Ok, so I gave up trying to get the ball joints pressed out with that rental press from AZ, and after watch Tim work it with a 20 ton press, I'm glad I did. Again, a huge "thank you" to Tim.
Here's the new joints installed. Aren't they purty?
I installed the zerk fittings for the greasable BJs. I didn't put the upper zerks completely flush because I was figuring that I was taking them back out and I wanted it to be accessable; they are pretty tight though. Now that I'm looking at the setup, with that angle and the height above the hole in the knuckle, there may be enough clearance to leave it in place. If so, should I bottom out the fitting? I'm not positive that it will align all that well for future use if I do.
Steve reminded me to use anti-seize but I wasn't sure about how much to use, so I erred on the side of caution and just used a thin film on all the parts - the inside and out of the camber adjuster ring, and the contact area of the ball joint shaft. these pics have it applied, so you can see how thin I applied it. It's a little thinner on the joint shaft.
So then I lifted it up into place and put the top nut on to hold it in place. I had already had it in place once, so the ball joints were already lined up to just slip into place. I thought that was good, as Steve had warned me not to get anti-seize grease onto the area that was getting some loctite in the next step, and avoiding having to work the shafts into alignment minimized the contact.
I was a bit worried about how much of the joint was exposed from under the boot when it got into place, but was assured that it was normal, and that with regular maintenance it would be fine. You can see from these pics how far off it is.
Next, I applied the loctite to the threads of the lower joint and the nut. Again, erring on the side of caution, I didn't really goop it up; I just filled the threads. I figured the nut would push the excess in front of it as I tightened it down.
So, according to the Haynes directions, I tightened the lower to about 40 ft-lbs. At this point, I ran into a problem many have mentioned, and used the solution recommended. The ball was spinning in the socket, and not allowing me to tighten it up, so I removed the zerk fitting
and applied enough pressure with the floor jack to immobilize the joint enough to let me apply some torque to it.
Next, I tightened the upper joint to about 90 ft-lbs; and then, using an adjustable wrench so I could see, further tightened it 'til the castle nut lined up with the hole for the cotter pin, and installed the pin.
Then back to the bottom nut for the final torque to 110 ft-lbs.
Finally, I topped off the grease in the ball joints. I kept pumping it in 'til the grease bulged the boot and started seeping out. I hope that wasn't too
That synthetic grease sure is a funky color.
With how the boot was sitting on the top joints, I never even saw it bulge; the grease just started oozing out the side, so I called it full.
So that's it for the ball joints; now I need to start putting things back together.