dash. I'm planning on doing more wiring and redoing my gauges soon, so I said to hell with it and took it out. It was leaking antifreeze from the heater core before I parked it years ago. I can't even remember ever turning the heater on or ever needing to. This will be more of a fun in the sun truck, so it won't be missed. But I will miss fishing wires through the firewall and around that big hunk of plastic - NOT! Now there is a huge gaping hole and easy access for dash wiring, which means I can start filling it up with more rats nest! I got to get some sheet metal trimmed to cover up the gaping hole that the blower motor mounted in too.

Now the only thing I really need in the center of the dash is the rear window switch, so I'm about 98% on taking that whole block out and adding the Acc fuse panel, or switch panel right there. Other thoughts are to mount it to a board under the glove box and add a hinge to let it swing down for easy access.

I also did the DIY alignment because of the new used tires. They were already 1/2" towed in, I didn't have to touch a thing as far as adjustment. It really drives pretty good, so I learned a thing or two on that and saved $50. I did have to fish the tape measure over the control arms when taking the rear measurement, but it really was no big deal.

current to do list:
Clean and touch up paint hood
Polish rims
Polish visor mounts and stitch up visors and install
Get gauge lights working again
Add AF gauge
Tune carb
Reinstall rear tailgate rubber mat
Reinstall washer fluid reservoir
Get top off for the 4th
Redo front hub - again...
touch up rust spots and paint
New air filter
Redo rear interior panels
Finish door panels
Headliner and headliner trim
Driver side floorpan
rear window motor rebuild
install weatherstipping kit

That's about all I can think of for now.

Throwing in a topless pic from a few weeks ago on the way to the range. It was a great day, perfect weather, great trip, tons of fun. The rangemaster was oogling the old ford.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg heaterGone.jpg (43.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg SwitchedAccessoryRelay.jpg (95.0 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg alignmentBack.jpg (48.0 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg alignment.jpg (49.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg alignmentFront.jpg (62.9 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg woodallLookout_topless.jpg (38.1 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg guntersville_topless.jpg (50.8 KB, 3 views)
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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 06:11 PM
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I just found is thread. Awesome truck and awesome job with the thread. I love the dent sides. I have had a bunch of em and currently own a 79 250 ext cab 4wd. Good job keeping her in the family and on the road! Subscribed!

Common sense will NOT be tolerated!

My kind of crazy is contagious!
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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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thanks dude, still learning a lot. more to come.

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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Great news! the AEM A/F gauge is in and working! and my guesstimate jetting is not off the charts (all decent and on the gauge)!
More details in this thread

Also, I got one side of the blue/chrome visors done and should have the other one done and in the truck this evening. That's a project I've been putting off for a while. They will both be HAND STITCHED while watching car shows on DiscoveryGO (Dirty Mudder Truckers and Bad Chad Customs).

Soon to be diving into carb jetting, nothing I'm afraid of, but I've never done it with and actual A/F guage, so should be easy street now.
more pics and vids coming soon.
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Independence update!
Got finished with my chrome and blue vinyl visors today and got them in. Still need one screw that PO stripped out on the mount. I used old visors from the parts truck and replaced the fiberglass rod on the end with some round aluminum I found at tractor supply. Because I got in a bit of a hurry to remove the old stitching and covers, I ripped one of the foam pieces. I found some 1/4" foam padding inf the fabric section at wally world. traced it out, cut it out. Then cut the blue vinyl fabric about 1/2" extra and stitched it in by hand. That part was a pain, but there were some parts that I don't think a non industrial sewing machine would have done. Not the best stitching job, but still WAAAY better than the crusty white ones that were in it. There's a white headboard and headboard trim I need to tackle next. But there's not a white piece of trim in the whole dang truck. I have some chrome headboard trim that I can clean up and install, but I'll need some type of blue headboard. It might just get a cool flag for the time being. On to other stuff for now.

Polished the wheels with diet coke and aluminum foil. for rusted chrome I'm sold on this technique!

Also got the hood washed and some lighter blue metalic paint on the bad spots. Its not great, but still way better than the grey primer cheetah spots and rusted sections. good enough to blur with speed or cover with mud!

Hoping to make some short runs with the top off today.

Have fun and enjoy your freedom Today! Don't forget what it takes to celebrate what we have and those that fight and die to keep it.
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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Build Update:

It's been a while, but I've got a few things done. Got the truck back from the shop about the hubs and wheel bearings. The left needed a new seal and the stage 8 locking ring installed. The right needed to be adjusted (I tried a few times and never could get it right). They said the stage-8 lockrings were a pain to adjust, but they were both in. Also hubs lock now. Apparently I had a couple pieces backward during the ball joint replacement ~5 years ago.

The two main running problems I'm having are bucking (just off idle), and sticky throttle. I thought both of these would be caused by old carb leaky throttle plates. The shop also looked at the carb and made some initial adjustments. The sticky throttle is way worse, so I couldn't tell if the bucking is gone or not.

So, I ordered the 89$ amazon 2100 special carb and got it on yesterday. It seems decent, but having problems getting the fast idle to set the idle low enough. The sticky throttle is much reduced, but still very much present. I could not get the idle down low enough, I would adjust the idle RPM screw til there was no spring tension and it would still idle at 1100. Messed with the idle air screws, same thing. Then one time from the engine bay I really snapped the throttle open and it fell back to low idle and died. Also when it was idling, it was way lean (thanks to the AEM A/F gauge), but as soon as your on the throttle, its way rich.

The jets in it were 48.5's if anyone cares, I swapped the 54s I had into it. It doesn't run as good as the old carb though. First order of business is to fix the sticky throttle.

I did manage to get to the parts truck and pull the Rad core, hood and radiator in preparation for parting/scrapping the parts truck. Going again this weekend and hope to get the fenders off and maybe pull the engine.

There's still more than a few things to wrap up in this truck (headliner, interoior panels, wiring), but I don't want to get too much farther into it for now. Once the parts truck is gone, the plan is to park the bronco for a while and start on a '58 Studebaker pickup with a 351W. So, I don't want to throw a bunch of $$$ on the bronco as it could be used on the truck.

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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-05-2019, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Not many pics, but fair amount of work pulling parts off Ol' rusty this weekend.

I got to hand it to my dad, he's a tough old man, I doubt I'd be able to do it without him helping.

We cut the exhaust, pulled the xfer case crossmember, Driveshaft was already out, pulled the xfer case.
Took a break and then went back at it and removed the shifter cover, motor mounts, starter and a few wires. Chained it to a backhoe and pulled the motor and trans out.

So now I have probably one more trip to get everything else I want to keep.

This week will be spent working out the throttle linkage and messing with carbs.

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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-14-2019, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Back to running again..
Few updates. I was floundering between the 89$ amazon special and the good old 2100 that I had been running. The 2100 has an irregular fuel fitting in the front that I lost and is hard to find. I had stripped out the threads years ago and got a machine shop to work it in. That carb also has no choke/fast idle/kickdown lever (all crap IDC about), larger venturis,/jets, ran great, lots of power, but I need that stupid inlet barb. huh...
Local race shop, and Lowes was a bust. drove home Defeated...
The amazon carb on the other hand is new, seemed to run great, but it has the smaller venturis/jets. It also has all the crap I don't care about choke/fast idle/kickdow lever. The only problem I really had with this carb is that I had no good way to utilize the choke and get the buttterfly to open up besides just manually adjusting it that way. My truck had the hot air choke tube, which I had removed a while back. I bought a manual choke kit, but decided not to use it. I was about to try the electric choke route, and noticed that the choke unit has a blade for a 12v spade, and started looking for the soldering stuff. huh... need this and that and blah blah, I came across all the old Hot air choke tubes and then decided to try going that route instead.. I blew out the lines (which I assumed were clogged, but they werent), put the air to one hole of the coil in the intake and it blew our the other, so that was GTG. A bit of cleaning and touch up paint, and the hot air choke tubes were on.

Ok, Time to test. Idled up, ran OK, did some tweaking to the low RPM and idle air screws while bringing it up to temp, then a bit more at temp and she runs really good and the choke opens up and works great. It runs great, very smooth, idles great, I'm stoked.

Checking the A/F gauge, it is running right at 14-/15 idle, but cruising around in 3rd or 4th at 1800rpms the AF gauge is reading 10-12. So... I got some more tweaking to do, but I'm on the right track. I will say that it was VERY nice starting with the idle air mixture screws all the way in and watching the AF gauge lean out - shut it off, make AF adjustments and then check again actually seeing good results.

After a while it was idling and running great at temp for about 10 mins while I got ready for a test run. It ran great as expected, but it doesn't quite have the power of the old 2100. I put that out of my head as I did a few doughnuts in the gravel parking lot down the road a ways. THEN IT DIED! CRAP! WTF!

I get out and check under the hood, everything looks normal, except the $10 summit special fuel gaugue I put right in front of the carb. it was on 0. no fuel... hmmm. I'll just walk over to that gas station and fill up my spare jerry can- WTF! Its gone, left on the lawn mower. CRAP! Walk to the gas station grabbed a paper cup and $0.35 of gas. just a capfull down the throat and she fired right up. and I went on my way. Learned today that low fuel and donuts are not a great combo. I made it to a nice place to watch the 2nd half of the Bama game. What a great day!

So.... this has me inspired to jump back in it. I also have shelves in the garage now and more space to get things done. I will be doing some tweaking on the carb (smaller mains), wiring, interior over the next couple weeks and then try finishing parting out the parts truck.

Cant wait to drive this pig to work on Monday, topless hopefully.
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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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So, last week when driving front work, I noticed a wobble from the front right wheel. Felt like notchy brake pads at first and then got progressively worse. That needs to be diagnosed and fixed for sure.

Moved on to other stuff/interior. Pulled the old headliner out, cleaned up the roof area and painted with white primer, then blue metallic. Got out the old chrome headliner trim and hit it with a round of coca cola in a spray bottle and a wad of tin foil. It was already pretty good, but the back side needed a bit of rust removal. So I have those 4 trim pieces ready to put up. I ordered a ford racing flag to use as the headliner for now (cheap simple, better than it was).

Pulled the passenger side door panel off in preparation to rework it. I have some great ideas for interior panels coming up!

Also added a couple of items to the list to pull off the parts truck:
Parts to Pull off Rusty
front framehorns (cut)
Hood letters
Tank Skidplate
Rear Bumper
Tailgate
Tire Carrier
Racetrack trim
Steering wheel
Badges
Dome light
FR and Re Axles.
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Investigated the front right tire wobble. Seems like a bearing gone. Will take it back to the shop that did it after a few other things get done.

Interior/gauge Wiring - I've put this off for a while, but ordered some more supplies to do it right. I got my gauge lights to work last night which was a start. I'm leaning to putting all the aftermarket gauges in a horizontal panel on the top of the dashpad. That way the stock gauges will remain and all the other stuff will be right in front of your face. I'm going to remove the center panel area on the dash and put a series of switches there, and I have an ACC fuse panel that will be hidden under the dash. I've removed the heater box so I have tons more extra room to make it not quite as bad of a job.

Also, I'm going to try some American walnut door/interior panels. What can I say, I'm a big fan of walnut and hot steel, so gonna sling some $$ at some lumber and try to take this thing a level up. Currently I have homemade door panels with vinyl and some white oak runners, but they are just waaaay too bright and clash too bad. My neighbor gave me a good nutrivet tool, so saved a few bucks there, just had to buy the rivets (no one has them locally - lowes/HD/grainger). Well. grainger had some but wanted like $5 each haha, I got a goooood laugh out of that.

I'm hoping to match the door panels with the rear interior panels. I'm going to finish the panels with PTO, so if it gets scratched/chipped, easy repair. I'm still up in the air on Brass screws or chrome screws, or just paint the heads to match the wood.

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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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4 bbl carb came in - will be siting a little bit before I dive into that intake conversion mess.

Got supplies for wiring/door panels. Got lumber for the interior trim panels. spent about 90$ for 5 good walnut planks. Installed rivet nuts into three of the top screwholes in the passenger side door. got the first piece of plank up, that was my goal for this weekend. Just get the top board up and on.

It was a constant struggle. First off wife ordered it a day late, so I was thinking it would be there Friday/Sat and I'd have all day to mess with it and get it done, but it actually cam Sunday morning. I was feeling sick like crap by then, but I got the first board up!

The rivet nut tool seems to work really well except for pulling the rivet off the tool after the rivet is set home. It keeps the threads and don't 'let go' of the threads inside the rivet. I think I might look for some of the smaller options that you can use with just box end wrenches. the smaller profile seems like it would be good to get in nooks and crannies and such.

pics to come...

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