|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-07-2019 02:05 PM|
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
|06-07-2019 01:07 PM|
Just leaves more shop time!
|06-07-2019 11:10 AM|
Scored a front console from a '07 F150 today. $50 in mint shape from a local salvage yard. Haven't had time to touch the Bronco lately - working on applying limewash to our brick house. Hope to be done with that this weekend if the weather holds.
For those interested - limewash is simply powdered hydrated lime mixed with salt and water. It protects the brick and it's a TON cheaper than paint. It's what people used to apply to brick houses before paint became so much cheaper / common to acquire. Enough to do my entire 2000 sq/ft house cost me about $80 with some leftover.
Going to get the '95 inside the shop and start work on the wiring / interior. Get the tailgate wiring / switches squared away, install the power mirrors from the '93, strip the interior and install sound deadener under the vinyl mat, replace / repair / dye all the interior panels, dash panel and install stereo, speakers, console etc.
Likely I'll pull the top while I'm doing all this to make it easier.
Then after that, it's tear the top half off the engine, water pump, hoses, thermostat, gauges, headers etc.
|06-01-2019 03:05 PM|
Got the cushion replaced in the driver's side seat last night. Apparently someone had tried to fix it before with tape. And not to mention it had a broken spring in the base. Robbed one from the donor seat. Difference is ridiculous.
And I found the PERFECT match for the Bronco tan interior trim. Went by an auto body paint supply store I've dealt with for years. They mix SEM stuff. He recommended to check that SEM stuff they had on the shelf first.
So my GF immediately picked out this color by the cap:
SEM color coat medium neutral
Bought one can. Took it to the parking lot to spray on the spare seat trim (broken tab) to see if it matched. After letting it dry you literally can't tell where I sprayed. Bought the other cans of it they had on the shelf.
Which is ironic. Since one of the threads I found when searching here contained a post from someone saying Medium Neutral was a perfect match - but then someone posted the SEM color chart picture and it looked GREY - and the person who said it matched never posted again:
Here's the the thread:
|05-31-2019 10:20 AM|
Okay so after some digging I found some pictures and other things that I'll leave here to help me document getting this repaired.
Here's a picture (courtesy of Steve83 ) of the later model tailgate wiring harness:
Once I get the '95 back in the shop, I'll verify what I got - but at this point I would feel better about taking the pieces of two harnesses I have and wiring up a new one.
The rear defrost consists of two connections. One wire is the ground, one wire is the hot. They both apparently connect to the window.
The ground connects to a tab glued to the silver connection on the glass connected to the defroster grid. Looking at the tailgate with it down - it's on the RH (passenger side) a short distance to the left is the hot for the defrost - which connects to the same type of tab.
So two of these are used:
Again, one for ground (grounds to inside LH tail light housing) and one for hot.
You can also buy new connectors from Frost Fighter as well and they even make a special epoxy to reconnect the tabs to the silver insets on the glass that connects to the defroster grid. But that epoxy is like $40. The connectors (which are just female spade connectors with a clip on plastic housing) are like $6 + shipping.
Me personally, I think I'm going to salvage two tabs from the '93 and '95 rear glass as needed and solder it back on the window. Won't cost me a dime. Then I'll crimp and solder on new spade connectors (again FREE) and then use heat shrink around it.
I'll take pictures when I get the '95 inside the shop and start building the harness.
|05-31-2019 08:37 AM|
For anyone who can't get the tailgate window down, the first option is to remove the access panel, unplug the window motor connection, get a battery and two pieces of wire and simply try to get it down by directly powering the motor. If that STILL doesn't work - like in my case where the tailgate window on the '93 LITERALLY has not been down or open since 2003 (at least), then odds are - if the motor tries to work - the rollers / guides the connect the regulator to the window track are likely frozen.
Like this - All I did was Try to move the guide (still attached to the regulator) after I got the window out.
In that case - grab a wrench (12mm or 7/16" can't remember at the moment) and reach up inside the access panel and take off the two nuts on either side of the window track that hold the glass to the regulator. Bumping the power to the motor at this point will jar it enough to allow you to move the regulator arms off the studs on the guides and get the window free of the mechanism and allow you to lower it manually.
First time in over 15 years this tailgate has been lowered:
So all that work to get to the tailgate harness in the '93 - since it has rear defrost and so does the '95.....and someone has already "modified" the harness. In reality - it was unplugged underneath the truck and it appears someone just ran a wire to the battery at some point to power the tailgate. I guess. It was closed off with a wire nut. God I love previous owners.
The safety switch on the LH side of the tailgate is GONE. They jumpered the wiring harness to bypass this (they were good enough to crimp this connection). I got the entire harness out of the tailgate - only to find out they apparently just REMOVED the rear defrost wire from the harness. It and the rear defrost harness is GONE. On the plus side the tailgate switch seems like it's in good shape.
On the plus side - the tailgate isn't rotted. It's got some scale surface on one inside corner but ZERO rot. So at least it's consistent with the rest of the truck. I honestly believe the top has NEVER been off the '93. All the trim and trim screw hole plugs are intact and not broken.
At this point I need to search the tailgate tech stuff and figure out how to remove the tailgate key switch. It looks like I have to remove the exterior trim panel to remove the key cylinder itself - I'll try that and see what happens I'm going to rob the key cylinder from the '96 because I have a key for it and it worked before. At this point it looks like I'm going to build an entire new harness using the plugs and seals from the '93 to install in the '95. I just have to find where the rear defrost ground actually bolts up - inside the tailgate itself or inside the tail light housing. That wire was cut on the '95 as well.
I want to get the tailgate working from both switches, lubed up and working well, so I can button up the dash on the '95 and install the new instrument cluster I scored + the mint trim bezel I got from the same parts truck.
I'm off to search threads - but does anyone know if power side mirrors (the '93 has them in good shape - the '95 does not have power mirrors) harness plug up is present in a Bronco that didn't have them?
|05-30-2019 09:22 AM|
So after tearing through the tailgate tech section on Supermotors from Steve83 (I'd already saved all that to my computer) and searching through a bunch of threads here....
It likely seems the regulator OR the roller / guides allow the tailgate window to move are likely frozen. It's not a stretch. It's literally been 15-16 years since that window has been down on the '93 - it was stored in a heated / cooled bard for 15 years before I got it.
I think at this point I'll just climb back in there and remove the (4) nuts holding the window to the regulator / bracket then manually lower the window down to the bottom of the tailgate so I can get the tailgate down. Then I'll go from there and see if I can get the regulator moving. I want to to keep the '93 weather tight - all I really want is the apparently untouched tailgate wiring harness with rear defog to install in the '95.
I'll try to get at it tonight and see what's going on and update here.
|05-29-2019 10:09 PM|
Well I crawled in the back of the '96 XL. Scored a few tools, and a shotgun shell carrier.
The tailgate access panel in the '96 looks like it's never been disturbed. That's good.
Realizing the '96 XL doesn't have rear defrost - the '95 does.
Did set up a quick rig that lets me get the tailgate window up and down without crawling in the truck. Like a sauna in there. New weight loss program.
So then I crawled in the back of the '93 EB...with rear defrost. Rear window hasn't been down in 15 years. The motor works. After a ton of pb blaster etc - it went from barely moving to moving a few inches. It seems like one side of the regulator is frozen. I'll search threads and see what I can find.
Here's the passenger seat cushion from the '93:
And cut outs on both sides of the cushion:
It will be a direct replacement for the worn driver's cushion in the '95.
And I've been trying to find a vinyl dye that matches the tan / mocha in the '95.
Desert Sand Duplicolor is too light as I suspected.
Colorbond Ford Medium Prairie Tan is still too light.
Trying the SEM LT Buckskin next.
|05-29-2019 08:23 AM|
Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
Apparently a previous owner replaced the tailgate window motor. But it looks like they hacked up the wiring harness as well. I spent more time than I care to admit fighting the bent up rear bumper on the '96 (bumper was bent up enough tailgate wouldn't open all the way) so I could get the tailgate down. And after all that, I forgot I robbed the solenoid off the '96 to test something on the '95 and can't find it. Last time I messed with the '96 XL - the tailgate window worked with both switches. I'll crawl in there after work today and open the access panel and power the motor directly. Plan is to use the entire tailgate harness from the '96 and install it into the '95.
|05-29-2019 08:18 AM|
Originally Posted by CDA 455 View Post
|05-28-2019 06:13 PM|
|05-28-2019 12:58 PM|
Which means one has to have cruise control in order to have said switch recall done, correct?
|05-28-2019 12:09 PM|
|05-28-2019 10:32 AM|
Yesterday I was juggling several different projects so I decided to take the seat cushion out of the donor passenger seat I pulled from the '93 EB. The cushion in the driver's seat on the '95 is shot. I figured the cushions would be identical between both seats and they are. Took me a few minutes how to take apart the '93 seat but got the cushion out.
Then I got sidetracked and started messing with the tailgate glass on the '95. When I bought the truck someone had hot wired the tailgate window motor straight to a long spool of wire that runs to the interior so you can connect it to a power source and raise / lower it. That part works. In fact the tailgate motor itself looks like it's definitely been replaced.
Replaced the dash switch with a known good switch and reconnected the Y/RD, RD/Y wires to the tailgate window motor. Nothing. Wiring coming out of the tailgate into the LH tail light looks fine - no readily visible cuts or abrasions. Plan is to do pull it back in the shop after work and start tearing into it.
Figure it's best at this point to pull the connector on the frame and clean and make sure no obvious wiring issues then start testing what I've got at the dash switch.
|05-27-2019 11:11 AM|
I need to track down the ATF leak. It's pretty bad. Need to figure out where exactly it's coming from. I'm going to clean off the transmission / transfer case and check the tightness of the transfer case to transmission bolts, as well as the transmission pan bolts.
I'm also going to go another round with the power brake bleeder as well.
I still can't get over how good this thing drives now and I haven't even reinstalled the front swaybar with new endlinks or installed the rear sway bar endlinks (which are totally shot).
|05-26-2019 01:44 PM|
Went back out today to the shop. Got the Pitman arm nut torqued. Went to bleed the Power steering system. Decided to try something I'd seen on a thread here or another forum...
Pulled the coil wire. Filled the P/S pump, cranked the key while moving the wheels lock to lock (Front wheels off the ground). Added fluid until it held steady.
Test drive went well. Truck drive so much better it's ridiculous. It needs an alignment of course and the steering wheel is off center a bit..........but all the work was worth it. It's crazy how good it drives.
|05-24-2019 11:32 PM|
So had a bit to work on the 95 today.
Picked up a pitman arm puller and got the old drop pitman arm off the old steering box.
Then ran into the same problem when loosely installing it on the steering box - the drag link (still connected to LH inner tie rod) still wouldn't bolt up. So I removed the LH inner tie rod from the drag link.
Decided to go ahead and try to install the Skyjacker extreme drop pitman arm. It went on - key way matched up, drag link bolted up with no adjustment - but I did have to screw the LH inner tie rod IN about 5-6 turns and it bolted right up to the drag link.
Keep in mind - started all this work with the truck on the ground - tires pointed straight ahead, steering wheel centered / locked and secured with the seat belt. Steering shaft matched right up with the flat on the new steering box. Steering box was centered.
Need to torque everything - may try to take a quick road test tomorrow but I have other stuff I have to do - so it might be Sunday.
I'll get it aligned this week.
Also - this is as far as I could get the new pitarm on. Keep in mind - new steering box as well. I'll try to use the impact to see if I can get it to go on further. Had my 3/4" torque wrench set to 200 and I couldn't get it to click to torque.
|05-23-2019 01:36 PM|
"Most of mine is heavily wooded. That's one of the reasons we bought this place. Of course the detached 2+ car garage (For parking) and the detached 2+ car shop with it's own power didn't hurt either.[/QUOTE]
I bought my house before I got married. Main reason I got the house I did was 30 by 40 shop with 3 phase. My wife complains that the shop is almost bigger then the house but I was a first time home buyer with a Bronco addiction. Now I just need to get a Mill and Lathe to use that 3 phase
|05-23-2019 01:36 PM|
Awesome tech and how-to pics/descript.
I'm replacing worn out stuff so this thread will come in real handy.
|05-23-2019 01:33 PM|
|ctandc||I ended up with the JBA headers and the Jegs off road y pipe. With the difference in price for Bassani headers + y pipe, I'll pay my exhaust guy to run a custom exhaust after the y pipe and have some cash left over.|
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