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  Topic Review (Newest First)
09-19-2019 04:21 PM
slawson2000 It appears Cobalt is a good choice. See here:

https://www.grainger.com/know-how/in...t-does-the-job

Are you starting with a smaller bit, maybe 5/32" or 1/8" and working into a larger hole size for the tap? That has worked for me in the past. Better that drilling it all at one time. Also, soak with penetrating oil like PB Blaster and give it some time to soak in. Another option is using heat (torch) on the nut side.

Slow and steady. Keep at it.
09-19-2019 08:35 AM
ctandc Just as stuff starts rolling along so I can get the mechanical wrap up on this thing.... I should know better.

So I was greeted with a broken rear seat bracket bolt when stripped the '95 interior - from the previous owner. The bolt that holds the spring etc that seat rests on. Keep in mind this is no rust bucket.

I see it's not just me either:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ing-bolts.html

It was unscrewed enough to be just about flush with the square nut welded to underside of the floorpan. So getting it out that way wouldn't work. Broke several bits drilling on it. Went and grabbed the best bit I could find at a local hardware store (it was getting late). Got most of the way through the broken bolt (using cutting oil) and the bit broke. At least I got it out of the hole.

Any recommendations on drill bit brand / type etc that can be bought local? Lowe's, Home Depot, etc etc. I figure Cobalt tipped.

I already picked up new Grade 8 bolts (1/2-20 2" long) from the hardware store. I'll clean the thread / tap all the holes before assembly.
09-15-2019 07:50 PM
ctandc Got a few minutes.
Took the pressure washer to the fr

Front and rear vinyl mats. Cleaned up nice.
Get the rear mat / trim and rear seat installed hopefully tomorrow. Juggling projects is killing me LOL.




The headliner and visors from the '93 was in better shape than I thought.

Couldn't get a pic worth a damn. But it's getting there

09-11-2019 01:38 PM
ctandc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Native_Viking View Post
Most if not all of the plastic in a mid 90's Bronco is going to be ABS.
I think they make a clear ABS cement that also could be an option for certain types of repairs.

Great job on the interior refresh!
Some can differ. It just matters when it comes to using filler material for plastic welding / fixing damage. It needs to be compatible.
As for ABS cement - it pays to test it on anything you are trying to repair. It actually melts the plastic in some cases to bond it - and many times in trying to repair a break or crack it actually makes it more brittle.
09-08-2019 08:36 PM
Native_Viking
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
It pays to research what type of plastic you're dealing with before using filler material (that's why I mention using a broken interior piece).
Most if not all of the plastic in a mid 90's Bronco is going to be ABS.
I think they make a clear ABS cement that also could be an option for certain types of repairs.

Great job on the interior refresh!
09-05-2019 07:02 PM
ctandc Found it in my EVTM manual:

LB/R is instrument illumination input - that's what I want for the Autometer gauge light inputs...and apparently patching into that circuit will allow the gauge lights to dim with the headlight switch.

W/P - hot in run - exactly what I want for the gauges.

I can even use that ground. That's great actually. Saves me from adding a circuit and the only wires that will have to run down from the A-pillar (gauges) is the wire that runs to each gauge sensor.
09-04-2019 11:54 AM
ctandc So of course I'm off today and I can't find my '95 EVTM manual (Electrical diagram). I think I took it to work. Figures

Anyway - the '95 has the wiring for the factory roof console - even though it didn't have one installed and there were no holes in the headliner telling my one was installed.

Since I'm installing A pillar gauges (electric water temp and oil pressure) and I've got to run wiring anyway - and I don't plan on installing a roof console, I was thinking about using the existing wiring to run to the gauges (the roof console harness runs right up the LH A pillar where the gauges are going).

Each gauge has the following:

1. Hot for bulb
2. Ground for bulb
3. Hot for gauge
4. Ground for gauge
5. Hookup to the gauge's sensor

This is the harness I'm talking about:



From digging around - it seems this harness will have the following:

1. Hot wire in run ( perfect for the gauges)
2. Ground
3. Instrument Illumination Input - go power when lights are turned on.

I'll look around for my manual - just wondering if anyone has the pinout diagram for this harness on a '95 EB.

Any potential problems using this existing circuit for only the gauges?
09-02-2019 06:06 PM
ctandc Decided to go ahead and install the Kilmat (not Killzmat as I've been calling it apparently) in the rear bed area. Talked to a buddy of mine. He has it in a CJ-7 and he rarely keeps a top installed on his Jeep. It gets rained on all the time. Vinyl mat on top of it and it's held up fine for over a year with zero issues. Said his brother has the same type stuff in his Scout II with zero issues.

Stuff is really reasonable price. I paid like $60 for a box of it (amazon) 36 square feet. Comes in squares, easy to work with and cut with good scissors.

09-02-2019 02:36 PM
ctandc Got the passenger door inner liner made / installed. New panel installed.

09-02-2019 09:19 AM
ctandc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
Thanks CJ. Missed that in the top line. Appreciate the explanation and mini how-to.

Subconsciously I was hoping the OP had a plastic welder. Have waffled looking at hot air units in the past and was hoping to see one in action.


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Before you pay for a plastic welder - buy a cheap soldering iron, and use cheap tie wraps as filler material (or pieces of broken interior components).

I started using the soldering iron on sport bike fairings. Aftermarket fairings were almost always cheap, but also flimsy and simply didn't fit as well as OEM stuff. I painted several different bikes by buying (or getting for free) damaged OEM Fairings that fit my bike and working on them while I was still riding my own bike.

It pays to research what type of plastic you're dealing with before using filler material (that's why I mention using a broken interior piece).

It's literally just using the soldering iron to melt the plastic on both sides of a crack, and manipulating the soldering iron (quick motions) results in a repair just as strong as before the crack.

If doing finish work on the exterior - use a QUALITY filler designed for plastic.
09-02-2019 09:00 AM
Want2BS8ed Thanks CJ. Missed that in the top line. Appreciate the explanation and mini how-to.

Subconsciously I was hoping the OP had a plastic welder. Have waffled looking at hot air units in the past and was hoping to see one in action.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
09-02-2019 07:19 AM
cobrajoe I believe he is using a soldering gun. As he said earlier, back in the day when dirt bike plastics were expensive, the common practice was to weld them together with a soldering gun. If you had a really high wattage gun, this was easy; you could have someone press the two pieces together and you could literally weld it back together by pushing the gun in and out (back & forth) over the crack. If you did both sides, it worked really well. A little hot glue over the weld on the underside added extra strength.
09-01-2019 08:22 PM
Want2BS8ed ctandc, are you using a soldering iron or an actual plastic welder to repair your panels?
09-01-2019 07:33 PM
ctandc Got the rear panels squared away and installed. Public service announcement - there is enough variance among the rear panels on Bronco's that you might have to drill some new holes to make everything line up as it should.





Wrapped up the driver's door panel, installed the new retainer studs - put some plastic weather wrap and a bit of killzmat on the door then mounted the door panel





Tomorrow going to get the RH panel installed, get the replacement headliner installed then finalize the Autometer gauge pod A pillar mount install.

I still haven't decided if I'm going to install any Killzmat on the rear bed of the '95. Odds are it's going to be driven a lot of the time with the top off. Wondering how that stuff would act if it got wet - since the OEM rear vinyl mat would be on top.
08-31-2019 03:59 PM
ctandc Got the repairs done using the soldering iron.







Lined the rear of the panel with peel and seal.........



Killzmat for inside of the rear 1/4's. This made a huge difference just rapping on the metal - it seemed to deaden a lot of the sound.





This roller is worth it - made it really lay down smooth and tight







And installed. I'll take it for a driver.

08-31-2019 03:50 PM
Want2BS8ed
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
Those plugs are likely dry rotted from the sun. Use a trim tool if you want to try to save them - or a small flathead will pop 'em out.

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells spares. Plugs on my '93 were shot...


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08-31-2019 01:41 PM
ctandc Started pulling the '93 EB rear panels. Here's what the OEM setup looks like. I honestly think this top has never been removed.



Those plugs are likely dry rotted from the sun. Use a trim tool if you want to try to save them - or a small flathead will pop 'em out.



Removal is straight forward. All the screws holding the panel are short screws except for the two in the rear at the tailgate, and the screw that holds the B pillar trim.

It's out but damn it's nasty. And according to the two beer cans (tops weren't popped) that I found inside the armrest compartment - that are now empty - the insulation behind the panel got soaked YEARS ago and nasty. Out it all came. I'll use some of sound insulation I got on the rear of the panels.





Soaked it down in LA Awesome - it's $1 at the Dollar Store. Not toxic or nasty. Works great. And it's a dollar. Then hosed it off.





I'll plastic weld spots on the rear cargo pocket so it doesn't flop around.



Hosed it off, wiped it down, it with panel prep then some color - to see if it blends. I've only got most of 1 can left. Local guy had one - it's gone now. Hoping to just hit the panel with a quick coat. Would suck to have to wait on more SEM color coat.

It's really hard for me to tell where I did and didn't spray. I coated pretty much the whole panel, thicker coat on spots that had run marks / stains.





08-30-2019 08:31 PM
ctandc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
Man... those panels are looking awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. Dyeing plastic / vinyl panels is easy. The trick is to use a good dye, and clean the CRAP out of the panels, finishing up with Prep All or another grease / wax remover. I've changed interior colors on tons of project vehicles over the years. Much cheaper than paying $300 or more for new panels that often don't fit as good as OEM.
08-30-2019 08:28 PM
ctandc So back at it for a bit. The glue / clamp routine worked great on the inner weather strip. So I figured I'd finish up that door panel, getting it ready to install. So when trying to find nice door panels - apparently I didn't pay attention to the back side mounting 'lugs' which space the panel out from the door. I'm guessing people using the wrong screws, over tightening etc - caused the spacers / lugs on this panel to break.

So I used the dremel and cut off lugs from a trashed panel I had on hand. Then I simply used my old soldering iron to plastic weld the lugs onto the panel for stability when installed. I've used this technique for YEARS and it works better than anything else I've tried. Did it for motorcycle fairing repairs and it held up great for years.



Fitting the first lug. Doesn't have to be perfect, just stable enough to hold up.





Here's the soldered in lug. Just use the side of the iron to quickly melt the plastics together.



I then installed the metal trim pieces at the top of the door panel. They are thin metal with a vinyl like coating (wood grain / black etc) and mine were all screwed up. Painted it with SEM trim black then coated that with black vinyl dye. They are held in my metal 'tangs' that you can bend outward from the backside to remove them. They are a PAIN to reinstall correctly. You have to bend the metal tangs after 'snapping' the trim down into the slots



Also installed the armrest. It's held on from the rear with screws.



Then onto the next panel to install the new inner weather strip. It had one broken hole for the strip clips.



Got it in place, used a bit of glue - got it where I wanted it and clamped it lightly in place with some needle nose vice grips



So while that was setting up, I decided to uninstall the old, trashed headliner. I'm going to swap in the mint headliner from the '93. None of the Bronco's I have were equipped with the roof console - but apparently the wiring and mount is present in the '95



Tomorrow I hope to get the door panels finished and installed, get the A pillar installed, and hopefully get the rear interior from the '93 removed and swapped in.
08-30-2019 04:44 PM
Want2BS8ed Man... those panels are looking awesome.


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