Nasty noise from engine - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by biggum View Post
You may find it does the same thing with a push bottom. Whack the solenoid when itís sticking first. If the starter disengages when you do, youíll know itís not ignition related.

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I think he got the sticking/screaming starter thing solved in the post quoted below. If I read this thread correctly, his original problem was that it wouldn't crank. He then bypassed the NSS, but got the wires crossed up & had power from the reverse lights circuit feeding the solenoid which caused the starter to run on. He undid the crossed up NSS jumper, & now is back to a no crank issue. He has no voltage on the "S" wire to the solenoid, so is wanting the pushbutton to start the truck until he has a chance to track down the actual cause.

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Yah had the wrong ones jumped. So figured out which is what and top switch is reverse and bottom nss. Just put the truck in reverse and watched which wires turned off the reverse lights. Now I jumped the proper ones and no go on engine start. So would I be looking at the relay on the fender or the fuse for the relay?

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by El Kabong View Post
I think he got the sticking/screaming starter thing solved in the post quoted below. If I read this thread correctly, his original problem was that it wouldn't crank. He then bypassed the NSS, but got the wires crossed up & had power from the reverse lights circuit feeding the solenoid which caused the starter to run on. He undid the crossed up NSS jumper, & now is back to a no crank issue. He has no voltage on the "S" wire to the solenoid, so is wanting the pushbutton to start the truck until he has a chance to track down the actual cause.
Yes exactly. Now what's my best power source for the push button? I'm guessing a positive wire that is only energized when the key is in the run position connected to a push button and the wire continues to the S post on the starter replay?

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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I ran a code reader just in case and I got code 67 O which says Neutral Pressure Switch circuit failure , circuit open (3.0L MAP, 3,0L MAF-SFI, 3.8L SFI)

Now I don't have an AOD in it anymore and have a C6 and I'm using a B&M Mega shifter with its own NSS. Not sure if this code has always been there since the swap since I only just checked it. Either way it wont start in N or in Park so I'm guessing its the Ignition Switch module thing on the column?

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ok well I installed a new ignition switch on the column, made sure it actuator went in all the way but no ****ing go. So not sure wtf can be the issue? Are there are electronics that require the NSS to have a signal before power is sent to the S wire from the ignition switch?

Also is the tumbler suppose to spring back a bit after letting go of the key when the truck starts? LOL don't ever remember how its suppose to act.

For now I need to get the push button going as I'm gonna need the truck here and there in the next two weeks. Which hot on key wire can I use for the push button to the S terminal?

Werd!?
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Ok figure it out. I'm guessing actuator is bent. I didn't think of it as I replaced it a few years ago and couldn't imagine it bending or breaking so fast.Well it moves the rod but I guess the piece the rod sits in must have bent.

What I had to do it take the ignition switch off the column put the key to run and then use a screw driver to push the slider on the ignition switch all the way and the truck started :)

Now the fun part of taking apart the column once again.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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The actuator level was broken, what a piece of shit part, who designed this? This is the second time I had to replace it.

Werd!?
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 09:36 PM
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Yeah, someone should make a steel version to replace that pot metal junk. I'd bet many of us who have been thru the replacement hassle would jump on a better version.
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