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post #38 of (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dash_cam View Post
Hopefully it's not too late now, but if one rotor is chewed up on one side, that's an indication of a faulty/sticking caliper. If I had seen that, I'd be inclined to replace it, if not both callipers. And that's a perfect time to inspect brake lines and hardware, too.
Not too late. Didn't get to touch the Bronco last night after work (downside to owning land is having to cut grass LOL) I did however verify the build date on the Bronco - 12/94. So hopefully that means I don't have those odd two piece wheel seals.

Doing the final price comparison this morning between Rockauto, Amazon and Ebay.

Originally Posted by dash_cam View Post
And I suggest doing all the bearings and seals, if you can. I've been caught doing the minimum but having to grab a couple unexpected extras to finish.

I was trying to figure out which configuration I had on mine and ended up settlng on the Dana branded spindle bearing kit. Everything was included and for perfectly.
Way ahead of you

I hate having to take something apart more than once to replace wear items that I should have replaced the first go round.

Replacing the following:

- Calipers
- Pads
- Rotors
- Front brakes lines
- Inner and outer wheel beaings
- Wheel seals
- Wheel studs (these have seen MUCH better days)

I'm also trying to decide on which spindle bearing / seal kit to buy.

Rockauto lists the Timken SBK4:

Bearing B2110, Seals 722108, 722109 and Ring price at $13, I'm assuming I'll need two.

I did see the Dana parts:

Dana DS707316 at $23 each.

Everything I can find has it containing the full spindle "rebuild" kit for one side, same as the Timken.

I hope to get everything ordered today. That way I can do the RH axle pivot bushing tonight, the Radius arm bushings Thursday or Friday ( I hope it won't be a big fight. Since I have a lift already, that means the radius arm drop brackets are bolted on. I'm hoping to break the radium arm nut loose, break out the impact and drop the bracket, replace the bushing and bolt it back up. Guess we'll see how that goes LOL) then start tearing down the hubs / brakes etc on Saturday morning.

I want to get the truck driving like I thing it should before I tear the engine down and get that all squared away.

I'm debating on doing outer u-joints while I have it torn down that far.

Thanks for the input.

Still wondering why the #12 relay was missing from the fuse panel when the 4WD seems to work without issue. It's got me thinking - since one of the receipts from a previous owner (posted earlier in this thread) mentions the shop installed a locker and gears. I'm wondering if they regeared the rear end and didn't mess with the front diff. I need to do a quick rotation / tire check on the rear driveshaft to see if the gears have been swapped from the stock 3.55's....

Also the tailgate works just fine. Apparently they totally bypassed the switches by running wires to the motor. Popped those on a battery - works fine. I'll likely gut the tailgate, replace / repair any wiring / switches and do seals at the same time.

God I love previous owners.

1995 EB (Number Three),1993 EB and 1996 XL - The donor twins. My build thread:
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