|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-14-2019 08:15 PM|
|06-14-2019 12:16 PM|
|reptillikus||Power sounds cool, except those things typically fail when you need them most I like the idea of manual in this case, its simple and reliable.|
|06-13-2019 03:37 PM|
|cobrajoe||...almost like a transfer case shifter motor|
|06-13-2019 02:54 PM|
|bnkrtstk||I would have expected you to try to rig a window motor, or power lock actuator somehow.|
|06-13-2019 10:05 AM|
|reptillikus||Just saw your reply. I dunno what im going to do. The lever actually works pretty good, and i couldnt find any cable mount that looked like would work. The problem is it rotates 180º, and has a detent at both ends. I looked into throttle levers for various bikes, but they all have a spring to return to idle, and i need something neutral that will stay where i put it. On top of that, the cable still goes to a throttle plate with a push/pull motion, and i have a rotating motion. Mounting it sideways on the winch to try to pull on the clutch lever would probably work, except for that whole 180º-of-rotation part. Im not too worried about it right now, theres a lot to do before i really have to concern myself with it.|
|06-11-2019 11:43 AM|
|bnkrtstk||Would a hand throttle kit work?|
|06-03-2019 03:00 AM|
The issue is, the lever rotates 180° from free to lock, so I'm not sure how to rig up a push/pull cable to handle that range of motion. If I could find a cable that rotates inside it's sleeve instead of sliding in/out I'd be set.
No go on the clocking; Warn told me every other position on the gear box; that puts it out the front at like 30° up (which im pretty sure is underneath the light bar anyway) or down at a weird angle, or coincidentally, straight out towards the engine.
|06-02-2019 07:06 PM|
I would think a diesel engine stop cable might work.
|06-02-2019 05:43 PM|
I just had an epiphany. Cable drive! I need to find a cable that I can pin to the clutch lever, with a knob on the other end, to rotate the clutch. Then I can mount the knob right in between the slats on the grill!
I wonder if that would have enough leverage to overcome the detents on the lever, and engage/disengage easily. Maybe something boat related? Im gonna have to do some research.....
|06-02-2019 04:50 PM|
That's a tight, tough spot to deal with but I'm confident you'll get it whipped. Good call waiting though.
I'd hate to see you get something smooth and slick and then have to muck it up due to other components in the way.
|06-02-2019 02:31 PM|
I wish i had some super awesome update but i dont.
I came up with a solution that works, but im not super thrilled with. There is a lot less space than the pics show. Also, the clutch lever is tilted back towards the motor, and the gearbox can only be clocked every other position, so theres really no 'perfect' position; each one has its own issues to deal with so i stayed with this one.
I straightened the clutch lever...
...and then made a removable extension for it
It might look like theres a ton of room in this pic, but there totally isnt. I actually had to notch the bumper, valance & grill to get this to fit.
This is the 'lock' position. The handle swings forward into the grill, and over towards the passenger tire when in freespool. It works just fine with one hand, but its not much to look at. The problem is, it will become a very tight space, once the radiator/condenser, and trans/p.steering coolers go back in. Because of this, im stopping right here. This will work, but im afraid if i try to design something more elaborate, itll be in the way later down the road. So im going to keep this for now, and once i get closer to the truck being complete, ill revisit it and see if i cant come up with a more elegant design, that doesnt interfere with anything else (i already designed, mostly built, & then rejected a 'better' design because it took up too much space).
|05-30-2019 11:57 PM|
|05-30-2019 05:03 PM|
I definitely want to switch to synthetic rope at some point.
I dont think adapting for the accordion frames would be too bad. I have a rough idea on how i could modify mine to work on a newer frame, but its difficult putting into text.
So i went over to Eastwood today, bought some epoxy primer, and their extreme chassis black. Supposed to be pretty durable, and its an aerosol so i dont have to worry about trying to brush it on the bumper, and into all the crevices. Hopefully i can start painting them in a week or two, but first i need to deal with this:
I dont want to cut the sheetmetal, so im modifying the clutch lever again. If all goes well, ill have this sorted tomorrow!
|05-30-2019 09:40 AM|
Synthetic rope saves ~20 lbs over wire, so your wire is probably around 23 lbs. My winch arrives today...I'll be using a hitch cradle for the time being, and deciding between building it into a bumper and/or adding a front hitch, so the sub-65 lb total weight with synthetic is a big selling point for moving it around!
I'm digging the look of your bumper and seriously considering tackling something like that myself, although the accordion frame horns on '92-96s are annoying to figure out what to do with. I may also revisit my old plan of a permanent rear bumper mount.
|05-29-2019 07:34 PM|
Thats pretty neat, i didnt know they made that.
Im gonna hit up Eastwood tomorrow and see what they have on hand.
Originally Posted by fodder View Post
Id call this project complete but if you look closely, youll notice the clutch lever is behind the valance
Im gonna look into it tomorrow to see if ill be modifying the lever again, or making an extension or something.
|05-29-2019 02:07 PM|
If you want to save time with the Rust Bullet, be sure to buy the Rapid Fire Coating Accelerator. Dry time is reduced from 4 hours to 30 minutes, while maintaining optimal coating performance. Rapid Fire also helps eliminate CO2 bubbling typically caused by excessive coating film application. This is a real issue, if you put it on thick instead of 3-4 thin coats, which they recommend, with sanding in between if over a 12 hour period. (see application below) It actually gasses off and leaves a bubbly, dull area, kind of like dried foam. This becomes even more of a problem after you open the can, once air is introduced, it thickens and eventually hardens in the can. So, every time you use it, it is getting thicker. The sell a an aerosol called Bloxygen which
uses ultra pure Argon, an inert gas, to drive the oxygen out of partially used containers of Rust Bullet
Coatings and preserve the paint for future use. While I'm on the subject, wear rubber gloves as you will not get this stuff off your hands; also be sure to clean the can rim and lid thoroughly, or you will never get the cover off without destroying it.
RUST BULLET® COATINGS
|05-29-2019 01:19 PM|
|reptillikus||Im already gonna be on the road tomorrow morning with the little dude, and Eastwood is only 30-40 minutes away, maybe ill swing by there and see what they have|
|05-29-2019 01:02 PM|
My suggestion to cover your unfinished bumper:
You will not be disappointed.
|05-29-2019 12:52 PM|
You don't need a spray gun or a compressor to get some GOOD paint on those bumpers.
Any DECENT auto body / paint supply store will have the ability to put automotive grade base coat in a aerosol spray can for you. It's not overly expensive either. That same place should also carry SprayMax 2K clear coat (A 2 part urethane clear in a spray can). It's more durable than any normal spray can paint. The bond is chemical and physical.
You could also check POR 15 or Rust Bullet for and Chassis black / coat for brush on options.
|05-29-2019 10:05 AM|
Yeah its heavy and awkward, but i feel like its mostly due to its size. Ill try to get a weight on it this afternoon cuz now im doubting myself
Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
Recommendations for a good brush-on paint? ive got ~3 months invested in these bumpers, might as well take the time to paint em properly too.
|This thread has more than 20 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|