Iolaus' '90 Ball Joint Replacement - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #81 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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I never noticed anything off. My mechanic had worked on it several times before I parked it; he always test drives vehicles (which is how he noticed the loose steering, leading to him inspecting the BJs) and he's never said anything about alignment either.

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post #82 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 01:00 AM
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Remove it & apply anti-seize lube to the camber cam, the BJ stud, and the boss in the axle beam before you torque anything. It wouldn't hurt on the lower BJ stud, either.



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post #83 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroMan23 View Post
On that 20 ton press, will a cheapy press from harbor freight handle this job?
I know I have this job coming some time soon and need an excuse to buy a press.
20 ton sounds awesome.
thats basically what the press at my work is.

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post #84 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Remove it & apply anti-seize lube to the camber cam, the BJ stud, and the boss in the axle beam before you torque anything. It wouldn't hurt on the lower BJ stud, either.
Thanks, that had slipped my mind. The manual also says to use loctite on the lower nut but doesn't say anything about the upper; any thoughts on that? Is it because the cotter pin on the top renders the use of loctite moot?

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post #85 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 11:01 AM
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Yeah, there's no room for a castle nut on the bottom, and the cotter pin on top allows easier alignment adjustments. Don't get any anti-seize on threads where you plan to use threadlocker. Threadlocker IS an effective anti-sieze, but they don't mix.



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post #86 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Yeah, there's no room for a castle nut on the bottom, and the cotter pin on top allows easier alignment adjustments. Don't get any anti-seize on threads where you plan to use threadlocker. Threadlocker IS an effective anti-sieze, but they don't mix.
I have a question about the loctite. The directions say to clean the parts with "Keal 'n Prime Activator," but I looked up the stuff and it says that it just speeds up the hardening process. It's not actually required; it'll still work without the activator, right?

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post #87 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 11:16 AM
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Yes.



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post #88 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Three items on the drive shafts - two rubber seals and a plastic plate. I assume I can keep the plastic disk; am I replacing both rubber seals? ...or just the larger one? I assume they are both part of the spindle bearing seal?



Also, is there a seal at the shaft/diff joint on the driver's side that I should be looking at?


Yes, I have the ball joints done; I'll write up that part tonight.

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post #89 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 08:38 PM
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http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...repair_kit.htm

If you are in a hurry to get the truck back together, rush ship it and you will probably have the parts by Wednesday. On the above kit, just keep the spindle bearings that are included as spares. I cant remember if you changed out your hub seal as well, now is a good time to do that...

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...l_hub_seal.htm



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post #90 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Bought them separate at Pep Boys. I got the inner and outer seals for both sides - $23 and change. Didn't bother with the plastic piece; should I have?

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post #91 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 09:56 PM
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Jeff you should not need the plastic spacer unless yours is damaged, and what ever you do, dont knock the slinger off the axle shaft...its a bitch to get back on.

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Uh, slinger? ...and is there a seal at the shaft/diff joint on the driver's side that I should be looking at?
Metal ring attached to the stub shaft...check the link for Napa you will see it...everytime I knock one off, its a damn fight to get them back on...they stay on by pressure.

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post #93 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-24-2009, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
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Metal ring attached to the stub shaft...check the link for Napa you will see it...everytime I knock one off, its a damn fight to get them back on...they stay on by pressure.
it is a pressure fit. I ruined one trying to press it on without a press. got them after that, but I forget now what I did to make the job easier.

Edit: go back to post 240 jeff. Stan shows Red's post about the napa link...blow that pic up once you open it, upper right corner is the metal slinger. I honestly and not sure now if that is the same thing needed for TTB's based on some other posts. Just don't remember anymore. maybe you don't have that?

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post #94 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Shadofax View Post
Edit: go back to post 240 jeff. Stan shows Red's post about the napa link...blow that pic up once you open it, upper right corner is the metal slinger. I honestly and not sure now if that is the same thing needed for TTB's based on some other posts. Just don't remember anymore. maybe you don't have that?
Oh, it's the plate that the seal presses back against? ...goes between these two pieces in Steve's Diagram? I didn't realize it could easily come off; I'll be careful cleaning that part.

[IMG][/IMG]

Figures I'd be doing this just as a storm came through; I've noticed a little dusting of surface rust on some of the parts I've already cleaned (no, they're not out in the rain). I'm assuming that little bit can be wiped off with no concerns?

I'm going to go with just sanding the rotors; I'm starting to get that end of the month pocket-book blues right now, and this project has had a lot to do with that.

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post #95 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I gave up trying to get the ball joints pressed out with that rental press from AZ, and after watch Tim work it with a 20 ton press, I'm glad I did. Again, a huge "thank you" to Tim.

Here's the new joints installed. Aren't they purty?



I installed the zerk fittings for the greasable BJs. I didn't put the upper zerks completely flush because I was figuring that I was taking them back out and I wanted it to be accessable; they are pretty tight though. Now that I'm looking at the setup, with that angle and the height above the hole in the knuckle, there may be enough clearance to leave it in place. If so, should I bottom out the fitting? I'm not positive that it will align all that well for future use if I do.



Steve reminded me to use anti-seize but I wasn't sure about how much to use, so I erred on the side of caution and just used a thin film on all the parts - the inside and out of the camber adjuster ring, and the contact area of the ball joint shaft. these pics have it applied, so you can see how thin I applied it. It's a little thinner on the joint shaft.





So then I lifted it up into place and put the top nut on to hold it in place. I had already had it in place once, so the ball joints were already lined up to just slip into place. I thought that was good, as Steve had warned me not to get anti-seize grease onto the area that was getting some loctite in the next step, and avoiding having to work the shafts into alignment minimized the contact.

I was a bit worried about how much of the joint was exposed from under the boot when it got into place, but was assured that it was normal, and that with regular maintenance it would be fine. You can see from these pics how far off it is.





Next, I applied the loctite to the threads of the lower joint and the nut. Again, erring on the side of caution, I didn't really goop it up; I just filled the threads. I figured the nut would push the excess in front of it as I tightened it down.





So, according to the Haynes directions, I tightened the lower to about 40 ft-lbs. At this point, I ran into a problem many have mentioned, and used the solution recommended. The ball was spinning in the socket, and not allowing me to tighten it up, so I removed the zerk fitting and applied enough pressure with the floor jack to immobilize the joint enough to let me apply some torque to it.



Next, I tightened the upper joint to about 90 ft-lbs; and then, using an adjustable wrench so I could see, further tightened it 'til the castle nut lined up with the hole for the cotter pin, and installed the pin.





Then back to the bottom nut for the final torque to 110 ft-lbs.



Finally, I topped off the grease in the ball joints. I kept pumping it in 'til the grease bulged the boot and started seeping out. I hope that wasn't too much.

That synthetic grease sure is a funky color.



With how the boot was sitting on the top joints, I never even saw it bulge; the grease just started oozing out the side, so I called it full.



So that's it for the ball joints; now I need to start putting things back together.

Jeff

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post #96 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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I don't recall anyone answering this... On the driver's side where the axle enters the differential, I can see all the way into the diff. I'm assuming there is a seal involved; is it something accessible that I should be inspecting?

Jeff

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post #97 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iolaus View Post
I don't recall anyone answering this... On the driver's side where the axle enters the differential, I can see all the way into the diff. I'm assuming there is a seal involved; is it something accessible that I should be inspecting?
Im pretty sure you'd have to remove the third to work on that seal.



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post #98 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 05:46 PM
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Here is what it looks like. Almost, but not, impossibe to remove and replace. But it would have to be done with the knuckle removed.

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post #99 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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The anti-seize said it dissolves in all oils; in the absence of gear oil, after I clean the axle, should I use it to initially lube the end that enters the diff?

Jeff

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post #100 of 174 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar12372 View Post
wont hurt it / grease is ok too !!
All I have now is synthetic.

I just found out the shop gave me the wrong inner bearing seal for the rotor. Fortunately, I needed to return the puller to them, so I was going back there any way; I just thought it would be after I was finished!

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