1995 EB build - Everything comes in three's... - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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So I emailed Jasper about any recommendations or requirements (to retain warranty) on their rebuilt E4OD transmission for the Bronco - since that's what's in the '95.
Got this reply back:

"JASPER send out a larger cooler with our E4OD transmissions. The lines are also upgraded to a 3/8 for higher flow. We highly recommend the larger cooler to be installed rather than an auxiliary in addition to the stock cooler."

I replied to see if they convert the fittings in the transmission itself to accept 3/8" line - because that's what it looks like looking at the lines currently installed in the '95.

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post #62 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Got the old u joint out of the RH axle. Short work with a hammer and a couple of sockets






New vs old. Spicer lasted for 24 years and 250k miles so good enough for me





Same pair of sockets and a few minutes later



Got the LH axle ready to install. RH axle soaking in parts cleaner.

Got my new slide hammer setup. Fifteen minutes later - spindle bearings out









Bearings should be here tomorrow. Get the races installed in the hubs, clean up the RH axle and get the new u joint installed. Need to grab some new spindle nuts (they are rough) and clean up the studs on the knuckle.
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post #63 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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FYI for those interested.
The trans cooler kit that Jasper sells (they actually send it with a replacement E4OD for 92-96 Bronco application) are larger fittings that screw into the transmission ports, braided 3/8 trans cooler lines with AN fittings and a 24k Hayden trans cooler. This is REQUIRED to retain the Jasper warranty on the transmission and they actually recommend bypassing the radiator trans cooler all together and use the cooler / lines they send.

They DO sell the 'kit' separately $210 shipped ($30 of that is shipping) #K450-EL

At this point I need to see exactly what I've got to work with after I get the front end back together. For that price I can spend $60 on a Long Trans cooler and plumb it in and run braided lines.

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post #64 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Well - got nothing done to the Bronco last night. Was hoping to get everything ready for install tomorrow morning. Someone decided to rear end my Mustang on the way home from work. Just LOVE it when a brand new car (Bought it 10/17) with ZERO damage gets popped by someone who simply can't drive. I was actually going to take off early today and work on the Bronco, but now I have to go get an estimate for the damage on the Mustang. Lovely. It's not bad - rear bumper cover mainly. Just aggravating.
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post #65 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Well got SOME stuff done.

Got both hubs and spindles cleaned up.

Got the new spindle bearings greased, pressed in and the new seals in.

Took the Timken 37 inner wheel bearing and tried to fit in on one of the spindles. Nope. Took some 400 grit and made some passes on the spindle where the bearing seats. Took a few minutes and it seats perfectly.



Got both inner and outer bearing races seated with no issue.
Inner bearing greased.
Grabbed this bearing packer - found it when I moved. Apparently I bought it and never actually used it. Man - this makes it easy.



Inner bearing installed. Seal installed.

New wheel studs installed. Some washers and a lug nut - good to go.





So I've got one side ready to go. Start on the second hub.

And seating the outer race flush - simply ain't happening.

I posted a thread in the tech forum:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post7203622

I went back through pictures and there was a race that wasn't seated all the way. I'm assuming the hub is tweaked. Looking to order one now.

New Raybestos hub on rock auto? $33 + shipping. NAPA? $138
You gotta be kidding me.

So I'll be ordering one shortly.
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post #66 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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So the hub should be here Tuesday. Also had to fork out $7 via Amazon to order a new race for the Timken 45 bearing set (outer wheel bearing). So while I'm waiting on that - I was talking to a friend of mine and we started wondering just what effect the race being crooked in the hub would have on the truck.

Like I mentioned before - the race wasn't seated all the way when I took this thing apart. I had pictures when I was driving the races out and I distinctly remember thinking it was odd - that when I was driving this one race out, the 'lip' (looking down from the back side of the hub towards the backside of the outer wheel bearing race) wasn't the same size all the way around. Well - I know why now. The question is - the race wasn't straight. Maybe 2/3 of the race was FLUSH but roughly a 1/3 of the race was not flush. So in essence the outer wheel bearing was cocked outward towards the tire because of this.

It also explains why the outer wheel bearing on the LH side basically popped out as soon as I got the spindle nuts /washer off.

I wonder what effect this had on how the truck drove? Guess we'll see when I get all back together this week.

Hope to finish the front bearings / brakes / hubs / calipers / lines by Thursday and Friday morning go ahead and install the new AC Delco steering box and the Skyjacker drop pitman arm.

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post #67 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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Got the new hub in. Raybestos PT#4440R. $33+shipping via Rock Auto or $139 from NAPA. Your choice
It comes with new bearing races installed and new wheel studs. Didn't know that. If I had known that, for the money - I'd have likely replaced both hubs and just bought the Timken bearings themselves with no races. You could do new rotors, new hubs, new bearings and new wheel studs for under $200 for both sides.



So remember I mentioned the race wouldn't seat flush (only on PART of the race)? Guess I didn't notice the BEND in this hub when I was cleaning / working. That explains a lot.



Installing the rotor onto the hub. It's a press fit, held in place by the wheel studs. Get an open end lug nut, some washers and an impact. You could use a breaker bar - but even a inexpensive battery powered or corded impact should do it and impacts make life SO MUCH easier when working on vehicles - especially ones with bolts / nuts that haven't moved in 20 years or more. The washers cover the gap of threads where the shoulder of the wheel stud is - so you can use the wheel stud threads to pull the shoulder all the way into the hub. Whole operation (5 wheel studs) takes maybe 15-20 minutes.



Here's the shoulder of the wheel stud I mentioned.



Me personally, I like putting fresh grease inside the depressed cavity (inside the hub) between the inner and outer wheel bearings. Not enough that will interfere or get dislodged when sliding the hub assembly onto the spindle - but a good bit spread around in there.



Packed the inner wheel bearing with grease, inner wheel seal installed:



And I got around to checking the transfer case. There is a ATF leak that SEEMS to be coming from where the extension housing on the E4OD bolts to the transfer case. But there shouldn't be any fluid in there.

I removed the FILL plug from the Transfer case and NASTY fluid immediately started coming out. Truck was close to level - likely a bit lower in FRONT (wheels off / jack stands) so more would have likely come out if it was completely level. Good thing I went ahead and got the transfer case input seal and transfer case to extension housing gasket.



Going out with the GF tonight, off tomorrow and all of next week for vehicle and house projects. Hope to have the front end back together Friday afternoon - test drive - and then install the new steering gear and lower pitman arm and start tearing down the engine.

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post #68 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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So got some time to work on getting the front end back together.
LH side was going together just fine. New rotor, new bearings, new spindle nuts / washer, everything went together fine and the new Milemarker hub went in no problem. Installed the new pads, and unboxed the new caliper....

And it's the wrong part. My fault for not checking it before. Wrong part in the right box. Contacted Amazon and they are sending out the correct part - it will be here Sunday.

Well since I have everything else, I figure I'll use the caliper that's on the LH side for now. Get it installed, install the new Rough Country braided brake line. Go to open the brake bleeder to bleed the air out after installing the new brake hose - and it snaps off.

So much for that.

So I start on the RH side. Everything is going fine - keep in mind this is the side with the new hub - so I go to bolt on the new Milemarker hub cover - and it won't fit flush. The axle clip and locking ring fit no problem. The hub cover simply wouldn't fit flush.

Ended up taking it all apart again, made sure the bearings were seated, torqued the inner spindle nut to 70 ft/lbs, backed up 90 degrees then torqued to 20 ft/lbs. Installed the washer, Installed the outer spindle nut, torqued to 150 ft/lbs. It appears the outer locking ring wasn't seating far enough in the hub to let the Milemarker hub cover to mount flush.

Worked with a small screwdriver on the locking ring and was finally able to get it seated enough to get the hub cover mounted correctly.

Tomorrow I'll get the RH new caliper and brake line installed and bled. Sunday once the other caliper comes in I'll try to wrap it up.

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post #69 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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So today, I figure I'd just get the RH side buttoned up since the LH caliper will be here tomorrow.
Got the new pads and caliper mounted.
Went to install the new braided brake line. And of course the hard line fitting wouldn't give up the ghost. Tried heat, penetrating oil etc. Nothing. I ended up having to cut the line. I figure no big deal - since I've got a complete direct fit brake line kit from Inline Tube. So I open up the box and I can't find anything close that matches. Turns out the kit I bought was for 93-94 Bronco. Apparently 95-96 is different.

Figures.

So I remove the passenger hard line I cut at the ABS pump. Looks like a bubble flare where it screws into the ABS pump and a normal double flare on the other end. Plan is to hit up the Auto parts store tomorrow and hopefully find a pre flared (I HATE flaring brakes lines with a passion) line with a bubble flare on one end and a normal fitting on the other and use a union to connect that to a normal straight line and bend it all to fit.

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post #70 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-19-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I hate bending brake lines. That being said, it's a hard line to bend and I'm not good at - and I hate it. Not to mention the line coming from the ABS unit has a bubble flare and at the other end, where it connects to the RH front caliper line - it's double flare.

Old line was twisted up removing it. No way to use it for a template. So call me a wuss - I'm just going to order the 95-96 replacement line set from Inline Tube.

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post #71 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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I don't like getting beat. So after thinking about it last night, I figured that the difference between the Inline Tube pre bent brake line set for 93-94 (What I have - I bought it when I was planning on reviving the '93 EB) and the 95-96 kit couldn't be all that much - in regards to the lines I need - which are the lines that go from the ABS pump to each caliper.

WARNING: If you plan on buying pre bent lines - go for it. But I will tell you not to rip your old lines out without trying to keep them intact. It's almost impossible not to tweak or even cut the old lines to get them out, and to make it even more fun - the new brake lines aren't labeled.

If you aren't good at puzzles - find somebody who is.

The new line set comes with two unions. Unions that join normal double flared lines. From going through them all - one of the unions is for the front most line that goes into the ABS pump. This line (far left in my picture) goes from the ABS pump on top of the LH frame rail, bends down inside the frame rail and connects (union) to the brake line headed towards the rear.

So here's the lines I'm talking about. From the LH fender well.



The line on the right leads to the RH caliper. The middle line goes to the LH caliper.
The line on the left is the one I mentioned above - goes to the rear.

NOTE: The line on the left at the ABS pump has a small connector, the middle line is larger and the right line is another small connection. You can tell which lines go to the ABS pump because they are bubble flares.


So the second union supplied by Inline Tube connects the line (right in picture) that runs to the RH caliper. The line connects with the second part of the run right against the frame rail.

I went ahead and replaced the middle line (going to LH caliper) because I was in there. I left the line heading towards the rear along. Didn't want to fight the connection where it goes into a union heading towards the rear. It looks fine.

I took all the lines with bubble flares and mocked up each until I figured out what went where.

The HARDEST part of this job - so far - was getting the lines in place where they connect to the ABS pump. Had to remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the ABS pump on the bracket, and physically move it enough to run the lines. They run right up close to the LH shock tower.

I have big hands. No room to get the fittings started. Finally able to get to it from above, holding the ABS pump at and angle and threading the fitting with the other.

Now all I have to do is tweak the line that goes to the LH Caliper and tweak and connect the line(s) that head to the RH caliper.

Juggling yard work, and other stuff doesn't help.

IF YOU WANT TO BEND REPLACEMENT LINES:

Buddy of mine gave me a great tip. Go get some aluminum armature wire (it's for sculptures etc) from the local hobby shop. You can get 1/8" version at a hobby store CHEAP. It's easy to bend by hand, and it retains it shape. Perfect for making a template for bending a line.

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post #72 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Downside to owning 4 acres in that's heavily wooded? Yard work. Worth it for the privacy and space though. So after mowing, weedeating etc etc....ate dinner and went to see if these new lines were going to fight me.

Surprisingly no. Got the junction installed for the RH caliper line that runs across the crossmember. Got the new line on the RH caliper installed. Got the hard line hooked up to the LH caliper line.

So all I need to do is install the new LH Caliper, tighten down the ABS pump and plug it up and bleed the system.



New lines connected to the ABS pump. Not fun.



I will tweak these lines a bit to clean them up.



This is where the RH caliper hard line connects and runs across the cross member to the RH caliper.

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post #73 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Got the hubs / brakes and lines back together yesterday. Caught hell trying to get the air out of the system. I've never had an issue using my MityVac, but it just wasn't up to the job. Ran by harbor freight and picked up this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

I had the much more expensive version of this years ago. For $30 I figured it was worth a shot. Pedal was basically going to the floor. Bled basically a full big bottle of fluid through the system. Then had my GF pump the pedal and hold it while I cracked each master cylinder fitting loose. That combo gave me a satisfactory pedal. I will more than likely get another bottle of fluid and use the bleeder to make sure it's good as it can get.

Rides / drives better. Still a good bit of play (which I knew all along was more than likely the steering gear which looks original).

Was able to air down the 35's and BARELY fit the Bronco in the shop. (shop ceiling is plenty big - it's the door entryway that's short).

Disconnected the upper steering column, disconnected both power steering lines, got the drag link off the pitman arm and got the old steering box removed.





New AC Delco steering box ready to go in:



The new Skyjacker extreme drop pitman arm compared to the already installed 'normal' drop pitman arm:



New steering gear went it with zero issues.

But unless I'm missing something, there's no way the Skyjacker pitman arm is going to work.

It won't match up with the drag link. I was going to try and break loose the LH tie rod from the drag link and go from there, but it looks like the LH tie rod would interfere / hit the drag link IF I could get it to match up. Keep in mind both drag link and all tie rods are newly replaced right before I bought it.





I'm going to remove the old drop pitman arm and install it on the new box and see how it drives from there.

Anyone else had experience with installing the FA600 Skyjacker extreme drop pitman arm? I found a couple of threads mentioning have it installed - but no issues I could fine with installing it.

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post #74 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 11:36 AM
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[QUOTE=ctandc;7206478]Downside to owning 4 acres in that's heavily wooded? Yard work. Worth it for the privacy and space though. So after mowing, weedeating etc etc....

I have 5 acres and have the same problem it takes to long and I just want to do Bronco things. 4 acres of mine is all grass
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post #75 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0_fordguy View Post
I have 5 acres and have the same problem it takes to long and I just want to do Bronco things. 4 acres of mine is all grass
Most of mine is heavily wooded. That's one of the reasons we bought this place. Of course the detached 2+ car garage (For parking) and the detached 2+ car shop with it's own power didn't hurt either.
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post #76 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:19 PM
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I also ran into trouble with the BBK headers. They didnt match up to my Y pipe not even close. The muffler shop had to cut and weld in new flanges because the Y pipe flanges were too small. Also, I used Stage 8 locking fasteners and on one position I had to heat and beat the pipe to get enough clearance for the retainer ring to fit. Very disappointing. BY the time I was done modifying it I could have gotten a Bassani Y pipe and headers.
Bingo!!!

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post #77 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up with the JBA headers and the Jegs off road y pipe. With the difference in price for Bassani headers + y pipe, I'll pay my exhaust guy to run a custom exhaust after the y pipe and have some cash left over.
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post #78 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:36 PM
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Subscribed.

Awesome tech and how-to pics/descript.


I'm replacing worn out stuff so this thread will come in real handy.

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post #79 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:36 PM
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"Most of mine is heavily wooded. That's one of the reasons we bought this place. Of course the detached 2+ car garage (For parking) and the detached 2+ car shop with it's own power didn't hurt either.[/QUOTE]

I bought my house before I got married. Main reason I got the house I did was 30 by 40 shop with 3 phase. My wife complains that the shop is almost bigger then the house but I was a first time home buyer with a Bronco addiction. Now I just need to get a Mill and Lathe to use that 3 phase
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post #80 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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So had a bit to work on the 95 today.

Picked up a pitman arm puller and got the old drop pitman arm off the old steering box.

Then ran into the same problem when loosely installing it on the steering box - the drag link (still connected to LH inner tie rod) still wouldn't bolt up. So I removed the LH inner tie rod from the drag link.

Decided to go ahead and try to install the Skyjacker extreme drop pitman arm. It went on - key way matched up, drag link bolted up with no adjustment - but I did have to screw the LH inner tie rod IN about 5-6 turns and it bolted right up to the drag link.

Keep in mind - started all this work with the truck on the ground - tires pointed straight ahead, steering wheel centered / locked and secured with the seat belt. Steering shaft matched right up with the flat on the new steering box. Steering box was centered.

Need to torque everything - may try to take a quick road test tomorrow but I have other stuff I have to do - so it might be Sunday.

I'll get it aligned this week.

Also - this is as far as I could get the new pitarm on. Keep in mind - new steering box as well. I'll try to use the impact to see if I can get it to go on further. Had my 3/4" torque wrench set to 200 and I couldn't get it to click to torque.






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