1995 EB build - Everything comes in three's... - Page 7 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #121 of 146 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Finally had some time for the Bronco...

Hard to scavenge shop time in the midst of doing house remodel - just got done replacing a bathroom floor I wasn't expecting.

So I got the rear area cleaned up - sprayed the two spots of rust I found. A bit of corrosion, but no major rot. Wire brushed the loose stuff out, then hit it with some rust converter. Then started spraying the rear with aerosol bedliner. I'll finish that up tonight hopefully and get some pics. Then it's on to wrapping up the dash:

- swapping PSOM into the donor gauge cluster.
- installing Autometer A-pillar gauge cluster and gauges
- donor ashtray and fix cigarette lighter wiring
- donor dash pad swap
- finish up radio /speaker installation
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post #122 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-04-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and other house projects, but I was able to get some time to get back to the interior.

The former owners apparently had various stereo systems in the car. It was a hodge podge. I never trust someone else's wiring work - so I ended up running new speaker wires to both front and rear. Fishing them into the doors was fun......

Got the wiring cleaned up - soldered everything in. Pulled the dash pad from the '96 and installed it. Also swapped in the ashtray (the '95's was busted).



The dash shell itself under neath / behind the glove box - where the glove box mounts - was actually cracked. I simply used my soldering iron and soldered / fixed the crack. No more rattling and it appears very solid.

The aerosol bedliner worked well after I got the inside rear quarters and rear floor cleaned up.





Next up need to swap in the '95 speedo to the mint instrument cluster I scored and get it mounted. Then pull the Airbag control box, gauge a pillar and swap the headliner in from the '93 and more to go.
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post #123 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Okay - so the majority of house projects are done. Slowly getting back to the Bronco.

So here's the spray on bedliner in the back:





I'm going to add some sound deadening material to the inside of the 1/4 panels and likely some to rear floor as well.

And so then it was on to cleaning the extremely dirty - but mint - gray door panels and get them dyed.

Prep Sol - or SEM's version is great for getting the final grease etc off of parts you're getting ready to paint.



Here's the stuff I used. This matched perfectly when tested on a trim piece at the auto body supply store. It came out a bit lighter on the door panels. Haven't decided if it's enough difference for it to matter or not right now.



Before and After



The coated metal trip pieces clipped into the door panels were in crappy shape - appears to be a vinyl coating over metal. I removed them (be easy and use trim removal tools) they looked bad against the freshly dyed panel. So I pulled 'em out.



I test fitted the late model F150 console I scored for cheap. The front holes for the factory console line up great. I'll just drill a hole for the rear mount.




And I decided to dye the console black for some contrast.



I also pulled the armrests to dye them separately, and replace the driver's side - since it was worn and I had nice armrest on a trashed panel.

Going to mock the panels up tonight and see if the color difference is enough to hunt down another color dye.

Oddly enough it looks like there is two different colors in the '95's interior (and the '96 XL and the '93 EB - all tan) a darker tan for the dash etc and a lighter tan for the other trim.

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post #124 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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I'm trying one other color. Got a lead that apparently SEM Monterey is real close to the darker "mocha" tan in these trucks. Of course my local guy has ONE can in stock. Ordered a few cans to try. Guess we'll see.


Need to start pulling the rear interior from the '93 EB - but everytime I start - it starts raining.

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post #125 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Okay so let me know how to post this so people can find the info (a new thread / a sticky / facts whatever) I've found the out of the can match for the mocha interior in the 92+ Bronco.

It's SEM Color Coat 15723 - Monterey







So got both door panels and armrests painted. Then I went to install the new INNER window seals / strips. Turns out EVERY door panel I have access to has at least ONE broken off plastic tab - the square hole that holds the clips for the inner window seal. So I engineered what I hope to be a decent solution without drilling / bolting etc. Three of the holes were intact. 1 broken and 1 completely gone. Got the strip sitting flush with the inside of the panel - like it's supposed to - and used some Gorilla glue and clamped it down. I let it sit overnight, I'll check it tonight or tomorrow morning to see how sturdy it is. Have to do the same thing to the other panel as well.



Here's a different view of the newly painted panel. MUCH better match. Damn near identical



Decided to look at the Autometer A pillar dual pod gauge mount I'll be using. It's designed to go over the top of the factory A pillar trip. Drill a couple of holes through it into the OEM piece and use the included push pins to attach it. It doesn't look as bad as I initially thought, so I'm going to initially try it like it's designed. If I don't like it, I fitted it by itself and with a good trace and cut, I could plastic solder the Autometer piece to a cut down OEM piece (you need the OEM section of the A Pillar trim that runs along the top of the door).



This is where it overlaps the top trim. Not as bad as I thought



Another view:



Dyed and ready to go



Hoping to get some work done tonight and the majority of the weekend will be devoted to the Bronco. I HOPE to get the front door panels installed and done, the gauge pillar and pre run the wiring, and get the '93 EB rear interior panels out of the '93 and cleaned / installed into the '95. Then I can go after the transfer case / transmission leak and then onto the mechanical work and get this thing out of my shop.
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post #126 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 04:44 PM
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Man... those panels are looking awesome.


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post #127 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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So back at it for a bit. The glue / clamp routine worked great on the inner weather strip. So I figured I'd finish up that door panel, getting it ready to install. So when trying to find nice door panels - apparently I didn't pay attention to the back side mounting 'lugs' which space the panel out from the door. I'm guessing people using the wrong screws, over tightening etc - caused the spacers / lugs on this panel to break.

So I used the dremel and cut off lugs from a trashed panel I had on hand. Then I simply used my old soldering iron to plastic weld the lugs onto the panel for stability when installed. I've used this technique for YEARS and it works better than anything else I've tried. Did it for motorcycle fairing repairs and it held up great for years.



Fitting the first lug. Doesn't have to be perfect, just stable enough to hold up.





Here's the soldered in lug. Just use the side of the iron to quickly melt the plastics together.



I then installed the metal trim pieces at the top of the door panel. They are thin metal with a vinyl like coating (wood grain / black etc) and mine were all screwed up. Painted it with SEM trim black then coated that with black vinyl dye. They are held in my metal 'tangs' that you can bend outward from the backside to remove them. They are a PAIN to reinstall correctly. You have to bend the metal tangs after 'snapping' the trim down into the slots



Also installed the armrest. It's held on from the rear with screws.



Then onto the next panel to install the new inner weather strip. It had one broken hole for the strip clips.



Got it in place, used a bit of glue - got it where I wanted it and clamped it lightly in place with some needle nose vice grips



So while that was setting up, I decided to uninstall the old, trashed headliner. I'm going to swap in the mint headliner from the '93. None of the Bronco's I have were equipped with the roof console - but apparently the wiring and mount is present in the '95



Tomorrow I hope to get the door panels finished and installed, get the A pillar installed, and hopefully get the rear interior from the '93 removed and swapped in.
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post #128 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-30-2019, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
Man... those panels are looking awesome.


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Thanks. Dyeing plastic / vinyl panels is easy. The trick is to use a good dye, and clean the CRAP out of the panels, finishing up with Prep All or another grease / wax remover. I've changed interior colors on tons of project vehicles over the years. Much cheaper than paying $300 or more for new panels that often don't fit as good as OEM.

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post #129 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Started pulling the '93 EB rear panels. Here's what the OEM setup looks like. I honestly think this top has never been removed.



Those plugs are likely dry rotted from the sun. Use a trim tool if you want to try to save them - or a small flathead will pop 'em out.



Removal is straight forward. All the screws holding the panel are short screws except for the two in the rear at the tailgate, and the screw that holds the B pillar trim.

It's out but damn it's nasty. And according to the two beer cans (tops weren't popped) that I found inside the armrest compartment - that are now empty - the insulation behind the panel got soaked YEARS ago and nasty. Out it all came. I'll use some of sound insulation I got on the rear of the panels.





Soaked it down in LA Awesome - it's $1 at the Dollar Store. Not toxic or nasty. Works great. And it's a dollar. Then hosed it off.





I'll plastic weld spots on the rear cargo pocket so it doesn't flop around.



Hosed it off, wiped it down, it with panel prep then some color - to see if it blends. I've only got most of 1 can left. Local guy had one - it's gone now. Hoping to just hit the panel with a quick coat. Would suck to have to wait on more SEM color coat.

It's really hard for me to tell where I did and didn't spray. I coated pretty much the whole panel, thicker coat on spots that had run marks / stains.





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post #130 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
Those plugs are likely dry rotted from the sun. Use a trim tool if you want to try to save them - or a small flathead will pop 'em out.

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells spares. Plugs on my '93 were shot...


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post #131 of 146 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Got the repairs done using the soldering iron.







Lined the rear of the panel with peel and seal.........



Killzmat for inside of the rear 1/4's. This made a huge difference just rapping on the metal - it seemed to deaden a lot of the sound.





This roller is worth it - made it really lay down smooth and tight







And installed. I'll take it for a driver.


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post #132 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Got the rear panels squared away and installed. Public service announcement - there is enough variance among the rear panels on Bronco's that you might have to drill some new holes to make everything line up as it should.





Wrapped up the driver's door panel, installed the new retainer studs - put some plastic weather wrap and a bit of killzmat on the door then mounted the door panel





Tomorrow going to get the RH panel installed, get the replacement headliner installed then finalize the Autometer gauge pod A pillar mount install.

I still haven't decided if I'm going to install any Killzmat on the rear bed of the '95. Odds are it's going to be driven a lot of the time with the top off. Wondering how that stuff would act if it got wet - since the OEM rear vinyl mat would be on top.
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post #133 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 08:22 PM
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ctandc, are you using a soldering iron or an actual plastic welder to repair your panels?

My Build Thread: Orey Gets Stroked
“It doesn’t need to run like a raped ape... a mildly violated monkey would be fine.”
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post #134 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 07:19 AM
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I believe he is using a soldering gun. As he said earlier, back in the day when dirt bike plastics were expensive, the common practice was to weld them together with a soldering gun. If you had a really high wattage gun, this was easy; you could have someone press the two pieces together and you could literally weld it back together by pushing the gun in and out (back & forth) over the crack. If you did both sides, it worked really well. A little hot glue over the weld on the underside added extra strength.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



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post #135 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 09:00 AM
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Thanks CJ. Missed that in the top line. Appreciate the explanation and mini how-to.

Subconsciously I was hoping the OP had a plastic welder. Have waffled looking at hot air units in the past and was hoping to see one in action.


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post #136 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
Thanks CJ. Missed that in the top line. Appreciate the explanation and mini how-to.

Subconsciously I was hoping the OP had a plastic welder. Have waffled looking at hot air units in the past and was hoping to see one in action.


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Before you pay for a plastic welder - buy a cheap soldering iron, and use cheap tie wraps as filler material (or pieces of broken interior components).

I started using the soldering iron on sport bike fairings. Aftermarket fairings were almost always cheap, but also flimsy and simply didn't fit as well as OEM stuff. I painted several different bikes by buying (or getting for free) damaged OEM Fairings that fit my bike and working on them while I was still riding my own bike.

It pays to research what type of plastic you're dealing with before using filler material (that's why I mention using a broken interior piece).

It's literally just using the soldering iron to melt the plastic on both sides of a crack, and manipulating the soldering iron (quick motions) results in a repair just as strong as before the crack.

If doing finish work on the exterior - use a QUALITY filler designed for plastic.

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post #137 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Got the passenger door inner liner made / installed. New panel installed.

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post #138 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Decided to go ahead and install the Kilmat (not Killzmat as I've been calling it apparently) in the rear bed area. Talked to a buddy of mine. He has it in a CJ-7 and he rarely keeps a top installed on his Jeep. It gets rained on all the time. Vinyl mat on top of it and it's held up fine for over a year with zero issues. Said his brother has the same type stuff in his Scout II with zero issues.

Stuff is really reasonable price. I paid like $60 for a box of it (amazon) 36 square feet. Comes in squares, easy to work with and cut with good scissors.


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post #139 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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So of course I'm off today and I can't find my '95 EVTM manual (Electrical diagram). I think I took it to work. Figures

Anyway - the '95 has the wiring for the factory roof console - even though it didn't have one installed and there were no holes in the headliner telling my one was installed.

Since I'm installing A pillar gauges (electric water temp and oil pressure) and I've got to run wiring anyway - and I don't plan on installing a roof console, I was thinking about using the existing wiring to run to the gauges (the roof console harness runs right up the LH A pillar where the gauges are going).

Each gauge has the following:

1. Hot for bulb
2. Ground for bulb
3. Hot for gauge
4. Ground for gauge
5. Hookup to the gauge's sensor

This is the harness I'm talking about:



From digging around - it seems this harness will have the following:

1. Hot wire in run ( perfect for the gauges)
2. Ground
3. Instrument Illumination Input - go power when lights are turned on.

I'll look around for my manual - just wondering if anyone has the pinout diagram for this harness on a '95 EB.

Any potential problems using this existing circuit for only the gauges?

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post #140 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Found it in my EVTM manual:

LB/R is instrument illumination input - that's what I want for the Autometer gauge light inputs...and apparently patching into that circuit will allow the gauge lights to dim with the headlight switch.

W/P - hot in run - exactly what I want for the gauges.

I can even use that ground. That's great actually. Saves me from adding a circuit and the only wires that will have to run down from the A-pillar (gauges) is the wire that runs to each gauge sensor.

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