actuator help - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Now, I have some news. I just finished messing with some stuff on the truck. Six, you were right. I used that rod and it turned over. I assume that means it is the actuator? I had to jump it because of the battery problem. I also noticed that the interior lights are not working. The switched ones do, but not the coutesy lights. I got it running and left it on for about five mins. I stopped it, then let it sit for ten. I had to jump it again. I still have no clue what it could be. Don't give up yet, PLEASE.

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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 12:35 AM
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Now, I have some news. I just finished messing with some stuff on the truck. Six, you were right. I used that rod and it turned over. I assume that means it is the actuator? I had to jump it because of the battery problem. I also noticed that the interior lights are not working. The switched ones do, but not the coutesy lights. I got it running and left it on for about five mins. I stopped it, then let it sit for ten. I had to jump it again. I still have no clue what it could be. Don't give up yet, PLEASE.
Forgive the cut and paste broncrog

but I think I really am getting carpal;

T MAX

Had that same actuator rod assembly go on mine two Decembers ago in front of a Ford dealership in a town a long way from home. It was obvious it wanted Ford parts and wasn't taking no for an answer so it stranded me in front of a Ford dealer (damn unreasonable female Broncos !).

The next morning I was in the Bronco the whole time holding a trouble light and passing tools to the super friendly master mechanic who taught me more in 1/2 a day than a one month course on columns could have.

There is a couple of special tools and pullers for getting that piece(which is critical to allowing the key cranking fuction at the different angles the tilt can get into) out and back in.

The way he was in and outta that column and the way he used a pick tool was awe inspiring. I vowed then and there to get some quality pick tools when I got back home and I did.

MAJOR TIP****************** LISTEN UP ALL NON CRANKING BRONCOS

I had thought the coil had died and swapped in a new one before taking it to the dealer (who more than earned his way out of being called a stealership). He told me it would have started that night before if I had done this;

He turned the key onto crank(nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started.

I was half pissed that I could have driven home that night if I'd known this, but realized that there probably wasn't a better Ford mechanic on the planet to have replace that actuator rod assembly quicker and diagnose the $11 column switch either.

SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD(with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP.

He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die).

He also recommended I change that pot metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day.

He also recognized my round copper contact disc on the column was getting worn out and that was probably the reason my cruise was no longer working. Man if they'd had one in stock I'd have had him chuck one in !

Also learned about a super fix on our coil plugs. Mine's wires were nearly broken off. Part #9111 socket is a brand new coil plug with two wires going into it that have to be 10 gauge (little re-engineering there Ford ?) and come with blue solderless butt connectors on the end of the 18" long wires.

That was real lucky breakdown dieing in front of that particular Ford dealer !

Hope this helps y'all !

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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 12:39 AM
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Pull the driver's threshhold & shoulder reel cover, and inspect the wiring for corrosion/damage. There should be a nasty plastic bag of wadding stuffed under the reel - pull it out & follow the wires up as far as you can see.



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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 01:38 AM
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B) Many people who fight this problem don't know that their columns DO tilt. Look at the slot where the blinker stalk goes in. Is it shaped like this <] ? If so, is there a vertical bar visible FORWARD of the blinker stalk? If so, you have a tilt column.
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On my 86' you puts yer left thumb gently onto the turn stalk end and push gently forward, whilst thy right hand (sitting on the wheel at 12 o'clock) gently pulls down.
Hey! I have a tilt column!
Thanks,
Ken
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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 02:21 PM
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I have had my truck for two years and just figured it out today, I am officially an asshole.

Stuff done so far: rebuilt 351w, Warn standards, Flowmaster 40 series, Bassani off-road y-pipe, FordRacing headers, B&M aux. tranny cooler, MSD cap and rotor, MSD coil, FordRacing plug wires, and Aussie locked rear

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 07:12 PM
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I have had my truck for two years and just figured it out today, I am officially an asshole.
Smile

You're in good company Like I said, being a Mopar guy I woulda gone my whole life thinking it didn't tilt, if not for Steve.

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 07:12 PM
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Many people ... don't know that their columns DO tilt.
See what I mean, Rog?



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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, now that the actuator is under control does anyone have anymore ideas about my draining battery? I am pulling my hair out here.

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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 07:44 PM
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Okay, now that the actuator is under control does anyone have anymore ideas about my draining battery? I am pulling my hair out here.
If'n yer dome lights are screwy

go with Steve's suggestion and check out the lime green wire where he describes. Mine's rotted out twice, though it didn't ground out on me, maybe your is.

I was SO PISSED OFF after the second time that when I stripped the Bronco for getting the roof A & B pillars repaired in hot lead, I pulled the harness to the roof. Then I cut out the wires for feet either way and soldered in new wires (a little longer too) to the dome and spot lights.

Never again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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One more question. I haven't fixed the actuator yet. I can start it like you told me, but when it is I can't put it in gear. Is that all part of the problem?

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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by broncrog View Post
One more question. I haven't fixed the actuator yet. I can start it like you told me, but when it is I can't put it in gear. Is that all part of the problem?
The actuator peice has broken off and now slid into the colum blocking the gear shift. Take the shroud off and with a small screwdriver pull the broken Cube peice up. The same thing happend to me at a resturaunt in the middle of no where.

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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 01:29 PM
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The actuator peice has broken off and now slid into the colum blocking the gear shift. Take the shroud off and with a small screwdriver pull the broken Cube peice up. The same thing happend to me at a resturaunt in the middle of no where.
Yep

and it ain't no picnic changing that pot metal POS either. I watched the Ford mechanic, as I was holding the trouble light for him. Let me tell you that was the best spent dealership money I ever shelled out(like I had a choice).

Broncorog

It'd be even easier scoring a whole working column out of a same year Bronco or F-150 and swapping the whole thang.

After watching the expert do it, when I got home I scored a whole 86' column , in mint shape (with keys ) and have it stashed in the garage attic.

Think about it !

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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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I will go to the junk yard tommorrow.
Thank You

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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 10:21 PM
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I will go to the junk yard tommorrow.
Thank You
Probably be worth it broncorog

Who knows, you get a working actuator and quite likely a working ignition switch too.

Don't take too long to swap the columns and you can save the old one and practice on it, changing the pot metal piece and trying to put it all back together. Keep it as the spare.

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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 11:02 PM
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Just an added note of ignorance, I had my Bronco for almost a year before I figured out how my tilt steering worked. I knew I had it, it was obvious to me, but I just refused to believe they used the turn signal leaver for the tilt, it seemed too flimsy to me. Finally I thought **** it, and lo and behold I had tilt steering.

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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Update, The actuator problem is gone. I fixed it and drove it last night. I still have the battery issue. Every time i stop, I have to get out and unhook the + cable. I am ready to give up and just take it to the shop. I have tried almost everything I can think of. Any more Ideas.

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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 02:26 PM
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Did you ever look under the threshhold? See post #23.

Now that you're sure the ig.sw. isn't staying on, you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck.

If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery (with a MotorCraft or Sears DieHard Gold).

If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem.



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