Iolaus' '90 Ball Joint Replacement - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 05:09 PM
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They just get pounded to death by the axle stub shaft bouncing on them.

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post #62 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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I got a ball joint press from Auto Zone and... I've been trying to get these ball joints out for two hours! I don't have a vice, and I've been trying to find some sort of jury-rigged way to hold it so that I can work my cheater bar, but no luck. I just can't get enough oomph on it to break them loose!

I even dug out the old porta-power that I inherited from my follks when they moved, to see if that would work, but apparently the seal is broke; it doesn't move.

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post #63 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iolaus View Post
Well it kind of goes against the premise I mentally started with - that this would be a writeup of how to do it yourself - but I think I'm going to have to have someone else do this part, and I do want to get the job finished before I go back to school next week.

Where will you be, and what kind of beer do you like?
Just let me know Jeff.... I am in Covina during the day....

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post #64 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 12:25 PM
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Don't need no stinkin vise.

My impact gun does it just fine. :)

Iolaus. Take your knuckles and tools to the closest mechanic shop and see how much they'd charge ya to change em out. Should only take any competent mechanic with the tool you rented and their impact gun roughly 5 - 10 minutes to do.

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post #65 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
Don't need no stinkin vise.

My impact gun does it just fine. :)

Iolaus. Take your knuckles and tools to the closest mechanic shop and see how much they'd charge ya to change em out. Should only take any competent mechanic with the tool you rented and their impact gun roughly 5 - 10 minutes to do.
Given the option, I'd rather drive a little and pay someone I know and trust with beer or something than give my money to someone I don't know; builds better karma all 'round. (Lord knows I can use some of that!)

Tim, I'm getting ready to leave; I'll call you when I'm ready to go.

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post #66 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 04:02 PM
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It was an attempt at humour that clearly didn't work, never mind.

there is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people.
Only that in you which is me can hear what I'm saying
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post #67 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 05:12 PM
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Well, we got the ball joints pressed out and in...Jeff should be hard at work installing the knuckles back on....

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post #68 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Question before I do this because it isn't addressed in the instructions... I'm assuming I pack the boot with grease before installation. It looks like the bottom of the joint is already packed; will the fitting just not accept more grease if it's full, or can I screw up things by forcing more grease in??

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post #69 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 07:47 PM
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no, install it and top it up after you are done

there is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people.
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post #70 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redwagon View Post
I nomally install the cap and start pumping grease in...you will see the cap start to buldge when its full.
It flows through the joint that easily? Oh, I see. I didn't see the two channels in the cup at first.

Thanks.

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post #71 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltman View Post
no, install it and top it up after you are done
Quote:
Originally Posted by redwagon View Post
I nomally install the cap and start pumping grease in...you will see the cap start to buldge when its full.
Wait a minute, by "nominally," are you saying off the truck? ...or install the knuckle finger tight, grease it up, then torque it down?

Or am I worrying about nothing - just grease it up and get it on?

(There's one for you Steve. )

Jeff

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post #72 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 08:18 PM
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Like I said, install it and when everything is done and torqued to specs, grease everything then. Just make sure the grease nipple is accessible before you move on.

there is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people.
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post #73 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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I have them finger tight right now, but not greased. Is the boot supposed to drop down around the largest diameter in post #1? Without any pressure, it sits perfectly above it, like it was designed to be there.

Jeff

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post #74 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a pic of what I'm taking about. I know it will be driven further down of the bare side as I tighten it, but is this how it's supposed to look at this point?




Jeff

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post #75 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 09:11 PM
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snap the boot all the way in place first...torque the ball joint nuts to their specs and grease the ball joints...remember to grease the upper joint before installing the axle shafts...

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post #76 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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There's no ring or groove to snap into place; it looks like they're just supposed to sit in place.

The bottom joints look great...




...but the uppers are so cockeyed that the boot isn't sitting anywhere near straight. you can see in these pic how far off they are. ...and that's where they're supposed to be; I haven't moved the adjusting rings.



Jeff

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post #77 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 10:58 PM
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My top BJ boot looked similar to that position when I installed it. No worries Iolaus, it will fix itself over time.



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post #78 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 11:22 PM
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Steve can be such a PITA about stuff, but this is where I will always state the same thing:

Spicer balljoints
spicer non-greaseable.

I actually prefer their lifetime series non-greasable ujoints for driveshafts as well.

Torque NOTHING until you have your camber specs where you want them. Are you needing info. here Jeff?

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post #79 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadofax View Post
Steve can be such a PITA about stuff, but this is where I will always state the same thing:

Spicer balljoints
spicer non-greaseable.

I actually prefer their lifetime series non-greasable ujoints for driveshafts as well.

Torque NOTHING until you have your camber specs where you want them. Are you needing info. here Jeff?
Probably.

They are exactly where they were when I took the knuckles off; shouldn't that be fine?

Jeff

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post #80 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-22-2009, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iolaus View Post
Probably.

They are exactly where they were when I took the knuckles off; shouldn't that be fine?
I don't know, were you having any unsual tire wear issues? Were the tires looking nice and strait vertically? NOW is the time to make changes if you have adjustable upper BJ bushings.

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