|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-25-2019 04:43 PM|
|reptillikus||Ill look those up here shortly; im hoping that next week ill be hammering on the doors|
|06-25-2019 01:16 PM|
The best advice I can give you on body work, is buy some long blocks like the Dura Blocks shown below. They come in different sizes & shapes, but is the only way to get things straight IMO.
|06-25-2019 10:32 AM|
Im pretty excited, i think its gonna look awesome when done.
Since everyone likes pics:
Bumpers getting painted:
Rear all done:
the front is done, its on a cart in the garage. I need to roll it outside tomorrow, so ill snap a good pic then.
I yanked the front clip off and primed all the wheel well pieces, tomorrow (weather permitting) theyll get some chassis black on them too.
I hung and aligned the red doors to the cab; they need a little love with the hammer, but i dont think they need any rust repair at all
Theres a couple small dents in the hood, but i dont think that needs any rust repair either.
my biggest problem now, is im not a body guy so while i want it perfect, im not sure i have the skill to do it. Also, its gonna end up getting pinstriped in the woods anyway, so it really doesnt need to be perfect. So basically, its a battle against my OCD
|06-25-2019 10:21 AM|
Sounds like an F-35 stealth paint scheme.
|06-25-2019 10:13 AM|
|reptillikus||Ford Magnetic. Everything else black: door handles, all trim, flares, etc. The top is gonna be black. Planning on putting the racing stripes back on, and definitely the depth markings too. I found a PC color thats pretty close to the Ford color (we think anyway), which the 16.5s are getting coated in, hopefully in the next couple weeks. If it looks good, then later on i may re-do the 17s as well as the radius arms and some other parts.|
|06-25-2019 04:31 AM|
|06-21-2019 02:40 PM|
I thought about POR15 but like you said im pretty sure its not UV resistant and needs topcoated anyway.
Moot point, i just finished painting the bumpers this morning (Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black). Weather has kept me from making much progress on that end. We had 5 separate storms yesterday alone!
I hung the full doors from the red cab on the bronco today, they are full of small dings & dents but i think they will be easier to fix than the white doors. Disassembled the front fender wells, and removed the front clip as well. Weather permitting, monday im going to start priming/painting the liners. The inside of the fenders will be black along with the firewall so i need to finish that too. I also need to get these doors adjusted to the tub and then i guess ill start pulling dents.
|06-20-2019 06:46 PM|
I bought a PC kit not that long ago.
Did some things you can't really paint easily, like pulleys
or paint never works on, like an intake.
But I think it still chips way too easy.
I'm back to POR-15 for anything that will be abraded.
(if Rust Bullet is similar, but doesn't fade, that may be the
way to go). Yeah, it fades, but nothing else ever seems to happen to it.
Cage has been pushed up against 100 of trees and the trees
|06-14-2019 08:15 PM|
|06-14-2019 12:16 PM|
|reptillikus||Power sounds cool, except those things typically fail when you need them most I like the idea of manual in this case, its simple and reliable.|
|06-13-2019 03:37 PM|
|cobrajoe||...almost like a transfer case shifter motor|
|06-13-2019 02:54 PM|
|bnkrtstk||I would have expected you to try to rig a window motor, or power lock actuator somehow.|
|06-13-2019 10:05 AM|
|reptillikus||Just saw your reply. I dunno what im going to do. The lever actually works pretty good, and i couldnt find any cable mount that looked like would work. The problem is it rotates 180º, and has a detent at both ends. I looked into throttle levers for various bikes, but they all have a spring to return to idle, and i need something neutral that will stay where i put it. On top of that, the cable still goes to a throttle plate with a push/pull motion, and i have a rotating motion. Mounting it sideways on the winch to try to pull on the clutch lever would probably work, except for that whole 180º-of-rotation part. Im not too worried about it right now, theres a lot to do before i really have to concern myself with it.|
|06-11-2019 11:43 AM|
|bnkrtstk||Would a hand throttle kit work?|
|06-03-2019 03:00 AM|
The issue is, the lever rotates 180° from free to lock, so I'm not sure how to rig up a push/pull cable to handle that range of motion. If I could find a cable that rotates inside it's sleeve instead of sliding in/out I'd be set.
No go on the clocking; Warn told me every other position on the gear box; that puts it out the front at like 30° up (which im pretty sure is underneath the light bar anyway) or down at a weird angle, or coincidentally, straight out towards the engine.
|06-02-2019 07:06 PM|
I would think a diesel engine stop cable might work.
|06-02-2019 05:43 PM|
I just had an epiphany. Cable drive! I need to find a cable that I can pin to the clutch lever, with a knob on the other end, to rotate the clutch. Then I can mount the knob right in between the slats on the grill!
I wonder if that would have enough leverage to overcome the detents on the lever, and engage/disengage easily. Maybe something boat related? Im gonna have to do some research.....
|06-02-2019 04:50 PM|
That's a tight, tough spot to deal with but I'm confident you'll get it whipped. Good call waiting though.
I'd hate to see you get something smooth and slick and then have to muck it up due to other components in the way.
|06-02-2019 02:31 PM|
I wish i had some super awesome update but i dont.
I came up with a solution that works, but im not super thrilled with. There is a lot less space than the pics show. Also, the clutch lever is tilted back towards the motor, and the gearbox can only be clocked every other position, so theres really no 'perfect' position; each one has its own issues to deal with so i stayed with this one.
I straightened the clutch lever...
...and then made a removable extension for it
It might look like theres a ton of room in this pic, but there totally isnt. I actually had to notch the bumper, valance & grill to get this to fit.
This is the 'lock' position. The handle swings forward into the grill, and over towards the passenger tire when in freespool. It works just fine with one hand, but its not much to look at. The problem is, it will become a very tight space, once the radiator/condenser, and trans/p.steering coolers go back in. Because of this, im stopping right here. This will work, but im afraid if i try to design something more elaborate, itll be in the way later down the road. So im going to keep this for now, and once i get closer to the truck being complete, ill revisit it and see if i cant come up with a more elegant design, that doesnt interfere with anything else (i already designed, mostly built, & then rejected a 'better' design because it took up too much space).
|05-30-2019 11:57 PM|
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