|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 12:44 PM|
Finally some time back on the Bronco -been CRAZY lately.
Got the rear interior wrapped up. I gave up on that previously broken rear seat bolt. I had it drilled out, but the shell of the original bolt WOULD NOT give up the ghost. So I said "screw it" and proceeded to tap the hole I drilled for smaller bolt. And the tap broke. Yup moving on.
Rear mat back in, seat belts and seat brackets in with new bolts. Got the front headliner pretty much done.
So the kid was in town from school (gonna be his truck) and we finally had some time to tackle the NASTY transfer case / transmission leak. Flash back...
Before I pulled it into the shop, pulled the fill plug from the transfer case and fluid came running out. NASTY fluid. Not even close to red (ATF). I really think someone actually used gear oil in this thing. Regardless, I bought the transfer case seal and the gasket for the adapter.
Keep in mind - this thing leaked ATF the entire time it has been parked - until it couldn't really leak anymore. So before we dropped the tcase, we drained the garbage that was in there (NO TRACE Of red so I really don't think the inner seal is bad and it doesn't look bad at all). Then I pumped a gallon of fresh (cheap) correct ATF in the fill hole with the drain hole out. Yeah that was nasty. But kept it up until it ran clear and red.
Then we dropped the case.
I think I know where the problem is. I'm going to ASSUME that the fluid coming out that "weep hole" inside of the adapter is normal. And I'm going to ASSUME that because the jokers who installed this never even cleaned off the adapter flange OR the tcase flange and didn't put a gasket OR any kind of sealer on it - that would be the source of my leak.
Come on REALLY? How hard is it???
I have the seal on hand - but the existing seal looks fine. I'm thinking it was just FREELY leaking out of the connection between the adapter and the tcase. What say you all?
Get that cleaned / sealed up (gasket on hand and some good RTV) then onto draining the transmission, new filter and gasket and rerouting the trans cooler lines (likely routed by the same dufus who installed the transfer case). Then onto the remainder of the under hood work.
|09-22-2019 02:28 PM|
I'm about to throw in the towel. This bolt was broken when I tore the interior apart - so it wasn't affecting anything.
Started with a small bit, drilled all the way through the bolt. Routinely soaking it, heating it, working my way up on drill bit size. There is just a thin part of the original bolt is left. And then I broke off a bit inside the hole.
|09-19-2019 04:21 PM|
It appears Cobalt is a good choice. See here:
Are you starting with a smaller bit, maybe 5/32" or 1/8" and working into a larger hole size for the tap? That has worked for me in the past. Better that drilling it all at one time. Also, soak with penetrating oil like PB Blaster and give it some time to soak in. Another option is using heat (torch) on the nut side.
Slow and steady. Keep at it.
|09-19-2019 08:35 AM|
Just as stuff starts rolling along so I can get the mechanical wrap up on this thing.... I should know better.
So I was greeted with a broken rear seat bracket bolt when stripped the '95 interior - from the previous owner. The bolt that holds the spring etc that seat rests on. Keep in mind this is no rust bucket.
I see it's not just me either:
It was unscrewed enough to be just about flush with the square nut welded to underside of the floorpan. So getting it out that way wouldn't work. Broke several bits drilling on it. Went and grabbed the best bit I could find at a local hardware store (it was getting late). Got most of the way through the broken bolt (using cutting oil) and the bit broke. At least I got it out of the hole.
Any recommendations on drill bit brand / type etc that can be bought local? Lowe's, Home Depot, etc etc. I figure Cobalt tipped.
I already picked up new Grade 8 bolts (1/2-20 2" long) from the hardware store. I'll clean the thread / tap all the holes before assembly.
|09-15-2019 07:50 PM|
Got a few minutes.
Took the pressure washer to the fr
Front and rear vinyl mats. Cleaned up nice.
Get the rear mat / trim and rear seat installed hopefully tomorrow. Juggling projects is killing me LOL.
The headliner and visors from the '93 was in better shape than I thought.
Couldn't get a pic worth a damn. But it's getting there
|09-11-2019 01:38 PM|
Originally Posted by Native_Viking View Post
As for ABS cement - it pays to test it on anything you are trying to repair. It actually melts the plastic in some cases to bond it - and many times in trying to repair a break or crack it actually makes it more brittle.
|09-08-2019 08:36 PM|
Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
I think they make a clear ABS cement that also could be an option for certain types of repairs.
Great job on the interior refresh!
|09-05-2019 07:02 PM|
Found it in my EVTM manual:
LB/R is instrument illumination input - that's what I want for the Autometer gauge light inputs...and apparently patching into that circuit will allow the gauge lights to dim with the headlight switch.
W/P - hot in run - exactly what I want for the gauges.
I can even use that ground. That's great actually. Saves me from adding a circuit and the only wires that will have to run down from the A-pillar (gauges) is the wire that runs to each gauge sensor.
|09-04-2019 11:54 AM|
So of course I'm off today and I can't find my '95 EVTM manual (Electrical diagram). I think I took it to work. Figures
Anyway - the '95 has the wiring for the factory roof console - even though it didn't have one installed and there were no holes in the headliner telling my one was installed.
Since I'm installing A pillar gauges (electric water temp and oil pressure) and I've got to run wiring anyway - and I don't plan on installing a roof console, I was thinking about using the existing wiring to run to the gauges (the roof console harness runs right up the LH A pillar where the gauges are going).
Each gauge has the following:
1. Hot for bulb
2. Ground for bulb
3. Hot for gauge
4. Ground for gauge
5. Hookup to the gauge's sensor
This is the harness I'm talking about:
From digging around - it seems this harness will have the following:
1. Hot wire in run ( perfect for the gauges)
3. Instrument Illumination Input - go power when lights are turned on.
I'll look around for my manual - just wondering if anyone has the pinout diagram for this harness on a '95 EB.
Any potential problems using this existing circuit for only the gauges?
|09-02-2019 06:06 PM|
Decided to go ahead and install the Kilmat (not Killzmat as I've been calling it apparently) in the rear bed area. Talked to a buddy of mine. He has it in a CJ-7 and he rarely keeps a top installed on his Jeep. It gets rained on all the time. Vinyl mat on top of it and it's held up fine for over a year with zero issues. Said his brother has the same type stuff in his Scout II with zero issues.
Stuff is really reasonable price. I paid like $60 for a box of it (amazon) 36 square feet. Comes in squares, easy to work with and cut with good scissors.
|09-02-2019 02:36 PM|
Got the passenger door inner liner made / installed. New panel installed.
|09-02-2019 09:19 AM|
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
I started using the soldering iron on sport bike fairings. Aftermarket fairings were almost always cheap, but also flimsy and simply didn't fit as well as OEM stuff. I painted several different bikes by buying (or getting for free) damaged OEM Fairings that fit my bike and working on them while I was still riding my own bike.
It pays to research what type of plastic you're dealing with before using filler material (that's why I mention using a broken interior piece).
It's literally just using the soldering iron to melt the plastic on both sides of a crack, and manipulating the soldering iron (quick motions) results in a repair just as strong as before the crack.
If doing finish work on the exterior - use a QUALITY filler designed for plastic.
|09-02-2019 09:00 AM|
Thanks CJ. Missed that in the top line. Appreciate the explanation and mini how-to.
Subconsciously I was hoping the OP had a plastic welder. Have waffled looking at hot air units in the past and was hoping to see one in action.
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|09-02-2019 07:19 AM|
|cobrajoe||I believe he is using a soldering gun. As he said earlier, back in the day when dirt bike plastics were expensive, the common practice was to weld them together with a soldering gun. If you had a really high wattage gun, this was easy; you could have someone press the two pieces together and you could literally weld it back together by pushing the gun in and out (back & forth) over the crack. If you did both sides, it worked really well. A little hot glue over the weld on the underside added extra strength.|
|09-01-2019 08:22 PM|
|Want2BS8ed||ctandc, are you using a soldering iron or an actual plastic welder to repair your panels?|
|09-01-2019 07:33 PM|
Got the rear panels squared away and installed. Public service announcement - there is enough variance among the rear panels on Bronco's that you might have to drill some new holes to make everything line up as it should.
Wrapped up the driver's door panel, installed the new retainer studs - put some plastic weather wrap and a bit of killzmat on the door then mounted the door panel
Tomorrow going to get the RH panel installed, get the replacement headliner installed then finalize the Autometer gauge pod A pillar mount install.
I still haven't decided if I'm going to install any Killzmat on the rear bed of the '95. Odds are it's going to be driven a lot of the time with the top off. Wondering how that stuff would act if it got wet - since the OEM rear vinyl mat would be on top.
|08-31-2019 03:59 PM|
Got the repairs done using the soldering iron.
Lined the rear of the panel with peel and seal.........
Killzmat for inside of the rear 1/4's. This made a huge difference just rapping on the metal - it seemed to deaden a lot of the sound.
This roller is worth it - made it really lay down smooth and tight
And installed. I'll take it for a driver.
|08-31-2019 03:50 PM|
Originally Posted by ctandc View Post
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard sells spares. Plugs on my '93 were shot...
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|08-31-2019 01:41 PM|
Started pulling the '93 EB rear panels. Here's what the OEM setup looks like. I honestly think this top has never been removed.
Those plugs are likely dry rotted from the sun. Use a trim tool if you want to try to save them - or a small flathead will pop 'em out.
Removal is straight forward. All the screws holding the panel are short screws except for the two in the rear at the tailgate, and the screw that holds the B pillar trim.
It's out but damn it's nasty. And according to the two beer cans (tops weren't popped) that I found inside the armrest compartment - that are now empty - the insulation behind the panel got soaked YEARS ago and nasty. Out it all came. I'll use some of sound insulation I got on the rear of the panels.
Soaked it down in LA Awesome - it's $1 at the Dollar Store. Not toxic or nasty. Works great. And it's a dollar. Then hosed it off.
I'll plastic weld spots on the rear cargo pocket so it doesn't flop around.
Hosed it off, wiped it down, it with panel prep then some color - to see if it blends. I've only got most of 1 can left. Local guy had one - it's gone now. Hoping to just hit the panel with a quick coat. Would suck to have to wait on more SEM color coat.
It's really hard for me to tell where I did and didn't spray. I coated pretty much the whole panel, thicker coat on spots that had run marks / stains.
|08-30-2019 08:31 PM|
Originally Posted by Want2BS8ed View Post
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