Well I finally got back to this, although it was late so I just finished disassembling the passenger side.
Last report ended at the ball joints, and I expressed the concern that I would not be able to get a socket on to the upper nut. I was right, there was no way I was going to get a socket on to it...
...but I didn't need to worry; I threw an adjustable wrench onto it and it broke free easily - a little too easily if you ask me!
I am still a little concerned with how close the nut is to the spring, but hey, it's a spring; it moves!
I left it in place 'til I figured out how everything was going to come apart.
The bottom bolt was harder to break free. I had this breaker bar ready to go (yes, that's an extension that got hammered onto it years ago, that I could never get apart
), and I had a four foot cheater pipe just in case, but just a bit of effort, short of needing the cheater, was necessary to get it started. After that, I used the ratchet wrench to finish taking it off.
Like with the other nut, and by direction from the book, I also left this nut in place as well. The reason for this is because, as Stang warned, and as I've seen others warn as well, when you knock the ball joints free, the knuckle is free to fall on your feet and anything else in the way. Well, by leaving the nuts in place, it falls loose, but stays in place 'til you finish removing the nut. Much more controlled that way.
...and really, it's only necessary to leave the bottom nut.
I tried pounding on the upper post like the book said, but nothing was moving, so I used the pickle fork and a small sledge on the bottom ball joint, and after a little hammering, it fell loose.
Then I just finished taking off the nuts while holding on to the knuckle.
For anyone else who's never seen it apart, here's a pic of how it comes out. As you can see, if the nut's are removed, it's just going to drop as soon as it breaks free.
Well, that was it for today; I'll start on the other side tomorrow. Since I know sorta' what I'm doing (and I won't be taking as many pics), it should go a lot faster.
I have a couple of questions.
#1) The camber/castor adjuster busted a tab; I'm assuming I should replace it? Where would be the best place to get one?
...and this seal is cracked and leaking. I don't know about the other side yet, but the two in the middle don't look cracked. Should I give some thought to replacing all four of the linkage seals if one of them is worn? Is it easy to do?