Superlift Extended Radius Arm Install Help - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
 10Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #21 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 02:06 PM
Wild Cayuse
 
BigBlue 94's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hoyt, Kansas
Posts: 9,284
Bronco Info: 85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
iTrader: (6)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcoll View Post
If I'm not mistaken I believe the hole is 3/8''. I'm also considering sandwiching an aluminum plate between the radius arm and the axle beam to prevent the drill or whatever I use to go into the hole's threads. That is a peculiar tool BigBlue, I guess I will try a dremel tool or a drill with a burr to open the hole, might take forever but I'll let you guys know.
If you aren't in a huge hurry, I can loan you my cutter if you want. Pretty sure I have a 5/8" cutter with a 5/16 or 3/8 mandrel. It's made for use on a milling machine, but a drill can be used if you're careful.

A first step may be to use one of those step drill bits. Again, if you're careful, that should work.

Vote for Full-size Of The Month in January, March, May,
July, and September!

FOTM forum section
BigBlue 94 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 04:19 PM
Ford-a-Holic
 
cobrajoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 3,409
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie-Bauer 5.8/1974 Bronco 351C
iTrader: (0)
I'm not sure I would elongate the hole, but that's just me. I'm thinking that the bolt will go in if you install it on the axle first before you install the drop bracket end. Think about it, the radius arms are the same as the axle housings, the holes are parallel; or simply, more or less at 12 & 6 o'clock. (see red arrows below)



They only change position as the axle articulates. So, if you were to bolt it to the axle housing loosely, then install it into the drop brackets, you would be fine.Look at the difference in the left and right axle below, the arms need to rotate as they articulate, so you may have to hang or compress the suspension to get things lined up.



IDK, just my $0.02
BigBlue 94 likes this.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



MY BUILD THREAD
cobrajoe is offline  
post #23 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hcoll's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Miramar, FL
Posts: 202
Bronco Info: 1994 EB 351W
iTrader: (1)
Thank you Blue, if I need it I'll let you know!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
If you aren't in a huge hurry, I can loan you my cutter if you want. Pretty sure I have a 5/8" cutter with a 5/16 or 3/8 mandrel. It's made for use on a milling machine, but a drill can be used if you're careful.

A first step may be to use one of those step drill bits. Again, if you're careful, that should work.
Cobra I guess I could try that (I'd rather not elongate the hole) but I'm hesitant that I won't be able to get the axle back into the drop bracket or not have enough play to get the radius arm bolts into the axle while the radius arm is in the bracket. Do you think with the beam off the drop bracket there will be enough play if I still leave the radius arm in the radius arm bracket (I'm trying to avoid removing the radius arm from the bracket)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrajoe View Post
I'm not sure I would elongate the hole, but that's just me. I'm thinking that the bolt will go in if you install it on the axle first before you install the drop bracket end. Think about it, the radius arms are the same as the axle housings, the holes are parallel; or simply, more or less at 12 & 6 o'clock. (see red arrows below)



They only change position as the axle articulates. So, if you were to bolt it to the axle housing loosely, then install it into the drop brackets, you would be fine.Look at the difference in the left and right axle below, the arms need to rotate as they articulate, so you may have to hang or compress the suspension to get things lined up.



IDK, just my $0.02
BigBlue 94 likes this.

“With all things being equal, the simplest explanation tends to be the right one.”

― William of Ockham
hcoll is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 04:38 PM
Ford-a-Holic
 
cobrajoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 3,409
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie-Bauer 5.8/1974 Bronco 351C
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcoll View Post
...Do you think with the beam off the drop bracket there will be enough play if I still leave the radius arm in the radius arm bracket (I'm trying to avoid removing the radius arm from the bracket)?

It should, but that drivers side is a pretty heavy piece to try and man handle.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



MY BUILD THREAD
cobrajoe is offline  
post #25 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 06:09 PM
Wild Cayuse
 
BigBlue 94's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hoyt, Kansas
Posts: 9,284
Bronco Info: 85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
iTrader: (6)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrajoe View Post
It should, but that drivers side is a pretty heavy piece to try and man handle.
I used a floor jack to maneuver mine. An ATV Jack would be better

Vote for Full-size Of The Month in January, March, May,
July, and September!

FOTM forum section
BigBlue 94 is offline  
post #26 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:29 PM
Ford-a-Holic
 
cobrajoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 3,409
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie-Bauer 5.8/1974 Bronco 351C
iTrader: (0)
I do mine with a transmission jack on a lift, but that's not going to help him any....

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



MY BUILD THREAD
cobrajoe is offline  
post #27 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:35 PM
Registered User
 
Tchajagos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 391
Bronco Info: 93 XLT Stock as of now
iTrader: (1)
Here’s what I use to get the heavy beam in. Don’t have to worry about balancing it on a jack either.


cobrajoe and Native_Viking like this.

-Travis
Tchajagos is offline  
post #28 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:39 PM
Ford-a-Holic
 
cobrajoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 3,409
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie-Bauer 5.8/1974 Bronco 351C
iTrader: (0)
That housing sure does look puuurrrrdy.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



MY BUILD THREAD
cobrajoe is offline  
post #29 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:47 PM
Registered User
 
biggum's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,394
Bronco Info: 86 XLT 351 HO, Holley 650, 3" Exhaust, 6L Up, 265/75R16 Dirt Commanders, & 85 302 EFI, AOD, 6L Up
iTrader: (0)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tchajagos View Post
Here’s what I use to get the heavy beam in. Don’t have to worry about balancing it on a jack either.




Clever!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

When you have to shoot, shoot - don't talk.
https://binged.it/2LnJaeA
biggum is offline  
post #30 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 08:56 PM
Registered User
 
scottji's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 293
Bronco Info: '91, 6" long-arm, shackle flip rear, 35s, chromoly, f/r aussielockers, MM hubs, 4.56s
iTrader: (0)
First off -- you guys got some clean and shiny undersides of your trucks.

I'm late to the party, but I agree that I would NOT start elongating holes in your suspension.

I installed a superlift long-arm on mine, and didn't have the problems you seem to be having. I got the RAs into the beams with everything on the floor of my garage, and kept all the hardware loose. I hooked ratchet straps and I think I just sort of guided the RAs into the brackets as I lifted everything into place. I think the last thing I bolted up (besides the springs) were the axle pivot drop brackets. So I'd leave all the hardware and everything sort of loose until you get it all started. I think the hardest part was getting the pivot beams into the bracket holes, but with some persuasion, they got there.

And if worst comes to worst, a small sledge can provide the encouragement everything needs to get lined up.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20160921_075812.jpg (407.4 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20160924_122152.jpg (273.0 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20160921_075759.jpg (133.0 KB, 9 views)
cobrajoe and Native_Viking like this.
scottji is offline  
post #31 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 11:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 117
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottji View Post
I installed a superlift long-arm on mine, and didn't have the problems you seem to be having. I got the RAs into the beams with everything on the floor of my garage, and kept all the hardware loose. I hooked ratchet straps and I think I just sort of guided the RAs into the brackets as I lifted everything into place. I think the last thing I bolted up (besides the springs) were the axle pivot drop brackets. So I'd leave all the hardware and everything sort of loose until you get it all started. I think the hardest part was getting the pivot beams into the bracket holes, but with some persuasion, they got there.
This is how I did my SL arms too and had no problems whatsoever. But mine was a 4" lift not the 6". The extra amount of lift might explain the difficulty difference.

The current Superlift is a nice lift.
A lot nicer than the 1995 Rancho extended arms I have on another rig.
Native_Viking is offline  
post #32 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 06:14 AM
Ford-a-Holic
 
cobrajoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 3,409
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie-Bauer 5.8/1974 Bronco 351C
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Native_Viking View Post
This is how I did my SL arms too and had no problems whatsoever. But mine was a 4" lift not the 6". The extra amount of lift might explain the difficulty difference.

The current Superlift is a nice lift.
A lot nicer than the 1995 Rancho extended arms I have on another rig.
I'm over 8-9" and it wasn't that bad. I think he just may need to regroup and it will probably work out.

Either way, I'll find out in a few weeks when I take it all apart again to install the new housings and pick up the front another 1-1 1/2" to level the truck.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



MY BUILD THREAD
cobrajoe is offline  
post #33 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hcoll's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Miramar, FL
Posts: 202
Bronco Info: 1994 EB 351W
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for all the comments guys. It could also be my truck's front end isn't high enough even though the frame is on some HF 12-ton jackstands on the tallest setting. My friend will be helping me tomorrow so I'll keep you guys posted how it goes but it definitely hasn't been an easy install (might be under equipped tool wise). Going to try to avoid elongating the hole. Do you guys torque all your bolts to the correct torque-spec? I ask because there are some bolts that need to be torqued to 250-350 ft lbs iirc and my HF torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs.


Might as well ask now but in the hopeful event I get the front end done tomorrow what tools do I need to install the SL blocks in the rear, particularly for the U bolts? PS, I know blocks suck but I need to gauge how high the front-end will be before I install some AAL and a small block or 6'' lift springs.

“With all things being equal, the simplest explanation tends to be the right one.”

― William of Ockham
hcoll is offline  
post #34 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 10:34 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 117
iTrader: (0)
On the high torque values, my torque wrench, like yours, only goes to 150 lbs so I just used a robust 1/2" breaker bar leveraged with a 4' pipe and took it to RFT. (the verge of breaking the tool) and called it good.

On the rear lift blocks, I found that I had to drill the locating hole out a little bit in order for it to fit the factory leaf spring pin.
Also, keep in mind the correct orientation of the wedge.
The wedge goes under the lift block. I see a lot of people put it on top of the block, but that isn't correct.
The block needs to be oriented at ~90 degrees to the spring attachment point.

If the U bolts are 9/16, I would torque those to about 100 lb, sneaking up on it using chris cross pattern and re torque them at about 500 miles.
Blocks are fine unless you get into severe off road usage like rock crawling or climbing.

And in case you didn't notice, the Super Lift instructions have the torque values in them. They are in parentheses within the instructions. I didn't notice that at first glance.
Native_Viking is offline  
post #35 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 11:22 AM
Registered User
 
scottji's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 293
Bronco Info: '91, 6" long-arm, shackle flip rear, 35s, chromoly, f/r aussielockers, MM hubs, 4.56s
iTrader: (0)
With the high torque values, I hooked on a box end wrench and hit the other end of it with a hammer until it wouldn't move any more. Then double check it after a few weeks of driving. (You should double check all the fasteners after a few hundred miles anyway, and regularly after that -- I had a nut coming loose on my pivot drop bracket.)

For the rear, you consider a shackle flip? I'm pretty happy with the kit I got from Ruff Stuff. They're good for about 4" of lift without the need for blocks.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
scottji is offline  
post #36 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hcoll's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Miramar, FL
Posts: 202
Bronco Info: 1994 EB 351W
iTrader: (1)
Do you know what size wrench or socket I'll need to remove the ubolts, are they usually 9/16''? What I don't like about their posted torque values is they vary from 160-500 (slightly exaggerated but only slightly). For example on the coil stud rating they say torque to "240-460", really, lol?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Native_Viking View Post
On the high torque values, my torque wrench, like yours, only goes to 150 lbs so I just used a robust 1/2" breaker bar leveraged with a 4' pipe and took it to RFT. (the verge of breaking the tool) and called it good.

On the rear lift blocks, I found that I had to drill the locating hole out a little bit in order for it to fit the factory leaf spring pin.
Also, keep in mind the correct orientation of the wedge.
The wedge goes under the lift block. I see a lot of people put it on top of the block, but that isn't correct.
The block needs to be oriented at ~90 degrees to the spring attachment point.

If the U bolts are 9/16, I would torque those to about 100 lb, sneaking up on it using chris cross pattern and re torque them at about 500 miles.
Blocks are fine unless you get into severe off road usage like rock crawling or climbing.

And in case you didn't notice, the Super Lift instructions have the torque values in them. They are in parentheses within the instructions. I didn't notice that at first glance.


I have a little 4lb sledge that I used on the box wrench for the axle bolt on the passenger side and I marked it with a paint marker, guess that's good enough. How do you guys feel about threadlocker, might be too late for some of my fasteners but what abut adding them to the others, if so which one should I use Red?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottji View Post
With the high torque values, I hooked on a box end wrench and hit the other end of it with a hammer until it wouldn't move any more. Then double check it after a few weeks of driving. (You should double check all the fasteners after a few hundred miles anyway, and regularly after that -- I had a nut coming loose on my pivot drop bracket.)

For the rear, you consider a shackle flip? I'm pretty happy with the kit I got from Ruff Stuff. They're good for about 4" of lift without the need for blocks.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

“With all things being equal, the simplest explanation tends to be the right one.”

― William of Ockham
hcoll is offline  
post #37 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
hcoll's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Miramar, FL
Posts: 202
Bronco Info: 1994 EB 351W
iTrader: (1)
I like the Sky Reverse Shackle kit a little better than the Ruff Stuff because you don't need to send them measurements they bolt on right out of the box supposedly. Do you like rsk over aal or lift leaf springs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottji View Post
With the high torque values, I hooked on a box end wrench and hit the other end of it with a hammer until it wouldn't move any more. Then double check it after a few weeks of driving. (You should double check all the fasteners after a few hundred miles anyway, and regularly after that -- I had a nut coming loose on my pivot drop bracket.)

For the rear, you consider a shackle flip? I'm pretty happy with the kit I got from Ruff Stuff. They're good for about 4" of lift without the need for blocks.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

“With all things being equal, the simplest explanation tends to be the right one.”

― William of Ockham
hcoll is offline  
post #38 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 05:40 PM
Wild Cayuse
 
BigBlue 94's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hoyt, Kansas
Posts: 9,284
Bronco Info: 85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
iTrader: (6)
Garage
I use red loctite on bolts 1/4" and over, but I almost exclusively use grade 8 bolts. Blue on things smaller.

I have AAL on my 85 and they ride soft. But they are worn out, and I need new ones. I've had skyjacker lift springs and they are very sturdy. That bronco survived many bad roads and even going airborne with a high school driver behind the wheel.

Vote for Full-size Of The Month in January, March, May,
July, and September!

FOTM forum section
BigBlue 94 is offline  
post #39 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 07:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Oregon City
Posts: 119
Bronco Info: 1984 300ci HEI converted, T19 Swap, 31" tires
iTrader: (0)
I had good luck with Bronco Graveyard's shackle flip. Comes with all the hardware and bolted straight on after I ground off the rivets. I left the factory block in and it leveled the rear with the front 4 inch lift.
Inverhyt is offline  
post #40 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 06:13 AM
Ford-a-Holic
 
cobrajoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fairhaven, MA
Posts: 3,409
Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie-Bauer 5.8/1974 Bronco 351C
iTrader: (0)
Any luck on this?

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years



MY BUILD THREAD
cobrajoe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Bronco Forum > Bronco Discussions > 1980-'96 Bronco Tech

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Bronco Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. DO NOT USE Gmail.com accounts. If you only have a Gmail.com email please contact the administrator here

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
SAS NEWBIE QUESTIONS - NO FLAMING ALLOWED plug ugly Solid Axle Swaps 5625 07-06-2019 04:37 AM
Extended Radius Arm Mounting Point? bmw2 1980-'96 Bronco Tech 3 06-23-2018 02:51 AM
2.5" Tuff Country Lift kit install TRUCKY18 Technical Write Ups 31 03-31-2016 11:32 AM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome