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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-20-2019 09:36 PM
El Kabong Yeah, someone should make a steel version to replace that pot metal junk. I'd bet many of us who have been thru the replacement hassle would jump on a better version.
05-20-2019 03:24 PM
end user The actuator level was broken, what a piece of shit part, who designed this? This is the second time I had to replace it.
04-14-2019 08:48 PM
end user Ok figure it out. I'm guessing actuator is bent. I didn't think of it as I replaced it a few years ago and couldn't imagine it bending or breaking so fast.Well it moves the rod but I guess the piece the rod sits in must have bent.

What I had to do it take the ignition switch off the column put the key to run and then use a screw driver to push the slider on the ignition switch all the way and the truck started :)

Now the fun part of taking apart the column once again.
04-14-2019 07:24 PM
end user Ok well I installed a new ignition switch on the column, made sure it actuator went in all the way but no ****ing go. So not sure wtf can be the issue? Are there are electronics that require the NSS to have a signal before power is sent to the S wire from the ignition switch?

Also is the tumbler suppose to spring back a bit after letting go of the key when the truck starts? LOL don't ever remember how its suppose to act.

For now I need to get the push button going as I'm gonna need the truck here and there in the next two weeks. Which hot on key wire can I use for the push button to the S terminal?
03-24-2019 06:08 PM
end user Ok so I ran a code reader just in case and I got code 67 O which says Neutral Pressure Switch circuit failure , circuit open (3.0L MAP, 3,0L MAF-SFI, 3.8L SFI)

Now I don't have an AOD in it anymore and have a C6 and I'm using a B&M Mega shifter with its own NSS. Not sure if this code has always been there since the swap since I only just checked it. Either way it wont start in N or in Park so I'm guessing its the Ignition Switch module thing on the column?
03-24-2019 01:35 PM
end user
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Kabong View Post
I think he got the sticking/screaming starter thing solved in the post quoted below. If I read this thread correctly, his original problem was that it wouldn't crank. He then bypassed the NSS, but got the wires crossed up & had power from the reverse lights circuit feeding the solenoid which caused the starter to run on. He undid the crossed up NSS jumper, & now is back to a no crank issue. He has no voltage on the "S" wire to the solenoid, so is wanting the pushbutton to start the truck until he has a chance to track down the actual cause.
Yes exactly. Now what's my best power source for the push button? I'm guessing a positive wire that is only energized when the key is in the run position connected to a push button and the wire continues to the S post on the starter replay?
03-03-2019 09:48 PM
El Kabong
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggum View Post
You may find it does the same thing with a push bottom. Whack the solenoid when itís sticking first. If the starter disengages when you do, youíll know itís not ignition related.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I think he got the sticking/screaming starter thing solved in the post quoted below. If I read this thread correctly, his original problem was that it wouldn't crank. He then bypassed the NSS, but got the wires crossed up & had power from the reverse lights circuit feeding the solenoid which caused the starter to run on. He undid the crossed up NSS jumper, & now is back to a no crank issue. He has no voltage on the "S" wire to the solenoid, so is wanting the pushbutton to start the truck until he has a chance to track down the actual cause.

Quote:
Originally Posted by end user View Post
Yah had the wrong ones jumped. So figured out which is what and top switch is reverse and bottom nss. Just put the truck in reverse and watched which wires turned off the reverse lights. Now I jumped the proper ones and no go on engine start. So would I be looking at the relay on the fender or the fuse for the relay?
03-03-2019 09:04 PM
biggum You may find it does the same thing with a push bottom. Whack the solenoid when itís sticking first. If the starter disengages when you do, youíll know itís not ignition related.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
03-03-2019 07:37 PM
end user
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Kabong View Post
Yeah, a push button should buy you some time. But you should still hunt down the real problem as soon as you get a chance.

The actual ignition switch is behind the dash, on top of the column. It is operated by a rod, that is moved by the ignition actuator, which is driven by a toothed gear, that is turned by the cylinder. If any of that goes bad it can cause the actual switch to not move far enough to reach the "start" position. If that is happening the most likely culprit is the pot metal ignition actuator, which is prone to fail as these trucks get older.

Sometimes you can buy more time by adjusting the switch on top of the column. On my 90 I first adjusted the switch, then replaced the switch, but finally had to replace the actuator to really fix it. IIrc that actuator also unlocks the shifter & steering, so it is likely that the pushbutton bypass is only a temporary fix.

Sixlitre gives a quick test/bypass if the actuator is starting to fail here:


If you determine that the actuator is failing, here is a good thread with more info added in throughout. I followed these instructions to replace it on my 90, but didn't have to drop the column as described.
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...85-w-tilt.html The pics appear to be gone, but you can find them here:
Steering_Column Click on any pic for a larger version.

Thanks,was about to get a pair on needle nose pliers and move the rod lo see if it was bent. Yah want to fix if properly but I only get 1 day off per week and leave my house at 8:30am and don't come back till 8PM so no desire to do any work on the truck in the cold and at night especially when I get home from work so late.
03-03-2019 07:31 PM
El Kabong
Quote:
Originally Posted by biggum View Post
Yes, the s wire comes from the ignition.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
...and takes a side trip thru the NSS on the way to the solenoid.
03-03-2019 07:29 PM
biggum Yes, the s wire comes from the ignition.


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03-03-2019 07:29 PM
biggum The next time it sticks engaged, whack the solenoid with a wrench or something and I bet it stops.

On mine the solenoid was getting stuck, welding together. I tried multiple solenoids, rebuilding ignition switch etc with no luck.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
03-03-2019 07:22 PM
El Kabong Yeah, a push button should buy you some time. But you should still hunt down the real problem as soon as you get a chance.

The actual ignition switch is behind the dash, on top of the column. It is operated by a rod, that is moved by the ignition actuator, which is driven by a toothed gear, that is turned by the cylinder. If any of that goes bad it can cause the actual switch to not move far enough to reach the "start" position. If that is happening the most likely culprit is the pot metal ignition actuator, which is prone to fail as these trucks get older.

Sometimes you can buy more time by adjusting the switch on top of the column. On my 90 I first adjusted the switch, then replaced the switch, but finally had to replace the actuator to really fix it. IIrc that actuator also unlocks the shifter & steering, so it is likely that the pushbutton bypass is only a temporary fix.

Sixlitre gives a quick test/bypass if the actuator is starting to fail here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixlitre View Post
Reach down lower on the column and find a steel rod running down the column. Using a pick tool or bent needle nose pliers, grab the steel rod and pull down on it with yo' left hand (while you have the key turned all the way on, with yo' right hand).

Bet you get a vrooom noise then !

Sixlitre
If you determine that the actuator is failing, here is a good thread with more info added in throughout. I followed these instructions to replace it on my 90, but didn't have to drop the column as described.
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...85-w-tilt.html The pics appear to be gone, but you can find them here:
Steering_Column Click on any pic for a larger version.
03-03-2019 05:28 PM
end user
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Kabong View Post
Since the relay on the fender (solenoid in the circle I grew up in) worked when the wrong wires were connected, it sounds like the problem is somewhere else.

Does an 88 have a 3 post solenoid? I think so. If so disconnect the little wire to the solenoid, & have a helper turn the key to start while you check for voltage on the little wire. Try it in both park & neutral, & then with the nss bypassed.

If you don't get power to the little solenoid wire under any of those methods, then check for power to the nss with the key turned to start. No power there? Then it might be a bad or misadjusted ignition switch. Or an ignition actuator that is starting to fail & not move the switch fully to the start position. Do some of that testing & let us know what you find.
Ok just for the hell of it I got a new relay but no go with everything connected back. I can jump the replay from positive from battery to S terminal and truck starts but I don't see any voltage coming to the S wire. I don't have time to trouble shoot wiring for now so can I just install a push button for now?

So where is the S wire coming from at the ignition? Could a bad ignition key tumbler cause this?
02-19-2019 01:39 AM
gaxlt Every time I had a starter problem it made a horrible, horrible noise or wouldn't work at all.
Did you check your exhaust.
02-18-2019 07:48 AM
biggum
Nasty noise from engine

@end user

Donít run it like this youíll chew up your flex plate.

I had a similar issue on my 86. Randomly when starting the starter would stay engaged even with the key out if start with engine running or key fully off.

I tried about five different solenoids and a couple new starters and rebuilt my key switch, actuator, and replaced the ignition switch at the bottom of the column.

Replaced all battery cables and starter cables.

None of that fixed it.

Finally upgraded to a new model starter, the smaller high torque one, pmgr type.

Problem solved. Still not sure exactly why but thatís what fixed it.

PGMR has solenoid on the starter and runs the current differently.

If I had it to do again I would haves just started there (ha, ha) since itís a big upgrade anyway. Write up on the site on how.

Good luck.


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02-18-2019 12:55 AM
El Kabong
Quote:
Originally Posted by end user View Post
Yah had the wrong ones jumped. So figured out which is what and top switch is reverse and bottom nss. Just put the truck in reverse and watched which wires turned off the reverse lights. Now I jumped the proper ones and no go on engine start. So would I be looking at the relay on the fender or the fuse for the relay?
Since the relay on the fender (solenoid in the circle I grew up in) worked when the wrong wires were connected, it sounds like the problem is somewhere else.

Does an 88 have a 3 post solenoid? I think so. If so disconnect the little wire to the solenoid, & have a helper turn the key to start while you check for voltage on the little wire. Try it in both park & neutral, & then with the nss bypassed.

If you don't get power to the little solenoid wire under any of those methods, then check for power to the nss with the key turned to start. No power there? Then it might be a bad or misadjusted ignition switch. Or an ignition actuator that is starting to fail & not move the switch fully to the start position. Do some of that testing & let us know what you find.
02-17-2019 11:40 PM
end user
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Kabong View Post
x2. Loose bolts can allow the starter to rock & stay engaged.

It doesn't sound like a stuck solenoid if it stops when you turn off the key.

When you bypassed the NSS were there 2 wires or 4? A lot of times there are 4. 2 for the NSS, 2 for the back up switch. If you accidentally connected 1/2 the NSS pair to half of the back up light circuit the starter would continue to run.
Yah had the wrong ones jumped. So figured out which is what and top switch is reverse and bottom nss. Just put the truck in reverse and watched which wires turned off the reverse lights. Now I jumped the proper ones and no go on engine start. So would I be looking at the relay on the fender or the fuse for the relay?
02-17-2019 09:42 PM
El Kabong
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrencher61 View Post
Check the bolts on the starter. If it has come loose that could have caused it to jam.
x2. Loose bolts can allow the starter to rock & stay engaged.

It doesn't sound like a stuck solenoid if it stops when you turn off the key.

When you bypassed the NSS were there 2 wires or 4? A lot of times there are 4. 2 for the NSS, 2 for the back up switch. If you accidentally connected 1/2 the NSS pair to half of the back up light circuit the starter would continue to run.
02-17-2019 08:32 PM
Wrencher61 Check the bolts on the starter. If it has come loose that could have caused it to jam.
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