Iolaus' '90 Ball Joint Replacement - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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So I need to be cleaning out all the old grease, top to bottom, and replacing it with synthetic? Any recommendations? What should I be using to clean it all up, lacquer thinner?

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post #22 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Iolaus View Post
So I need to be cleaning out all the old grease, top to bottom, and replacing it with synthetic? Any recommendations? What should I be using to clean it all up, lacquer thinner?
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post #23 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by redwagon View Post
at that point i would stick a floor jack under the ball joint and use the weight of the truck to help keep it from turning.
I tried stuff like that with no luck. I ended up torching it off. You just have to be carefull you don't cut the caster camber thingy.

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post #24 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Iolaus View Post
BTW, that plumbing problem was exactly what I thought; the valve feeding the water heater was busted. I removed the whole assembly (threading was just covered with crap; no cutting/sweating involved) and slapped it against my hand to open and close the valve. $20 & 1/2 hour of work and it's all better. Some might remember me having problems getting out a shower valve to replace it last year (something I never did). Well apparently, that was just the first place the inequality of pressure had started evidencing itself. It finally slipped almost shut yesterday, cutting the hot water to the point that my wife refused to shower in it this morning. She's going to be soooo happy tonight.
Like I said, it was an ongoing thing that had just gotten progressively worse and then suddenly plumeted. I showed her we had steam in the room again and she was jumping up and down with excitement! I think I made points

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post #25 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sixlitre View Post
I'd just wipe the inner spindle clean

with a rag and wash the inner spindle bearings with gas or varsol. Then hand lube them up with synthetic grease.

I use the Canadian Tire house brand synthetic grease.

As far as the socket you'll end up into 3/4" drive stuff pretty soon, so buy a whole set of off shore 3/4" drive impact sockets and an adapter so you can use your 1/2" drive flex bar.

Sixlitre
I got a one pound can of Mobil 1 Synthetic and two large cans of brake cleaner. I'll wipe everything down with rags to get the bulk of, and then work it all with the cleaner and some brushes.

...and I got the sockets and a torque wrench from Sears. All my socket stuff is Craftsman, so if I break it....

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post #26 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 09:10 PM
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So how goes it?

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post #27 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 09:28 PM
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Don't be using a iphone or similiar phone with internet looking at FSB directions at the same time when you are doing your balljoints, I don't think they would cover it under warranty when its been raped with grease!
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post #28 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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So how goes it?
I don't work at night.

Did plumbing in the morning, shopping for stuff (including a rocking horse refinishing project I doing concurrently) during the afternoon. Got home, and my wife had already gotten there, so I started dinner (she works, I'm a student ). Tomorrow morning will be staining what I sanded out a couple of days ago, so that it can dry for a day before the poly finish, then back to disassembly on the Bronco.

The rocking horse is kind of important. There's a girl who I raised for the first 7 years, who rode it as a child, who now has a 1 yr old of her own out in Massachusetts. We stayed in touch, and I held onto the horse all these years without telling her, figuring she'd want it eventually. Her little girl's first birthday is later this month, and I want to get it to her in time for that.


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post #29 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
Don't be using a iphone or similiar phone with internet looking at FSB directions at the same time when you are doing your balljoints, I don't think they would cover it under warranty when its been raped with grease!
I'm using the Haynes more than Stang's writeup. I keep it up on the machine though, so when I do need to, I just come in and roll the scroll wheel with a clean spot on my arm.

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post #30 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 03:15 PM
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Your jack stands look to be in a good spot. I say this because 2 years ago, I went to change my springs and my stands were a little short, so I place them in a spot that seem to be ok but wasn't happy with (TTB). Shook the truck, seem to be ok, then with the prybar, I pryed on the axle housing to drop it down to get the spring out, then WHAM!!! Truck came down, my hand was in the wheel well and smashed my wedding ring, gashed my hand had to get 5 stitches. So now I have no wedding ring, decent scar, and BIGGER jack stands.
I knew a older guy that was crushed by a Ford Aerostar about 10 yrs ago. The van had an oil leak so he jacked it up with a hydraulic jack to inspect, did not use jackstands, got underneath the vehicle and the hydraulic jack failed. The vans ground clearance was low enough to crush him to death. Moral of the story: USE JACKSTANDS.... Placement is important too and one must use them properly.

I got the ones in the pics below a few years back from northern tool for $200 shipped. (I was replacing my rear springs with deavers in the pic)
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post #31 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by elroble505 View Post
Moral of the story: USE JACKSTANDS.... Placement is important too and one must use them properly.

I got the ones in the pics below a few years back from northern tool for $200 shipped. (I was replacing my rear springs with deavers in the pic)
I got the best Harbor Freight stands that money could buy out of that store's stock at the time. I think they're rated for 12 tons.

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post #32 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally got back to this, although it was late so I just finished disassembling the passenger side.

Last report ended at the ball joints, and I expressed the concern that I would not be able to get a socket on to the upper nut. I was right, there was no way I was going to get a socket on to it...



...but I didn't need to worry; I threw an adjustable wrench onto it and it broke free easily - a little too easily if you ask me!



I am still a little concerned with how close the nut is to the spring, but hey, it's a spring; it moves! I left it in place 'til I figured out how everything was going to come apart.



The bottom bolt was harder to break free. I had this breaker bar ready to go (yes, that's an extension that got hammered onto it years ago, that I could never get apart ), and I had a four foot cheater pipe just in case, but just a bit of effort, short of needing the cheater, was necessary to get it started. After that, I used the ratchet wrench to finish taking it off.



Like with the other nut, and by direction from the book, I also left this nut in place as well. The reason for this is because, as Stang warned, and as I've seen others warn as well, when you knock the ball joints free, the knuckle is free to fall on your feet and anything else in the way. Well, by leaving the nuts in place, it falls loose, but stays in place 'til you finish removing the nut. Much more controlled that way. ...and really, it's only necessary to leave the bottom nut.



I tried pounding on the upper post like the book said, but nothing was moving, so I used the pickle fork and a small sledge on the bottom ball joint, and after a little hammering, it fell loose.





Then I just finished taking off the nuts while holding on to the knuckle.

For anyone else who's never seen it apart, here's a pic of how it comes out. As you can see, if the nut's are removed, it's just going to drop as soon as it breaks free.




Well, that was it for today; I'll start on the other side tomorrow. Since I know sorta' what I'm doing (and I won't be taking as many pics), it should go a lot faster.

I have a couple of questions.

#1) The camber/castor adjuster busted a tab; I'm assuming I should replace it? Where would be the best place to get one?



...and this seal is cracked and leaking. I don't know about the other side yet, but the two in the middle don't look cracked. Should I give some thought to replacing all four of the linkage seals if one of them is worn? Is it easy to do?


Jeff

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post #33 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-18-2009, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Do not remove or move the caster camber thingy, just leave it!
Making good progress Jeff.
Thanks.

Even though it's busted like that?

Jeff

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post #34 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mopar12372 View Post
where did you purchace them for that price?
http://www.rockauto.com/

Jeff

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post #35 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Took me 1 1/2 hours to get to the ball joints. However, when I pulled the driver side axle I got gear oil coming out. The truck isn't perfectly level on the jacks; it's tilted a little to that side. I don't know what the oil level should be in the case; should I have expected this? Obviously, if I do the minispool I'll need to replace all that anyway.

I found out that the upper BJ nut on that side is a step up from 1 1/4 - looks like 1 9/32 or 33 mm. I got it off with the adjustable, but I'll need to find another socket to torque it back. The lower is finally giving me a problem, and the cheap breaker I have is starting to bend instead of breaking the nut loose. I'm going to go get a decent one, and while I'm there I'll get the socket I'll need later.

When I took the hub apart, the center gear piece was sliding loose, there were pieces of a ribbon spring that had self destructed (not the one I expected to see; that one's sitting in the cap) and a coil spring that was loose, unlike the other side. Is it toasted?


Jeff

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post #36 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mopar12372 View Post
from the looks of the brake fluid you need to flush the system, if you havent used the truck in a while it frobably has alot of water in the system as brake fluid loves water. second i would take the time and remove the rust from the rotors , take the brake pads and rub them around on the cement then look at them ,for cracks ,even hair line i would replace. or turn rotors and purchace new premium brake pads

thanks for the prices and location
Probably a good idea; it's been sitting for close to two years.

I was figuring on turning the rotors, and replacing the pads just because I had them out; be that much longer 'til I need to do it again.

Jeff

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post #37 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixlitre View Post
Sewiv does live inside the salt belt and Michigan is no heated picnic this time of year.

For the exact reasons Sewiv is describing I decided to farm my ball joints out. It was also -30 below at the time and I hadn't installed the radiant floor heating in the garage yet.

My mechanic ran into two problems that would have halted me and he still came inside the $300.00 estimate he quoted me.

For this Ontarian it was money well spent, though I think Iolaus should get top marks for his efforts.

BTW I've had muh kilt let oot at least once since my brutha's wedding in 88'.

Sixlitre
By the way reading your post in the muffler/cat thread, I was starting to have a feeling that you would be trying to get US parts since McGlinty ordered all older cars destroyed or something. It would be the same thing as shipping gun parts across the border, a no no in the eyes of the Canadian gov't.
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post #38 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Shadofax View Post
Is it the "wave spring" that is sitting in the cap that destructed? The wave spring is what is in Warn's premium hub. That may have bit the dust with the toothed gear coming apart somehow. The inner part of the hub...you may have had a snap ring come loose in order for that toothed ring gear to come out.
No, that one appears to be fine. The one that destructed is sized to fit the same shaft that the gear fits over - it's a little bigger than the snap ring. What's left of it is sitting under the coil spring in that picture. I'll take some better closeups after I clean things up a bit.

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post #39 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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BTW, the spindle came off with a little wiggling - no effort at all. I guess this lower nut is the price I pay for having the rest go so easily.

Jeff

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post #40 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-19-2009, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Iolaus View Post
No, that one appears to be fine. The one that destructed is sized to fit the same shaft that the gear fits over - it's a little bigger than the snap ring. What's left of it is sitting under the coil spring in that picture. I'll take some better closeups after I clean things up a bit.
Ok, that bigger floppy spring came out when that toothed ring came loose. Clean the grease out of the inner hub dial and see if you can see anything else broken. all this junk is usually retained by a snap ring or something to keep it as one unit, though you can disassemble them (and buy any new parts you might need if cost effective).

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