1995 EB build - Everything comes in three's... - Page 6 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #101 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 05:24 PM
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@ctandc Have you checked the condition of the metal window guides? I assumed mine were intact, but when I tried sliding the new weatherstripping into them, they broke right off (mounts were rusted through). I tried to rebuild my tailgate in a weekend too, but the guides ruined that

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post #102 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 09:06 PM
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@ctandc awesome thread. Just read the whole thing, don't know how I missed it (send me a pm or something next time, lol) but I'm subscribed now. Looking forward to more; really nice work.

I've had my eye on that Skyjacker FA600 Pitman Arm for some time now, I just hate to part with $200+ for it.
I have the Superunner steering and I was good, that extra 1+" has me not having as much tie rod threaded into the sleeves as I would like. It's probably gonna be my next purchase.

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post #103 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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@ctandc Have you checked the condition of the metal window guides? I assumed mine were intact, but when I tried sliding the new weatherstripping into them, they broke right off (mounts were rusted through). I tried to rebuild my tailgate in a weekend too, but the guides ruined that
Yup - they're good. This truck is ridiculously rust free - especially considering it spent time in Myrtle Beach, SC, then stayed in the VA Beach area for YEARS. I actually removed the LH guide to get better access when removing the wiring harness. After seeing the metal guide was fine - the rubber guide 'insert' was literally dry rotted I also removed the RH and it was in the same shape.
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post #104 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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@ctandc awesome thread. Just read the whole thing, don't know how I missed it (send me a pm or something next time, lol) but I'm subscribed now. Looking forward to more; really nice work.

I've had my eye on that Skyjacker FA600 Pitman Arm for some time now, I just hate to part with $200+ for it.
I have the Superunner steering and I was good, that extra 1+" has me not having as much tie rod threaded into the sleeves as I would like. It's probably gonna be my next purchase.
Funny thing - a key or button must have gotten stuck. Apparently you liked my last post 63 times

Thanks. As for the Pitman Arm - I didn't want to part with it either. I've never owned a TTB truck. An old buddy of mine has worked on these for years - the first thing he mentioned when I was tracking down the wandering / darting the '95 had was the steering box and the Skyjacker pitman arm.

He recommended the AC Delco rebuilt box. Said he'd never had one come back after installing it. He told me to stay away from the Cardone and other steering boxes. He did mention the aftermarket steering boxes - but also said if the truck was going to be wheeled a ton and was mainly a driver - the AC Delco would do just fine. The AC Delco box was cheaper than the parts store boxes (Rock Auto). A tick over $100.

He mentioned the Skyjacker drop arm - he said it kept the steering geometry very close to OEM and if I wasn't worry about rock crawling and bending tie rods - it was worth the cash.

The pitman arm is ridiculously hefty and well made. Makes the OEM pitman arm look puny. And even needing an alignment, after those additions - the truck drives straight as an arrow at all speeds - no darting, no wandering, etc.

Well Bronco Graveyard came through. Stuff is shipped and will be here tomorrow. I ended up ordering a bunch of other small odds and ends that wouldn't have made since by themselves (Shipping cost as much as the parts).

- Rod clips for the tailgate handle / latch assembly (I need to pull it and straighten it out a bit so it engages the releases with less effort, I'm betting this is common)
- Trim screws for the access panel
- Trim screws for interior panels (I hate painting screws and bolts)
- U nuts for the top hardware - I already bought new allen head and standard head bolts for cheap from Bolt Depot
- Weatherstripping for rear window guides
- RH and LH Tailgate weatherstrip end seals

Now I have to figure out how I want to fix the tailgate outer skin separation. I haven't fully decided if I'll be installing the spare tire carrier from the '93. The '95 had it originally, and all the bracing / etc is still there, but it was MIA when I bought it. Since this will be my son's daily - and he doesn't drive all that much (college student / athlete so he's on the road a lot) and the truck will only be an hour from the house - I'll likely initially just send him off with a small air compressor that will plug up to the cigarette lighter and a can of fix a flat.

I'm leaning harder that way now - after seeing the separation beginning on the RH side and a bit on the LH side. Can't decide if I want to make a small metal brace and attach it underneath those brackets (where the weatherstrip end seals sit) or simply weld the outer tailgate seam on both sides. A little primer on the edge of the tailgate won't bother either of us.

I've searched here but haven't run across a ton of info about how people repaired this - I did see Steve83's pictures / write up. Don't know how I feel about rivets or cutting an access panel in the side of the tailgate.

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post #105 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 10:49 AM
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Funny thing - a key or button must have gotten stuck. Apparently you liked my last post 63 times
Here's @cobrajoe liking your post.

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post #106 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 03:41 PM
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I have the Superlift #1109 dropped arm now; it's good for 4"-', but I think I'm a little passed that. The Skyjacker is more for 8", which is what I need with the Superunner steering.

Just need to find some extra "fun ticket$"

As far as the tailgate goes, on the '66-'77 broncos we used to tig weld the outside seams together so they wouldn't separate. If you got somebody good with a tig torch, you won't have much, if any, body work to do.

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post #107 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 03:45 PM
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post #108 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 09:17 PM
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@ctandc , I need a favor when you have a chance. I think I may have changed out the pitman arm at some point and time on my '93 and don't remember. I pulled it off the old truck when I built this truck and put the stock pitman back on the '93 when I sold it. Anyways, I took a good look at it today and it looks pretty extreme so I may have swapped it a second time when i went higher. I measured approx. (no glasses) 4.5" of drop. Just want to be sure before I order another one. Again, I'm in no rush, just curious now.
Thanks. Sorry for the hijack.

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post #109 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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@ctandc , I need a favor when you have a chance. I think I may have changed out the pitman arm at some point and time on my '93 and don't remember. I pulled it off the old truck when I built this truck and put the stock pitman back on the '93 when I sold it. Anyways, I took a good look at it today and it looks pretty extreme so I may have swapped it a second time when i went higher. I measured approx. (no glasses) 4.5" of drop. Just want to be sure before I order another one. Again, I'm in no rush, just curious now.
Thanks. Sorry for the hijack.

Joe
I will check tonight. I'll set myself a reminder. Does this picture help?

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post #110 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Well I found a shop just down the road that will weld up the tailgate on the '95 tomorrow morning. He does a lot of automotive stuff and after talking with him, I'm sure he can handle it without issue. If I can get that done, UPS notified me all the Bronco Graveyard parts arrived so maybe I can get the tailgate together tomorrow.
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post #111 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 04:45 PM
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I will check tonight. I'll set myself a reminder. Does this picture help?

Thanks, I'll compare them when I go to the shop Saturday, I'm thinking mines not that radical, but I'm phucking old so.....

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post #112 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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The guy who welded the tailgate did a great job. I'll hit it with primer before I put everything together.
The inside tabs that join the inner and outer shell of the tailgate break. Mine were broken on both sides - so blaming it on the spare tire carrier doesn't fly with me.

The RH outer tailgate shell literally had ONE factory spot weld holding it to the inner tailgate. It let go. That caused the RH outer shell to MOVE back and forth, which eventually broke the thin tabs between the shells.



His MIG welder fixed it right up. He didn't want to heat the metal up too much - but he got good welds on it and it was rock solid BEFORE he welded the inner braces:





Got the outer tailgate trim pulled from the 93 EB. Both trim pieces are in really good shape, but the '95 has some spots on the black trim strip - where as the 93 piece is dirty, but mint.

So I tore into it and got the tailgate handle (remote control) working great.
There is a interlock rod that runs to the bottom of the tailgate from the handle assembly. If you search threads - you'll quickly figure out that this rod keeps the tailgate from opening until the window is ALL the way down. So of course if you roll it MOST of the way down - you try the tailgate handle and it doesn't open. So the linkage from the handle gets bent.



This is the interlock rod running to the bottom of the tailgate.



The yellow clip where my thumb is, that's where the interlock rod clips in. That bracket turns when the window goes all the way down, thus allowing you to open the tailgate via the handle.

I decided to get rid of this. So I used a Dremel to slice up the back of the rivet then drilled it out.



So here's a shot from inside the tailgate - and the result of people trying to open the tailgate when the interlock rod was still engaged:



Here's the handle removed.



Just slide the part of the yellow clip that holds onto the rod. This will allow you to pop the rod out pretty easily.



Here's the latch assembly (remote control) out and orientated as it bolts in. Three bolts. I circled the washers of the bolts so I could bolt it back in the same spot so the latches disengage correctly.



Here it is flipped over. See the yellow clips.



Here you can see the bent latch. I bent it back just enough and tested the latch / handle with everything reinstalled. Works great. Closes and latches easily and solid. Unlatches and opens A LOT better.

So my 95 had rear defogger but was missing one of the copper tabs that is soldered to the rear defogger printed circuit on the window. You have one power tab and one ground tab. So I robbed a tab from the 93 EB glass. Used the solder gun to heat the tab while holding the tab with needle nose pliers. The solders gets soft and you can remove the tab





Here's a close up of where the tab solders in.



The tab itself.



Here it is soldered onto the 95 EB glass.

Heading out in a bit to start putting everything back together.

New inner and outer weather strips, window guide weatherstrips, rebuild the harness etc.
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post #113 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Next up, had to clean the adhesive residue from the 90's mirror tint that I peeled off the rear window. Years ago, a buddy who did tint gave me a great tip - get some cheap window cleaner that has ammonia. The ammonia dissolves the tint residue. So I soaked the rear window down, and after several coating and wiping / scrubbing it off with a microfiber - got 99% of the crap off the window.

Next up needed to clean the tailgate trim up. I pulled it from the 93 EB and it's in REALLY good shape - but absolutely filthy.



Not bad.

For anyone needing some trim, I have the original trim from the '95 EB. The trim is in good shape, there's just some flaws in the black trim strip that runs across the middle

Installed the new trim. Keep in mind - the lock cylinder is held in by a metal u clip inside the tailgate. However, the trim installs OVER the outside of the lock cylinder, so I installed the lock cylinder and then the trim.



I scavenged the window motor connector from the '93 harness. I used these connectors that you use a heat gun to melt the solder bead in the middle plus the weather proof seals on the end of the heat shrink. The black rubber piece connects to a hole in the bottom of the tailgate, keeping the window wiring out of the way of the glass. The connector was broken, so I ran a tie wrap around the harness, and tightened it. The connector of the tie wrap locks it in, since it won't fit through the hole.



Here's the harness going to the motor clipped into the shell to keep it out of the way.



I also pulled the regulator / window and lubed everything up with white lithium grease, reinstalled the tire carrier brace and pulled the latch / remote control and replaced all the yellow clips and cleaned / lubed up the latch assembly.



This the metal wiring channel that screws into the tailgate. You run the two wires that go to the window motor inside it (Taping them to keep them in the channel) then attach with the screws and it keeps the wiring tucked out of the way.



Tan w/ black, red w/ yellow. One of these wires runs to the window motor. The other wire runs to the factory safety switch installed inside the tailgate on the LH side. If this switch is bad, the window motor will not get power. This safety switch prevents you from operating the window with the tailgate open. I bypassed it. Another solderless connector with some extra heat shrink on top.



Started taping up the harness. I pulled ALL the old tape off so I could make sure ALL the wires were in good shape.

So now I need to clip the key switch onto the lock cylinder, then replace the weatherstrips inside the window runs, bolt those in, install / bolt up the window, then connect up the rear defog wires, and then install the inner / outer and end weatherstrips.
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post #114 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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So I got the wiring harness installed - and before installing the glass I wanted to test it out. I had tested it out before - and it worked. This time. NOTHING. I had power at the connector under the truck going to the tailgate harness. I ended up having to strip off all the tape on the harness. And believe it or not, I was dropping power at the OEM female window motor harness. I took it back apart and the wires running into the connector were GREEN. Totally corroded. I ended up converting the window motor connections to weatherproof bullet connectors.

Tested that and everything worked. Taped the harness back up, got it installed, key switch and dash switch work great.



This is the OEM harness I removed from the '93 EB. Wires looked fine - until about 3-4" from the connector and they were totally corroded.



Here's the connector I've been using. I used them at a friend's shop a while back working on a race car. I like how easy they are to work with and they are essentially weatherproof.



Here's the old weatherstrips inside the window guides. They were SHOT.



The new guides installed. I lubed up the channel and the new weatherstripping with silicone.

I bolted the new window guides in.

I then slid the window into the guides, installed the regulator channels (after sanding the inside of them and cleaning them up where they ride on the rollers on the regulator arms) - greased everything up with white lithium grease. Then got the window bolted down.


Got the new inner and outer weather strips on the tailgate opening. And the end caps. Kind of pain to get everything lined up, but got it done. Everything lubed up with silicone. Tested everything out and can't believe how smoothly the window travels up and down from either switch.

I still need to connect the rear defrost wires. I have to put a connector on the ground defogger connector and tie the wiring harness down to the window mount.

The kid came out and he started stripping out the interior of the 95. Got it all stored inside the '96 to keep it out of the weather.

No rust holes - just a bit of surface rust. Going to get some rust converter and coat the floors with spray in bedliner and lay some noise / sound insulation down before reinstalling the mat.

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post #115 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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So there are things I'd like to do to the '95 - but in the interest of hopefully getting this thing ready to so the kid can take it back to college next month, some things will wait.

Plan is to get the front mat up, both rear interior panels out, hit the surface rust spots with a wire brush then hit them with a liberal shot of a spray on rust converter. After that I'm going to shoot a quick layer of spray on bedliner onto the metal, then line the floor with some Noico sound dampening panels.

Hope to wrap up the rear defrost wiring tonight and start on the floor. Then it's moving onto other things that are easier with the interior out. Front headliner, dash pad from '93, adding the power mirrors from the '93 (should be a straight bolt on and plug up) , rear speakers, stereo installed, USB charging ports wired in the current power receptacle, install the late model F150 console, install the '93 rear panels and trim (all the braces for the top are missing from the '95 - they are still there on the '93 - I honestly believe the top on the '93 has never been removed). Then it's put the speedo from the '95 into the donor '95 cluster I nabbed a while back, install the gauge bezel and wrap up all the trim.

Once the interior is back together, it's on to drive train work.
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post #116 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Had a little bit of time last night after work.
Got a new terminal installed on the rear defrost ground connection. Plugged it up, routed the wiring. Tested it with the window travel all the way up and down - seems good to go.



Tested power with rear defrost switch turned on - I've got voltage on the defrost grid in all spots. I'll consider this good to go.

I made a makeshift weather seal for the tailgate out of a thick contractor trash bag cut to fit and taped in. I'll redo it - I'm going to hit up the local craft store for some thicker plastic I can use for this and a few other things in the interior.



All buttoned up.

Then had a bit of time to continue tearing down the interior. Got both rear panels out and the front vinyl mat out. Pleased to see the rust free theme continues up front as well.





I think I'm going to use the sound barrier stuff I bought up front and just use the spray in bedliner in the rear cargo area - the vinyl mat will be going over this anyway.



Looks like I'll have good access via the trans inspection cover to deal with removing the AIR pipe from the back of the engine and plug the holes in the heads with bolts.

This is a '95 EB and originally had carpet. Somewhere along the way someone added a Bronco OEM vinyl mat - which is fine - but of course it came in base models and has the cut out for the manual shifted transfer case. I'm going to simply get a cheap floor mat used for the middle hump on a F150 and use that to cover the hole after throwing in some heavy duty floormats up front.

I really don't want to deal with heating / scraping up the sound insulation installed from the factory (front floor boards) so I'm likely going to installed my sound / heat barrier stuff over the top of it.

Hope to start gutting the rear of the '93 EB interior this weekend so I can clean / dye those panels (in MUCH better shape than the '95 panels) and get them installed. Install the rear speakers, new stereo, install the power mirrors from the '93 (95 didn't have 'em) and get the power door locks working.
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post #117 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Finally had some time to get back to the Bronco. Pulled the driver's door panel and realized the '95 ALREADY has power mirrors. But apparently a previous owner decided to install a master switch that does NOT have the mirror switch / control. Figures. Luckily I had a nice spare. Plugged it up and power mirrors both work great.

Now to address the power door locks. So I removed an alarm from this truck when I replaced the column. But there was not a Remote Keyless entry on that alarm and this truck does NOT have a OEM RKE module. So got the EVTM out and started tracing

The bottom of the master switch - the wires themselves were loose. And the all time power wire running to it (power locks) was twisted together and just taped over. So I used the extra master switch I had and rewired the new switch onto the harness. Windows great - power locks NOTHING. Power is getting to switch so I started tracing.

On the Passenger side kick panel - I found a pair of SPEAKER WIRES twisted and half-assed soldered into the two pink wires (power door lock control wires). They ran to nowhere. Removed those and temporarily twisted them together - still nothing. I opened the harness on the driver's side and cut the larger Pink w/ black and Pink w/ orange wires that run directly to the door lock actuator. Give one side power / one side ground - and they actuator should cycle. Jumper wires to my spare battery and it the actuator worked. After that I twisted the previously spliced wires on passenger side back together and all of a sudden I had power locks from the passenger side. I had Unlock on the driver's side - no lock. I pulled the lock switch from the other master switch, cleaned the contacts...and now they all work.

I'll clean these all up this week, get them connected, and tape up some various wires that looked to have been spliced into in the past. After that - I have to figure why I have a random pair of wires (one brown one black - they don't look factory) that looks to come out of one of the harnesses that run to to the power lumbar on the seats.

I hate people who mess with wiring and have no clue. At least they were consistent - the RH rear speaker was hooked up with two wires literally jammed into the factory connector.
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post #118 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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So here's the wiring for the OEM power mirrors - the plug is tucked into the door. Since a previous owner decided to replace the master switch / cover with one that does not have the control for the power mirrors



And here's a great previous owner wiring job (one of many so far) the power to the master switch (BLK w/ WT) apparently broke. So they just twisted a random jumper wire onto it and taped it up in the harness. Not kidding.



I'll get pictures of the hacked up power lock wires at the passenger kick panel - a length of speaker wire "soldered" into the power lock feed wires. Lovely.

FYI - I've been looking for a better plastic vapor barrier for the tailgate and the door panels when I put the interior back together.
Believe it or not - HOBBY LOBBY. Their fabric section, they have (3) different thicknesses of clear plastic. I paid $14 for 3 yards of it. Long enough to cut one piece for the tailgate and have extra for doing the door panels.

And to attach it - so you can actually remove it again when you go back in there:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Blac...gateway&sr=8-1
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post #119 of 120 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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So yesterday after work I wanted to wrap up the power lock / door wiring.



This is what I was dealing with. The length of speaker wire in my hand, was twisted onto the Pink wires shows (door lock actuator wiring going to RH door - and crosses back to the LH door in the other side of that bundle / harness) and a glob of solder was added and some tape. High quality installation.

I spliced the OEM wiring back together. Finished splicing in the donor master switch from the '93 EB.

NOTE: I didn't grab a picture, but there was a wiring difference in the old master switch / 95 OEM wiring and the 93 EB wiring of the master switch. I haven't checked the '93 EB to make sure - but I'm assuming at this point it's because the '95 EB I'm working on does NOT have an OEM RKE (Remote Keyless Entry) module. I'm going to assume the '93 does. I know the EVTM schematics for the power locks differ between having the OEM RKE module and NOT having it.

Regardless the only difference was the pink wires going to the master door lock / unlock switch. The location of the two pink wires were opposite on the '93 Master switch. Every other wire was identical, so I wired / spliced everything in - but only temporarily spliced the two different pink wires to test. I had to reverse them - and looking at the old master switch wire locations versus the '93 EB master switch wire locations - it made perfect sense. The Unlock vs Lock seemed to be reversed - again I'm guessing it has to do with having an RKE module or not.

Regardless everything is wired up, tested, power mirrors, locks and windows work. Taped the harnesses up and decided to mess with the radio.

I already had a new JVC head unit - so I removed the old unit (the face was stolen during the aborted Bronco theft attempt - the reason I ended up owning this Bronco) and found that they appeared to use aftermarket harness / adapter - a little digging and I find out it's the correct Metra 70-1770 adapter.



I threw in the new JBL rear speakers - and the Memphis 6.5 speakers already installed up front actually work. There's a bad spot in the RH front speaker wiring somewhere (let me find my shocked face) and I was actually shocked how good the thing sounded. It'll work just fine for now. During Winter break we might throw some time and money at a decent system - we'll see.

Next up replace the ashtray with the one from the '96, fix the cigarette lighter wiring, and find out what these mystery wires are that were on the floorboard - seemingly part of the factory wiring harness that runs across the floor (part of it feeds the power lumbar seats)

cobrajoe and SRWillis like this.

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1995 EB (Number Three),1993 EB and 1996 XL - The donor twins. My build thread:
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...es-threes.html
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post #120 of 120 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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So I started digging through the '95 Ford EVTM manual I bought a while back (for all those who don't have one - get one. The paper version is only like $30, a brand new reprint on Ebay - I also have the electronic service manual which is great) and found out what the "mystery" wires are.

The BLACK and BROWN w/ Light Blue wires pictured (which I found spliced and taped together when I removed the vinyl mat) are actually the warning buzzer / chime wiring that goes to the switch on the LH seat belt assembly. That makes sense.....there was no switch there when I removed the LH seat belt assembly. I'll make the splice permanent and call it good.

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1995 EB (Number Three),1993 EB and 1996 XL - The donor twins. My build thread:
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...es-threes.html
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