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1995 EB build - Everything comes in three's...

60K views 372 replies 29 participants last post by  Festus 
#1 ·
Getting my all my build thread info into one thread - since I hope to God I'm not buying anymore Bronco's anytime soon.


So last Summer - I'd been on the lookout for something to throw together for my son in college. He's got a 2WD '11 Silverado, and while it's been a good truck, he tends to fish out his kayak with what little free time he has (Div I scholarship athlete) and he doesn't want to mess up the Silverado. So an excuse for a project vehicle? He knows his old man pretty well.

I've always been mainly a GM guy - but I always like the Bronco's. And while I wasn't actively looking for a Bronco - I ran across a '96 XL on Facebook marketplace. Owner said it ran fine, her husband drove it everyday to work (he worked at the Ford Dealer Parts counter - that will become relevant later). One day it wouldn't start when he went to leave work. Replaced the battery. Still no start. Had it towed home. Where it sat, for almost TWO years. All the while they kept insurance on it and kept renewing the tags.

They bought it from the original owner in Texas before they moved to VA. No rust truck. The Driver's 1/4 panel has seen better days. The story I got was the previous owner had an incident with a trailer he was towing. Likely true.

Got it for a pretty good price. Half of what she wanted originally. Clean title. Of course it busted a brake line coming off the roll back when I got it back to the house.



Low miles (less than 120K if memory serves).

Zero Rot - just a bit crusty underneath and the surface rust from the 1/4 panel damage that was apparently never touched

The 1996 - Number One





Interior was even pretty clean - but a stripper XL model.



So I was in the midst of moving into a new place with my GF. Moving stuff out of her house (sold) and moving stuff out of my old house, trying to get it ready to sell, all while working on the new place. Almost 5 acres and two detached shops. With a 3rd coming hopefully next Spring. So needless to say, not much got done. However, after cutting grass and working on the land one day - took a break and decided to see what was up with the Bronco "bad starter". Surely the previous owner - who worked for a Ford Parts counter - checked the solenoid...right?

Put a new battery in it. Jumped the solenoid. Nothing. Posts were really corroded. Cleaned 'em off a bit. Tried again.

Let's just say it's a good thing no one was there watching me. I almost jumped three feet in the air. It fired right up and idled like nobody's business, albeit loud since it's got virtually no exhaust past the mid pipe.... No rattles, no squeals, no knocking. I shut it off, checked fluids (all good) and fired it up again. Hell, the AC even blows cold!!!! :ford

So I get a notification on Facebook marketplace about a Bronco - since I'd looked at several before buying this one.

1993 EB - no engine. No rust. Went and checked it out and pulled the trigger. For the price I couldn't NOT buy it.

Again, super clean wheel wells.

Story on this truck was pretty simple. Current owner (had several project Fords at this place) bought it to swap an engine into. Previous owner had it in a barn. Engine went bad, they pulled the engine and were going to replace it. It sat.

Last inspected in '03.

Undercarriage of this one is actually cleaner than the '96. Interior is dirty but surprisingly in GREAT shape. Power buckets aren't even ripped. Does need the armrests fixed though.

When I called him he had several offers, no one had showed up with the cash. Drove there that night, looked it over, handed him the cash and got the title. Showed up two days later with my buddy's F150 and a Uhaul car trailer (my '84 GMC was down with a busted rear brake line). So of course no engine and no winch, my son was wondering how we were going to get it on the trailer. I decided to go old school.

Backed trailer up to the Bronco and lined the ramps up. Unhooked trailer, tied a tow strap to the F150 and the front crossmember of the Bronco and pulled it up on the trailer. Haven't tried this in years, and it worked a lot easier than I remember.

Maybe 3 miles from where the Bronco was, one of the trailer tires decided to blow out. Luckily these were backroads and I was going maybe 30mph when it went. Luckily found a large pull off, called UHaul and waited.

Hour and half and one new tire / wheel later, we were on our way again. @ 60 mile trip to the house was uneventful.

The 1993 (Number Two)

Where it was sitting when we picked it up:



Got it back to the house - of course this one busted a brake line too getting it off the trailer:







So the plan was to use the drive train from the '96 in the '93. Then it would get a 6" lift, 35's, go through everything etc.

Then life got in the way. Getting my old house ready to sell, work, working on new house and other more important things getting in the way of wrenching.

Then I got a notification text from an app I had on my phone for Craigslist. When I was still looking for Bronco's.

1995 EB. ZERO Rust. (most are rusted here in VA). 6" Lift. Recent 35" BFGs, Mickey Thompson wheels.

Yeah - I bought another one.

1995 EB - No rust. Guy I bought it from was keeping it at his shop where he works (not the best part of town - especially after dark) and a while back someone decided they needed it more than he did. They broke the passenger window, and butchered the steering column, stole the face to the stereo - but couldn't manage to actually steal it.

6" lift. He just did all new shocks. 35" BFG's, M/T wheels. Interior is actually mint with both seats being power. Paperwork in a folder on the truck show where the previous owner paid over $5K in 2011 for a crate engine, and a rebuilt E4OD. Not to mention locker and gears. From the way it goes - I'm assuming they ditched the 3.55's for 4.56's - but won't know for sure until I get inside the pumpkins for a check and fluid change.

The current owner just installed new Ball Joints, all new tie rods and steering linkage and new exhaust.D

Thing runs really well for having a monster exhaust leak (Cracked manifold I'm betting)

Got it for a good deal. Let's just say I paid less than half what someone paid to put in an engine / trans and other work a few years ago.



 
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#93 ·
Got the cushion replaced in the driver's side seat last night. Apparently someone had tried to fix it before with tape. And not to mention it had a broken spring in the base. Robbed one from the donor seat. Difference is ridiculous.





And I found the PERFECT match for the Bronco tan interior trim. Went by an auto body paint supply store I've dealt with for years. They mix SEM stuff. He recommended to check that SEM stuff they had on the shelf first.

So my GF immediately picked out this color by the cap:

SEM color coat medium neutral

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-15883-Me...960&s=gateway&sprefix=sem+medi,aps,139&sr=8-1

Bought one can. Took it to the parking lot to spray on the spare seat trim (broken tab) to see if it matched. After letting it dry you literally can't tell where I sprayed. Bought the other cans of it they had on the shelf.

Which is ironic. Since one of the threads I found when searching here contained a post from someone saying Medium Neutral was a perfect match - but then someone posted the SEM color chart picture and it looked GREY - and the person who said it matched never posted again:

Here's the the thread:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/foru...410642-interior-paint-match-tan-interior.html
 
#94 ·
Scored a front console from a '07 F150 today. $50 in mint shape from a local salvage yard. Haven't had time to touch the Bronco lately - working on applying limewash to our brick house. Hope to be done with that this weekend if the weather holds.

For those interested - limewash is simply powdered hydrated lime mixed with salt and water. It protects the brick and it's a TON cheaper than paint. It's what people used to apply to brick houses before paint became so much cheaper / common to acquire. Enough to do my entire 2000 sq/ft house cost me about $80 with some leftover.

Going to get the '95 inside the shop and start work on the wiring / interior. Get the tailgate wiring / switches squared away, install the power mirrors from the '93, strip the interior and install sound deadener under the vinyl mat, replace / repair / dye all the interior panels, dash panel and install stereo, speakers, console etc.

Likely I'll pull the top while I'm doing all this to make it easier.

Then after that, it's tear the top half off the engine, water pump, hoses, thermostat, gauges, headers etc.
 
#95 ·
Doesn’t look like the weather’s going to cooperate for the next week or so for either of us. Was supposed to pull a friends ‘67 Catalina out of his backyard in Chesterfield and haul it to his new house in Louisa... grounds going to be to wet on either end for the truck or trailer. :madder

Just leaves more shop time!
 
#97 ·
Okay so I've been tied up working on the house. I was finally able to get a simple hardtop storage rack built so I can store the top, get the '95 into the shop (without the top) so I can start rewiring the tailgate, stripping / fixing the interior panels, getting all the wiring straight etc. Having the top off makes that much easier.

(4) ratchet straps + (2) 8ft 2x4's, + (4) u-bolts + (4) lag eye bolts. Total investment around $30. Takes maybe 30 minutes to install, even less to get the top on it once the top is unbolted.
I park my '17 Mustang under it in the garage pictured with zero issues.

Pictures should be self-explanatory







Hope to start tearing into the 95's tailgate wiring shortly. Going to pull the regulator and install new guide rollers, build a new harness, getting everything working, then lube it all up and make it weatherproof.

After that I'll be adding the power mirror from the '93, dyeing the replacement door panels, dying / installing the rear panels from the '93, installing sound deadening, dyeing / installing the late model F150 front console, get the stereo installed / wired up, install the '93 dash pad, install the replacement gauges / bezel, install a dual USB charger into the OEM powerpoint location, replace / repair headliners and get it all buttoned up.

After that I'll move to the engine / mechanical work.
 
#98 ·
Okay so I finally started on the tailgate. Got the key cylinder removed from the '96 and started tearing down the '95 Tailgate.

Noticed one thing - the '96 XL has an interior brace for the tire carrier, even though it doesn't have one.



So I started tearing down the '95 EB tailgate. If you run the tailgate window almost always the way down, you'll line up all the bolts so you can easily remove the regulator. NOTE: As has been posted here numerous times - the regulator is harmless if the window OR the window motor is still installed. Take both off it'll spring shut (it's pre-loaded) like a rusty, dull bear trap.



Unbolt the window from the regulator / slider arms by removing to two nuts on each side of the window.(11mm). They are easily accessible on the LH side as pictured.



On the RH side they are reachable with a 7/16 ratchet wrench. (I couldn't find my 11mm wrench)



After you get these removed - you can push down the channels attached to the regulator arms and the window is essentially detached.



To fully remove the window you need to remove the two weatherstrip end caps. Remove the screw on each, tilt it up and it comes right out. I'll be replacing these anyway.



Next you need to remove the inner and outer weatherstrips that run the length of the tailgate. I'll be replaced these too. Take the screws out on each end then use a small screwdriver to pull the clips that hold the weatherstrip out.

Now the only thing holding the rear window in - are the clips that are taped into the wiring harness.



Personally I like popping the top tabs off - as seen in the picture. That way when I reinstall the harness I can simply use a zip tie to hold the clips. I've dealt with those on other vehicles and it works well - it's easy and it's free.



With that, I pulled the window out - and found a spot for it in the back seat. Next up pulling the regulator. IF you lined it all up to begin with you can unbolt it. You'll need to remove the two bolts on the RH side of the tailgate that hold the black inner tailgate carrier brace and remove the brace.

Then just remove the other 3 11mm regulator bolts and you can get the entire thing out through the opening on the LH side.



You can see the motor on the '95 was replaced.



I also bought new window rollers. These are trashed. To install the replacements, I'll have to drill these rivets out and bolt in the new ones.





And so I've got the famous separation of the outer tailgate skin. I'll have to make a few calls and get someone to weld in a couple of small metal braces.
 
#99 ·
I replaced the rollers that fit inside the window bracket. The OEM rollers were trashed. The rivet that rides inside the original plastic roller were shot. To install the new ones you need to drill out the old rivets and bolt in the new rollers. I used my dremel with good cut off wheel, cut the rivet off close to flush, notched the back side of the rivet with the cut off wheel, started with a small drill bit, then worked my way up until the rivet basically fell out. Bolts the new roller assembly in, good to go. Didn't take long. Maybe 15 minutes each side - after I found the package of cut of wheels I hid from myself that is.



Next up I removed the entire harness. For those who don't know - the switch activated by the lock cylinder in the tailgate is permanently wired into the harness. So I wanted to test it to make sure everything actually worked. It didn't. So I cut off the harness that plugs into the safety switch - this switch is located on the LH side of the tailgate (inside). It senses whether or not the rear window is all the way down or not. If the window is NOT down all the way - it interrupts power to the window motor. If it IS down all the way - it passes power and the window motor can run. Apparently the switch failed (fairly common I'm guessing) and a previous owner simply wired directly to the motor wiring to make the window go up and down.

To remove the harness - unplug it underneath the rear of the Bronco. Then remove the LH taillight. Pull the harness up through the hold in the body on the LH taillight housing. If you have rear defogger - don't forget to unbolt the black ground wire that is connected inside the housing as well.

Then push in the seal inside the housing and keep pulling harness to the tailgate. Same with the seal where the harness enters the tailgate. There is a wire clip hidden by the LH side window rail (where the rear glass travels) you can remove that easily - two bolts on the outside of the tailgate. Disconnect other wire clips / connections (some shown above) and you remove the entire harness.




So after cutting off the harness that plugs into the safety switch on the LH side of the tailgate, and connecting those wires, I connected the window motor wires (red / yellow) and connected the harness underneath after cleaning the connectors.

Now the switches operating by the key / lock cylinder work perfectly. Turn the key on - the dash switch works as well.

I've ordered the inner and outer weatherstrip for the tailgate, now I need to order the end cap weatherstrips, the weather strips for the window run channels (installed on either side - inside the tailgate) as mine were TRASHED. I also need to solder on a replacement terminal for the rear defogg - in my case it's the LH side on the window - which is ground. I verified with the rear defogger switch engaged and key on, I have power to the positive rear defogger wire.

Will likely also order u-nuts for the top (I already ordered new bolts from bolt depot).

Now I need to dig in to the best way to repair the split on each side of the tailgate outer skin. The way it's placed - and the metal that's still there - I almost think a small metal brace drilled and bolted in would work better and be much easier than welding.

I'll be taking the top off the '93 EB parts truck so I can remove the rear panels and also get the braces / mounts for the top / trim that are missing from the '95.
 
#100 ·
Ordered a bunch of misc crap from Bronco Graveyard. Trim screws, clips, weatherstrips etc.
Hopefully it gets here by Friday - I'm off and would love to wrap up the tailgate.
 
#101 ·
@ctandc Have you checked the condition of the metal window guides? I assumed mine were intact, but when I tried sliding the new weatherstripping into them, they broke right off (mounts were rusted through). I tried to rebuild my tailgate in a weekend too, but the guides ruined that :doh0715:
 
#103 ·
Yup - they're good. This truck is ridiculously rust free - especially considering it spent time in Myrtle Beach, SC, then stayed in the VA Beach area for YEARS. I actually removed the LH guide to get better access when removing the wiring harness. After seeing the metal guide was fine - the rubber guide 'insert' was literally dry rotted I also removed the RH and it was in the same shape.
 
#102 ·
@ctandc awesome thread. Just read the whole thing, don't know how I missed it (send me a pm or something next time, lol) but I'm subscribed now. Looking forward to more; really nice work. :thumbup

I've had my eye on that Skyjacker FA600 Pitman Arm for some time now, I just hate to part with $200+ for it.
I have the Superunner steering and I was good, that extra 1+" has me not having as much tie rod threaded into the sleeves as I would like. It's probably gonna be my next purchase.
 
#104 ·
Funny thing - a key or button must have gotten stuck. Apparently you liked my last post 63 times :histerica

Thanks. As for the Pitman Arm - I didn't want to part with it either. I've never owned a TTB truck. An old buddy of mine has worked on these for years - the first thing he mentioned when I was tracking down the wandering / darting the '95 had was the steering box and the Skyjacker pitman arm.

He recommended the AC Delco rebuilt box. Said he'd never had one come back after installing it. He told me to stay away from the Cardone and other steering boxes. He did mention the aftermarket steering boxes - but also said if the truck was going to be wheeled a ton and was mainly a driver - the AC Delco would do just fine. The AC Delco box was cheaper than the parts store boxes (Rock Auto). A tick over $100.

He mentioned the Skyjacker drop arm - he said it kept the steering geometry very close to OEM and if I wasn't worry about rock crawling and bending tie rods - it was worth the cash.

The pitman arm is ridiculously hefty and well made. Makes the OEM pitman arm look puny. And even needing an alignment, after those additions - the truck drives straight as an arrow at all speeds - no darting, no wandering, etc.

Well Bronco Graveyard came through. Stuff is shipped and will be here tomorrow. I ended up ordering a bunch of other small odds and ends that wouldn't have made since by themselves (Shipping cost as much as the parts).

- Rod clips for the tailgate handle / latch assembly (I need to pull it and straighten it out a bit so it engages the releases with less effort, I'm betting this is common)
- Trim screws for the access panel
- Trim screws for interior panels (I hate painting screws and bolts)
- U nuts for the top hardware - I already bought new allen head and standard head bolts for cheap from Bolt Depot
- Weatherstripping for rear window guides
- RH and LH Tailgate weatherstrip end seals

Now I have to figure out how I want to fix the tailgate outer skin separation. I haven't fully decided if I'll be installing the spare tire carrier from the '93. The '95 had it originally, and all the bracing / etc is still there, but it was MIA when I bought it. Since this will be my son's daily - and he doesn't drive all that much (college student / athlete so he's on the road a lot) and the truck will only be an hour from the house - I'll likely initially just send him off with a small air compressor that will plug up to the cigarette lighter and a can of fix a flat.

I'm leaning harder that way now - after seeing the separation beginning on the RH side and a bit on the LH side. Can't decide if I want to make a small metal brace and attach it underneath those brackets (where the weatherstrip end seals sit) or simply weld the outer tailgate seam on both sides. A little primer on the edge of the tailgate won't bother either of us.

I've searched here but haven't run across a ton of info about how people repaired this - I did see Steve83's pictures / write up. Don't know how I feel about rivets or cutting an access panel in the side of the tailgate.
 
#106 ·
I have the Superlift #1109 dropped arm now; it's good for 4"-', but I think I'm a little passed that. The Skyjacker is more for 8", which is what I need with the Superunner steering.

Just need to find some extra "fun ticket$"

As far as the tailgate goes, on the '66-'77 broncos we used to tig weld the outside seams together so they wouldn't separate. If you got somebody good with a tig torch, you won't have much, if any, body work to do.
 
#108 ·
@ctandc , I need a favor when you have a chance. I think I may have changed out the pitman arm at some point and time on my '93 and don't remember. I pulled it off the old truck when I built this truck and put the stock pitman back on the '93 when I sold it. Anyways, I took a good look at it today and it looks pretty extreme so I may have swapped it a second time when i went higher. I measured approx. (no glasses) 4.5" of drop. Just want to be sure before I order another one. Again, I'm in no rush, just curious now.
Thanks. Sorry for the hijack.

Joe
 
#110 ·
Well I found a shop just down the road that will weld up the tailgate on the '95 tomorrow morning. He does a lot of automotive stuff and after talking with him, I'm sure he can handle it without issue. If I can get that done, UPS notified me all the Bronco Graveyard parts arrived so maybe I can get the tailgate together tomorrow.
 
#112 ·
The guy who welded the tailgate did a great job. I'll hit it with primer before I put everything together.
The inside tabs that join the inner and outer shell of the tailgate break. Mine were broken on both sides - so blaming it on the spare tire carrier doesn't fly with me.

The RH outer tailgate shell literally had ONE factory spot weld holding it to the inner tailgate. It let go. That caused the RH outer shell to MOVE back and forth, which eventually broke the thin tabs between the shells.



His MIG welder fixed it right up. He didn't want to heat the metal up too much - but he got good welds on it and it was rock solid BEFORE he welded the inner braces:





Got the outer tailgate trim pulled from the 93 EB. Both trim pieces are in really good shape, but the '95 has some spots on the black trim strip - where as the 93 piece is dirty, but mint.

So I tore into it and got the tailgate handle (remote control) working great.
There is a interlock rod that runs to the bottom of the tailgate from the handle assembly. If you search threads - you'll quickly figure out that this rod keeps the tailgate from opening until the window is ALL the way down. So of course if you roll it MOST of the way down - you try the tailgate handle and it doesn't open. So the linkage from the handle gets bent.



This is the interlock rod running to the bottom of the tailgate.



The yellow clip where my thumb is, that's where the interlock rod clips in. That bracket turns when the window goes all the way down, thus allowing you to open the tailgate via the handle.

I decided to get rid of this. So I used a Dremel to slice up the back of the rivet then drilled it out.



So here's a shot from inside the tailgate - and the result of people trying to open the tailgate when the interlock rod was still engaged:



Here's the handle removed.



Just slide the part of the yellow clip that holds onto the rod. This will allow you to pop the rod out pretty easily.



Here's the latch assembly (remote control) out and orientated as it bolts in. Three bolts. I circled the washers of the bolts so I could bolt it back in the same spot so the latches disengage correctly.



Here it is flipped over. See the yellow clips.



Here you can see the bent latch. I bent it back just enough and tested the latch / handle with everything reinstalled. Works great. Closes and latches easily and solid. Unlatches and opens A LOT better.

So my 95 had rear defogger but was missing one of the copper tabs that is soldered to the rear defogger printed circuit on the window. You have one power tab and one ground tab. So I robbed a tab from the 93 EB glass. Used the solder gun to heat the tab while holding the tab with needle nose pliers. The solders gets soft and you can remove the tab





Here's a close up of where the tab solders in.



The tab itself.



Here it is soldered onto the 95 EB glass.

Heading out in a bit to start putting everything back together.

New inner and outer weather strips, window guide weatherstrips, rebuild the harness etc.
 
#113 ·
Next up, had to clean the adhesive residue from the 90's mirror tint that I peeled off the rear window. Years ago, a buddy who did tint gave me a great tip - get some cheap window cleaner that has ammonia. The ammonia dissolves the tint residue. So I soaked the rear window down, and after several coating and wiping / scrubbing it off with a microfiber - got 99% of the crap off the window.

Next up needed to clean the tailgate trim up. I pulled it from the 93 EB and it's in REALLY good shape - but absolutely filthy.



Not bad.

For anyone needing some trim, I have the original trim from the '95 EB. The trim is in good shape, there's just some flaws in the black trim strip that runs across the middle

Installed the new trim. Keep in mind - the lock cylinder is held in by a metal u clip inside the tailgate. However, the trim installs OVER the outside of the lock cylinder, so I installed the lock cylinder and then the trim.



I scavenged the window motor connector from the '93 harness. I used these connectors that you use a heat gun to melt the solder bead in the middle plus the weather proof seals on the end of the heat shrink. The black rubber piece connects to a hole in the bottom of the tailgate, keeping the window wiring out of the way of the glass. The connector was broken, so I ran a tie wrap around the harness, and tightened it. The connector of the tie wrap locks it in, since it won't fit through the hole.



Here's the harness going to the motor clipped into the shell to keep it out of the way.



I also pulled the regulator / window and lubed everything up with white lithium grease, reinstalled the tire carrier brace and pulled the latch / remote control and replaced all the yellow clips and cleaned / lubed up the latch assembly.



This the metal wiring channel that screws into the tailgate. You run the two wires that go to the window motor inside it (Taping them to keep them in the channel) then attach with the screws and it keeps the wiring tucked out of the way.



Tan w/ black, red w/ yellow. One of these wires runs to the window motor. The other wire runs to the factory safety switch installed inside the tailgate on the LH side. If this switch is bad, the window motor will not get power. This safety switch prevents you from operating the window with the tailgate open. I bypassed it. Another solderless connector with some extra heat shrink on top.



Started taping up the harness. I pulled ALL the old tape off so I could make sure ALL the wires were in good shape.

So now I need to clip the key switch onto the lock cylinder, then replace the weatherstrips inside the window runs, bolt those in, install / bolt up the window, then connect up the rear defog wires, and then install the inner / outer and end weatherstrips.
 
#114 ·
So I got the wiring harness installed - and before installing the glass I wanted to test it out. I had tested it out before - and it worked. This time. NOTHING. I had power at the connector under the truck going to the tailgate harness. I ended up having to strip off all the tape on the harness. And believe it or not, I was dropping power at the OEM female window motor harness. I took it back apart and the wires running into the connector were GREEN. Totally corroded. I ended up converting the window motor connections to weatherproof bullet connectors.

Tested that and everything worked. Taped the harness back up, got it installed, key switch and dash switch work great.



This is the OEM harness I removed from the '93 EB. Wires looked fine - until about 3-4" from the connector and they were totally corroded.



Here's the connector I've been using. I used them at a friend's shop a while back working on a race car. I like how easy they are to work with and they are essentially weatherproof.



Here's the old weatherstrips inside the window guides. They were SHOT.



The new guides installed. I lubed up the channel and the new weatherstripping with silicone.

I bolted the new window guides in.

I then slid the window into the guides, installed the regulator channels (after sanding the inside of them and cleaning them up where they ride on the rollers on the regulator arms) - greased everything up with white lithium grease. Then got the window bolted down.


Got the new inner and outer weather strips on the tailgate opening. And the end caps. Kind of pain to get everything lined up, but got it done. Everything lubed up with silicone. Tested everything out and can't believe how smoothly the window travels up and down from either switch.

I still need to connect the rear defrost wires. I have to put a connector on the ground defogger connector and tie the wiring harness down to the window mount.

The kid came out and he started stripping out the interior of the 95. Got it all stored inside the '96 to keep it out of the weather.

No rust holes - just a bit of surface rust. Going to get some rust converter and coat the floors with spray in bedliner and lay some noise / sound insulation down before reinstalling the mat.

 
#115 ·
So there are things I'd like to do to the '95 - but in the interest of hopefully getting this thing ready to so the kid can take it back to college next month, some things will wait.

Plan is to get the front mat up, both rear interior panels out, hit the surface rust spots with a wire brush then hit them with a liberal shot of a spray on rust converter. After that I'm going to shoot a quick layer of spray on bedliner onto the metal, then line the floor with some Noico sound dampening panels.

Hope to wrap up the rear defrost wiring tonight and start on the floor. Then it's moving onto other things that are easier with the interior out. Front headliner, dash pad from '93, adding the power mirrors from the '93 (should be a straight bolt on and plug up) , rear speakers, stereo installed, USB charging ports wired in the current power receptacle, install the late model F150 console, install the '93 rear panels and trim (all the braces for the top are missing from the '95 - they are still there on the '93 - I honestly believe the top on the '93 has never been removed). Then it's put the speedo from the '95 into the donor '95 cluster I nabbed a while back, install the gauge bezel and wrap up all the trim.

Once the interior is back together, it's on to drive train work.
 
#116 ·
Had a little bit of time last night after work.
Got a new terminal installed on the rear defrost ground connection. Plugged it up, routed the wiring. Tested it with the window travel all the way up and down - seems good to go.



Tested power with rear defrost switch turned on - I've got voltage on the defrost grid in all spots. I'll consider this good to go.

I made a makeshift weather seal for the tailgate out of a thick contractor trash bag cut to fit and taped in. I'll redo it - I'm going to hit up the local craft store for some thicker plastic I can use for this and a few other things in the interior.



All buttoned up.

Then had a bit of time to continue tearing down the interior. Got both rear panels out and the front vinyl mat out. Pleased to see the rust free theme continues up front as well.





I think I'm going to use the sound barrier stuff I bought up front and just use the spray in bedliner in the rear cargo area - the vinyl mat will be going over this anyway.



Looks like I'll have good access via the trans inspection cover to deal with removing the AIR pipe from the back of the engine and plug the holes in the heads with bolts.

This is a '95 EB and originally had carpet. Somewhere along the way someone added a Bronco OEM vinyl mat - which is fine - but of course it came in base models and has the cut out for the manual shifted transfer case. I'm going to simply get a cheap floor mat used for the middle hump on a F150 and use that to cover the hole after throwing in some heavy duty floormats up front.

I really don't want to deal with heating / scraping up the sound insulation installed from the factory (front floor boards) so I'm likely going to installed my sound / heat barrier stuff over the top of it.

Hope to start gutting the rear of the '93 EB interior this weekend so I can clean / dye those panels (in MUCH better shape than the '95 panels) and get them installed. Install the rear speakers, new stereo, install the power mirrors from the '93 (95 didn't have 'em) and get the power door locks working.
 
#117 ·
Finally had some time to get back to the Bronco. Pulled the driver's door panel and realized the '95 ALREADY has power mirrors. But apparently a previous owner decided to install a master switch that does NOT have the mirror switch / control. Figures. Luckily I had a nice spare. Plugged it up and power mirrors both work great.

Now to address the power door locks. So I removed an alarm from this truck when I replaced the column. But there was not a Remote Keyless entry on that alarm and this truck does NOT have a OEM RKE module. So got the EVTM out and started tracing

The bottom of the master switch - the wires themselves were loose. And the all time power wire running to it (power locks) was twisted together and just taped over. So I used the extra master switch I had and rewired the new switch onto the harness. Windows great - power locks NOTHING. Power is getting to switch so I started tracing.

On the Passenger side kick panel - I found a pair of SPEAKER WIRES twisted and half-assed soldered into the two pink wires (power door lock control wires). They ran to nowhere. Removed those and temporarily twisted them together - still nothing. I opened the harness on the driver's side and cut the larger Pink w/ black and Pink w/ orange wires that run directly to the door lock actuator. Give one side power / one side ground - and they actuator should cycle. Jumper wires to my spare battery and it the actuator worked. After that I twisted the previously spliced wires on passenger side back together and all of a sudden I had power locks from the passenger side. I had Unlock on the driver's side - no lock. I pulled the lock switch from the other master switch, cleaned the contacts...and now they all work.

I'll clean these all up this week, get them connected, and tape up some various wires that looked to have been spliced into in the past. After that - I have to figure why I have a random pair of wires (one brown one black - they don't look factory) that looks to come out of one of the harnesses that run to to the power lumbar on the seats.

I hate people who mess with wiring and have no clue. At least they were consistent - the RH rear speaker was hooked up with two wires literally jammed into the factory connector.
 
#118 ·
So here's the wiring for the OEM power mirrors - the plug is tucked into the door. Since a previous owner decided to replace the master switch / cover with one that does not have the control for the power mirrors



And here's a great previous owner wiring job (one of many so far) the power to the master switch (BLK w/ WT) apparently broke. So they just twisted a random jumper wire onto it and taped it up in the harness. Not kidding.



I'll get pictures of the hacked up power lock wires at the passenger kick panel - a length of speaker wire "soldered" into the power lock feed wires. Lovely.

FYI - I've been looking for a better plastic vapor barrier for the tailgate and the door panels when I put the interior back together.
Believe it or not - HOBBY LOBBY. Their fabric section, they have (3) different thicknesses of clear plastic. I paid $14 for 3 yards of it. Long enough to cut one piece for the tailgate and have extra for doing the door panels.

And to attach it - so you can actually remove it again when you go back in there:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Bla...eywords=08578&qid=1563196030&s=gateway&sr=8-1
 
#119 ·
So yesterday after work I wanted to wrap up the power lock / door wiring.



This is what I was dealing with. The length of speaker wire in my hand, was twisted onto the Pink wires shows (door lock actuator wiring going to RH door - and crosses back to the LH door in the other side of that bundle / harness) and a glob of solder was added and some tape. High quality installation.

I spliced the OEM wiring back together. Finished splicing in the donor master switch from the '93 EB.

NOTE: I didn't grab a picture, but there was a wiring difference in the old master switch / 95 OEM wiring and the 93 EB wiring of the master switch. I haven't checked the '93 EB to make sure - but I'm assuming at this point it's because the '95 EB I'm working on does NOT have an OEM RKE (Remote Keyless Entry) module. I'm going to assume the '93 does. I know the EVTM schematics for the power locks differ between having the OEM RKE module and NOT having it.

Regardless the only difference was the pink wires going to the master door lock / unlock switch. The location of the two pink wires were opposite on the '93 Master switch. Every other wire was identical, so I wired / spliced everything in - but only temporarily spliced the two different pink wires to test. I had to reverse them - and looking at the old master switch wire locations versus the '93 EB master switch wire locations - it made perfect sense. The Unlock vs Lock seemed to be reversed - again I'm guessing it has to do with having an RKE module or not.

Regardless everything is wired up, tested, power mirrors, locks and windows work. Taped the harnesses up and decided to mess with the radio.

I already had a new JVC head unit - so I removed the old unit (the face was stolen during the aborted Bronco theft attempt - the reason I ended up owning this Bronco) and found that they appeared to use aftermarket harness / adapter - a little digging and I find out it's the correct Metra 70-1770 adapter.



I threw in the new JBL rear speakers - and the Memphis 6.5 speakers already installed up front actually work. There's a bad spot in the RH front speaker wiring somewhere (let me find my shocked face) and I was actually shocked how good the thing sounded. It'll work just fine for now. During Winter break we might throw some time and money at a decent system - we'll see.

Next up replace the ashtray with the one from the '96, fix the cigarette lighter wiring, and find out what these mystery wires are that were on the floorboard - seemingly part of the factory wiring harness that runs across the floor (part of it feeds the power lumbar seats)

 
#120 ·
So I started digging through the '95 Ford EVTM manual I bought a while back (for all those who don't have one - get one. The paper version is only like $30, a brand new reprint on Ebay - I also have the electronic service manual which is great) and found out what the "mystery" wires are.

The BLACK and BROWN w/ Light Blue wires pictured (which I found spliced and taped together when I removed the vinyl mat) are actually the warning buzzer / chime wiring that goes to the switch on the LH seat belt assembly. That makes sense.....there was no switch there when I removed the LH seat belt assembly. I'll make the splice permanent and call it good.
 
#121 ·
Finally had some time for the Bronco...

Hard to scavenge shop time in the midst of doing house remodel - just got done replacing a bathroom floor I wasn't expecting.

So I got the rear area cleaned up - sprayed the two spots of rust I found. A bit of corrosion, but no major rot. Wire brushed the loose stuff out, then hit it with some rust converter. Then started spraying the rear with aerosol bedliner. I'll finish that up tonight hopefully and get some pics. Then it's on to wrapping up the dash:

- swapping PSOM into the donor gauge cluster.
- installing Autometer A-pillar gauge cluster and gauges
- donor ashtray and fix cigarette lighter wiring
- donor dash pad swap
- finish up radio /speaker installation
 
#122 ·
I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and other house projects, but I was able to get some time to get back to the interior.

The former owners apparently had various stereo systems in the car. It was a hodge podge. I never trust someone else's wiring work - so I ended up running new speaker wires to both front and rear. Fishing them into the doors was fun......

Got the wiring cleaned up - soldered everything in. Pulled the dash pad from the '96 and installed it. Also swapped in the ashtray (the '95's was busted).



The dash shell itself under neath / behind the glove box - where the glove box mounts - was actually cracked. I simply used my soldering iron and soldered / fixed the crack. No more rattling and it appears very solid.

The aerosol bedliner worked well after I got the inside rear quarters and rear floor cleaned up.





Next up need to swap in the '95 speedo to the mint instrument cluster I scored and get it mounted. Then pull the Airbag control box, gauge a pillar and swap the headliner in from the '93 and more to go.
 
#123 ·
Okay - so the majority of house projects are done. Slowly getting back to the Bronco.

So here's the spray on bedliner in the back:





I'm going to add some sound deadening material to the inside of the 1/4 panels and likely some to rear floor as well.

And so then it was on to cleaning the extremely dirty - but mint - gray door panels and get them dyed.

Prep Sol - or SEM's version is great for getting the final grease etc off of parts you're getting ready to paint.



Here's the stuff I used. This matched perfectly when tested on a trim piece at the auto body supply store. It came out a bit lighter on the door panels. Haven't decided if it's enough difference for it to matter or not right now.



Before and After



The coated metal trip pieces clipped into the door panels were in crappy shape - appears to be a vinyl coating over metal. I removed them (be easy and use trim removal tools) they looked bad against the freshly dyed panel. So I pulled 'em out.



I test fitted the late model F150 console I scored for cheap. The front holes for the factory console line up great. I'll just drill a hole for the rear mount.




And I decided to dye the console black for some contrast.



I also pulled the armrests to dye them separately, and replace the driver's side - since it was worn and I had nice armrest on a trashed panel.

Going to mock the panels up tonight and see if the color difference is enough to hunt down another color dye.

Oddly enough it looks like there is two different colors in the '95's interior (and the '96 XL and the '93 EB - all tan) a darker tan for the dash etc and a lighter tan for the other trim.
 
#124 ·
I'm trying one other color. Got a lead that apparently SEM Monterey is real close to the darker "mocha" tan in these trucks. Of course my local guy has ONE can in stock. Ordered a few cans to try. Guess we'll see.


Need to start pulling the rear interior from the '93 EB - but everytime I start - it starts raining.
 
#125 ·
Okay so let me know how to post this so people can find the info (a new thread / a sticky / facts whatever) I've found the out of the can match for the mocha interior in the 92+ Bronco.

It's SEM Color Coat 15723 - Monterey







So got both door panels and armrests painted. Then I went to install the new INNER window seals / strips. Turns out EVERY door panel I have access to has at least ONE broken off plastic tab - the square hole that holds the clips for the inner window seal. So I engineered what I hope to be a decent solution without drilling / bolting etc. Three of the holes were intact. 1 broken and 1 completely gone. Got the strip sitting flush with the inside of the panel - like it's supposed to - and used some Gorilla glue and clamped it down. I let it sit overnight, I'll check it tonight or tomorrow morning to see how sturdy it is. Have to do the same thing to the other panel as well.



Here's a different view of the newly painted panel. MUCH better match. Damn near identical



Decided to look at the Autometer A pillar dual pod gauge mount I'll be using. It's designed to go over the top of the factory A pillar trip. Drill a couple of holes through it into the OEM piece and use the included push pins to attach it. It doesn't look as bad as I initially thought, so I'm going to initially try it like it's designed. If I don't like it, I fitted it by itself and with a good trace and cut, I could plastic solder the Autometer piece to a cut down OEM piece (you need the OEM section of the A Pillar trim that runs along the top of the door).



This is where it overlaps the top trim. Not as bad as I thought



Another view:



Dyed and ready to go



Hoping to get some work done tonight and the majority of the weekend will be devoted to the Bronco. I HOPE to get the front door panels installed and done, the gauge pillar and pre run the wiring, and get the '93 EB rear interior panels out of the '93 and cleaned / installed into the '95. Then I can go after the transfer case / transmission leak and then onto the mechanical work and get this thing out of my shop.
 
#367 ·
Okay so let me know how to post this so people can find the info (a new thread / a sticky / facts whatever) I've found the out of the can match for the mocha interior in the 92+ Bronco.

It's SEM Color Coat 15723 - Monterey






So got both door panels and armrests painted. Then I went to install the new INNER window seals / strips. Turns out EVERY door panel I have access to has at least ONE broken off plastic tab - the square hole that holds the clips for the inner window seal. So I engineered what I hope to be a decent solution without drilling / bolting etc. Three of the holes were intact. 1 broken and 1 completely gone. Got the strip sitting flush with the inside of the panel - like it's supposed to - and used some Gorilla glue and clamped it down. I let it sit overnight, I'll check it tonight or tomorrow morning to see how sturdy it is. Have to do the same thing to the other panel as well.



Here's a different view of the newly painted panel. MUCH better match. Damn near identical


On panels that have broken mounting tabs for the interior window seal/ sweeps I use a few well placed lath screws. They are short enough that they don't rub the glass and the seals can easily be replaced again at a later date.
I have noticed that the aftermarket sweeps don't like to stay in place even if the tabs are still intact so I have done the same even on panels with good mounting tabs.

Nice job on the interior refurb by the way.
Tool Bicycle part Coil spring Automotive tire Rim






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