Broken Rear Seat Mounting Bolts - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Broken Rear Seat Mounting Bolts

I'm trying to replace the carpeting in my '94, and was removing the brackets for the rear seat and broke two bolts off flush on the inside.

Any ideas how to get them out? Also, Any source for new bolts with that thread? I imagine any bolts I try to get in a junkyard will be worse trying to get out than my '94, which is a rust free California truck. I was surprised they all didn't just unscrew easily. I was able to get 2 bolts unscrewed, and then I broke one and figured it was a fluke. After the second one broke, I stopped.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 11:37 AM
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Weld a nut to whats left under the truck, crank it out. Specialty bolt place. Those are some big ****ers and they're fine thread. Other than that and maybe grade there's nothing special about them. There must have been something else going on. Mine is From Florida and the Bolts were in great shape. It would take alot to break one.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 11:58 AM
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Yo 92FSB,
Had one broke when at dealership when having Child Safety Seat Tether Attachments installed for free.
Tried knocking the broken bolt's shank down and out, but no-go.
Bolts are 1/2-20 fine thread, 2 inches long. Bolt torque is 40-60 Lb-Ft


And an air gun to remove the frozen nuts under floor pan. Helped mechanic install it; needed him below and me cargo area to attach nut to bolt...


Try to grind the top of the bolt flat so you can get a center punch mark & then drill it 1/8" only, about 1/2" deep (basically the thickness of the nut that's holding it). Then drill it progressively larger until it spins out the bottom, or you get close to the threads. If it doesn't spin just from drilling, then try to grab it from below to screw it out the bottom.


As for the bolts & washers, we needed a LOT of PB Blaster POURED IN FROM ATOP. Prior, I had cleaned the threads below the nut with a Dremel wire wheel and sprayed PB . Some say the nut is welded to floor pan bottom, but we didn't see any evidence of this. The weld could have been a tack weld that rusted to dust.


Last second addition;

Here is a pic of the nuts;

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks pfun41, but I'm not sure I will be able to find a 1/2-20 Fine Thread nut to weld on. If I had one, I'd probably snap the lower portion of the bolt off. I think I will try meisk5's suggestion and drill them. Maybe Fastenall can get me the 1/2-20 fine thread bolts I need.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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I can't imagine the bolts would be welded to the floor pan. If it was, how would they install the carpet?

'92 Cabernet Red / Dark Charcoal XLT 5.0L.
'94 Cabernet Red / Opal Gray XLT 5.8L.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 12:50 AM
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on all my 78's the nut is welded to floorpan for ease of install on the line

if you have a welder,get some new nuts correct thread ,thread them on to remains of bolt on underside and weld nut to bolt,get it pretty warm and use a socket and bolt will probably thread right out the bottom easily unless it had a big shoulder on it
or it should not be too hard to drill it out
you can always just drill it straight through with a 1/2 drill bit and install a new grade 8 bolt and new nut on bottom side on top of welded one or drill 7/16 '' and run a tap in there to make the threads again
either way pretty easy area to work on drilling through and you can always use a coarse thread too if rethreading .
I do not recommend starting small and stepping up in drill sizes as it ruins drill bits as you begin relying only on the outer edge of the cutting lip,not using the complete cutting lip from center point of drill

it doesn't take too much effort to run a GOOD 1/2'' drill bit through the bolt ,just use a slow to moderate speed and some cutting or penetrating oil to keep drill bit cool,running your cheap single speed drill is not good here either, fast drill speed makes too much heat

also this is not the place for a harbour freight 3000 drill bits for $19 kind of a drill bit!
get a good metal bit and you will be glad you did
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92FSB View Post
I can't imagine the bolts would be welded to the floor pan. If it was, how would they install the carpet?
Yo 92,
The nut is welded to floor pan bottom, but we didn't see any evidence of this. The weld could have been a tack weld that rusted to dust. I should've written, "it is welded to underside of..."


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 01:18 PM
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Ive had to just cut around bracket and put my carpet in that way. I put velcro on the bottom of the carpet to keep it from moving around. Those bolt heads with break the first chance they get. When I had my 95, I went though all that crap. I torched it, and torched it, and torched it. the heads broke, then I bought one of those stud grabbers and tried to remove it from the bottom. Then the stud broke off when I over torqued it with a 1/2' socket wrench. It took me 20 mins to remove the dog gone stud from the grabber. I then tried to drill it out. After blowing 3 bits and using different sized e-z outs, they were still in there. It's just easier to cut around those brackets.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 11:02 AM
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Man I tried every trick that was recommended to me. All 4 seat bolts and the 2 latch bolts broke on me. The only way I got them out was drilling them out and putting new bolts and nuts. Took FOREVER and wore me out but that was the only way. I used the drill America cobalt bits. Broke a bunch of em but kept at it. Good luck.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 06:01 PM
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And, I thought I was the only one to break those bolts........... I go without the rear seat, but at some future time will go after them. So, you guys are using ant seize with new ones.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 06:48 PM
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I broke the rear seat latch bolts also when fixing up the rear area. Heating and drilling was the method that worked for me. Anti-seize was applied to the nuts in the floor and all the bolts for the rear seat and seatbelts. I've had them out a couple of times since I did that without any problems.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 09:48 PM
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I guess I got lucky removing mine. I went slow, turning counter-clockwise and clockwise as I felt was needed, using a breaker bar (easier to control leverage when you're not straining against a short ratchet) and PB Blaster. You can sort of sense the bolts getting hot from all the friction...give 'er a break and move to the other one.

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