|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-20-2019 09:02 AM|
thequietman wrote on 19 July 2019, "Quantum fuel pumps are not all they are cracked up to be. I'm stuck in north GA because my fuel pressure cant be maintained.
It showed signs of this before but now it cant even maintain more than 22psi".
He has a 95.
|05-16-2019 09:47 AM|
Background; DTC 334 EGR (EVP) closed valve voltage higher than expected; "
rla2005 had previously written on 15 MAY 2019 in response to a DTC 334 thread started by CZ Eddie on previoys day;"...We have seen the rod on the sensor too long from the manufacturer. This will cause the closed EGR signal (via the EVP) to be above specification then trigger code 334..".
CZ Eddie replied on 16 MAY 2019;
" I cannot believe it, but you were RIGHT.
That stupid freakin dorky tater tot silly EVP.
Both the old brand-new one AND the new-new one that I bought, were DEFECTIVE.
I shaved a tiny bit off the end of the pintle.
Put it on the EGR.
Ran the OBD1 test.
Just 111 I loves you. 111 you are free. 111 **** the EGR. 111 time to move on now.
I put the spare old-new EVP on my bench grinder and took off as much metal as you can see in the pics below.
3rd pic is where it was before I touched it.
2nd pic is how much metal I removed from it.
And all is sooooo good.
I mean, pending drive test and all that.
But I'm going to buy the Motorcraft EVP anyways."
But Eddie wrote,. On 17 MAY 2019, "Oh yeah, and I installed the new Motorcraft EVP.
Oddly enough, it had a longer pintle.
So pintle length seems subjective to I guess, resistance. Maybe the non OEM units have the wrong resistance readings based on length."
|05-16-2019 09:36 AM|
Tmoore0028 wrote, "FYI I went through hell trying to figure out why my starter would get stuck on my 1987 Bronco. Replaced the starter, relay and the Solenoid and it was still happening. Lucky I have a pretty knowledgeable repair guy and after some trial and error, we determined the cheap relay for the Bronco is made in China and is significantly underrated. Would work for a while and would fuse after a couple of starts. Finally fixed the problem by ordering the relay from Ford. Hopefully saves you so headache."
|05-14-2019 01:39 AM|
|MikeW||Rule of Thumb: Always avoid Dorman!|
|05-11-2019 11:14 AM|
Dorman Harmonic Balancer for a 300-i6.
It delaminated after 1200 miles, as soon as I got to Moab.
|05-11-2019 10:34 AM|
NITROHANGOVER wrote on 11 MAY 2019 in his Powermaster Alternator installation that didn't Charge, "It was the dorman plug i bought to build a new alternator harness. Replaced with a motor craft no problems. Fuc dorman."
|03-31-2019 02:45 PM|
Tmoore0028 wrote on 31MAR 2019;
"Stater and Solenoid stuck 1987 Bronco
FYI I went through hell trying to figure out why my starter would get stuck on my 1987 Bronco. Replaced the starter, relay and the Solenoid and it was still happening. Lucky I have a pretty knowledgeable repair guy and after some trial and error, we determined the cheap relay for the Bronco is made in China and is significantly underrated. Would work for a while and would fuse after a couple of starts. Finally fixed the problem by ordering the relay from Ford. Hopefully saves you so headache."
|12-09-2018 10:46 AM|
12-30-2016, 09:25 PM
Maroon88Bronco wrote,"finally fixed
I had my starter continue to run before i could get the battery cable off until it ruined the starter with the key off. I replaced the starter and solenoid (mies5 note, it's tge relay mounted on passenger fender liner)` only to have it do it again a few days later . replaced the solenoid again and alternator went out during this time. I read on the forums where the ignition switch goes bad so changed that and the alternator and had it happen yet again went to another parts store and purchased another solenoid only to have it happen yet again , all of this within two weeks . Reading on this forum i saw where someone recommended buying a motorcraft solenoid . purchased it today and no issues yet but hopefully will fix the problem. Thanks for the help"
|09-02-2018 05:02 PM|
08-30-2018, 08:31 PM
Bronco Info: 89 xlt 5.0 aod trans 31x10.5x15 with 3 55 everything is bone stock
I did the same thing. Got a duralast and had the same issue and then I got the motorcraft problem solved. I have grown to believe these rigs love motorcraft parts.
Bronco Info: 1994 xlt 5.8l. Automatic transmission. Auto locking hubs.
Finally got around to ordering a motor craft one. Problem resolved. Lesson learn on non motorcraft sensors.
|09-02-2018 05:00 PM|
08-20-2018, 12:08 PM
Bronco Info: 1990 XLT, 5.8, E4OD, L/S both diffs.
My original TPS lasted 25 yrs. Replaced with Cat Quest one.
Lasted 2 yrs.
Back to Motorcraft.
|08-19-2018 07:16 PM|
08-17-2018, 08:27 PM
Just an FYI, I went through the same issue recently. Replaced the TPS with an autozone unit. Cleared codes. Same issue. Purchased a motorcraft unit off amazon, replaced the autozone unit with the motorcraft, everything ran fine after that.
It's possible you just got a shitty one. I'd be willing to bet a decent amount of the autozone sensors are just straight garbage
|06-14-2018 12:16 PM|
|MikeW||Anything Dorman, I avoid that brand like the plague.|
|06-14-2018 09:35 AM|
Found this just now in VENDOR REVIEWS:
Old 07-08-2015, Bikerpepe` wrote, "Thumbs down GoodYear Assurance Wiper Blades... crap!!!
ok, so I just wanted to get this out there. Apparently, this "model" of wiper blade has been recently discontinued. As a result... lots of stores are putting these out on "Sales" to get rid of NOS.
Avoid them at all costs! The wipers are cool and look very much like the Bosh ICON style... but the mounting clips are total garbage. I've gone through two sets and both just pop right back off when in use.
The second set were sent to me by GoodYear, direct... after I got online and pitched a bitch on thier feedback site. Worked with a rep for a few weeks trying to make sure I didn't muck something up and finally told 'em to send me a new set or I'd never buy again. The replacements... same exact crap. Obviously, I'll never buy GoodYear wipers again.
The mount they use for the "side post" wiper (b-12b) is total garbage on both sets and I've got more than a few extras, all crap.
Just FYI. Don't say I didn't warn ya! "
|06-04-2018 04:03 PM|
Boston wrote, " I've tried the A1 Cardone and Micro-Tech remanufactured EEC-IV and so far non of them have worked right out of the box." @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ng-eec-iv.html
|06-04-2018 03:43 PM|
"Differences in two junkyard computers
Awhile ago I posted about how we had tons of issues that turned out to be the computer and the aftermarket A-1 Cardone ones were pure junk" @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ml#post7101682
|05-04-2018 02:52 PM|
Voltage Regulator in a 79;
"...I went to Carquest and they gave me a replacement(BWD R400). I think I remember having a failure problem from new with this particular brand twice before. If I'm right, that's the third BWD regulator that has been a non-operable or faulty part from new.
I haven't installed the new BWD regulator yet. The old regulator has been through three alternators."
by MR SCHWIM in a 79 @ http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...igher-rpm.html
4 May 2018
|03-26-2018 03:36 PM|
"Cardone Brake Booster by biggum:
03-15-2018, "Cardone, First one hissed, second one would pump up and engage brakes when gas let off, third one had the adjuster rod seized, forth one so far so good!
03-12-2018, "4th hissed like crazy after s day or so. Another installed and good so far!"
Good luck big!
|03-22-2018 07:59 PM|
|pfun41||I'm starting to think most parts energy suspension sells for our trucks is defective. Ive carefully measured and checked before ordering every time and aside from the APBs just about everything they have sent me had to be massaged or cut to fit. The front sway bar bushings had to have the sleeved ground down and then the bushings for the bar were 1/4" too high, same shit with the rear. Way too late to return them now though.|
|03-22-2018 07:03 PM|
Qncrazy has a 1990 XLT 5.0L AOD 1356 with 3.55. 33x12.5 on 15x10,.
He wrote, "No More Zone For Me, Wheel Bearings.
Three days ago, I felt my wheel bearing start to go. Let me decribe what I felt. Pulling into my neighborhood, there is sharp left turn followed by a sharp right. As I made these turns, I heard a crunching sound and felt the wheel move. Thank goodness I was close to home.
I tore down the left front. As I pulled the hub/rotor assembly off, the inner bearing was flopping around. I went online to the Zone and made a parts list as I live 20 minutes away and wanted to make my trip short and sweet. I handed my list to one of the parts guys and he started pulling my list. However, they didn't have the wheel seals and had to order them. No way I would complete the repairs that night. On my way home the next day, I picked up the seals. When I got home, I began my repairs. I removed the inner bearing and race and compared them to the new ones. The new ones were considerably larger than the old. Another road block. I checked online which confirmed these are the right bearings for a manual locking hub. On my way home yesterday, I stopped to switch out the bearings for the correct ones. When I got home, I cleaned up the hub and installed the inner race and wheel bearing. When I went to install the wheel seal, It was too big. Son of a .... Again I check online and it indicated I had the right one. I drove to the Zone and asked for the seal for the autolocking hubs. Wouldnt you know it, that was the seal i needed. I went home and completed the reassembly.
Out of curiosity, I checked Oreilly and Napa websites. Both of them listed the correct parts. The moral of this story is no more Zone. I wanted to share this so other newbies won't make this mistake."
|03-15-2018 04:02 PM|
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
|This thread has more than 20 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|