1995 EB build - Everything comes in three's... - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post
I also ran into trouble with the BBK headers. They didnt match up to my Y pipe not even close. The muffler shop had to cut and weld in new flanges because the Y pipe flanges were too small. Also, I used Stage 8 locking fasteners and on one position I had to heat and beat the pipe to get enough clearance for the retainer ring to fit. Very disappointing. BY the time I was done modifying it I could have gotten a Bassani Y pipe and headers.
Yeah, the BBK's are going back. Already ordered the JBA's. So the seller, a large, well-reviewed shop on Ebay, after I started the return process they sent me a message through Ebay. Basically "Did you call BBK? We don't normally stock these so it will cost use money to take these back."

Really? I responded with - BBK says deal with the retailer. We'll see what happens. Good thing it's Ebay and Paypal.

So I installed the Rough Country front sway bar drop kit today. I found it on Ebay for $44 shipped and the seller turns out is 15 minutes from me. They have a store front - speed shop / 4wd shop - ended up getting it for $35. Heck yeah. It's nice to have a local place that keeps stock.

The previous owners, somewhere along the line, used 3" bar stock and made their own drop brackets. That's fine - I make stuff all the time - problem is the sway bar needs to be dropped and moved FORWARD and they just dropped it. They also installed the bolt on one of the dog bones BACKWARDS. Between that and the bar not being moved forward, it actually dented the bottom of the shocks (quad shocks) in front of the axle.

The Rough Country kit bolted right on. Dropped it further and moved it forward off the shocks. Went and drove the truck and put gas on it.

Truck has a decent alignment on it. The adjustable camber bushing I bought will get the camber and caster closer to the sweet spot - but it's not off really bad. It seemed to really want to wander. There is definite play in the steering box - it isn't in the column. Not sure if the steering stabilizer (aftermarket installed by previous owner) is helping or hurting.

Got back to the shop - checked the pressure in the tires - and it has 40 PSI in 3 and 30PSI in one.

Set 'em to 35psi. I'll take another drive tomorrow before I start the engine tear down.

Talked to a friend of mine - who wrenches on 4x4's daily - and we talked about aftermarket steering boxes - and while he had positive feedback on Blue top and Redhead - he also said for the money it was hard to beat a AC Delco Professional box. Apparently they replace the bearings and seals.

I know about 4 bolt boxes etc. For what the truck will do - I think a OEM replacement will be good - considering I can get it for $120 shipped after core charge refund.

Also need to check to see if there is slop in the axle pivot bushings as well. He told me these can cause the TTB to wander over the road. He said try these first if mine look halfway bad.
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post #22 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 10:17 PM
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I too am transferring parts from 1996 to a 1993
1996 is wrecked in the front and bent frame
1993 has no rust -from Arizona

What part of Va you live in ?
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post #23 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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I too am transferring parts from 1996 to a 1993
1996 is wrecked in the front and bent frame
1993 has no rust -from Arizona

What part of Va you live in ?
Not too far from you. Edge of Henrico county on some land near the airport.
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post #24 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I went back out and crawled under the truck and look over the suspension closely.
The front quad shocks look like they've been in there since the lift was installed - and that's been a while. The lower shock bushings on both pairs are shot, and of course I mentioned early the badly mounted / moved front sway bar had actually damaged the lower shock bodies of the two shocks in front of the axle.

Axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings look good. I know looks can be deceiving - especially being the truck is 24 years old....but to me it makes since to replace the stuff I know is bad.

So the next suspension piece is going to be front shocks (All four), front sway bar bushings and endlinks and rear sway bar end links / bushings.

I'll go from there.
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post #25 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Ended up going with the BDS shocks from JBG. $170 shipped for all four shocks up front.
Will update the difference once they are installed.

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post #26 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 02:43 PM
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Sounds like you're doing a fine Job. I look forward to seeing some pics in the end.
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post #27 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Got under the truck and checked things over.

The front shocks are shot. The lower bushings are pretty much gone. The rear sway bar end link bushings are shot.
The rear shocks are the appropriate Skyjacker 7000 Hydro shocks and look new.

The radius arm bushings look like they were replaced when the lift was installed. I'll throw poly bushings on the list but not towards the top.





Found this weird, welded - sort of - bracket on the passenger side inner frame rail. Strange. Anyone seen anything like it?





And my transmission leak looks to be coming from where the transfer case mounts up...add that gasket to the lift. Straight forward enough - drop the drive shafts, 5 bolts and drop the transfer case. Replace the gasket.









Considering dropping the drive shafts off at a local place that rebuilds them and balances them. Got to drop them anyway.

Still can't believe how clean this thing is underneath. Hit it with the pressure washer and some engine cleaner after the pics were taken....hopefully it will allow me to get a better look at the axle pivot bushings. Hard to see with the axle pivot brackets.
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post #28 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Realize my truck hadn't had the Cruise Control switch recall done yet. Just ordered in on Amazon (less than a $1 more expensive than Rock Auto and free shipping). The cruise control system IS installed on the '95. I'm an idiot. Apparently when you are going back and forth between 2 different Bronco's engine compartments checking things out - it pays to remember one is a XL with no cruise from the factory.

JBA headers should be here tomorrow. Supposed to get a return label for the BBK headers (through Ebay / Paypal) by tomorrow. If it doesn't show, I'll just initiate a refund with Paypal.

Scored a REALLY good deal on a new Autometer Sport-Comp Electric Oil pressure gauge:

https://www.autometer.com/2-oil-pres...port-comp.html

For the inevitable posts to come about not trusting electric gauges - gauges have come a long way in the past 20 years. Also, I've had both copper and braided oil pressure line fail on mechanical oil pressure gauges. Hot oil inside a vehicle sucks. Especially when it sprays it all over the underside of the dash and wiring.

So I was looking for a matching electric Autometer Temperature gauge and scored it and a direct fit 2 gauge pod for the Bronco for a good deal:

https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-dua...ies-92-97.html

I think I've decided to wait on the tear down on the engine until the front (4) shocks I ordered get here. Want to get them installed and see how the ride is and go from there.

Ordered them yesterday from JBG - I've never dealt with them, so not sure how fast they ship.

This thread is more for me than anyone else - much easier than keeping a notebook like I've done with past projects. Easy to get sidetracked with so many areas I need to go over and troubleshoot.

Also found a local guy parting out a '95 - so I have a line on a cheap set of gauges with tach. '94 and up gauge clusters are different simply because of the SRS / Airbag system. Really want to get that taken care of and see if there are any codes being thrown I need to address.

Also need to check the fill plug on the transfer case and see if it's over filled - that would definitely tell me the transfer case input shaft seal is bad - and that would definitely explain the ATF leak.
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post #29 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Last night I ended up on my creeper with the electric pressure washer (didn't use my gas pressure washer, I wanted to leave the paint on ) and I was honestly surprised how the old girl looked halfway cleaned up.

REALLY Straight and I can't get over it being so rust free and it spent time on the Coast too.

Of course I did find a crappy fender bender repair (no rust repair) likely YEARS old. Small bit of filler cracking around front wheel well. Took the trim off and checked behind - nope - no rust or major damage, just a lazy body repair guy. So I'll sand that down and straighten it and smooth it out.

Thinking about painting the top and stripes - changing to a gray or silver. The Top and the drip rails have a few spots down to primer / metal.




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post #30 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Got some more pics today after cleaning it a bit last night.
So it looks like the axle pivot bushings "shell" or heat shield was tack welded to the beam:



A wider look:



I ordered some Energy suspension bushings where I can reuse the outer shell, but wondering how this will mess with the install

On the plus side I don't think the brackets are going anywhere:










Got the JBA headers in. Mocked it up with the JEGS off road pipe. Much better.



Noticed some wear on the radium arms bushings as well. Had to look really close, but I'd rather do it all once than go back at it.

Will order energy suspension bushings here as well. Since my brackets are drop brackets and they are bolted in - I'll just try to break the nut loose, then just unbolt the bracket, drop it, replace the bracket and hopefully move on.
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post #31 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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So after searching I was almost sure that the Black Energy Suspension Poly replacement bushings for the Axle Pivot Bushings reused the OEM metal shell. Got them in last night. Nope, they come with their own metal shell. I'd rather not fight this thing. Turns out the Prothane bushings:

6-601
or 6-601 BL for black bushings - use the OEM metal shell when replacing the Axle pivot bushings. Turns out the local 4 wheel parts store stocks them. Will get my GF to pick them up for me today. I want ALL the parts on hand when I start tearing into things.

I can't STAND having to stop to order a part or go get a bolt etc etc. From my experience it adds WAY too much time to a project.

That being said, the shocks from JBG arrive today. I'll go today and pick up a couple of 5/8" short bolts to block off the EGR ports in the back of the cylinder heads, pick up some new Grade 8 9/16" bolts for the axle pivot bushings as well as a 1/4" pipe extension and Tee for the oil pressure sender port on the block. That way I can keep the factory "Gauge" and also plumb in the electric Auto meter gauge I bought.


The MINT door panels I scored from a junkyard in WI came in. They WERE mint. Before they got cracked in shipment. No packing material and they really didn't fit into the box. Already emailed pics to the junkyard and they do a lot of online / shipping parts so here's hoping I won't have to do a charge back on my card.

There is a local guy parting a '95 Bronco - I can score the gray panels out of that cheap and between the multiple sets, I'll plastic weld and fill and paint to come up with a good front set.

Last parts order for a while (hopefully) coming up shortly after I tear into the tailgate and see what parts I need.

Will start with axle pivot bushings tomorrow after work. I've read and searched a TON - and apparently the easiest way to do them is one arm at a time - with the tires on the ground and the suspension neutralized (rolling the truck back and forth before starting). I will give that a shot first.

The radius arm bushings (I ordered black poly) I'm not too worried about. I'm going to just put a jack under the arm, break the nut loose - then drop the entire drop bracket since it's bolted on.

After that I'll get the new shocks on, the new front sway bar dog bones and rear end links (they are toasted) and see how it drives. If I'm satisfied at that point, I'll start engine tear down then after it's back up and running, I'll take it to the alignment shop with the 2.75 degree adjustable camber bushings to see if they can shoot for these specs:

Left Camber = 0
Right Camber = -.5
Left Caster 4
Right Caster 4.5
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post #32 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Got off early, looking forward to getting home and throwing the new shocks on the front of the Bronco...so of course it started raining. Plan is to get up early in the morning and start with the new shocks and see how that effects how it drives down the road.

4 wheel parts of course didn't actually have the Prothane axle pivot bushings in stock - luckily I called. So I ordered 'em through Amazon and they'll be here tomorrow evening.

The Autometer 2 gauge pillar pod replacement arrived and I went ahead and ordered a new alternator and a new starter. With all new stuff going on the front of the engine, I'd rather just do it now and not have to touch it later.

I'll throw up some pics tomorrow once I start making actual progress.
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post #33 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Made some progress yesterday. Got the 4 new front shocks on.



I"d say it was about time.



You can barely see where the shock body was modified to clear the spring. This is even in the instructions for the Superlift kit. The new shock bodies were thinner and fit just fine.



The drop pitman arm. Thinking about ordering the one that drops it even more. That would make my steering linkage sit almost perfectly horizontal.



This is the worst rust on the underside of the truck. Yes - I'm pleased.



New vs old. Looks tight, but the clearance on the spring was good.

Front swaybar stayed off for the test drive because I got sent two left end links. Drives better. Still wanders a bit much for me. Took off the large steering stabilizer and took another drive. Steering immediately was lighter. Not as heavy handed. Returned to center much better - but still a bit 'jumpy' for me.

Next up is axle pivot and radius arm bushings - it needs them regardless.

After that is full alignment with the adjustable camber bushings. If it's still not up to my standards, I'll likely replace the tires (they have some mild dry rot on them anyway but no abnormal or heavy wear etc).
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post #34 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Got the driver's side axle pivot bushing replaced.
I've read tons of different threads / posts and ways people go about doing it and I did it a bit differently.
I didn't jack the truck up. I rolled it back and forth a bit in neutral, trying to unload the suspension as best I could. It might be totally wrong or useless, but that's what I decided to try.

I put a floor jack under where the driver's side axle pivot bushings bolts in....just enough to try and take off tension. Heated the bolt up a bit, not long, and hit it with the impact and the bolt came right out. Axle beam dropped.



The bushing was in pretty bad shape:



Not enough room to get in on that bushing with my ball joint press. So I drilled out the the rubber bushing that holds in the metal sleeve in the middle. Then I was able to knock out the metal sleeve. Then I used a screwdriver to get the old rubber out of the sleeve.

Now this is where I cost myself a BUNCH of time. Instead of running to the store and getting the right attachments for my dremel to clean the rubber out of that sleeve, I tried all sorts of different things. I should have went straight and gotten what I needed.

Once I made the trip to the store, the wire / abrasive wheel attachment on the Dremel made short work of the old bushing and I was able to get the sleeve totally smooth and clean. Lubed up the new bushing, pressed it in, put the new metal sleeve in and put the outer bushing / cap on it.

Now the fun part.

Tried to jack up the axle beam and the bolt hole was just off enough to not let me get the bolt in.

Finally jacked up the driver's side, frame on a jack stand, took the tire off and let the suspension droop. What I learned was it's very particular where you need to jack up as a pivot point to line it all up. I jacked up under the driver's rotor, using a block of wood on the jack, and I was able to get the beam lined up enough to knock the bolt right through and get the new bushing installed.

I'll attack the passenger side tomorrow night. I think I'll jack up the passenger side, remove the tire, let the suspension droop, remove the old bushing and go from there.
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post #35 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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While I had the truck apart and crawling under it - one of the rotors are toasted on the back side. I knew the brake pads needed replacing, but it needs rotors too.
With the miles on the truck and the fact I don't trust previous owners, looks like I'm ordering some more parts.

I like to take things apart ONCE if possible, and since I don't know the complete maintenance history of this truck..

- New rotors
- New brake pads
- New inner and outer wheel bearings and seals

I'm debating on just ordering new spindle bearings / seals and doing it all while I'm in there.

Gotta check the build date on the '95 to see if it's 2 piece wheel seals or not.

Well on the bright side, I'll know the entire front suspension is new.
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post #36 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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And I got the 4WD working in the '95. I had a couple of extra 4wd switches and they didn't do anything. I've been working on different things and simply didn't get around to messing with it.

I briefly looked at the fuse box in the '95 and it was missing the relay in spot #12. Of course that control electronic 4WD among other things. Swapped in the relay from the '93 EB and the truck switches in and out of 4WD with no problem. Engage 4LOW as well (of course in Neutral) but doesn't make a rather loud clunk only when engaging 4LO - and no weird noises with it locked in a driving around the yard.
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post #37 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 01:27 AM
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Hopefully it's not too late now, but if one rotor is chewed up on one side, that's an indication of a faulty/sticking caliper. If I had seen that, I'd be inclined to replace it, if not both callipers. And that's a perfect time to inspect brake lines and hardware, too.

And I suggest doing all the bearings and seals, if you can. I've been caught doing the minimum but having to grab a couple unexpected extras to finish.

I was trying to figure out which configuration I had on mine and ended up settlng on the Dana branded spindle bearing kit. Everything was included and for perfectly.
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post #38 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hopefully it's not too late now, but if one rotor is chewed up on one side, that's an indication of a faulty/sticking caliper. If I had seen that, I'd be inclined to replace it, if not both callipers. And that's a perfect time to inspect brake lines and hardware, too.
Not too late. Didn't get to touch the Bronco last night after work (downside to owning land is having to cut grass LOL) I did however verify the build date on the Bronco - 12/94. So hopefully that means I don't have those odd two piece wheel seals.

Doing the final price comparison this morning between Rockauto, Amazon and Ebay.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dash_cam View Post
And I suggest doing all the bearings and seals, if you can. I've been caught doing the minimum but having to grab a couple unexpected extras to finish.

I was trying to figure out which configuration I had on mine and ended up settlng on the Dana branded spindle bearing kit. Everything was included and for perfectly.
Way ahead of you

I hate having to take something apart more than once to replace wear items that I should have replaced the first go round.

Replacing the following:

- Calipers
- Pads
- Rotors
- Front brakes lines
- Inner and outer wheel beaings
- Wheel seals
- Wheel studs (these have seen MUCH better days)

I'm also trying to decide on which spindle bearing / seal kit to buy.

Rockauto lists the Timken SBK4:

Bearing B2110, Seals 722108, 722109 and Ring price at $13, I'm assuming I'll need two.

I did see the Dana parts:

Dana DS707316 at $23 each.

Everything I can find has it containing the full spindle "rebuild" kit for one side, same as the Timken.

I hope to get everything ordered today. That way I can do the RH axle pivot bushing tonight, the Radius arm bushings Thursday or Friday ( I hope it won't be a big fight. Since I have a lift already, that means the radius arm drop brackets are bolted on. I'm hoping to break the radium arm nut loose, break out the impact and drop the bracket, replace the bushing and bolt it back up. Guess we'll see how that goes LOL) then start tearing down the hubs / brakes etc on Saturday morning.

I want to get the truck driving like I thing it should before I tear the engine down and get that all squared away.

I'm debating on doing outer u-joints while I have it torn down that far.

Thanks for the input.

Still wondering why the #12 relay was missing from the fuse panel when the 4WD seems to work without issue. It's got me thinking - since one of the receipts from a previous owner (posted earlier in this thread) mentions the shop installed a locker and gears. I'm wondering if they regeared the rear end and didn't mess with the front diff. I need to do a quick rotation / tire check on the rear driveshaft to see if the gears have been swapped from the stock 3.55's....

Also the tailgate works just fine. Apparently they totally bypassed the switches by running wires to the motor. Popped those on a battery - works fine. I'll likely gut the tailgate, replace / repair any wiring / switches and do seals at the same time.

God I love previous owners.
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post #39 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 10:49 AM
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the dana kit i used is what you found. i don't remember the details but i was concerned about the parts being the right fit.

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post #40 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well I paid a bit for convenience / speed since I want to tear the front axle / hubs down on Saturday morning hopefully.

Ordered:

- calipers
- rotors
- pads
- Inner and Outer wheel bearings
- Extended splined lug nut set (current on aftermarket are mismatched and in bad shape)
- Spicer replacement ujoints for the front axles - that way they are on hand once I'm in there
- Wheel seals

After a TON of digging around the Motorcraft catalog, Rock auto, timken and Ford OEM parts - I'll just pick up the Spindle seals / bearings (if needed) locally. The part numbers jump around based on production year (mine is late '94) and whether or not the truck has auto or manual hubs - mine has Warn Manuals installed somewhere along the way.

So it'll easier to take the old spindle seals and match them up at the napa down the road from me - they have all the different ones in stock.
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